glovtens

Another "spork" for the world of hand warming clothing items. Gloves provide articulation of the fingers to allow us to actually do stuff whole the hands are kept toasty, but mittens are generally warmer when all other things are equal. Capturing a little more articulation than the previous pair, this pair isolates the upper half of two fingers for the operation of cameras or whatever is needed while leaving the rest of the fingers to have friendly finger warmth.

I took quite a lot of measurements to get the size to fit my hand. I am sure there are some general rules that would allow one to do this with a couple, but I don't know them.

A start of the measurements and the basic idea.

Executed exactly as planned.

I will again attempt to communicate how to make these in any size with any gauge, but will also write down exactly what I did in bold for my hand and gauge. I used Patons Classic Wool, a worsted weight yarn that is 100% wool. I knitted on US #6 (4mm) needles. In stockinette, my gauge is 22 stitches and 29 rows for 4 inches square. The completed project fits a hand 8" around and 7" long. It used 2/3 of the skein for two glovtens.

Measure length around hand. (For me, 8 inches.) Use the gauge to calculate how many stitches for this length and cast on the nearest amount divisible by 4. (8"/4"*stitches = 44 stitches. This is divisible by 4 already.) Cast on this number of stitches and continue on k2, p2 ribbing for 2", then knit a row.
Cast on 44 stitches;(k2, p2)x11 for 15 rows;
k44;

Measure from the base of the hand where the thumb splits (a in the illustration above) and calculate a number of rows from this. (2.25"/4"*rows = 16.3 rows, I used 17.)
Measure around thumb and calculate the nearest even number of stitches. (2.5" becomes 14 stitches.)
Knit the number of rows calculated while evenly adding the 4 less than stitches calculated (10 stitches) in pairs next to the original 2nd and 2nd to last stitch. Make the stitch by pulling up the yarn below between the stitches and knitting it twisted.
k1, m1, k42, m1, k1;
k46 for 2 rows;
k2, m1, k42, m1, k2;
k48 for 3 rows;
k3, m1, k42, m1, k3;
k50 for 2 rows;
k4, m1, k42, m1, k4;
k52 for 3 rows;
k5, m1, k42, m1, k5;
k54 for 2 rows;

To start the thumb, knit across 1 less than the number of pairs added and make a stitch, then put all but an equal number of stitches on a holder and make a stitch on the opposite side, then knit to the end.
k6, m1, put 42 stitches on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure the shortest thumb length and knit one row less than this length. (2" is 15 rows.) Close the thumb using repeats of *k2tog, k1* or *k1, k2tog*, whichever is required to not end with a k2tog on a single stitch. Pull the yarn through the final stitches a couple times and weave in.
k14 for 14 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches;

Measure from the base of hand to first joint on first finger (b) and subtract the length already done (a) to find a number of rows. (4.875”-2.25” = 2.625” left. 19 rows.) Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch and around the held stitches, then into the same loop as the second made stitch. Continue around for the rest of the calculated rows.
k the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k42, k the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k44 for 18 rows;

Measure around finger and calculate the number of stitches. This should not be less than the cast on stitches plus 12 all divided by 4. (2.5” is 14 stitches. (44+12)/4=14 also.) Knit one less than half these stitches, make one, place the rest to an equal number of stitches on a holder, make another across from the first and knit to the end to split off the first finger.
k6, m1, put 32 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure from the joint to the end and calculate the number of rows. (1.875” is 14 rows.) Knit one less than this number of rows and then finish the same way as the thumb.
k14 for 13 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
draw yarn through remaining stitches a couple rounds and weave in the end;

Measure to the first joint of the second finger (c) and subtract what has already been done (b) to calculate a number of rows. (5.2”-4.875” is 2.35 rows. 2 or 3, go with 2) Knit on similar to before including the made stitches and knit these rows.
k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k32, and k into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k34;

Measure around the second finger for a number of stitches. This should not be less than for the previous finger. (2.5” is 14 stitches. Same as previous.) Knit 1 less than half these, make one, put the rest on a holder leaving an equal number of stitches on the far side, make another across from the first, and knit to the end.
k6, m1, place 22 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure length from the joint to the end for a number of rows. (2” is 14.5 rows. Use 15.) Knit 1 less than these rows and finish like on the thumb.

k14 for 14 rows;(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches and weave in;

Measure 3rd finger from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (6.5”-5.2” is 9.425 rows.)
Measure pinky from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (5.5”-5.2” is 2.175 rows.) K into the made stitches and the remaining stitches as before. Finish the number or rows to cover the 4th finger. Start decreasing near the center or each round to finish decreasing when long enough for the 3rd finger. (Begin decreases after 2 rows, finish in 9.)

k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k22, then into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k24;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k22;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8; (20 stitches)
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7; (18 stitches)
k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6; (16 stitches)
k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5; (14 stitches)
k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4; (12 stitches)
(k2tog, k1)x4;
draw the yarn through the last stitches;

Once the first is complete, repeat for the second. While hands tend to have differences between left and right, you will probably want to complete these in the same way for the second one to be symmetrical, so it is good practice to write down your steps if you are not following the same exact steps I used.

Variations:

Well, one variation. Fingerless: Stop 4 rows short of the end on the thumb and/or fingers, then bind off in purl. Wrap the last stitch around the first to complete the in-the-round bind off.

near mits: somewhat fingerless mittens

These come from wondering what will really keep my hands warm while also allowing operation of a mildly fancy camera while hiking. For warmest hands, one wants thick mittens. For doing things without taking off the cold protection, one wants thin gloves. These are incompatible. Most times, only the thumb and a finger are really needed. So here come the near mits.

I'm doing this pattern in two ways: conceptual and concrete. The conceptual should be sufficient to fit them to any hand using any yarn or needle, but requires a bit extra to follow. The concrete is what exactly I did to make this work for my hands on the needles I chose with the yarn I chose. Since hands, needles, yarn, and tightness of technique all vary quite a bit, this is unlikely to work for too many variations. But I do have some rather average hands.

Conceptual pattern:

Wrist: First, you will need to have some idea of your gauge. Then decide how far up the arm they should go and measure the circumference there and of the hand at the palm (no thumb). Cast on enough stitches for the arm measurement and join in the round. Knit many rows, decreasing evenly to the correct number of stitches for the hand measurement over the desired length. Usually this knitting will start with some ribbing of some sort.

 Hand start: Measure around the thumb to determine how many stitches will be needed to go around it (a) and measure from the base of the hand to where the thumb slits off to determine how many rows are needed (b). Add a-4 stitches in pairs near the first and last stitch evenly over b rows.

Thumb: Knit (a/2)-1 stitches, make one next to the last stitch. Across from this, make another stitch and knit the (a/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. This is the thumb. Continue knitting around, the last few rows in a k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the thumb, then cast off loosely (or use a stretchy bind off) in pattern. Wrap the last stitch around the first stitch to make a complete circle of bind-off. (For sufficiently small gauge, more stitches may be required for the crossing in which case they can be chained on. Like these two made stitches, the new loops will be knitted in again when starting the rest of the hand and a similar procedure will be needed when slitting off the finger and starting the closed off fingers.)

Finger: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit rows until long enough to cover the first joint. Measure around the finger to determine how many stitches are needed to go around it (c). Knit (c/2)-1 stitches, make one, go to the other side, make another and knit (c/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. Knit around, the last few rows in k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the finger and bind off like the thumb.

Capped fingers: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch for the finger, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit around, decreasing when appropriate, to leave just enough space for the other fingers. Graft the end (kitchener) to finish. Weave in the ends.

Concrete pattern:

Choose either a long wrist or a short wrist, then continue on to the hand portion.

This was done with Stitch Nation Full o' Sheep on #8 (5 mm) cable needle generating an approximate gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows per 2". Uses one ball. Fits hand approximately 8" around and 7" long from wrist to longest finger tip.

k = knit
p = purl
m = make: pull up the yarn between the last worked stitch and the next stitch and knit into this with a twist.
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip a stitch, slip another, then knit them together.

Long wrist:

Cast on 40. Place marker and join in round.
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
k 4 rows;
k 3, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 22, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 14, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 32, k2tog, k 3;
k 1 row;
k2, p2 for 8 rows;
k 1 row;

Short wrist: 

Cast on 36. Place marker and join in the round.

k2, p2; for 14 rows;
k 1 row;

hand:

k1, m1, k 34, m1, k1;
k 2 row;
k2, m1, k 34, m1, k2;
k 2 rows;
k3, m1, k 34, m1, k3;
k 2 rows;
k4, m1, k 34, m1, k4;
k 2 rows;
k5, m1, k 34, m1, k5;
k 1 row;
k6, m1, place 34 on a holder, m1, k6;
k 6 rows;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
Cast off loosely to finish thumb. Loop the last stitch around the first cast off stitch to finish in the round. (This will require a needle.)

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k into the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 18 rows;
k6, m1, hold 24, m1, k6;
k 1 row;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
cast off loosely.

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 1 row;
k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10;
k 1 row;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8;
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7;
(k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

To close the bits:

Since one may not want open fingers on both hands, it is useful to be able to make a full thumb and/or full fingers.

For the thumb:

Stop before the rows of k1, p1 and:
k 6 rows (12 total);
(k2tog, k1)x4, k2tog;
draw cord through the stitches;

For the fingers without splitting one off:

After knitting 18 rows
k 1 row;
k15, k2tog, k2, ssk, k15;
k 1 row;
k14, k2tog, k2, ssk, k14;
k13, k2tog, k2, ssk, k13;
(k1, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1)x2;
(k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1)x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.