DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Laid Back Afternoon

Knitted DROPS jumper with stripes and vents in the sides ”Paris” and “Bomull-Lin”. Size S- XXXL

DROPS 170-19
DROPS design: Pattern no l-139
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 01, apricot
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 38, raspberry
and use:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color no 03, light beige
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 11, beige
50 g for all sizes in color no 05, brown.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES BACK AND FRONT PIECE:
Stripe 1: 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" with Bomull-Lin light beige.
Stripe 2: 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½'' with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 3: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin brown.
Stripe 4: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 5: 6 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 6: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin light beige.
Stripe 7: 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''-3½'' with Paris apricot.
Stripe 8: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris raspberry.
Stripe 9: 4 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 10: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris raspberry.
Stripe 11: 4 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 12: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris raspberry.
Stripe 13: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin brown.
Stripe 14: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 15: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin light beige.
Stripe 16: 4 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 17: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris raspberry.
Stripe 18: 4 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 19: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 20: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin brown.
Stripe 21: 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/8''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½'' with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 22: Work with Bomull-Lin light beige until finished measurements.

STRIPES SLEEVE:
Stripe 1: Work 12 cm / 4¾'' with Bomull-Lin light beige.
Stripe 2: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin brown.
Stripe 3: 4 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 4: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin light beige.
Stripe 5: 4 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 6: 2 rows in all sizes with Paris raspberry.
Stripe 7: 4 rows in all sizes with Paris apricot.
Stripe 8: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 9: 2 rows in all sizes with Bomull-Lin brown.
Stripe 10: 5 cm / 2'' in all sizes with Bomull-Lin beige.
Stripe 11: Work with Bomull-Lin light beige until finished measurements.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st before sts in garter st towards the neck as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before st in garter st, K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after sts in garter st from the neck as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Work in stockinette st from RS but assemble with WS outwards.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 75-81-87-95-103-113 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Bomull-Lin light beige. Continue with STRIPES - see explanation above and work as follows: Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work 2 sts in garter st, stockinette st until 2 sts remain, 2 sts in garter st. When piece measures 21 cm / 8 1/4'' in all sizes, cast on 1 edge st in each side of piece at the end of the next 2 rows = 77-83-89-97-105-115 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Continue with 2 more rows in stockinette st and in garter st over the outermost 3 sts in each side (includes edge st) of piece. Then continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8'', bind off 1-2-2-2-2-3 sts for armholes at beg of the next 2 rows = 75-79-85-93-101-109 sts on needle. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', work as follows: Work the first 24-26-28-32-35-39 sts as before, work in garter st over the next 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts, continue as before over the remaining 24-26-28-32-35-39 sts. When 2 ridges have been worked over the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 sts, work next row from RS as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before st in garter st, dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP, work 2 sts in garter st, bind off the next 23-23-25-25-27-27 sts for neck, work 2 sts in garter st, dec 1 st, work the remaining sts on needle as before = 25-27-29-33-36-40 sts remain for shoulder. Then finish each shoulder separately. Turn and work back and forth in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole and 2 sts in garter st towards the neck. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'', bind off all sts. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 55-57-58-60-61-63 cm / 21½"-22½"-22 3/4"-23½"-24"-24 3/4", work next row from RS as follows: Work as before over the first 29-31-34-38-41-45 sts, then work in garter st over the next 17-17-17-17-19-19 sts, continue over the remaining 29-31-34-38-41-45 sts. When 2 ridges have been worked over the middle 17-17-17-17-19-19 sts, work next row from RS as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before st in garter st, dec 1 st, work 2 sts in garter st, bind off the next 13-13-13-13-15-15 sts for neck, work 2 sts in garter st, dec 1 st, work the remaining sts on needle as before. There are now 30-32-35-39-42-46 sts for shoulder. Then finish each shoulder separately. Continue back and forth over shoulder with stockinette st, 2 sts in garter st towards the neck and 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole, and repeat dec on every row from the neck 5-5-6-6-6-6 more times = 25-27-29-33-36-40 sts for shoulder. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'', bind off all sts. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 32-33-36-37-38-39 sts (includes 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Bomull-Lin light beige. Continue with STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above and work as follows: Work 2 ridges. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 11-11-11-10-10-6 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-4"-4"-2 3/8", inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-7/8"-7/8" 8-9-9-10-11-12 more times = 50-53-56-59-62-65 sts on needle. When piece measures 47-47-46-44-41-40 cm / 18½"-18½"-18"-17 1/4"-16"-15 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), loosely bind off. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble jumper with WS out. Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edges. Sew sleeves to body and sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew side seam from armhole and down to vent in each side (= vent = 21 cm / 8 1/4''). Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Hallo an alle, bei mir ist dasselbe Problem aufgetaucht wie bei Maike N.: Die Farben 03 und 11 von Bomull-Lin unterscheiden sich so gut wie gar nicht, auch verstrickt nicht. Meine Lösung des Problems war, dass ich als Ersatz für Farbe 11 Farbe 05 von Bomull-Lin verwendet habe, und als Ersatz für die Farbe 05 von Bomull-Lin dann Farbe 44 (braun) von Paris. Und tatsächlich, jetzt ist der Kontrast zwischen den drei Beige- und Brauntönen so schön wie auf dem Bild :)

23.01.2023 - 14:04

country flag Nathalie Boussard wrote:

Bonjour Je suis arrivée aux emmanchures du dos, doit - on reprendre les 3 m point mousse de chaque côté, même question pour l'encolure ? En vous remerciant pour votre aide.

08.06.2022 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boussard, après les emmanchures, on ne tricote pas de mailles au point mousse sur le côté (sauf si vous préférez ce type de maille lisière), pour l'encolure, vous continuerez à tricoter 2 mailles point mousse côté encolure. Bon tricot!

09.06.2022 - 08:25

country flag Boussard wrote:

Bonjour Au début du dos, juste après avoir fait 2 côtes au point mousse, il faut continuer 2m point mousse, jersey.... cela veut dire un rang endroit? Faut il continuer ainsi tout le dos? Merci pour votre aide.

12.05.2022 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boussard, effectivement, sur l'endroit, vous tricoterez toutes les mailles à l'endroit, mais sur l'envers tricotez: 2 m endroit (= 2 m point mousse), à l'envers jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m (= jersey) et terminez par 2 m endroit (= 2 m point mousse). Vous ajouterez ensuite 1 m point mousse (= 3 m point mousse de chaque côté), puis vous continuerez avec juste 1 m lisière au point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

13.05.2022 - 08:09

country flag Inge-Lise Laursen wrote:

Jeg er netop blevet færdig med trøjen og jeg har en masse garn i overskud. . Jeg har strikket i str XL det originale garn og har 8 hele nøgler for meget: 3 * Bomull-lin fv. 03, 2*Bomull-lin fv.11, 2*Paris fv 1 og 1*Paris fv 38 I bør justere i opskriften .

11.08.2021 - 16:53

country flag Ingrid Bahnsen wrote:

De 2 garnfarver i Bomull-Lin farve 03 Lys beige og farve 11 Beige er næsten identiske - men på fotoet i opskriften er der ret stor forskel i nuancen? Det påvirker resultatet, da de 2 nuancer strikkes i brede striber efter hinanden. Er der skrevet forkert i opskriften? Mvh Ingrid

18.07.2021 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingrid, der kan være sket en justering i årenes løb. Men vælg de 2 farver i DROPS Bomull-Lin som passer bedst til din smag og dit arbejde :)

04.08.2021 - 11:13

country flag Maike Novobilsky wrote:

Hallo, ich habe mir die Wolle für den schönen Pullover bestellt. Leider hat Bomull-Lin Nr. 3 (hellbeige) und Nr. 11 (beige) exakt den selben Farbton, Nr. 11 fühlt sich nur etwas härter an. Ich habe schon beide Farbtöne hintereinander verstrickt und man sieht wirklich überhaupt keinen Unterschied. Welche Wolle kann ich stattdessen nehmen? Ist dies von der Charge abhängig? Nr. 11 ist viel, viel heller als auf der Abbildung. Vielen Dank

07.04.2021 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Novobilsky, am besten wenden Sie sich direkt an Ihrem DROPS Händler, wo Sie das Garn bestellt haben, dort wird man Ihnen am besten weiterhilfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.04.2021 - 13:37

country flag Helen wrote:

Det står att tröjan stickas i både rätstickning och slätstickning med aviga ut! Vilket gäller?

26.07.2020 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helen, du börjar med 4 varv rätst, sedan slätst med kantmaskor i rätst. Lycka till :)

27.07.2020 - 15:53

country flag Rianne Wiesje Kompier Krijnen wrote:

Als ik deze trui in 1 kleur, dus effen zou willen breien, hoeveel garen heb ik dan nodig?

17.05.2018 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Rianne, Bij veel nieuwere patronen staat dit al aangegeven, maar bij dit patroon helaas niet. Je kunt je verkooppunt vragen of je overgebleven bollen in kunt leveren. Je breit dan eerst het achterpand en een mouw en aan de hand daarvan kun je uitrekenen hoeveel je in totaal nodig hebt.

21.05.2018 - 11:16

country flag Elaine Hébert wrote:

J’ai fait ce chandail avec de la laine. Mon échantillon respectait celui du patron. J’aimerais savoir quoi faire pour que la bordure inférieur en côtes mousses cesse de roulé

29.04.2018 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hébert, vous pouvez bloquer votre pull: lavez-le en respectant les consignes de l'étiquette + les généralités ici. Faites le sécher bien à plat, en épinglant le bas si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

30.04.2018 - 11:02

country flag Marja wrote:

Zijn de patroonafmetingen met boordjes al in begrepen? Of moet je bijvoorbeeld voor de halsafmeting nog bijtellen indien ik geen boordje wens te breien? Dank voor uw antwoord. Groeten

01.03.2018 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marja, De afmetingen in de tekening onderaan zijn altijd inclusief, boordjes, halsranden, manchetten, etc.

04.03.2018 - 17:18