twining vines

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I’ve mentioned here and on instagram that I have some patterns in the works to release and that’s true, but surprise surprise it’s taking longer than expected. But to prove – to myself, mostly, I’m sure – that I can do it, that I can release patterns, here’s one.  It’s a bit of a cheat as it’s just a stitch from knittingfool with a garter selvedge.  However, it’s a good practice for me to write instructions clearly for others.

Sick days in summer are the worst, and when I find myself stranded on the couch with five boxes of tissues and silly dramas autoplaying on Netflix, all I can think of is how excited I am for autumn. Impatience and frustration got me stashbusting, and here’s the result!

Stitch on knittingfool.com

Twining Vines Cowl

  • 1 skein Debbie Bliss Paloma or approximately 104 yards any super bulky yarn
  • Gauge is not particularly important here but to avoid a cowl that won’t fit over your head, you’ll need a gauge of about three stitches per inch.  I used 9mm/US 13 needles, and I’m a loose knitter.
  • Final measurements unstretched approx. 7″x10″.  The cowl is knitted in a rectangle and the edges seamed together at the end.  The garter selvedge runs along the opening.

Cast on 30 stitches.  Knit one foundation row.

Row 1 (WS): k7, p5, k4, p3, k11

Row 2 (RS): k2, p7, p2-tog, kfb, k2, p4, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p5, k2

Row 3: k7, p7, k4, p2, k1, p1, k10

Row 4: k2, p6, p2-tog, k1, pfb, k2, p4, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p5, k2

Row 5: k7, p9, k4, p2, k2, p1, k9

Row 6: k2, p5, p2-tog, k1, pfb, p1, k2, p4, ssk, k5, k2-tog, p5, k2

Row 7: k7, p7, k4, p2, k3, p1, k8

Row 8: k2, p4, p2-tog, k1, pfb, p2, k2, p4, ssk, k3, k2-tog, p5, k2

Row 9: k7, p5, k4, p2, k4, p1, k7

Row 10: k2, p5, yo, k1, yo, p4, k2, p4, ssk, k1, k2-tog, p5, k2

Row 11: k7, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k7

Row 12: k2, p5, (k1, yo) twice, k1, p4, k1, M1, k1, p2-tog, p2, sl 2 knitwise-k1-p2sso, p5, k2

Row 13: k11, p3, k4, p5, k7

Row 14: k2, p5, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p4, k1, kfb, k1, p2-tog, p7, k2

Row 15: k10, p1, k1, p2, k4, p7, k7

Row 16: k2, p5, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p4, k2, pfb, k1, p2-tog, p6, k2

Row 17: k9, p1, k2, p2, k4, p9, k7

Row 18: k2, p5, ssk, k5, k2-tog, p4, k2, p1, pfb, k1, p2-tog, p5, k2

Row 19: k8, p1, k3, p2, k4, p7, k7

Row 20: k2, p5, ssk, k3, k2-tog, p4, k2, p2, pfb, k1, p2-tog, p4, k2

Row 21: k7, p1, k4, p2, k4, p5, k7

Row 22: k2, p5, ssk, k1, k2-tog, p4, k2, p4, yo, k1, yo, p5, k2

Row 23: k7, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k7

Row 24: k2, p5, sl 2 knitwise-k1-p2sso, p2, p2-tog, k1, M1, k1, p4, (k1, yo) twice, k1, p5, k2

Repeat rows 1-24 until you have approximately two rows’ worth of yarn left.  Cast off knitwise and sew together with the tail.

I almost made it to two repeats with this yarn – I worked rows 1-24 and then 1-18 and cast off on the wrong side.

The odd rows are wrong side rows and you are just working the stitches as they appear (knit the knits, purl the purls), but I found that especially after increases it wasn’t always obvious whether some stitches were knit or purl, so I included instructions.

Glossary

pfb – purl into front and back of next stitch (one stitch increased)
kfb – knit into front and back of next stitch (one stitch increased)
M1 – make 1: lift running thread (inserting left needle from front to back) between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle, and knit into the back of this thread.
p2sso – pass 2 slipped stitches over the stitch just worked

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