Hannah's Hat

Hannah’s Hat 

   

You’ll need:

140 yards of Aran weight yarn in primary color for hat

20 yards of Aran weight yarn in secondary color for hat

Size 8 needles

Tapestry needle

40 yards of Aran weight yarn for pompom in secondary color, or 20 yards each of primary and secondary color for a 2-toned pompom.

Pompom maker, or thick cardboard to make pompom template

(total of 200 yards of yarn, or approx. 110 grams)

Cast on 84 stitches in primary color.

K2, P2 until hat measures 5 inches from cast-on edge.

Knit in colorwork pattern, joining in secondary color according to pattern.
(If you have difficulty viewing the pattern, then I recommend you right-click on the image and either open image in new window or save image)

After row 23 of pattern cut secondary color.

Continue knitting in primary color for 10 more rows (should be approximately 11.5 inches from cast-on edge).

K2tog around (42 stitches)

Knit one round

K2tog around (21 stitches)

Knit one round

K2tog around until one stitch remaining. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Using tapestry needle, pull yarn through remain stitches and then pull tight.

Make large pompom in secondary color, or a mix of primary and secondary colors.

Attach pompom securely to top of hat.

Weave in all ends.

Variations:

Use blank chart to create your own colorwork chart. Be careful not to create runs longer than 7 stitches of the same color or you may run the risk of uneven colorwork and “puckering” effect as the lengths of yarn on the underside of the knitting are pulled too tight.

If you do not want a folded brim, then only knit in ribbing for 2.5 inches before beginning colorwork. Decreases should begin when hat is at 9 inches in length. If you choose to do this then I recommend knitting the ribbing in a smaller size (size 7 needles) as otherwise the ribbing section may be too loose. 

 

Peter's Scarf

Ah, the quest for the perfect knitted Giftmas present. For my younger brother it was a scarf, a cabled scarf to be precise. I wanted a simple, yet distinctive cable pattern - not too busy. Almost all the patterns I found were far too wide for what I had in mind, so I came up with this simple, easy to memorize, relatively narrow cabled scarf, suitable for a man or a woman. A braid with the appearance of four strands runs down the center and a simple mirror-image twist borders the braid with a no fuss seed stitch edge on the sides and top and bottom.

Peter's Scarf:


You will need an Aran weight yarn, although of course any weight will do as you will just need to adjust your needle size. I used Summer Tweed by Rowan which is a lovely silk/cotton blend, as my brother cannot wear wool. As with all cabled items, lighter colored yarns will allow the cables to be more distinctive. You will use approximately 26 yards of yarn for every 5 inches of scarf before blocking, so plan accordingly (3 skeins of Summer Tweed made a 68 inch scarf, before blocking). Keep in mind that the scarf length and width after blocking will vary greatly depending on the type of yarn you are using, so if you want a particular length, be sure to swatch.

You will also need US 7, 4.5 mm, needles.

Abbreviations:
C4F (Cable 4 Front) – Slip next 2 sts onto CN and hold in Front, K2 from the left needle, K2 from the CN.
C4B (Cable 4 Back) – Slip next 2 sts onto CN and hold in Back, K2 from the left needle, K2 from the CN.

Cast on 28 stitches

Seed stitch end:
Wrong side: *P1, K1, repeat to end
Right side: *K1, P1, repeat to end
Repeat the previous two rows one more time
(P1, K1) 2 times, *P1, Kfb, (P1, K1) 2 times, * repeat to end of row (32 sts)

Pattern:
Row 1(RS): K1, P2, K4, P3, C4F, K4, C4B, P3, K4, P1, K1, P1
Row 2: P1, K2, P4, K3, P12, K3, P4, K1, P1, K1
Row 3: K1, P2, C4B, P3, K2, C4F, C4B, K2, P3, C4F, P1, K1, P1
Row 4: Same as Row 2
Row 5: K1, P2, K4, P3, K4, C4F, K4, P3, K4, P1, K1, P1
Row 6: Same as Row 2


For a larger version of the chart, go here.

Repeat the pattern until the scarf is the desired length, or until you have 5-6 yards remaining.

Seed stitch end:
(K1, P1) 2 times, *Ktog, P1, (K1, P1) 2 times, * repeat to end of row (28 sts)
*P1, K1, *repeat to end
*K1, P1, *repeat to end
Repeat the previous two rows one more time
Cast off

Ravelry pattern page here: Peter's Scarf

Menger Washcloth

If one can have a Menger Sponge, then why not a Menger Washcloth to complete the set? Yes, this pattern appeals to my inner geek as well as the part of me that loves a play on words. For more info on the Menger Sponge Fractal, check out the Wikipedia entry.

You will need approximately 70 yards or so of worsted weight cotton (I used Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton) and size 7 needles.

Cast on 37 stitches and follow the chart for 54 rows. Cast off. For a larger/complete version of the chart, go here.


The finished washcloth should be about 8 inches square. The texture variations on the washcloth/dishcloth make for an efficient cleaning surface, and plus the pattern looks good on both sides!



The pattern page on Ravelry is here.

Oh, and in case you were curious, the soap came from here: GeekSoap.net

LSG Quilting Bee Square

Here are the directions for my LSG Quilting Bee Square!



I have seen variations of this pattern called “Stacked Squares”, “Chevron Log Cabin” and “Half Log Cabin Square” (which would be a misnomer, as it would be a quarter Log Cabin if anything, but whose counting?).

In this variation the strips of colors get darker and thinner as they reach the outer edges of the square.

To create a 12” square (12.5 with seam allowances) then sizes for cutting are as follows (measurements in inches):

Starting Square: 5 x 5

2 Dark Yellow strips: 3 x 5 and 3 x 7.5

2 Orange strips: 2.5 x 7.5 and 2.5 x 9.5

2 Dark Orange strips: 2 x 9.5 and 2 x 11

2 Red strips: 1.5 x 11 and 1.5 x 12

2 Dark Red strips: 1 x 12 and 1 x 12.5

Start by picking out your starting square. This is the personal part of the quilt – I want to see something you love! Pick out a square of fabric you think is awesome or try your hand at appliqué, embroidery, or miniature patchwork. You can even do a knit or crochet square and that would be fine with me. My only stipulation is that whatever you pick is machine washable (as this lap quilt will be used often and I am a slob). You can also take a simple 5 x 5 inch square and make a drawing on it (I have included a square of plain fabric and fabric pens for you in the swap if you would like this option, but don’t feel like you have to use my fabric). Feel free to make your starting square “adult-themed” as well. Keep in mind that in the final quilt the blocks will be on-point, so the square will actually be a diamond standing on its point.



For my sample block this is my starting square:



Now attach the 3 x 5 inch strip of Dark Yellow to the upper-right side of the square.



Press seams away from the starting square.

Attach the 3 x 7.5 inch strip of Dark Yellow to the upper-left side of the square. Again, press seams away from the starting square.



Attach the 2.5 x 7.5 inch strip of Orange to the upper-right. Press seams.



Attach the 2.5 x 9.5 inch strip of Orange to the upper-left.



A couple notes to remember: You always attach the shorter of the two strips in each colorway first and you always press the seams away from the original square (towards the darker colors).



Continue with the remaining color strips in this manner, moving from lighter to darker colors.



Sew the last dark red strip on and you will be all done – woo hoo!!!



I'm looking forward to making the squares for my partners now!

Wee Little Crown

I was making the cute little froggie from Sarah Gasson The Knitables Collection for my sweetie (with fingering weight yarn so he would be a wee little froggie). However, when he was finished I decided that as he was being made for my own Prince Charming the froggie needed a wee little crown for his wee little head.



Here are the directions for making your own Wee Little Crown:

You may use any size yarn for this project. As my froggie was made with fingering weight I made the crown with fingering weight as well (a lovely golden shade from Shameless Twist).

Use a needle size to match your yarn (I used US 2 - 2.75mm)

The amount of stitches you cast on will depend on how large you want the crown to be. I would try a few rows in different sizes and see which works best for the doll or animal you are making the crown for. Whatever size you choose you should cast on an ODD number of stitches (I cast on 15 stitches). Cast on loosely.

Rows 1 and 3: Knit
Rows 2 and 4: Purl
Row 5: K1, *YO, K2tog, *repeat to end
Rows 6 and 8: Purl
Rows 7 and 9: Knit
Cast off loosely leaving a long tail.

Fold the crown over so that cast-on and cast-off edges match up (knit sides showing) and press flat.
Use the yarn tail to sew the two halves of the crown together, along the cast-on and cast-off edges.
Curve the crown into a circular shape and seam up the backside.
Trim ends or use the remaining yarn to sew the crown to the head.

Gorp

The Gorp



I did not create the Gorp. The Gorp was created by Sherri Chessen in 1995. She wrote a series of books to help young children deal with difficult issues, such as gun safety, sexual abuse, and bullying. See the Gorp’s website at www.thegorp.com



As a part of the Knitter’s For Obama group on Ravelry we have currently been knitting toys for the Chicago Children’s Advocacy Center. It primarily serves children, ages 2 through 12, who have been sexually assaulted or abused. It is a multi disciplinary center and houses advocacy, mental health, child life, police, forensics, legal child welfare and medical facilities all under one roof. They utilize Sherri Chessen’s books to help the children in their care with their recovery. I designed this knitted version of the Gorp to send to the Advocacy Center. If you choose to knit one for yourself, I implore you to make a second one and send it to the Center.



You will need:
Approximately 50 yards of Bulky weight yarn, I used Lion Brand Jiffy Solid
Size 8 DPNs
Stuffing material
A few yards of scrap yarn for the eyes and mouth
Tapestry needle

Body and Head:

CO 8 sts onto DPNs. Place Marker.
1. *K1, Kfb *repeat to Marker (12 sts)
2. K
3. *K2, Kfb *repeat to M (16 sts)
4. K
6. *K3, Kfb *repeat to M (20 sts)
8-9. K
10. *K4, Kfb *repeat to M (24 sts)
11-12. K
13. *K3, Kfb *repeat to M (30 sts)
13-14. K
15. *K4, Kfb *repeat to M (36 sts)
16-17. K
18. *K5, Kfb *repeat to M (42 sts)
19-21. K
22. *K6, Kfb *repeat to M (48 sts)
23-25. K
26. *K10, K2tog *repeat to M (44 sts)
27-28. K
29. *K9, K2tog *repeat to M (40 sts)
30-31. K
32. *K8, K2tog *repeat to M (36 sts)
33-34. K
35. *K7, K2tog *repeat to M (32 sts)
36-37. K
38. *K6, K2tog *repeat to M (28 sts)
39-40. K
41. *K5, K2tog *repeat to M (24 sts)
42-43. K
44. *K4, K2tog *repeat to M (20 sts)
45. K, remove marker.
46. K16, ssk, K1, turn to purl side, leaving last stitch on a spare needle.
47. Sl 1 purlwise, P3, P2tog, P1, turn.
48. Sl 1 purlwise, K4, ssk, K1, turn.
49. Sl 1 purlwise, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
50. K8, pick up one stitch, K8, pick up one stitch, Place Marker (18 sts)
51. K to M
52. K9, turn
53. P9, turn
54. K to M (18 sts)
55. K7, turn
56. P5, turn
57. K9, SSK, K1, K2tog, K2 (16 sts total on needles)
58. K
59. *K2, K2tog *repeat to M (12 sts)
60-61. K
62. Kfb all sts (24 sts)
63. K
64. *K, Kfb *repeat to M (36 sts)
65-67. K
68. *K2, K2tog *repeat to M (30 sts)
69. K
70. K2tog around (15 sts)
71. K
Stuff body and head.
72. K1, * K2tog *repeat to M (8 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. With tapestry needle pick up the remaining 8 stitches and pull opening closed. Knot yarn and pull through head. Close up cast-on opening. Close gaps in knitting created in neck by hand-sewing with tapestry needle.

Legs:

CO 6 sts onto DPNs
1. Kfb all sts (12 sts)
2-8. K
9. K2tog all sts (6 sts)
10. K
Stuff foot.
11. K2tog all sts (3 sts)
Arrange sts onto one needle and knit icord for 7-9 inches (or approximately the length of the Gorp body+neck).
Cut yarn and sew leg onto body.
(One way of doing this is to turn after the last row of icord and purl for three stitches. Using another needle, pick up three stitches on the body where you would like to attach the leg. Hold the needle with the leg stitches up to the needle on the body and do a three needle bind-off, thus securing the leg to the body.)
Using a tapestry needle, sew up the end of the foot.
Knot the end of the yarn, pull the yarn through the foot and cut off the remaining yarn.

Repeat for the second leg.

Finishing:

Using scrap yarn, sew on eyes. Using black embroidery thread, sew on the mouth and add pupils to the eyes.

See the Pattern on Ravelry here.

Celtic Oaks

Have done some knitting recently... a sweater to be specific. A sweater for ME. A sweater to curl up on the couch in and read a book on a cold, blustery day (we will ignore the fact that I finished this sweater in the middle of July). It is a much-adapted version of a Topsecret sweater from Knitty.com.





However, I did have fun in designing a chart to make a Celtic/Oak pattern with a tree in the front and two oak leaves and an acorn in the back.



You can download the chart as a JPG from Flickr here.

Enjoy!