DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Esther Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down with short sleeves in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 159-32
DROPS design: Pattern no r-675
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-86-94-102-118-126 cm / 30¾''-33 7/8''-37''-40''-46½''-49½''
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color no 18, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for edge.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 522: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.3. Inc with a YO, work YO twisted on next row to avoid holes.
The inc on body and sleeves are uneven as explained in pattern.

INCREASE TIP:
Beg 1 st before marker and inc as follows: 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 156-160-164-168-172-176 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Muskat. Work 6 sts in garter st, A.1 until 6 sts remain, 6 sts in garter st. Work 4 rows like this, then work A.2 over the 6 sts in each side (= band), continue with A.1 over the remaining sts. When A.1 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work next row as follows: A.2 (= band), work 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), work A.3 (= 19 sts), 1 st in stockinette st, A.3 (= 19 sts) (= 39 sts on sleeve), work 34-36-38-40-42-44 sts in stockinette st (= back piece), work A.3, 1 st in stockinette st and A.3 (= 39 sts on sleeve) and continue with 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), finish with A.2 (= band). Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME inc for RAGLAN beg on next row - see explanation above.
Inc on front/back piece: 1 st every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) a total of 14-16-18-20-26-30 times, then on every other row 7-8-9-10-9-9 times.
Inc on sleeves: 1 st every other row a total of 2-4-6-8-10-12 times and then every 4th row a total of 6 times in all sizes.
After all inc there are 272-296-320-344-376-404 sts on row and piece measures approx. 17-19-20-22-24-26 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4" from shoulder and down.

Work next row from RS as follows: K 43-47-51-55-61-66 (= front piece), slip the next 55-59-63-67-71-75 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts, K 76-84-92-100-112-122 (= back piece), slip the next 55-59-63-67-71-75 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new sts, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts and K the remaining 43-47-51-55-61-66 ( = front piece) = 174-190-206-226-250-274 sts on row - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
Continue in stockinette st and band (in A.2). When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of markers in the sides - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 4 times = 158-174-190-210-234-258 sts. When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4"'' in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2 1/2 cm / 7/8'' a total of 4 times = 174-190-206-226-250-274 sts. When piece measures 33-33-34-34-34-34 cm / 13"-13"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13½", switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work pattern according to diagram A.1 (continue band in A.2), then loosely bind off. Jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 55-59-63-67-71-75 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new sts under sleeve = 61-65-69-75-79-85 sts. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and then loosely bind off. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog under sleeves. Fasten the buttons on left front band, the top button approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from neck, the bottom button approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' from bottom edge. Distribute the remaining button every between these. Sew on buttons to button them in holes on right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to P, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 BOBBLE: K 1, K 1 twisted and K 1 in same st (= 3 sts), turn piece. P 1 row, K 1 row, P 1 row and K 1 row over these 3 sts. Then pass 2nd st on right needle over 1st st and then pass 3rd st over 1st st (= 1 st remains)
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Kerstin Marquardt wrote:

Var i beskrivningen står det var man ska glra knapphål ?

07.04.2023 - 20:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, under montering: Knapparna sys i så att de kan knäppas i hålen på höger framkant.

13.04.2023 - 11:39

country flag Anna Sabelli wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nJe ne suis pas claire, ci-dessous les instructions.\r\n..... Continuer ainsi, EN MÊME TEMPS, augmenter pour le RAGLAN en commençant au rang suivant - voir ci-dessus:\r\nAugmentations devants/dos: 14-16-18-20-26-30 fois 1 m tous les rangs (c\'est-à-dire à la fois sur l\'endroit et sur l\'envers), puis 7-8-9-10-9-9 fois tous les 2 rangs. Merci de votre aide

22.08.2022 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Sabelli,k vous tricotez les points fantaisie/diagrammes dans l'ordre indiqué précédemment, et en même temps vous allez augmenter pour le raglan, les augmentations du raglan se font à un rythme différent pour le dos/les devants et pour les manches; autrement dit vous allez augmenter soit 8 mailles (dos/devants + manches) soit 4 mailles seulement (quand on augmente pour le dos/les devants tous les rangs mais tous les 2 rangs pour les manches par exemple). Est-ce plus clair ainsi? Bonne continuation!

23.08.2022 - 08:13

country flag Bridget Curran wrote:

Sorry, I should've been more specific. So if I have 17 stitches for the right front, then a marker, then the 19 sts for the first A.3, etc. Should I do the raglan increase as follows - (1) K 17, YO, move marker, work 19 sts A.3, etc.; - or - (2) K 16, YO, K1, move marker, work 19 sts. A.3; etc.? I hope that makes sense. Some patterns specify the YO should be x amount of stitches away from the marker, but this pattern doesn't specify. Thanks a million!

11.05.2022 - 22:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Curran, you have to increase on each side of A.3, this means to increase on left front piece, you will work the 1st time the 17 sts, then YO, and work A.3. On the next row from WS you will increase on left front piece (on every row) after A.3 and the 18 sts (17+1 st incrased). Note that you will increase sometimes 8 sts (body + sleeves) and sometimes only 4 sts (body only when increasing on every row on body but on every other row on sleeves). Happy knitting!

12.05.2022 - 08:48

country flag Bridget Curran wrote:

Hiya, for the raglan increases on the body, should they be done right before/after the stitch marker, or one stitch away from the stitch marker? Thanks a million!

11.05.2022 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bridget, the increases are worked before and after the A.3 repeat (for the raglan), which consists of 19 stitches. The marker is between the stitches of the sections of the piece and the beginning or ending of a repeat of A.3. Happy knitting!

11.05.2022 - 21:49

country flag Barbara Pörschmann wrote:

Vielen Dank für die prompte Antwort. VT habe ich mittlerweile verstanden, Raglanzunahme leider nicht, jetzt habe ich eine Mittelmasche mitten im Ärmel, aber das stört mich nicht. im Gegenteil! Anders bei der doppelten Zunahmen (Hin- und Rückreihe) da hatte ich riesige Löcher, das hat mir nicht gefallen. So habe ich eine Masche hochgehäkelt und diese als Zunahme berechnet. Löcher weg.

09.04.2022 - 07:06

country flag Barbara Pörschmann wrote:

"Die nächste Hin-R wie folgt str: 43-47-51-55-61-66 M re (= Vorderteil), " Ist das incl. der 6 Maschen (Blende) oder werden die 6 M erst gestrickt , dann 47 M re Ferner habe ich die Zunahmen an den Ärmeln nicht richtig verstanden: 19+1+19 Grundeinteilung. 1. Zunahme 19+(1.Zun)+1+(1. Zun)+19 2. Zun.: 19+2.zun.+3+2.Zun+19 oder 20+2.Zun+1+2.Zun+20 (????) Wo kommen die Zunahmen hin?

08.04.2022 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Pörschmann, für den Raglan nehmen Sie beidseiting von jedem A.3 zu (siehe RAGLANZUNAHMEN), dh bei den Ärmeln stricken Sie: A.3, Zunahme, glatt rechts (1 bei der 1. Reihe), Zuinahme, A.3. Die BlendeMaschen sind in den 43-47-51-55-61-66 Maschen dazugezählt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.04.2022 - 11:30

country flag Gudrun Norström wrote:

Jag förstår inte hur raglan ska ökas. Ska man öka mellan alla A3 dvs 6 ökningar eller är det 4 som menas alltså mellan framstycke och ärm, ärm och bakstycke, bakstycke och ärm, ärm och framstycke. Hur ökas maskorna på ärmarna, Är det mellan 2 A3 och hur gör jag i såfall. Det ska ökas 1 m men om jag läser ökningstips blir det 2 m.

17.02.2022 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gudrun. Du øker på hver side av A.3 og du strikker A.3 fire ganger pr pinne = 8 økninger. Det er 4 økninger mellom overgangene: venstre forstykke/erm, erm/bakstykket, bakstykke/erm og erm/ høyre forstykke. Det økes også 2 masker midt oppå ermet/ hver side av A.3 = 4 økte masker. Det økes ulikt på bol og ermer, se forklaringen i oppskriften til din str på hvor ofte det skal økes / på hvilken pinner, husk det økes både fra retten og vrangen på forstykket og bakstykket. Øketipse gjelder ikke for raglan, men når du skal øke i sidene = 2 økte masker i hver side = 4 økte masker på hver pinne. mvh DROPS Design

21.02.2022 - 09:58

country flag Kate wrote:

Hi! I don’t understand where I need to increase for sleeves. And for raglan increase before A3 and after A3. Is it right?

11.12.2019 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, you increase for the raglan on each side of each A.3: at the end of right front piece just before A.3, then on each sleeve: after A.3 at the beg of sleeve + before A.3 at the end of sleeve; on back piece: after A.3 at beg of back piece and before A.3 at the end of back piece and after A.3 on left front piece. You will increase sometimes 8 stitches (= sleeves and body) or sometimes 4 stitches (= only on body) - see your size. Happy knitting!

12.12.2019 - 09:31

country flag Miranda wrote:

Non riesco a capire come fare gli aumenti. Si parla di segnapunti ma nelle spiegazioni non sono inseriti. Inoltre non capisco gli aumenti avanti/dietro e raglan. Facendo gli aumenti prima e dopo A3 corrispondono con avanti/raglan, raglan/dietro, dietro/raglan e raglan/davanti. Potete aiutarmi? Grazie in anticipo

10.03.2019 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Miranda. Quando aumenta per il raglan, deve seguire le indicazioni riportate al paragrafo RAGLAN. Il diagramma A3 separa le maniche dai davanti/dietro. Nel testo trova indicato quando aumentare sulle maglie del davanti/dietro e quando sulle maglie delle maniche. Dovrà invece seguire le indicazioni del paragrafo: suggerimento per gli aumenti (dove trova il riferimento al segnapunti) più avanti, quando lavorerà la parte del CORPO. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2019 - 17:12

country flag Eleanor Sofa wrote:

If I have to change my needle size for the main part of this pattern to achieve the gauge, do I also need to change the needle size for the edge?

14.02.2019 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eleanor, the neck edge and the edge at the waist of the cardigan as well as the sleeve edge is all knitted with the 3 mm needles, while the rest of the piece (the body) is done with 4 mm needles. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

15.02.2019 - 07:58