Playful Breeze Tee

knittingpatterns

Jul 12

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It’s been a weird summer here this year. I don’t think we’ve gotten above 83ºF/28ºC so that’s been nice! Weird. But, nice.This is a the first year we’ve actually had central air conditioning in our house, and it’s looking like we might not even need it this year! Wait, I know, I know, I shouldn’t have said anything! Now I’ve done it :)

But, anyway, another great thing for this month is IT’S MY BIRTHDAY MONTH! Yup! How exciting! We don’t have anything planned for it, though. I’m just gonna take it easy and enjoy making slowly this month. As my present to myself, I’ve moved all my July deadlines into August! Taking all the stress out of the month. That’s all that’s happening here! How is July treating you?

ABOUT THIS Design:

So about this cute knit top! This is the Playful Breeze Tee. It is a gorgeous drop shoulder t-shirt made with a light weight yarn to create a gorgeously draping tee. This fabric is perfect for the warmer months, as it’s airy and breathes well!

The lace on this top is made with both the Left and Right leaning Turkish Rib stitch. This stitch creates a lovely open weave lattice like lace. It gives the tee such a great geometric look!

Knit almost completely in the round, and only knit flat to separate the front and back sections for the sleeve openings, this top is created with almost no seams. So, if you aren’t a huge fan of seams, this tee is definitely for you! The only seams on the entire garment are at the shoulders. And, this section is a garter stitch, which is one of the easiest types of stitches to seam with the mattress stitch!

The yarn used for the my Playful Breeze Tee is a Light DK weight 3 yarn. You can also use a Sport weight 2 yarn with the larger needles to make a much lighter, more airy tee. But, make sure you do a gauge swatch to check that the yarn you choose meets gauge before you start!

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Wiwik, Sandra, Robyn, Shannon, Laura, and Ann

Wiwik - Qiuknit Stonewash DK - M - 12” of positive ease

Sandra - King Cole Melody double knitting - 2XL - 16" positive ease

Robyn - Lion Brand Truboo - 3XL - 10" positve ease

Shannon

Laura - Bare DK donegal yarn - S - 11" positive ease

Wiwik - Qiuknit Stonewash DK - M - 12” of positive ease

Sandra - King Cole Melody double knitting - 2XL - 16" positive ease

Robyn - Lion Brand Truboo - 3XL - 10" positve ease

Laura - Bare DK donegal yarn - S - 11" positive ease

Wiwik - Qiuknit Stonewash DK - M - 12” of positive ease

Sandra - King Cole Melody double knitting - 2XL - 16" positive ease

Robyn - Lion Brand Truboo - 3XL - 10" positve ease

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #playfulbreezetee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 4mm or size needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: DK Weight 3 yarn. Approx 800(920, 1000, 1250, 1300, 1450, 1550) yards

Gauge: 20 st/39 rows = 4” in garter, 20 st/26 rows = 4” in Right Slanting Turkish RIb

Other: stitch markers, scissors, waste yarn or stitch holders

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout. Check out the chart on pg. 4 for measurements in cm.

S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”, 4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 13” of positive ease. S: bust - 45“ x Length - 21.5“, M: bust - 49“ x Length - 21.5“, L: bust - 53“ x Length - 22.5“, XL: bust - 57“ x Length - 23“, 2XL: bust - 61“ x Length - 23.5“, 3XL: bust - 65“ x Length - 24“, 4XL: bust - 69“ x Length - 25“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 35” bust, 28” waist, 39” hips wearing size small, with 10” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the long tail CO.
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
St/sts: stitch/stitches
Rep: repeat
Cont: continue
K: knit
P: purl
YO: yarn over
Ssk: slip, slip, knit. It is a left leaning decrease on the RS. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.
K2tog: knit two together
BO: bind off. Make sure you bind off loosely so that the ribbing on the sleeves and neckline have a good stretch.

Notes:

Pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

Top is knit bottom up, in the round until you separate the front and back for the sleeves. Then, the front and back are knit flat independently. The shoulders are seamed and the sleeves are knit directly onto the body in the round.
Gauge: Because the Turkish Rib portion of the top is knit in the round, it would be good for you to do that gauge swatch in the round as well. Cast on at least 42 sts and join to knit in the round. Then, follow the directions on pg. 5 for Rounds 1-26 of the Right Slanting Turkish Rib. That should give you an accurate swatch to block and measure for the top.
Blocking: This top requires blocking, as the garter st can scrunch up tight, though it is quite stretchy. Blocking will stretch the top garter section out to the correct measurements. If you do not block, the top section will most likely be too short for the sleeve openings.
Length: If you would like a longer top, continue knitting in pattern until you reach the length you desire. Then start the separation for the sleeve openings.
Sleeves: If you would like a larger sleeve opening, add rows to this section. Make sure you add the same amount of rows to the front as you do on the back. Add the rows at the beginning of the front section before following any other directions for that section. (remember, blocking will stretch that section, so don’t add too many rows!).
Neckline Decreases: I made my neckline decreases 3 stitches in from the edge, because I don’t like them right on the edge. On the left side, I ssk on both the RS and WS (making a left leaning decrease), and I k2tog on both the RS and WS on the right side of the neckline (making right leaning decreases).

THE PATTERN:

Bottom Band:

w/ 4mm needles CO 225(245, 265, 285, 305, 325, 345) sts connect to knit in the round
Round 1: place a sm. *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around to sm.
Round 2: *k3, p2* rep * * around
Round 3 - Round 13: rep Rounds 1 - 2
Round 14: *k3, p2* rep * * around until the last st, k1fb. You will now have 226(246, 266, 286, 306, 326, 346) sts
Round 15: k all sts

Body:

Right Slanting Turkish Rib [26(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25) rounds total]:
Round 1 - Round 26(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25): *yo, k2tog*, rep * * around

Garter Stitch [7 rounds total]:
Round 27(25, 25, 25, 26, 26, 26): k all sts
Round 28(26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 27): p all sts
Round 29(27, 27, 27, 28, 28, 28) - Round 32(30, 30, 30, 31, 31, 31): rep Rounds 1 - 2 of garter stitch
Round 33(31, 31, 31, 32, 32, 32): k all sts

Left Slanting Turkish Rib [25(24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) rounds total]:
Round 34(32, 32, 32, 33, 33, 33) - Round 58(55, 55, 55, 56, 56, 56): *ssk, yo*, rep * * around

Garter Stitch [7 rounds total]:
Round 59(56, 56, 56, 57, 57, 57): k all sts
Round 60(57, 57, 57, 58, 58, 58): p all sts
Round 61(58, 58, 58, 59, 59, 59) - Round 64(61, 61, 61, 62, 62, 62): rep Rounds 1 - 2 of garter stitch
Round 65(62, 62, 62, 63, 63, 63): k all sts

Right Slanting Turkish Rib #2: [25(24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25) rounds total]:
Round 66(63, 63, 63, 64, 64, 64) - Round 90(86, 86, 86, 88, 88, 88): *yo, k2tog*, rep * * around

Separating the Front and Back:

Now we will stop working in the round and instead work back and forth in rows to separate the back and front for the sleeve openings. If you would like a larger sleeve opening, add rows to the beginning of these sections. We will also be BO some stitches and making decreases on the front to create the neckline. See Notes for Sleeves and Neckline on pg. 3

Small:

Back:

Row 91: k 113 sts, slip the next 113 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 92 - Row 149: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 91 (RS) - Row 102: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 103 (RS): k49, BO 15, k49 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 104: k49

Row 105 - Row 149: Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

Right Side:

Row 104(WS): with the WS facing you, reattach yarn and k49

Row 105 - Row 149: Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

Medium:

Back:

Row 87: k 123 sts, slip the next 123 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 149: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 102: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 103 (RS): k54, BO 15, k54 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 104: k54

Row 105 - Row 149: Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

Right Side:

Row 104(WS): with the WS facing you, reattach yarn and k54

Row 105 - Row 149: Starting with a dec on Row 105, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

Large:

Back:

Row 87: k 133 sts, slip the next 133 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 155: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 108: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 109 (RS): k59, BO 15, k59 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 110: k59

Row 111 - Row 155: Starting with a dec on Row 111, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times.

Right Side:

Row 110 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k59

Row 111 - Row 155: Starting with a dec on Row 111, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 15 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

XL:

Back:

Row 87: k 143 sts, slip the next 143 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 88 - Row 159: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 87 (RS) - Row 110: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 111 (RS): k63, BO 17, k63 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 112: k63

Row 113 - Row 151: Starting with a dec on Row 113, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 152 - Row 159: Starting the next dec on Row 152, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times.

Right Side:

Row 112 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k63

Row 113 - Row 151: Starting with a dec on Row 113, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 152 - Row 159: Starting the next dec on Row 152, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

2XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 153 sts, slip the next 153 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 167: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 118: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 119 (RS): k68, BO 17, k68 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 120: k68

Row 121 - Row 159: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 160 - Row 167: Starting the next dec on Row 160, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times.

Right Side:

Row 120 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k68

Row 121 - Row 159: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 13 times.

Row 160 - Row 167: Starting the next dec on Row 160, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 2 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

3XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 163 sts, slip the next 163 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 171: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 118: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 119 (RS): k72, BO 19, k 72 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 120: k72

Row 121 - Row 147: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 9 times.

Row 148 - Row 171: Starting the next dec on Row 148, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 Rows 6 times.

Right Side:

Row 120 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k72

Row 121 - Row 147: Starting with a dec on Row 121, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 9 times.

Row 148 - Row 171: Starting the next dec on Row 131, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 Rows 6 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

4XL:

Back:

Row 89: k 173 sts, slip the next 173 sts onto waste yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 90 - Row 177: k all sts.

Front:

Put the stitches from the waste yarn back on your needles.

Row 89 (RS) - Row 120: with the RS facing you, reattach the yarn and k all sts

Left Side:

Row 121 (RS): k77, BO 19, k77 (leave the sts from the right side of the neckline on needles to be worked after the left side is finished)

Row 122: k77

Row 123 - Row 137: Starting with a dec on Row 123, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 5 times.

Row 138 - Row 177: Starting the next dec on Row 138, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 10 times.

Right Side:

Row 122 (WS): with the WS facing you, reattach the yarn and k77

Row 123 - Row 137: Starting with a dec on Row 123, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 3 rows 5 times.

Row 138 - Row 177: Starting the next dec on Row 138, dec 1 st at the neckline (center of the top) every 4 rows 10 times. Then, knit straight.

Go to Blocking

Blocking All Sizes:

Block the top to the measurements in the schematic. Seam the shoulders with the mattress stitch.

Sleeves:

Round 1: Starting at the bottom of the sleeve in the armpit area, reattach yarn and pick up and knit 60(65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90) sts.

Round 2: place a sm. *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

Round 3: *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around

Round 4 - Round 7: rep Rounds 2 - 3

BO in pattern.

Rep for other sleeve.

Collar:

Round 1: Starting at the back of the neckline, reattach yarn and pick up and knit stitches in a multiple of 5 sts around the collar.

Round 2: place a sm. *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

Round 3: *k1, p1, k1, p2* rep * * around

Round 4: *k3, p2* rep * * around to sm.

BO knitwise.

Block garment to measurements again if you’d like I blocked mine twice just to make sure the collar and sleeves sit well.

Happy Creating!

IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #playfulbreezetee

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!