DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Irish Sea Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with stripes in 1 strand “Alpaca” and 1 strand “Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-16
DROPS design: Pattern no z-738
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color no 100, off white
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color no 7120, light gray green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50-75-75-75-75-100 g color no 01, off white
50-75-75-75-75-100 g color no 06, light gray green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 34 rows with 1 strand of each quality held tog in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work stripes in 1 strand “Alpaca” and 1 strand ”Kid-Silk” as follows:
BACK PIECE:
Work in garter st with light gray green until piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm / 11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''. Then work * 1 ridge off white and 1 ridge light gray green *, repeat from *-* for 16-16-17-17-18-18 cm / 6¼''-6¼''-6¾''-6¾''-7''-7'' (make sure to avoid a tight yarn at color change). Work in garter st with off white until piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' (= mid on top of shoulder).
FRONT PIECE:
Continue in garter st with off white until piece measures 19-20-20-21-21-22 cm / 7½"-8"-8"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4". Then work * 1 ridge light gray green and 1 ridge off white *, repeat from *-* for 16-16-17-17-18-18 cm / 6¼''-6¼''-6¾''-6¾''-7''-7'' (make sure to avoid a tight yarn at color change). Work in garter st with off white until piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc inside 1 edge st. Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid hole.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Measure from neck edge and dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16 and 23 cm
SIZE M: 2, 9, 16 and 23 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18 and 26 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18 and 26 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 11, 20 and 29 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20 and 29 cm
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth in one over shoulders and down on the other side. Work entire jacket in 1 strand “Alpaca” and 1 strand ”Kid-Silk”.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 70-77-83-94-101-114 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 with 1 strand light gray green Kid-Silk and 1 strand light gray green Alpaca. Work in GARTER ST and STRIPES - see explanation above. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st in each side of piece - READ DECREASE TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Repeat dec every 6-5-5-5-5-5 cm / 2½"-2"-2"-2"-2"-2" 3-4-4-4-4-4 more times = 62-67-73-84-91-104 sts. When piece measures 34-34-35-35-36-36 cm / 13½"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4", inc 1 st in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc when piece measures 39-39-41-41-43-43 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-16"-16"-17"-17" = 66-71-77-88-95-108 sts. Continue in garter st and with stripes. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'' in total, inc 1 st in each side of piece = 68-73-79-90-97-110 sts. Repeat inc on every row from RS 7 more times = 82-87-93-104-111-124 sts. Then cast on new sts in each side for sleeves at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 14-14-13-12-11-9 sts 2 times and 15-14-14-12-13-11 sts 1 time = 168-171-173-176-181-182 sts.

When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for neck as follows: Adjust so that next row is from WS, work the first 71-72-73-74-76-76 sts (= left shoulder/sleeve) and slip these on a stitch holder, bind off the next 26-27-27-28-29-30 sts for neck and work the rest of row (= 71-72-73-74-76-76 sts on right shoulder/sleeve).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue to dec 1 st at the end of next row from RS = 70-71-72-73-75-75 sts. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'', insert a marker in piece (= mid on top of shoulder). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with garter st and stripes as before. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from marker mid on top of shoulder (adjust so that next row is from RS) inc 1 st for neck at the end of every 4th row (i.e. inc inside 1 edge st at the end of row from RS) as follows: Inc 1 st 2 times and then every other row: 1 st 17-18-18-18-19-19 times. After last neck inc dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½'', bind off sts for sleeve at the beg of every row from RS as follows: bind off 15-14-14-12-13-11 sts 1 times and 14-14-13-12-11-9 sts 2 times = 46-49-52-57-61-67 sts. On beg of next row from RS dec 1 st in the side, repeat the same dec on every row from RS 7 more times = 38-41-44-49-53-59 sts. Make sure to work stripes on the same place on front piece as on back piece. Then dec 1 st in the side (i.e. at the beg of row from RS) when piece measures 24-26-26-28-28-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11"-11 3/4" and 29-31-32-34-35-37 cm / 11½"-12 1/4"-12½"-13½"-13 3/4"-14½" = 36-39-42-47-51-57 sts. When piece measures 35-35-37-39-41-43 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14½"-15 1/4"-16"-17", inc 1 st in the side, repeat inc every 6-5-5-5-5-5 cm / 2 3/4"-2"-2"-2"-2"-2" 3-4-4-4-4-4 more times = 40-44-47-52-56-62 sts on needle. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' from marker mid on top of shoulder, loosely bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 71-72-73-74-76-76 sts. Continue to dec 1 st at the beg of next row from RS (from neck) = 70-71-72-73-75-75 sts. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'', insert a marker in piece (= mid on top of shoulder). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with garter st and stripes as before.

When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from marker mid on top of shoulder (adjust so that next row is from RS) inc 1 st for neck at the beg of every 4th row (i.e. inc inside 1 edge st at the beg of row from RS) as follows: Inc 1 st 2 times and then every other row: 1 st 17-18-18-18-19-19 times AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½'', bind off sts for sleeve at the beg of every row from WS as follows: bind off 15-14-14-12-13-11 sts 1 times and 14-14-13-12-11-9 sts 2 times = 46-49-52-57-61-67 sts. On next row from RS dec 1 st at end of row in the side, repeat the same dec on every row from RS 7 more times = 38-41-44-49-53-59 sts. Make sure to work stripes on the same place on front piece as on back piece. Then dec 1 st in the side when piece measures 24-26-26-28-28-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11"-11 3/4" and 29-31-32-34-35-37 cm / 11½"-12 1/4"-12½"-13½"-13 3/4"-14½" = 36-39-42-47-51-57 sts. When piece measures 35-35-37-39-41-43 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14½"-15 1/4"-16"-17", inc 1 st in the side. Repeat inc every 6-5-5-5-5-5 cm / 2 3/4"-2"-2"-2"-2"-2" 3-4-4-4-4-4 more times = 40-44-47-52-56-62 sts. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' from marker mid on top of shoulder, loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams and side seams in one in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Ruth McDowell wrote:

I’ve reached the point in the back where I increase for the sleeves but I can’t understand that if I add stitches (12) at the end of 2 rows and then 12 at the end of next row I should only have140 stitches and not the 176 it says in the pattern. Please explain

18.03.2024 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, supposing from the 12 stitches that we are talking about size XL, the pattern says that you should "at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 14-14-13-12-11-9 sts 2 times and 15-14-14-12-13-11 sts 1 time = 168-171-173-176-181-182 sts. ", so you actually cast on that 12 stitches 6 times in total (3 times each side), which is 72 stitches increased in total, adding that to the 104 you already had, the result is 176. I hope that helps. Happy Knitting!

18.03.2024 - 20:37

country flag Carolyn Schwartz wrote:

Can you tell me what measurement units the schematic measures are using? cm or inches? I am trying to figure out what size to make. Thank you.

14.08.2023 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carolyn Schwartz! It uses centimetres. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 - 23:04

country flag Marion Schuhmann-Ränsch wrote:

Ist es möglich, daß Model nur mit Alpaka-Wolle zu stricken? Warum haben Sie noch Kid Silk mit dazu genommen.? Ich würde gern einfädig stricken

25.02.2018 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schuhmann-Ränsch, Kid-Silk bringt etwas Mohair & Seide zum Modell, aber gerne können Sie 2 Fäden Alpaca anstatt benutzen, mehr über Garnalternativen lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.02.2018 - 09:20

country flag Laura wrote:

Per realizzare questo modello con il cotone Paris quanto filato occorre?

05.03.2016 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura, questo modello è realizzato con due filati del gruppo A o 1 del gruppo C. Ad esempio per la taglia S servono 300 g totali di Alpaca (167 m x 6 gom = 1002 m) e 100 g di Kid-Silk (200 m x 4 gom = 800 m), per cui facendo riferimento ad Alpaca servono circa 14 gomitoli di Paris (1000/75 = 13.3 gomitoli) Può leggere anche questa lezione sulla sostituzione dei filati. Buon lavoro!

06.03.2016 - 09:51

country flag Ellen wrote:

Bitte berichtigen Sie die Anleitung: Statt "Rückenteil" als Anleitungsüberschrift steht dort "Vorderteil" ...

06.02.2016 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, Sie haben Recht, das wird gleich korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis!

06.02.2016 - 13:22

country flag Anidy29 wrote:

J'adore !!!

16.01.2016 - 09:27

country flag Katharina wrote:

Diese Jacke hat das Zeug zum "Allrounder" - und kann in vielen Farben und Wollarten ganz unterschiedlich wirken. Ein großartiges Modell - ich freue mich darauf!

12.12.2015 - 11:41