My beringed and I recently made a huge move from the greater New York City area to southeastern Vermont, and of course one of the first things I did was stop at the local yarn shop to introduce myself, find out about knitting groups and, well, buy yarn.

The one I ended up falling in love with (that I actually bought) was James C. Brett’s Marble Chunky.  It’s a two-tone strand variegated yarn where the strands shift colors independently of each other, creating this great tweedy effect.  It comes in so many great colors, but the one I eventually decided that I absolutely had to have was color 53 – Moonstone; it runs through this beautiful creams, greys, and pastel blues and pinks, it reminds me of an old antique sweater from the ’20s.  Plus the ball cost me $15 for 340 yards, how could I resist?

In searching for a pattern to use it with, I found the Compromise Cowl on Ravelry by Rauni Pakkala, which is absolutely beautiful, and I adore the end result.  But I ended up 10 rows short of the end by the time I ran out of yarn.

So back to the yarn shop to buy another 340 yard ball of yarn to finish up 10 rows, and I have all this yarn leftover!

Time to make some matching fingerless gloves!  And since I’d just picked up a new knitting motif book, I figured why not finally take a foray into making a real pattern on my own?  Thus the Moose River Valley Fingerless Gloves were born!

… and I still have about 100 yards left over.

Please feel free to comment, ask questions, add corrections/adjustments, share pictures of your finished projects!

-Poppy

Moose River Valley Fingerless Gloves

These gloves are ideal for people with larger arms.  The underside of the gloves are just straight stockinette stitch and the decreases are all built into that, so you can adjust them to your own arms.  The pattern the way I wrote it makes gloves that are snug but comfortable on arms that are 13″ circumference at their widest, 7″ at the narrowest, and 8″ at the palm.

They’re also elbow-length, but if you’d rather them shorter or longer, simply add or subtract a pattern repeat.

One more possible personalization is that while I knitted them originally with a thumb, it’s an optional addition at the end of the pattern.  So if you don’t like doing little finicky finger-tubes (I know I don’t), you can easily skip it.

Materials

Yarn: ~250 yds, chunky
Needles: US 8 (5 mm) DPNs
Other Materials: Cable needle
Gauge: 4 st to 1 inch

Abbreviations

st: stitch
k: Knit
p: purl
yo: yarn over
sl: slip stitch
psso: pass slipped stitch over
k2tog: knit 2 together
cab bk: slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle
cab fr: slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle
p2tog: purl 2 tog
stk sec: stockinette section

The Arm

Cast on 40 st and join in the round.

Work k1, p1 rib for 5 rows.

The Pattern

The first glove we’re working is the left glove.  The stockinette section goes at the end of the round here.  My section started out at 18 st and decreased to 10 st; it’s important to know how many st are in your section if you change that because for the right glove, you’re going to put the stockinette section at the beginning of the round.

Row 1: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k8, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k to end.

Row 2: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Row 3: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, cab bk, cab fr, p1, k2, yo, ssk, p2, k to end.

Row 4: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Row 5: p2, cab fr, p1, k8, p1, cab fr, p2, k to end.

Row 6: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Row 7: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, cab bk, cab fr, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k to end.

Row 8: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Row 9: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k8, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k to end.

Row 10: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Row 11: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, cab bk, cab fr, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k to end.

Row 12: p2, k2tog, yo, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, k to end.

Repeat rows 1-12 3 more times (4 pattern repeats total).

The Wrist

Continue working 5th repeat, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the stockinette section on rows 3, 6, 9, and 12, going from 18 knit stitches to 10, 32 st total.

If you don’t want to taper the glove or you have a more dramatic taper to your arm, feel free to leave out or alter this step, but still continue with the 5th pattern repeat.

The Thumb Hole

If you plan on adding a thumb, work the pattern straight.  If not, slip the first or last stitch of each worked-flat row for a neat edge.

Work Row 1 of pattern in the round.

Work Rows 2-9 work flat as below:

Row 2: p stk sec, k2, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, p8, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k2

Row 3: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, cab bk, cab fr, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k stk sec

Row 4: p stk sec, k2, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, p8, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k2

Row 5: p2, cab fr, p1, k8, p1, cab fr, p2, k stk sec

Row 6: p stk sec, k2, p2, yo, p2tog, k1, p8, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k2

Row 7: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, cab bk, cab fr, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k stk sec

Row 8: p stk sec, p2, k2, yo, p2tog, k1, p8, k1, p2, yo, p2tog, k2

Row 9: p2, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p1, k8, p1, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, p2, k stk sec

Rows 10-12 rejoin in the round and work as originally written.

Work 5 rows k1, p1 rib.

Bind off.  Weave in ends

Optional Thumb Tube

Pick up 14 st (7 st on each side of the hole).

Work stockinette stitch for 10 rows (or desired length).

Bind off.  Weave in ends.

For Right Glove

Work the stockinette section at the beginning of the round instead of the end.

(This pattern is for personal use only.  Please contact the designer for permission to sell.)