A knee-length open front multicolor cardigan/poncho/cover-up thing, Paragould is worked flat in one piece and ~technically~ seamless. Usually I avoid colorwork because it’s not very portable and I hate weaving in all the ends. However, I find this pattern to be worth the effort. In fact, despite its appearance, there really aren’t THAT many ends to weave in, especially if you cheat and weave them in three or four at time like me. ^-^

Unlike most of my patterns, this one is not worked top-down, but rather, it is cast on at the lower edge of the back, worked up towards the shoulders where it is split in two, then the front pieces are worked separately down towards the bottom edge. This creates a flat piece, which is folded at the shoulders. As I mentioned, it is technically seamless. Stitches are picked up along the outer edges. Then the middle stitches (around the armhole) are bound off and a 3-needle bind off is used to join the front and back pieces. I always tend to bind off way too tightly, so I use a modified stretchy bind off to create just a little elasticity. Instructions for this method are included in the pattern.

The waves are created using a basic feather & fan stitch, worked every 4th row. Because it’s knitted in reverse stockinette stitch, the reverse side is actually the right side. I kept confusing myself when I was writing the pattern so the sides are referred to as either knit sides (the wrong side) or purl sides (the right side).  I slipped the first and knitted the last stitch of every row. For simplicity, this instruction is not included in the pattern, and I know that not all knitters like slipping their edge stitches. Note that the first and last few stitches are always kept in garter stitch. The markers are placed to indicate such.

You will need about 840 yards for your main color, and at least 400 yards for each contrast color. Below you can see a photo of the colors I used for the sweater. You can’t totally tell from this pic, but colors B and C (the contrast colors) can both be found in color A (the main color). To get the kind of blendy, faux-marled look in your sweater, I recommend choosing a multi-colored yarn for your main color and two solids that match it for your contrast colors.

Color A: Dream in Color Jilly, Dune

Color B: Dream in Color Jilly, Black Pearl

Color C: Hedgehog Fibres Skinny Singles, Crystal

A note on size:

The back of the piece measures about 35” wide, and there is about a 3” gap at the neck on the front side. This pattern is designed to be work with generous positive ease, and could fit anywhere from a 32” to 46” bust size, depending on how much ease you want. If you’d like to make the pattern larger, just cast on an extra 48 stitches and work two extra lace repeats into the pattern (remember this will increase yarn requirements). I recommend casting off for the neck in the same way, and instead work four lace repeats on each front, rather than three. You will probably also want to make a larger armhole. Do this by casting off less of those picked up stitches using the 3-needle bind off and casting off more stitches in the middle of the row.

A note on color changes:

As you can see from the charts, colors are switched every 2 rows, and every 20 rows the contrast colors alternate. Color A is run continuously throughout the piece. You won’t ever cut color A until after binding off. Knowing there’s more than one way to skin a cat and that everyone has their own preference, I didn’t include instructions how to change colors or switch between colors in the pattern. BUT if you like slipped stitch edges and want simple color transitions, here’s how I switched between yarns:

When adding a new strand of contrast color

With color A work the purl side row (always an even numbered row) all the way to the very last stitch.** Because you just knitted a stitch for the garter border, your yarn will be in the back. Leave it there and let it hang out on the knit side. Using your new color (B or C), knit that last stitch, leaving an 8” tail to hang out on the knit side. Turn your work. Slip that stitch purlwise, put the yarn in back, and work the rest of the row as indicated in the pattern.

**Keep in mind that the edge stitches are worked in garter stitch and are knitted on the purl rows.

When switching between main color and contrast color

This is worked very similarly to how you add a new strand of contrast color.

Work the purl row (always an even numbered row) all the way to the very last stitch. Because you just knitted a stitch for the garter border, your yarn will be in the back. Leave it there and let it hang out on that knit side. Pick up the strand of yarn you are switching to (it should be hanging out on the knit side) and knit the last stitch. Turn your work. Slip that stitch purlwise, put the yarn in back, and work the rest of the row as indicated in the pattern.

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MATERIALS

4 skeins (≥ 100g each) fingering weight, single ply merino yarn

Color A = 2 skeins

Color B = 1 skein

Color C = 1 skein

US 7, 40” circular needle

US 7, 24” circular needle (optional)

Stitch markers

Tapestry needle

Spare needle for 3-needle bind off

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GAUGE

1 pattern repeat (24 stitches + 40 rows)= 5” wide + 7” long

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STITCH PATTERN

Multiple of 4 rows and 24 stitches +1

Worked over reverse stockinette stitch (purl side is right side). Rows 1 & 2 are always worked with color A. Rows 3 & 4 are worked with a contrast color.

Row 1 (knit side): Knit all stitches

Row 2: purl all stitches

Row 3: knit 1, k2tog 3 times, knit 3, (yarn over, knit 1) 5 times, yarn over, knit 3, SSK 3 times.

Row 4: purl all stitches

Chart A refers to the repeats used at the beginning and ends of the pattern when stockinette stitch is used. Chart B refers to the repeats at the shoulders when garter stitch is used.

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PATTERN

Back

Using color A, cast on 173 stitches.

Row 0: knit all stitches.

Refer to Chart A for these repeats. 

Row 1 (knit side): knit all stitches

Row 2 (purl side): Knit 2, place marker, purl until 2 stitches remain, place marker, knit 2.

Then work rows 3 through 22 as follows:

Row 3: Switch to color B, but don’t cut color A—let it hang out on the knit side. With color B, knit 2, slip marker, work lace pattern 7 times (168 stitches), knit 1, slip marker, knit 2.

**see color change note in the introduction**

Row 4: With color B, knit 2, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 5: With color A (don’t cut color B), knit all stitches.

Row 7: With color A, knit 2, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times (there should be 5 stripes of color B). Cut color B, but leave color A attached. Then work rows 23-42 as follows:

Row 23: Switch to color C (don’t cut color A), knit 2, slip marker, work lace pattern 7 times (168 stitches), knit 1, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 24: With color C, knit 2, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 25: Switch to color A (don’t cut color B), and knit all stitches.

Row 26: With color A, knit 2, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times (there should be 5 stripes of color C). Cut color C, but leave color A attached.

Repeat rows 3-42, 3 more times. You’ll now work in garter stitch with lace as follows:

Refer to Chart B for these repeats. 

Row 163: work same as row 3

Row 164: with color B, knit all stitches.

Row 165: work same as row 5

Row 166: with color A, knit all stitches

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times (there should be 5 stripes of color B). Cut color B, but leave color A attached. Then work as follows:

Row 183: work same as row 23

Row 184: with color C, knit all stitches.

Row 185: work same as row 25

Row 186: with color A, knit all stitches

Repeat these 4 rows, 1 more time. Then work as follows to divide your work in half and begin working the fronts:

Row 191: with color C, knit 2, slip marker, work lace across next 3 lace repeats (72 stitches), knit across next 24 stitches, work lace across last 3 lace repeats (72 stitches), knit 1, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 192: with color C, knit 2, slip marker, knit 77, bind off 15 stitches, knit to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

You have now split the piece in two, creating the front panels. You will now work the left front (79 stitches), leaving the 79 stitches for the right front on hold to be worked later.

Left Front

Still referring to Chart B for these repeats. 

Row 193: with color A, knit 2, slip marker, knit 72 stitches, place marker, knit to end (5 stitches).

Row 194: with color A, knit all stitches.

Row 195: with color C, knit 2, slip marker, work 3 repeats of lace pattern (72 stitches), slip marker, knit to end.

Row 196: with color C, knit all stitches.

Repeat these 4 rows 1 more time. Then work rows 201 through 220 as follows

Row 201: with color A, knit all stitches.

Row 202: with color A, knit all stitches.

Row 203: with color B, knit 2, slip marker, work 3 repeats of lace pattern (72 stitches), slip marker, knit to end.

Row 204: with color B, knit all stitches.

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times. Then work rows 221 through 240 as follows:

Refer to Chart A for these repeats. 

Row 221: with color A, knit all stitches.

Row 222: with color A, knit 2 stitches, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 223: with color C, knit 2, slip marker, work 3 repeats of lace pattern (72 stitches), slip marker, knit to end.

Row 224: with color C, knit 2 stitches, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times. Then work rows 241 through 260 as follows:

Row 241: with color A, knit all stitches.

Row 242: with color A, knit 2 stitches, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Row 243: with color B, knit 2, slip marker, work 3 repeats of lace pattern (72 stitches), slip marker, knit to end.

Row 244: with color B, knit 2 stitches, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 2.

Repeat these 4 rows, 4 more times.

Repeat rows 221 to 260, 3 more times. To end, repeat rows 201 and 201. Bind off all stitches using a modified stretchy bind off as follows:

*Bind off 2 stitches as usual. To bind off the third stitch, knit 1. You have 2 stitches on your right-hand needle. Yarn over. Pull those 2 stitches over the yarn over.*

Repeat from * to * until there is 1 stitch remaining. Bind it off and finish normally.

Right Front

With knit side facing, rejoin color C to work. Work this side the same as the left front, but instead keep the 2 stitches at the armhole edge and the 5 stitches at the neck edge in garter stitch. This means that on the first row after rejoining the yarn (row 193), you will knit 5, place marker, pattern until 2 stitches remain, slip maker, knit 2. Work the same as the left front to the end.

Edging and Finishing

You now have a rectangle with a slit going halfway down the middle. To join the pieces and create the armhole edge, you will need to pick up stitches from each side. If you prefer, you may want to block your piece now while the pieces is flat and before joining the sides.

With the purl side facing you, starting at bottom right corner of the back and working towards the bottom of the right front, pick up 285 stitches from the armhole edge. (Pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows OR 3 stitches from every 2 slipped stitches if you slipped stitches as outlined in the introduction.) Knit 1 row.

Bind off row: knit 90 stitches. Bind off the 105 stitches in the middle using the modified stretchy bind off you used earlier. Slip the stitch remaining on your right-hand needle over to the left-hand needle. Line up the last 90 stitches of this row with the first 90 stitches of this row, having the knit sides of the fabric facing each other. Using your spare needle, LOOSELY bind off these stitches using the 3-needle bind off method.

To join the right side, pick up 285 stitches, starting at the bottom left corner of the left side and working your way towards the bottom left corner of the back. Repeat the same steps you did for the other side.

Finally, weave in all your ends (the best part, right?), and block it out like crazy. Really stretch that wool to get a nice thin, breathable fabric that you can wear all spring and summer long. If you have any questions or notice any errors in the pattern, please reach out. Also don’t forget to share you work with me on Ravelry or Instagram using #samsweaterz. Happy knits! ❤