This long, breezy cardigan was designed as a swimsuit coverup, but after finishing it, I’ve worn it almost everyday, swimming or not. Though the cotton/linen blend is somewhat heavy, it knits up into a very breathable fabric that doesn’t trap swampy, hot air, yet is great for covering your shoulders in an excessively air conditioned indoor space. Because of the chainette structure of the yarn, it doesn’t split while your knitting, and it avoids shedding, which can sometimes be a problem with linen yarns.

The garment is worked top-down, with an open front, and virtually no shaping. It’s basically just a giant rectangle. The actual sweater is about 36” wide and 35” long. Designed to be worn with significant positive ease, it can fit a range of bust sizes (pictured here with about 31” of ease). If you want to make it just a tad larger (or smaller), I’d recommend knitting at a slightly looser (or tighter) gauge than the one recommended. Alternately, you could cast on an additional 26 stitches onto the back, working an extra lace repeat here, and pick up an extra 13 stitches on each front, adding these to the panel of stockinette on the front.

This sweater features simple pockets that you will begin while you’re knitting the piece and finish after you complete the body of the sweater. Note that the pockets are the only portion of the sweater that require seams, so if you really hate seaming, just ignore the pocket instructions. 🙂

If you would like to purchase a printable PDF of this pattern, you can snag one from my Ravelry store. 

MATERIALS

Knit Picks, Lindy Chain, 8 skeins

US 5 circular needle (Though you only need one pair, I recommend having both 24” [for the front pieces] and 40” [for the back and body] length needles)

12 stitch markers

Several pieces of scrap yarn or stitch holders

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

4”= 20 stitches and 29 rows in stockinette stitch on US 5 needles

STITCH PATTERN

The same chevron stitch pattern is used throughout the pattern. However, it’s been split into 3 different charts for simplicity. Chart A is used only after casting on or picking up stitches at the shoulders. Chart B is used throughout the main body of the pattern. Chart C is used only at the end just before you cast off.

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PATTERN

Back

Cast on 165 stitches using long tail cast on method (this counts as the first row). Knit 3 rows.

Row 5 (right side): knit 4, place marker, work across Chart A 6 times (156 stitches), knit 1, place marker, knit 4

Row 6: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Row 7: knit 4, slip marker, work across Chart A 6 times, knit 1, slip marker, knit 4

Row 8: as row 6

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until until Chart A has been worked one time vertically. Then begin working from Chart B in the same manner and work until piece measures 8”. Make a note of which row of the chart you’ve just completed. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later, keeping markers in place.

Right Front

With right side of back facing and beginning at wearer’s right shoulder, pick up 83 stitches (this counts as the first row). Knit 3 rows.

Row 5 (right side): knit 4, place marker, work across Chart A 1 time (26 stitches), knit 1, place marker, knit until 4 stitches remain, place marker, knit 4

Row 6: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Row 7: knit 4, slip marker, work across Chart A 1 time, knit 1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Row 8: as row 6

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until until Chart A has been worked one time vertically. Then begin working from Chart B in the same manner and work until piece measures 8”, ending on the same chart row as the back. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later, keeping markers in place.

Left Front

With right side of back facing, and beginning at neck edge of wearer’s left shoulder, pick up 83 stitches (this counts as the first row). Knit 3 rows.

Row 5 (right side): knit 4, place marker, knit until there are 31 stitches remaining, place marker, work across Chart A 1 time (26 stitches), knit 1, place marker,  knit 4

Row 6: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Row 7: knit 4, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, work across Chart A 1 time, knit 1, slip marker,  knit 4

Row 8: as row 6

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until until Chart A has been worked one time vertically. Then begin working from Chart B in the same manner and work until piece measures 8”,  ending on the same chart row as the back and right front. Do not break yarn. You will now work across all three pieces to join them together.

Body

Row 1 (right side): With the right side facing you, work in pattern across the left front. Then with right side of back facing you, work in pattern across all back stitches. With right side of right front facing you, work in pattern across all stitches. You should have 331 stitches.

Row 2: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4.

Continue working like this. You will keep the first and last 4 stitches in garter stitch. The 8 stitches at each underarm will also remain in garter stitch. The lace will be maintained across the back and on the armhole sides of the fronts. Work in pattern as set until piece measures 25”.  You will now form the pockets!

Pockets

Row 1: knit 4, slip marker, knit 8, knit 2 together, place marker. Place next 24 stitches on hold to be worked later. Cast on 24 stitches over those stitches on hold (this will make a little hole in your work). Place marker, SSK, knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker,  knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 6 times, knit 1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker, knit 12, knit 2 together, place marker. Place next 24 stitches on hold to be worked later. Cast on 24 stitches over those stitches on hold (this will make a little hole in your work). Place marker, SSK, knit to marker, slip marker, knit 4.  You should have 327 stitches.

Row 2: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to maker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4.

Row 3: knit 4, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches before next marker, make 1, knit 2, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker,  knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 6 times, knit 1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 2, make 1, knit until there are 2 stitches before next marker, make 1, knit 2, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 4.  You should have 331 stitches.

Row 4: as row 2

Row 5: knit 4, slip marker, knit to marker, remove marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker,  knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 6 times, knit 1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, knit to next marker, remove marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit 4.

Row 6:  knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4.

Now continue working in pattern as set, keeping only the first and last 4 stitches and the 8 stitches at each underarm in garter stitch. Work like this until piece measures __. You will now split the piece in 3 to work the side vents.

Left Front

Row 1: knit 4, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker,  knit 4. Turn the work. Place the stitches from the back and right front on hold to be worked later. You should have 83 stitches from the left front that you will work with.

Row 2: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until side vent measures about 8” ending with the last row of Chart B. Then continue working in the same manner, using Chart C. Once chart C has been worked one time vertically, knit 5 rows. Cast off all left front stitches.

Back

With right side of back facing, rejoin yarn and work as follows:

Row 1: knit 4, slip marker, work across Chart B 6 times, knit 1, slip marker, knit 4. Turn the work. Place the stitches from the back and right front on hold to be worked later. You should have 165 stitches from the back that you will work with.

Row 2: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until side vent measures about 8”, ending with the last row of Chart B. Then continue working in the same manner, using Chart C. Once chart C has been worked one time vertically, knit 5 rows. Cast off all back stitches.

Right Front

With right side of right front facing, rejoin yarn and work as follows:

Row 1: knit 4, slip marker, work across Chart B 1 time, knit 1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Row 2: knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until side vent measures about 8”, ending with the last row of Chart B. Then continue working in the same manner, using Chart C. Once chart C has been worked one time vertically, knit 5 rows. Cast off all right front stitches.

Finish Pockets

To finish a pocket, with the right side facing place the 24 stitches you have on hold back onto a needle and rejoin the yarn.

Row 1: knit across all stitches.

Row 2: purl across all stitches

Row 3: knit 2, make 1, knit until 2 stitches remain, make 1, knit 2

Row 4: as row 2.

Repeat rows 3 and 4, 19 more times. Bind off all stitches. Tuck the square behind the left/right front piece. Carefully sew it onto the wrong side. Repeat these steps to make the other pocket. Here’s a video that might be helpful. Skip to 5:19 to see how they sew the pocket on.

Finish

Weave in all your ends and block well. I used a warm, steamy iron (set on “Wool”) and pressed directly onto the knitting. If you use this method, be sure to use lots of steam and be careful not to burn the yarn. Take pics and share your work with me on Ravelry and Instagram using #samsweaterz. Also, please holler if you have any questions or notice any errors in the pattern. Happy knitting!