DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Checkmate Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with domino squares and raglan in ”Fabel” and “Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 165-13
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-309
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g, color no 905, salt and pepper
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-250-300-300-350 g color no 8903, black

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st or 24 sts x 40 rows in garter/stockinette st (sleeve) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTONS NO 534: 6-6-6-5-5-5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MEASURING TIP:
Because of the ridges the sleeves will be approx. 5 cm / 2'' longer when garment is done.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K

KNITTING TIP 1: To avoid all yarn fastenings, every square on first row can be worked with 2 separate balls (1 of each yarn). Instead of cutting the yarn, the balls can follow the squares upwards in the rows.

KNITTING TIP 2: Always pick up sts from RS.

STRIPES BODY: Work body in stripes as follows:
Always pick up sts with ALPACA, K 1 row from WS with ALPACA, K 2 rows MORE with Alpaca. Thereafter * K 2 rows with Fabel, K 2 rows with Alpaca *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES SLEEVE: Work as follows:
Row 1: K from RS with Alpaca.
Row 2: P from WS with Alpaca.
Row 3: K from RS with Fabel.
Row 4: K from WS with Fabel.
Repeat these 4 rows upwards.

WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 sts tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (vertical):
There are 6 band sts worked in garter st until the half square has been finished.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): Work 6 sts band, K 2 tog, work the rest of row.
Work opposite on square in the other side of piece, i.e. K until 8 sts remain (includes band), K 2 tog, 6 band sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 1 st on square (towards band) on every other row until 1 st (+ 6 band sts) remains. Cut the yarn and pull it through this st. Slip 6 band sts on 1 stitch holder.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (horizontal):
Work as whole domino square but in addition to dec in the middle of square, slip last st at the end of every row on 1 stitch holder. Continue like this until 5-5-3-3-3-3 sts remain on needle.
SIZE S-M: 5 sts remain on row (= 6-7 sts on stitch holder in each side). K 1 row from WS and slip last st at end of row on stitch holder. On next row (from RS) work as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso. Slip last st at end of row on stitch holder (= 7-8 sts on stitch holder). Cut the yarn and pull it through last st on row.
SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL: 3 sts remain on row (= 8-9-10-11 sts on stitch holder in each side). K 1 row from WS over the 3 sts. On next row (= from RS) work as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. Dec for buttonholes on third last row (= from RS) every time HALF DOMINO SQUARE (vertical) as follows:
K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, 1 YO.
SIZE S-M-L: Dec for buttonholes on 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th and 11th row with dominos.
SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL: Dec for buttonholes on 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th row with dominos.
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JACKET: Beg by casting on sts the entire width of garment, then work one and one square back and forth in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above.

ROW 1: Cast on 319-359-379-419-459-499 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Fabel. K 1 row from WS. Work next row (from RS) as follows: K 6 (= band), * K 28-32-34-38-42-46, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso *, repeat from *-* 9 times and finish with K 28-32-34-38-42-46, K 6 (band) = 301-341-361-401-441-481 sts. K band on every row until finished measurements. K 1 row over all sts. Now work HALF DOMINO SQUARE (vertical) - see explanation above - over the first 20-22-23-25-27-29 sts (includes 6 band sts) - start on 2nd row. Keep the remaining sts on the needle. Read KNITTING TIP 1 and STRIPES ON BODY. Remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Then work WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE - see explanation above - over the next 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle, beg on 2nd row.
When Domino square has been worked, work the next 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts the same way. Continue like this until 20-22-23-25-27-29 sts remain on needle (9½ domino squares have been worked). Then work the half Domino square (vertical) and band over these sts (beg on 2nd row). When the half square has been worked and 6 band sts have been slipped on 1 stitch holder, there are 9 whole and 2 half Domino squares on 1st row.

ROW 2: Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edge of the first half square - READ KNITTING TIP 2. Then pick up 1 st between half square and next square from 1st row, and pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the side on next square = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work whole domino square. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between 2 and 2 squares from 1st row until 10 whole Domino squares have been worked on 2nd row.

ROW 3: Slip 6 band sts back on needle, pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edge on first square worked on 2nd row = 20-22-23-25-27-29 sts. Then work half domino square (vertical). When half square has been worked and 6 band sts have been slipped on 1 stitch holder, pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts from RS along the edge on each of the next 2 squares from 2nd row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Then work whole domino square. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between 2 and 2 squares from 2nd row. Continue like this until 9½ domino squares have been worked on 3rd row. Now pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts from RS along the edge on the last square, slip 6 band sts back on needle. Work half domino square (vertical). When the half square has been worked and 6 band sts have been slipped on 1 stitch holder, there are 9 whole and 2 half Domino squares on 3rd row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd row until 9-9-9-7-7-7 rows with domino squares have been worked.

ROW 10-10-10-8-8-8: Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edge of the half square. Then pick up 1 st between the half square and next square from previous row. Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the side of next square = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work whole domino square. Pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between the next 2 squares. Work whole domino square. Skip the other side of the 3rd square from previous row and first side from 4th square on previous row. * Pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between the next 2 squares. Work whole domino square *, repeat from *-* 4 times. Skip the other side from the 8th square from previous row and first side on 9th square on previous row.* Pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between the next 2 squares. Work whole domino square *, repeat from *-* 2 times = 2 domino squares on each front piece, 4 domino square on back piece. Now finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
ROW 11-11-11-9-9-9: Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work whole domino square. When Domino square has been worked, pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between 2 and 2 squares. Continue like this until 3 domino squares have been worked.

ROW 12-12-12-10-10-10: Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work half domino square (horizontal). When Domino square has been worked, pick up 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts between the next 2 squares. Work half domino square (horizontal).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
ROW 11-11-11-9-9-9:
Slip 6 band sts back on needle, pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edge on first square worked on previous row = 20-22-23-25-27-29 sts. Then work half domino square (vertical). When half square has been worked and 6 band sts have been slipped on 1 stitch holder, pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts from RS along the edge on each of the next 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work whole domino square.

ROW 12-12-12-10-10-10:
Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edge of the half square. Then pick up 1 st between the half square and next square from previous row. Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the side of next square = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work half domino square (horizontal).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
ROW 11-11-11-9-9-9:
Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edges on each of the next 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work whole domino square. Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts from RS along the edge on the last square, slip 6 band sts back on needle. Work band and half domino square (vertical).

ROW 12-12-12-10-10-10:
Pick up 14-16-17-19-21-23 sts along the edges on each of the 2 squares from previous row and 1 st between squares = 29-33-35-39-43-47 sts on needle. Work half domino square (horizontal).

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-52-54-58-60-62 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Work 2 ridges with Alpaca, then work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above. READ MEASURING TIP! When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 2-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-1/4" 14-15-16-16-17-18 more times = 80-84-88-92-96-100 sts. When piece measures 41-41-39-38-36-33 cm / 16"-16"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13", beg dec for raglan, dec 1 st in each side as follows: Dec on every 4th row 0-0-3-3-5-7 times, then on every other row 26-28-27-29-29-29 times = 28 sts remain in all sizes. Slip sts on a stitch holder. Make another sleeve.

Sew sleeve seam and sew sleeve in raglan on body. Slip all sts (from sleeve and front/back piece + bands) back on needle = 124-132-132-140-148-156 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body. Work 4 ridges with Alpaca, at the same time on every row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 tog (8 sts dec in total per round, 32 sts dec in total) = 92-100-100-108-120-124 sts. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Donna wrote:

How many rows and stitches are needed to make a four-inch swatch? I seem to have missed that if it was included in the instructions.

29.12.2022 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Donna, With the needle size given, you should have 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st or 24 sts x 40 rows in garter/stockinette st (sleeve) on your 4 x 4 inch swatch. Happy New Year!

30.12.2022 - 10:03

country flag Jane Kejser wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg undgår at hæfte alle dominoruderne Bruger jo hele tiden 1 nøgle af hver kvalitet pga. striber Hvordan skal jeg få nøglerne til at følge med op uden at klippe? På forhånd tak

01.02.2020 - 00:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Les STRIKKETIPS 1 i oppskriften: For å unngå alle trådfestene kan hver rute på 1.rad strikkes med 2 egne nøster (1 av hver kvalitet). I stedet for å klippe tråden kan nøstene følge rutene oppover i radene. Ta gjerne en titt på hjelpevideoen (Hvordan strikke dominorute) og les forklaringen der, under oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

03.02.2020 - 11:57

country flag Ute wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich das ganze Dominoquadrat stricke, muss ich ja einen Markierer setzen. Was mache ich damit, wenn ich die Masche davor abhebe und dann zwei M zusammenstricke, dann ist der doch im Weg?

15.01.2019 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ute, der Markierer setzen Sie in der mittleren Masche wieder, damit er immer in der Mitte bleibt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.01.2019 - 16:53

Theresa McVey wrote:

Where is the size chart for this pattern?

27.06.2018 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McVey, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern there are all measurements for each size taken flat from side to side, compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shpae to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

28.06.2018 - 08:34

country flag Mary Erlandsson wrote:

Hej jag har stickat denna fina tröja med rätt garn o stickor som det står i beskrivningen ,ja stickade storlek M men färdigt resultat blev knappt S.Vet inte vad som blivit fel, garnåtgången har också varit som den skulle enligt beskrivningen men inte storleken på tröjan. nu har jag en jättefin tröja som är alldeles för lite till mej och vet inte vad jag skall göra med den?

13.04.2018 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du har väl kontrollerat stickfastheten? Detta är väldigt viktigt eftersom stickfastheten varierar från person till person. Troligen skulle du behöva byta till grövre stickor.

14.04.2018 - 14:16

country flag Birgit wrote:

Ich schreibe auf Bitte meiner Mutter. Wir kommen mit der angegebenen Maschenzahl nicht zurecht. Bei Gr L werden 379M angeschlagen. 2x6M für die Blende. 34 M str. 3M für die Abnahme. 10x wiederholen., Das geht nicht auf. Wo ist unser Denkfehler?

29.01.2018 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, so stricken Sie die 379 M: 6 Blendemaschen, [(34 M + 3 (Abnahme)) x 9 = 333], 34 M, 6 Blendemaschen = 379 M - dann haben Sie: 6 + (34+1=x9=315) + 34 + 6 = 361 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.01.2018 - 08:16

country flag Karin wrote:

Hej Jeg kan bare ikke finde ud af at strikke denne trøje har i en anden opskrift som jeg kan strikke, nu hvor jeg har købt garnet

19.01.2018 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Opskriften er ikke så let, man skal være øvet for at strikke den. Men du kan søge på bluse og så vælge garngruppe A, så får du masser at vælge imellem. God fornøjelse!

22.01.2018 - 16:59

country flag Helen Bason wrote:

What happens with the stitches after working row twelve. Are they cast off or left on the needle. No instructions for working the neckband in the pattern

31.05.2017 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bason, you will slip all sts back on needle at the very end to work neckband (see last paragraph before ASSEMBLY). Happy knitting!

31.05.2017 - 16:40

country flag Andrea Vielhaber wrote:

Hallo, auch nach mehrmaligem lesen bin ich mir nicht sicher . Die 1.Reihe mit Quadraten wird ja nur in Fabel gestrickt. In der 2. Reihe nehme ich die Maschen mit Alpaca auf,stricke dann jedes Quadrat erst in Alpaca als Rumpfteil Streifen und wechsel dann zu Fabel und stricke das Quadrat? Habe ich das jetzt richtig so verstanden? LG A.Vielhaber

19.05.2017 - 08:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vielhaber, zuerst 1 Hinreihe rechts (mit Abnahmen) in Fabel stricken, dann 1 Rückreihe rechts in Fabel stricken. Dann werden die Quadraten angefangen (= 1. Quadrat über die ersten 20-29 M): 2 Reihe Alpaca/2 Reihe Fabel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.05.2017 - 09:32

country flag Ellen Svarre wrote:

Er igang med en cardigan. Laver dog mit eget mønster udfra jeres opskrift. Mit spørgsmål er hvorfor er der 8 rækker af ruder i de små størrelser og kun 6 i de store størrelser? Har skimmet opskriften og syntes ikke at det lyder som om at ruderne er så meget størrer i de stor størrelser? Undre mig bare.😘😉😄

06.03.2017 - 22:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ellen. Jeg tror det har noget at göre med at skuldrene/raglan er breddere i de store str - det har jeg set för, men aerlig talt saa ved jeg det ikke 100% hvorfor designeren har taenkt det saadan.

07.03.2017 - 14:25