DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Athena Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket in stockinette st, garter st with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 161-10
DROPS design: Pattern no w-552
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-98-106-120-132 cm / 31½"-35½"-38½"-41 3/4"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color no 02, light turquoise

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 522: 7 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP 2:
Inc with YO on each side of 2 sts in each side (the marker sits inbetween these sts). Purl YO twisted on next row.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 st in stockinette st and marker: K 2 tog.
Dec after marker and 1 st in stockinette st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 51 cm /
3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4", 13 3/8", 16½", 20"
SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 43 and 52 cm /
3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4", 13 3/8", 17", 20½"
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 35, 44 and 53 cm /
3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4", 13 3/4", 17 1/4", 21"
SIZE XL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm /
3/4", 4 3/8", 8", 11 3/8", 15", 18½", 22''
SIZE XXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 48 and 58 cm /
3/4", 4 3/8", 8", 11 3/8", 15", 19", 22 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 39, 49 and 59 cm /
3/4", 4 3/8", 8", 11 3/8", 15 1/4", 19 1/4", 23 1/4"
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 101-105-109-113-117-121 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work like this inside 4 band sts in garter st in each side (continue until finished measurements): A.1, AT THE SAME TIME on first row in diagram inc 12-16-18-18-20-20 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 1 = 113-121-127-131-137-141 sts (on 3rd row in A.1 K last st before band sts). When A.1 has been worked vertically, switch back to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work in garter st AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly on 2nd ridge and 6-7-13-15-21-26 sts on 5th ridge (NOTE: Inc on a row from RS. Do not inc over band sts) = 129-138-150-156-168-177 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When 7-7-8-8-8-10 ridges have been worked in total, piece measures 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3"-3"-3"-3½", switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 rows in stockinette st. Now work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* (K last st before band sts). When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', inc by making 1 YO before K st in every section P on row (= 40-43-47-49-53-56 sts inc) = 169-181-197-205-221-233 sts. On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Continue with K 1/P 3. Repeat inc before every st with K when rib measures 4-4-4-5-6-6 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2½"-2½" = 209-224-244-254-274-289 sts. Continue with K 1/P 4 until rib measures 6-6-6-7-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-3"-3" in total. Work 2 rows in stockinette st. Now switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 8-11-11-15-21-28 sts evenly = 217-235-255-269-295-317 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8, and continue with A.1 (on 3rd row in A.1 work last st before band sts in stockinette st). When A.1 has been worked vertically, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges while AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 8-10-10-16-22-28 sts evenly = 225-245-265-285-317-345 sts. Now continue on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 as follows: Work the first 34-38-41-45-51-56 sts (= front piece), slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, work the next 61-69-75-83-95-105 sts (= back piece), slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 34-38-41-45-51-56 sts (= front piece).

BODY:
There are now 145-161-173-189-213-233 sts for body. Insert a marker in each side of body where new sts were cast on under sleeve (= 4 new sts on each side of marker). MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of each markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec when piece measures 11-10-9-8-7-6 cm / 4½"-4"-3½"-3"-2 3/4"-2½" = 137-153-165-181-205-225 sts. When piece measures 18-17-16-15-14-13 cm / 7"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-6"-5½"-5", inc 1 st on each side of each marker - READ INCREASE TIP 2! (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2-2½-3-3-3½-4 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1½" 4 more times = 157-173-185-201-225-245 sts. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½'', inc 10-8-11-10-14-8 sts evenly = 167-181-196-211-239-253 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work 3 ridges. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in stockinette st in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. There are 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts for each sleeve. Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and cast on 8 new sts under sleeve = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. First work 2 ridges and continue hereafter in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marke - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-3½-3-2½-2½-2 cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 7-8-9-9-11-12 more times = 40-40-42-44-44-46 sts. When sleeve measures 35-35-35-34-34-34 cm = 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 3/8", work 1 ridge over all sts and then work A.1. When A.1 has been worked vertically, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and inc 1-1-3-3-3-3 sts evenly = 41-41-45-47-47-49 sts. Work 2 ridges and bind off, sleeve measures approx. 39-39-39-38-38-38 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-15".
Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.09.2016
SLEEVE... = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. First work 2 ridges and continue hereafter in stockinette...
Updated online: 07.05.2019
Correction - SLEEVE: When sleeve measures 35-35-35-34-34-34 cm = 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 3/8", work 1 ridge over all sts and then work A.1

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Concetta wrote:

Volevo sapere come prendere le misure. Devo prendere la misura del collo e poi e in base a questo con il mio campione avvio le maglie. Grazie, vi chiedo per cortesia di essere chiare.

17.03.2023 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Concetta, in fondo alla pagina trova uno schema con le misure: lo paragoni a un capo che possiede per trovare la taglia da lavorare. Buon lavoro!

18.03.2023 - 15:08

country flag Martha wrote:

Hi I must say your patterns are not the easiest to follow. What does "in every section P on row" mean in this part of the yoke:- "When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', inc by making 1 YO before K st in every section P on row (= 40-43-47-49-53-56 sts inc) = 169-181-197-205-221-233 sts" Thanks

26.08.2022 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Martha, you have now to increase the number of stitches purled in the rib, so that you worked before ribbing K1, P2 - you increase 1 purl to get K1, P3 all the row (with front band sts as before) - then repeat the increase the same way after 4 cm to get rib K1, P4. Hope it's now more clear. Happy knitting!

26.08.2022 - 11:52

country flag Martha E Janik wrote:

Hi I'm making the cardigan and I'm a bit confused. After A1 is completed, the last row is worked on the wrong side, therefore the next row starts on the right side. Then it continues with working in garter stitch and increasing on the 2nd ridge. However instructions say to increase on right side of work. The 2nd ridge is on the wrong side so how can it be to increase on the right side? With the 5th ridge that would work out ok. Thanks

24.08.2022 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Janik, depending on the size you will work a total of 7-7-8-8-8-10 ridges, this means 14-14-16-16-16-20 rows in total (all knitted); you will increase on the first row in 2nd ridge = 3rd of these 14-16-20 rows (= RS row) and on the first row of the 5th ridge = 10th of these 14-16-20 rows (RS row). Can this help? Happy knitting!

24.08.2022 - 15:18

country flag Carina wrote:

Hola. Si quiero hacer una elevación en la espalda que patrón me recomiendas para hacerla?. Gracias

24.02.2022 - 09:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carina, la elevación en la espalda es una técnica, por lo que para cada patrón tienes que calcular sus puntos. Algunos ejemplos son: 232-1, 223-11, 223-12, 191-3, 191-17. También puedes consultar el siguiente vídeo: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=894&lang=es

27.02.2022 - 18:39

country flag Maren Butti wrote:

Ich habe diese wunderschöne Jacke aus Brushed alpaca silk, grün gestrickt. Beim Halsausschnitt und Armbündchen habe ich daran gedacht, den Faden doppelt zu nehmen für mehr Stabilität. Bei den Blenden habe ich es leider versäumt. Gibt es eine Idee, die Blenden nachträglich zu festigen? Sie sind so labberig/ empfindlich. Lieben Dank im Voraus, Maren

15.02.2022 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Butti, vielleicht können Sie die Maschen an den Vorderteilen auffassen und so eine gefaltete Kante stricken? Vielleicht hat Ihr DROPS Laden noch weitere Idee dazu, gerne wird man Ihnen dort weiter helfen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.02.2022 - 10:45

country flag Annette Van Helvoirt wrote:

Ik zou graag willen weten of ik bij dit patroon de rondbreinaalden kan vervangen door gewone breinaalden, waarbij ik wel een naad heb, die ik later dicht moet naaien.

23.07.2021 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

De pas kun je eigenlijk niet op rechte naalden breien. Tenzij je een kleine maat breit, maar dan wordt het nog steeds behoorlijk proppen met de steken. Het lijf kun je wel op rechte naalden breien. Voor het lijf moet je dan in de zijnaden extra kantsteken opzetten, die weer weg vallen bij het in elkaar naaien. De mouwen worden van boven naar onder gebreid. Het eerste stuk zou je in de rondt kunnen breien op sokkenbreinaalden en daarna, als er genoeg ruimte is, kun je rechte naalden gebruiken. Bij de mouwen moet je dan ook aan elke kant extra kantsteken opzetten.

26.07.2021 - 16:46

country flag Duverneix wrote:

Bonjour\r\nPeut-on réaliser les manches uniquement avec les aiguilles circulaires car je ne sais pas tricoter avec des aiguilles doubles pointes ? Merci pour vos vonseils.

01.03.2021 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Duverneix, tout à fait, vous pouvez tout tricoter sur aiguille circulaire, pour les plus petites pièces (manches, mais aussi chaussettes, mitaines, etc...) vous pouvez utiliser la technique dite du magic loop (cf vidéo ici). Bon tricot!

02.03.2021 - 08:13

country flag Rita wrote:

Hi there can anyone clarify Inc Tip 1 and how it relates to the A1 pattern. Also I have watched the videos but I find A1 row 2 very Confusing as the video is very fast. I'm a good knitter but this is my first project to knit from the top down. Tkd

07.11.2020 - 18:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rita, increase-tip-1 applies to the first row in A.1 where you have to increase evenly 12 to 20 sts (see size), this meansn when working first row in A.1 = knit all stitches from RS, you will make 12 to 20 yarn overs evenly spaced (read here) - on next row (= row 2 in A.1), purl all stitches from WS, purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Now work row 3 (= K2 tog, YO all the row) and finish with purl all sts from WS (= row 4). Hope this helps, happy knitting!

09.11.2020 - 10:08

country flag Riviere Francoise wrote:

Bonjour, j'en suis à 7 cm puis il faut 2 rangs jersey . s'agit-il de 1 aller retour jersey ou 2 aller retour jersey ? j'ai fait beaucoup de tricot en rond et là j'ai un doute. Merci

02.04.2020 - 12:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rivière, on tricote 2 rangs jersey, soit 1 rang sur l'endroit + 1 rang sur l'envers (avec les mailles des bordures des devants au point mousse comme avant). Bon tricot :)

02.04.2020 - 14:57

country flag Maria Luiza Hasegawa wrote:

Olá, adorei esta peça,é maravilhosa....estou com dificuldade para fazer o A 1....

30.07.2019 - 19:33