Lil' Bean Pilot

The Midi Bean pictured here is "inside out." Since less than one skein was needed, there were few ends to weave in, thus it can be worn either way.

Here's the Midi Bean. (Ravelry link) - I have been knitting these for over two years now - inspired by the Sweet Baby Cap & some other pilot-style patterns. I just recently arrived at the "perfect" fit (at least for now). There are no seams. I find seams on baby items a nuisance to be quite frank & I imagine them as uncomfy for the lil' one. Increases (as compared to a pattern previously posted) provide a nice fit & enough room to cover ears. The placement of decreases towards the top creates a rounded look. Most of all, baby's head stays warm. (The Importance of Warmth by Susan Johnson, M.D.)

Mini Bean (with a 103 stitches cast-on & a 15-20-9/5 count) & Mighty Bean (with a 139 stitches cast on & 21-28-13/7 count) are in the works. I'm test-knitting. The nice thing is that the combination of three sizes with a variety of yarn weights & needle sizes will give you the opportunity to create Lil' Beans in eight sizes - from toasty for snow weather to light and airy for summertime. It's also easy to knit up a doll version if you need that whole look.

YARN, NEEDLES & GAUGE

Koigu KPPM, a fingering weight yarn, on size US 2 (2.75mm) needles gave me a size NEWBORN with a gauge of 8 sts./inch.

Frog Tree Pima Cotton/Silk, a sports weight yarn, on size US 5 (3.5mm) needles gave me a size 3/6-9 MONTHS with a gauge of 6sts./inch.

Malabrigo Silky Merino, a worsted weight yarn, on size US 7 (4.5mm) needles gave me a size 9-12/12-18 MONTHS with a gauge of 5 sts./inch.

Yarns & needles "in between" will create "in between sizes."

STITCH GUIDE

k = Knit; p = Purl

sk2p = Slip one stitch knit-wise, knit two stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the stitches you just knit together. (2 stitches decreased)

m1(fb) = Insert left needle, from front to back, under the strand between last stitch worked and next stitch on left needle, forming a loop. Knit through the back of that stitch. (1 stitch made)

m1(bf) = Insert left needle, from back to front, under the strand between last stitch worked and next stitch on left needle, forming a loop. Knit through the front of this loop. (1 stitch made)

kfb = Knit stitch, but don't slide stitch off the left-needle. Now knit into the back of the old stitch. Now you have two stitches on the right needle. Slide stitch off the left needle. (1 stitch made)

THE PATTERN

Cast on 121 stitches. Divide them evenly onto 4 DPs & join to the round, taking care not to twist. (30-30-30-31)

Round 1: Purl

Round 2: Knit

Rounds 3 & 4: Purl

Round 5: Knit

Round 6: k1, m1(bf), k18, sk2p, k24, kfb, kfb, k11, sk2p, k11, kfb, kfb, k24, sk2p, k18, m1(fb), k1

Round 7: Knit

Repeat rounds 6 & 7 six more times. - A total of 19 rounds worked. Note: Since decreases and increases per round are the same, your stitches through round 19 always remain the same - 121 stitches at the end of each round!

Round 20: k1, m1(bf), k18, sk2p, k37, sk2p, k37, sk2p, k18, m1(fb), k1 (117 stitches remain)

Round 21 & all odd rounds 'til end: Knit

At this stage your work will look something like this.
Note how increases & decreases are lining up neatly.

Round 22: k1, m1(bf), k18, sk2p, k35, sk2p, k35, sk2p, k18, m1(fb), k1 (113 stitches remain)

Tip: At this point, or as soon as the number of stitches allows from now on, it is helpful for ease of knitting to rearrange the stitches onto 3 DPs, with the sk2p decreases towards the middle of each needle. It makes it much easier to work the decreases.

Round 24: k19, sk2p, k33, sk2p, k33, sk2p, k19 (107)
Round 26: k18, sk2p, k31, sk2p, k31, sk2p, k18 (101)
Round 28: k17, sk2p, k29, sk2p, k29, sk2p, k17 (95)
Round 30: k16, sk2p, k27, sk2p, k27, sk2p, k16 (89)
Round 32: k15, sk2p, k25, sk2p, k25, sk2p, k15 (83)
Round 34: k14, sk2p, k23, sk2p, k23, sk2p, k14 (77)
Round 36: k13, sk2p, k21, sk2p, k21, sk2p, k13 (71)
Round 38: k12, sk2p, k19, sk2p, k19, sk2p, k12 (65)
Round 40: k11, sk2p, k17, sk2p, k17, sk2p, k11 (59)
Round 42: k10, sk2p, k15, sk2p, k15, sk2p, k10 (53)

Round 44: k9, sk2p, k13, sk2p, k13, sk2p, k9 (47)
Round 46: k8, sk2p, k11, sk2p, k11, sk2p, k8 (41)
Round 48: ssk, k5, sk2p, k9, sk2p, k9, sk2p, k5, k2tog (33)
Round 50: k5, sk2p, k7, sk2p, k7, sk2p, k5 (27)
Round 52: ssk, k2, sk2p, k5, sk2p, k5, sk2p, k2, k2tog (19)
Round 54: k2 sk2p, k3, sk2p, k3, sk2p, k2 (13)
Round 56: k1, sk2p, k1, sk2p, k1, sk2p, k1 (7)
Break the yarn, leaving a 6" tail. using a yarn darner, run yarn through remaining stitches. Secure.

FROM TOP DOWN: Front view. Back view. Side view.
(Click on the images to enlarge them if you need a closer look.)

For ties, pick up 3-4 stitches and work an I-cord for app. 8". Weave in all loose ends. Block if desired.