DROPS 128-12
DROPS design: Pattern no R-578
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-80-88-94-106-118 cm / 28½"-31½"-34½"-37"-41 3/4"-46½"
Full length: 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT SOFT from Garnstudio
Color no 03, blue print: 500-550-600-650-700-750 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st and 27 sts x 31 rows in zigzag pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3.5 mm / US 4 (80 cm / 32'') - for garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec for neck and armholes inside 5 P sts. All dec are done from RS.
Dec after 5 sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 5 sts as follows: K 2 tog

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right front band.
1 button hole = bind off the 3rd band st, on next row cast on 1 new st over the bound off st.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE XS: 3, 11, 20, 29, 37 cm / 1 1/8",4 3/8",8",11 3/8",14½"
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 cm / 3/4",4 3/8",8",11 3/8",15"
SIZE M: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 cm / 1 1/8",4 3/4",8 1/4",11 3/4",15 1/4"
SIZE L: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40 cm / 1½",5 1/8",8 3/4",12 1/4",15 3/4"
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 41 cm / 3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13 3/8",16 1/8"
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 cm / 3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13 3/8",16½"
--------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 227-251-275-299-331-363 sts (including 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on 2 circular needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat Soft (to avoid a tight cast on edge). Pull out one of the circular needles. P the 5 band sts on every row until finished measurements!
Work 2 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above - with 5 band sts in each side. Continue as follows (beg from RS): 5 band sts, M.1 (see diagram for size) over the next 216-240-264-288-320-352 sts, 1 st in stockinette st, 5 band sts.
NOTE! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Remember to bind off for BUTTON HOLES on right front band - see explanation above. When piece measures approx. 9 cm / 3½'', dec 2 sts in every other M.1 from RS (see explanation in M.2) = 215-239-263-283-315-347 sts. Then continue with pattern as before. When piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7'', dec 2 sts in the remaining M.1 as before = 203-227-251-267-299-331 sts. Then continue with pattern as before until piece measures 27 cm / 10 5/8''. Now dec 2 sts in every M.1 as before = 179-203-227-235-267-299 sts. Then continue with pattern as before until piece measures 36 cm / 14 1/4'' in all sizes. Now dec 2 sts in every M.1 again as before = 155-179-203-203-235-267 sts.
On next row from RS, K all sts while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 162-178-194-206-234-258. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row from WS (work the 5 band sts in each side as before). On next row, divide piece as follows: Work 43-47-51-54-61-67 sts and slip these sts on a stitch holder (= right front piece), work 76-84-92-98-112-124 sts (= back piece), slip the remaining 43-47-51-54-61-67 sts on a stitch holder (= left front piece), now measure piece from here and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 76-84-92-98-112-124 sts.
Then work in Garter st back and forth until piece measures 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm / 1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½" from where it was divided.
Now on every row, P 8-8-9-10-10-11 sts in each side.
When piece measures 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-4" from where piece was divided, bind off 3-3-4-5-5-6 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows for armholes, continue with 5 P sts in each side. Then continue in garter st while AT THE SAME TIME continuing to dec for armholes inside the 5 P sts in each side – Read DECREASE TIP. Dec 1 st on every other row a total of 3-6-8-9-15-19 times = 64-66-68-70-72-74 sts.
Then continue until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from where piece was divided. Now P the middle 32-34-36-38-40-42 sts on every row (work the other sts as before). Continue to work like this until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm / 8¼''-9''-9¾''-10 5/8''-11 3/8''-12¼''. Now bind off the middle 22-24-26-28-30-32 sts for neck = 21 sts remain for each shoulder. Finish each shoulder separately. Then continue in Garter st and 5 P sts in each side until piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13" from where the piece was divided. Bind off. The whole piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 43-47-51-54-61-67 sts.
Then work in garter st back and forth with 5 band sts towards mid front. NOTE! Remember to bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 2-3-4-5-6-7 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" from where piece was divided (bind offs for button holes are now done), P 2 rows back and forth only over the 5 band sts. Then on next row, beg to dec for neck – Read DECREASE TIP! Dec 1 st on every other row 7 times, then on every 4th row 4-5-6-7-8-9 times and then on every 6th row 5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm / 1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½" from where piece was divided, P over 8-8-9-10-10-11 sts in the side on every row. When piece measures 5-6-7-8-9-10 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-4" from where piece was divided, bind off and dec for armhole as on back piece.
When all dec and bind offs for armhole and neck are done, 21 sts remain on needle. Continue until piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13" from where piece was divided. Bind off. The whole piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed and without button holes.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 47-50-52-54-57-57 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat Soft. Work in garter st until piece measures 5 cm / 2''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. When piece measures 8-8-9-8-9-9 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-3 1/8"-3½"-3½", inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 4.5-4-3-3-2.5-2 cm / 1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4" a total of 10-11-13-14-15-18 times = 67-72-78-82-87-93 sts. When piece measures 51-51-50-50-48-47 cm / 20"-20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19"-18½" - NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder width - bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-6 times.
Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 58-59-59-60-60-61 cm / 22¾''-23¼''-23¼''-23 5/8''-23 5/8''-24'', then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 59-60-60-61-61-62 cm / 23 1/4"-23 5/8"-23 5/8"-24"-24"-24 3/8".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one in front loop of outermost st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog,
psso
symbols = slip 2 sts as if to K, K 3 tog,
pass the 2 slipped sts over
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 128-12

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Julia Rau wrote:

I would like to make this jacket using the yarn as pictured but it seems to be discontinued. Can you recommend a replacement multi colored yarn? Do you have plans to produce this again? Is there any distributor that may still have this yarn available for purchase? Thank you.

15.01.2023 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kulia, If you search online for this particular yarn, there might be distributors with stock still available. Otherwise you can replace Muskat soft with DROPS Belle, Cotton Light, Cotton Merino, Karisma, Lima, Merino Extra Fine, Muskat, Puna, Sky or Soft Tweed. Hope this helps. Happy crafting!

16.01.2023 - 06:52

country flag Sussi Beck wrote:

Jeg har fulgt opskriften og kan kun få et knaphul i str. L. Hvis man læser opskriften skal der tages ind sidste gang i M1 når arbejdet måler 36 cm i alle str. Men hvis man læser hvornår der skal laves knaphuller i de forskellige str., er der kun èt knaphul tilbage efter 36 cm. (XS: 37 cm, S: 38 cm, M: 39 cm, L: 40 cm, XL: 41, XXL: 42 cm.) MEN det er ikke det der vises på billedet, der er to knaphuller efter M1. Der må da være en fejl i opskriften ?.

31.10.2019 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sussi, ja det stemmer, design har bestemt sig for at M1 skal måle 36 cm i alle størrelser. Og de har bestemt sig for at det blev finere uden det sidste knaphul i selve halskanten. I størrelse L er der 5 knaphuller og 9 cm imellem hver, du er naturligvis velkommen til at fordele dem anderledes hvis du absolut vil have 2 knaphuller efter mønsteret :)

01.11.2019 - 09:46

country flag Sussi Beck wrote:

Hej. Forstår ikke helt at der skal strikkes sik-sak mønster til 36 cm i alle størrelser. Det betyder at der kun skal strikkes 1 knaphul efter. Men på billedet er der strikket 2 knaphuller efter. Hvordan skal det forstås?

31.10.2019 - 11:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sussi, det kan være forskelligt i de forskellige størrelser, med antal knaphuller efter, så det bedste er at følge opskriften :)

31.10.2019 - 15:46

country flag Sussi Beck wrote:

Hej. Modellen er vist i striber men hvor er mønstret til striberne og hvad er garnforbruget?

01.10.2019 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sussi, DROPS Muskat Soft 03 var stribet, det er desværre udgået, så du må selv finde de 4 farver i DROPS Muskat eller Cotton Light hvis du vil have striberne med. God fornøjelse!

02.10.2019 - 10:57

country flag Ulla Lindau wrote:

Hej! Har börjat att sticka den här söta koftan,men får inte till det med sig-dag mönstret. När man lyfter två maskor och tar ihop 3 maskor och drar de två över måste det väl bli färre maskor kvar. Ska man inte lägga upp extra maskor igen då nästa varv? Får inte till det. Hälsning Ulla

29.01.2015 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla, Du ökar ju med ett omslag i varje sida av diagrammen och har då samma antal m. MEN i M.2 minskar du 2 m varje gång du stickar diagrammet (minskar 4 men ökar 2m) Lycka till!

02.02.2015 - 14:09

country flag Pia Wettergren wrote:

For dårligt at vise en stribet og så kun angive garnforbrug til ensfarvet

29.12.2014 - 17:33

country flag Sofia wrote:

Habe gerade diese schöne Jacke gefunden, aber leider nicht das dazugehörige Garn! Welche Alternative gibt es?

01.07.2013 - 23:57

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Because of the zigzag pattern is the number of stitches high. The pattern says: Then work in Garter st back and forth.....

30.03.2011 - 08:26

country flag Susanne Busch wrote:

Have just started working on this jacket and I'm quite puzzled by the number of stitches to begin with. It is to large. Any ideas? I'm really quite worried and have no idea toreduce the number because of the zig zag pattern. Another problem: the zig zag pattern seems to end after 27 cm. But how does the pattern go on? I presume with garter st. but it is not explained in the description

29.03.2011 - 18:25

country flag Christine wrote:

Habe die Jacke gestrickt. Ist super geworden. Ich bin begeistert. Es sieht noch schöner aus wie auf dem Bild. Viele Grüße Christine

24.02.2011 - 10:44