DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fleur du Népal

DROPS jacket knitted in a circle in ”Nepal” with leaf pattern. Size S to XXXL

DROPS 126-1
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-014
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL
To fit chest: 84/90 - 100 - 110/120 - 130 cm/ 33"/35½" - 40" - 44"/47" - 51"

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
1000-1100-1250-1350 g color no 4311, gray/purple.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES, DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 5 mm /US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. When working garter st approx 34 rows = 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – for buttonhole loops.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON no 536: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 - diagrams show 1 pattern repeat from RS.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

INCREASING TIP (applies to after M.1 and M.2):
Inc 1 st by each marker per inc (i.e. inc 10 sts per round) – inc alternately to the left and to the right of all markers by making 1 YO – on next round work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round as a circle from mid back.
Cast on 10 sts with Nepal and distribute them on 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid piece towards the neck. Continue as follows in the round: M.1, M.2, M.2, M.2 and M.1 (= a total of 5 repeats across the round). Change to circular needle as you inc sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When M.1/M.2 is complete piece measures approx 19 cm / 7½'' from the middle and there are 210 sts on needle. Now insert a marker in each of the 5 stockinette sts in the middle of pattern repeat (the inc were made each side of this st), and a marker in st mid between the first 5 markers (= a total of 10 markers).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN: Continue in GARTER ST – see above – at the same time on first round after M.1/M.2 inc by all markers - SEE INCREASING TIP - and repeat the inc on every 4th round as you go along.
ARMHOLE: At the same time after 2-6-10-14 rows garter st (= 220-230-240-250 sts on needle) work next round as follows (this is a round without inc): Work 25-27-29-31 sts, bind off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole), work 106-108-108-108 sts, bind off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole) and work 25-27-29-31 sts. On next round cast on 32-34-37-40 new sts over each armhole.
Continue and inc as before until there is a total of 480-520-560-600 sts on needle – piece now measures approx 50-55-60-65 cm / 19½"-21½"-23½"-25½"'' from the middle, finish after a P round and bind off LOOSELY with K sts.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 45-47-49-51 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal, K 6 rows (first row = WS). Continue as follows (first row = WS): 1 edge st, 19-20-21-22 sts in reverse stockinette st , M.3, 19-20-21-22 sts in reverse stockinette st and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. After M.3 continue in reverse stockinette st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm / 8'' inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 4-3.5-3-2.5 cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8'' a total of 8-9-11-13 times = 61-65-71-77 sts. When piece measures 52 cm / 20½'' for all sizes bind off for sleeve cap at beg at beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, then 2 sts each side until piece measures approx 60 cm / 23½''. Bind off remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves placing the middle of sleeve cap where the distance between armholes is shortest (i.e. where the first st was bind off on the first armhole and the last st was bind off on the other sleeve) and with the sleeve seams where the distance between the armholes is longest (i.e. the opposite side).

BUTTONS:
Place the jacket as shown in chart with RS facing up. Measure approx 5 cm / 2'' down from the bottom of armhole on the left side of piece and then 10 cm / 4'' out in a 90 degree angle and sew 1 button on here from RS – see the marking. Sew on the other button on the other side in the same position, but sew it on from WS.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Crochet 1 buttonhole loop with hook size 4 mm / G/6 in bind off row each side to fit the buttons (see chart). 1 LOOP = 1 sc in bind off row on jacket, ch 5, skip approx 1 cm / 3/8'' and fasten with 1 sc in bind off row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = 1 YO. BODY PIECE: On next round P YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. SLEEVE: On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
symbols = slip1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = P2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (217)

country flag Katarzyna wrote:

Ile motków potrzeba tylko na rekawy w rozmiarze XL/XXL ?

13.05.2021 - 01:55

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, niestety nie potrafię odpowiedzieć na twoje pytanie. Czy chcesz zrobić kamizelkę? W takim razie możesz wyszukać wzory na kamizelki dla tej włóczki i tak porównać ilość potrzebnej włóczki? Pozdrawiamy!

13.05.2021 - 12:58

country flag Regina wrote:

Hallo, erst einmal vielen Dank für die bisherige Hilfe. Die Ärmel sind ganz schnell fertig geworden und nun habe ich auch schon das Muster (5 Blätter) vom Vorder und Rückenteil fertig. Jetzt wird ja in Krausrippe (1 Runde re, 1 Runde li,) weitergestrickt. Die Aufnahme bei den 10 markierten Maschen ist die immer rechts und links der markierten Masche. Oder nur auf der rechten Seite und nach 4 Runden dann auf der linke Seite? So immer im Wechsel?

24.07.2019 - 09:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regina, letzteres ist zutreffend - Sie nehmen pro Zunahmerunde 10 Maschen zu, d.h. 1 Masche an jedem Markierer (es sind ja 10 Markierer vorhanden). In der ersten Zunahmerunde erfolgt die Zunahme auf der rechten Seite jedes Markierers, in der nächsten Zunahmerunde auf der linken Seite jedes Markierers usw. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

24.07.2019 - 17:11

country flag Regina wrote:

Versuche seit über 2 Jahren diese herrliche Jacke zu stricken, aber leider ohne Erfolg. Dachte fang mit den Ärmeln an, die sehen einfach aus, aber nichts war. Um Ihren Hinweis von 06.02.2017 noch einmal aufzugreifen. Ich beginne mit der Rückreihe rechts gestrickt) von links nach rechts und dann die Hinreihe (links gestrickt) von rechts nach links. Wenn ich M3 fertig habe sieht es aber nicht so aus wie auf dem Bild, wo das Muster auf der Vorderseite rechts gestrickt aussieht. Was ist falsch?

25.06.2019 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regina, für die Ärmel stricken Sie zuerst 6 Reihen rechts (= 3 Krausrippen), dann stricken Sie glatt lilnks mit M.3 in der Mitte, das Blatt in M.3 (= die leere Kästchen) sind glatt rechts gestrickt, nur die 2 (1. Mitte vom Blatt) dann die 1 ersten und letzten Maschen sind glatt links - gestrickt. hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.06.2019 - 06:22

country flag Ann Kristin Aaker wrote:

Kan jeg få et bilde av hvordan mønsteret M3 på armen blir i fht resten?

20.06.2018 - 19:10

Orsi wrote:

I am finished with the body piece, and starting with the sleeves. I have a question regarding M3... The first row of M3 is 5 stitches. Row nr.2 ends up 5 stitches again with decreasing 2 and 2 YO. Yet, the third row is 7 stitches. Should I include stitches from the reverse stocking on the sides? Or is there something I'm missing?

10.06.2018 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Orsi, that's because you will work always more sts in the pattern, ie on row 3 in 1st size for example you will work: 1 edge st, P 18, M.3 (= P2,K3, P2), P18, 1 edge st. Happy knitting!

11.06.2018 - 09:39

country flag Samantha wrote:

I’ve finished the M1 & M2 sections and now am working in garter to the sleeves. I have 10 markets in my round. When it says ‘increase by all markers’ does that mean increase ONE by each marker or ONE each side of markers? (Ex: increase 10 each increase round or 20?)

14.02.2018 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Samantha, It means increase 1 stitch by each marker by making 1 YO. Alternate each increase by making the YO first before and then after the markers. Work into the back loop of the YOs on the next round to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

15.02.2018 - 06:28

country flag Gisela wrote:

Hallo, habe die Jacke nun fertig gestrickt. Sieht gut aus! Nur mit den Maßangeben für die Knöpfe komme ich leider nicht zurecht. Mit den 5 cm nach unten ist klar - nur wieviel cm im rechten Winkel? Kann ich ggf. auch noch nachträglich für einen schönen Abschluss eine Knopfleiste anbringen? Wenn ja, wie sind da ca. die Maße? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

21.11.2017 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gisela, messen Sie 5 cm unter den Armloch, dann 10 cm links (am linken Vorderteil) messen - siehe auch Stern in der Maßskizze. Als Knopfleiste wird dann ein Schlaufe gehäkelt, siehe SCHLAUFEN. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

21.11.2017 - 08:38

country flag Carole Stevenson wrote:

Hi, I'm finishing up the sleeves but I need to reduce the length of the sleeves as the adult is under 5 ft (60cm would be far too long). Can you tell me approx how many sts I should be left with to cast off? I.e. When reducing from 61sts in the 8cm from 52cm to 60cm? Thanks, Carole

31.08.2017 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carole, we unfortunately are not able to adjust every pattern to each individual request. For any further personnal assistance you are welcome to contact the store where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

01.09.2017 - 09:07

Debora wrote:

Estoy muy enojada por qué ya tejí la espalda y el delantero derecho tal como dice y no están bien las instrucciones por qué no lo arreglan o lo quitan

25.03.2017 - 03:26

country flag Regina wrote:

Ich bin es schon wieder. Ärmel werden in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Im M.3 ist somit nur die vordere Reihe, links gestrickt, angezeigt, die hintere Reihe wird gestrickt wie die Maschen erscheinen, also meistens rechts. Und im M.1 und M.2 wird ja in Runden gestrickt und dort ist jede Runde angezeigt. Ist das richtig so? Vielen Dank. Regina

04.02.2017 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regina, Alle Reihen sind im Diagramme gezeigt, im M.3 beginnen Sie mit 1 Rückreihe: von links nach rechts lesen, dann von der Vorderseite (= Hinreihen) rechts nach links stricken. Mehr über Diagramme lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.02.2017 - 09:28