DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 123-1
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-513
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-112-134 cm / 35½"-44"-52 3/4"
Full length: 64-69-74 cm / 25 1/4"-27 1/8"-29 1/8"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
450-550-650 g color no 2020m, eco light camel mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 3 mm/ US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/hole, no 521: 7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows after front band + K3 + P3: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before P3 + K3 + front band: K2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd and 4th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on next row. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44 cm / 3 1/8",5½",8",10¼",12½",15",17¼".
SIZE L/XL: 10, 16, 22, 28, 34, 40, 46 cm / 4",6¼",8¾",11",13 3/8",15¾",18".
SIZE XXL/XXXL: 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43, 50 cm / 3 1/8",6",8¾",11 3/8",14 1/4",17",19¾".
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 699-915-1131 sts (includes 6 front band sts each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work front bands in GARTER ST – see above – throughout. P 1 row from WS with 6 front band sts each side and continue in rib as follows (from RS): 6 front band sts, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 6 front band sts. Continue like this until piece measures approx 2-3-4 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½". Now continue as follows (from RS): 6 front band sts, 12 sts in rib as before, * M.1, 39 sts in rib as before *, repeat from *-* and finish with M.1, 12 sts in rib as before and 6 front band sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 543-711-879 sts on needle.
Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½". Now continue as follows (from RS): 6 front band sts, 6 sts in rib as before, * M.1, 27 sts in rib as before *, repeat from *-* and finish with M.1, 6 sts rib as before and 6 front band sts. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see above.
After M.1 there are 387-507-627 sts on needle. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 12-13-14 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½". Now continue as follows (from RS): 6 front band sts, * M.1, 15 sts in rib as before *, repeat from *-* and finish with M.1 and 6 front band sts. After M.1 there are 231-303-375 sts on needle. Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures approx 17-18-19 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½". On next row from RS inc 1 st in each P-section by making 1 YO after P3 = 267-351-435 sts. On next row (from WS) work all YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
Continue with K over K and P over P until piece measures 24-26-28 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11". On next row from RS dec 1 st in each P-section by P tog the last 2 P sts = 231-303-375 sts. Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P. Now insert a marker in the 62nd-80th-98th st from each side (back piece = 107-143-179 sts).
Continue as follows (from RS):
6 front band sts, K3, P3, stockinette st on the next 39-57-75 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-8-13 sts evenly, P3, K3, P3, K3 (marker sits in the middle of these sts), P3, K3, P3, stockinette st on the next 87-123-159 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-15-25 sts evenly, P3, K3, P3, K3 (marker sits in the middle of these sts), P3, K3, P3, stockinette st on the next 39-57-75 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-8-13 sts evenly, P3, K3 and 6 front band sts.
There are now 217-272-324 sts on needle. Continue with K over K, P over P and stockinette st over stockinette st, and front bands as before. When piece measures 27-29-31 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4" inc 1 st before and after rib-section (= 21 sts) each side (= 4 inc). Inc by making 1 YO. On next row work YO into back of loop and continue to work inc sts in stockinette st. Repeat the inc on every 6 cm / 2 3/8'' a total of 3 times = 229-284-336 sts. Continue as before until piece measures 44-47-50 cm / 17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4". Now bind off 9 sts each side (i.e. st with markers + 4 sts each side of marker) for armhole and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 99-126-152 sts. Continue back and forth on needle with K over K, P over P and stockinette st over stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beg of every row each side: 2 sts 2-4-8 times and 1 st 2-9-11 times = 87-92-98 sts. Now continue in stockinette st on all sts. When piece measures 62-67-72 cm / 24 3/8"-26 3/8"-28 3/8" bind off the middle 19-24-30 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Continue in stockinette st and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 1 st 2 times = 32 sts left on shoulder. Piece measures approx 64-69-74 cm / 25 1/4"-27 1/8"-29 1/8". Bind off remaining sts.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 56-70-83 sts. Continue back and forth on needle with K over K, P over P and stockinette st over stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-52 cm / 18"-19"-20½" work 2 rows back and forth on the 6 front band sts only. Now dec for neck and inc for collar as follows: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside 6 front band sts, on next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole, and then include inc sts in garter st on front band. Dec 1 st inside front band + K3/P3 - See DECREASING TIP! Inc 1 st and dec 1 st on approx every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 12-15-18 times = 18-21-24 front band sts.
When piece measures 64-69-74 cm / 25 1/4"-27 1/8"-29 1/8" bind off 32 sts for shoulder, work the 18-21-24 front band sts and now continue with collar as follows (Row 1 = from RS): * Work back and forth on 8-10-12 sts only, work back and forth on all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 6-7-8 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" (measured where shortest). Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round. Cast on 91-103-103 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. K 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue as follows: P2, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and P2. Continue like this until piece measures 2-3-4 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½". Now continue as follows: 17-23-23 stockinette sts, rib as before on the next 21 sts, M.1, rib as before on the next 21 sts and 17-23-23 stockinette sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 3 cm / 1 1/8'' inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st each side of marker). Repeat the inc on every 2.5-2-1.5 cm / 1"-3/4"-½" a total of 18-19-25 times (work inc sts in stockinette st). After M.1 continue with K over K, P over P and stockinette st over stockinette st until piece measures 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½".
Now continue as follows: stockinette st to the rib, 15 sts in rib as before, M.1, 15 sts in rib as before and stockinette st to the end of round. After M.1 continue with K over K, P over P and stockinette st over stockinette st until piece measures 12-13-14 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½". Now continue as follows: stockinette st to the rib, 9 sts in rib, M.1, 9 sts in rib and stockinette st to the end of round. After M.1 continue with stockinette st each side and 21 sts in rib mid upper sleeve.
When all inc and dec are complete there are 91-105-117 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures 48-46-44 cm / 19"-18"-17 1/4" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders). Now bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 4 sts each side of marker) and continue back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 2 sts 4-5-5 times and 1 st 4-8-13 times, then 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 56-57-58 cm / 22"-22½"-22 3/4". Now bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-59 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-23 1/4".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew tog collar mid back and sew to neck on back piece. Sew on buttons.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece. K tog first st from cable needle in front of piece, first st from needle and first st from cable needle behind piece. K tog 2nd st from cable needle in front of piece, 2nd st from needle and 2nd st from cable needle behind piece. K tog 3rd st from cable needle in front of piece, 3rd st from needle and 3rd st from cable needle behind piece. 6 sts have been dec.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Jopie wrote:

Bij 699 st , eindig ik met eerste nld patroon nooit op M1-12 st-6 voorbies. Op 680-689 st is de laatste M1. Eén na laatste M1 is op 633-641 st. Hoe dan?

11.01.2024 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jopie,

Je herhaalt steeds wat tussen sterretjes staat, dus 6 voorbiessteken, 12 steken in boordsteek, herhaal steeds M1(15st)+39 st in boordsteek tot er 27 steken over zijn op de linker naald. Dan brei je M.1 nog een keer en 12 steken in boordsteek en nog eens 6 steken in ribbelsteek. Als je M1 + 39 steken in totaal 12 keer breit dan komt het precies uit.

14.01.2024 - 18:34

country flag Barbara Schmidt wrote:

Betrifft das Diagramm M1, wie stricke ich die letzten sechs Maschen zusammen. gibt es da ein Video zum ansehen ? Freundliche Grüße

17.12.2022 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, die stricken Sie gleichzeitig als man den Zopf bei dem letzten Symbol strickt, dh die ersten 3 M hinter die Arebeit legen, die nächsten 3 vor die Arbeit legen, dann stricken Sie die 1. Maschen der Nadel vor die Arbeit + die 1. Masche auf der Nadel + die 1. Masche hinter die Arbeit zusammen, und genau so mit den 2 nächsten Maschen jeder Nadel stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.12.2022 - 10:26

country flag Sab wrote:

De tous les modèles Drops que j'ai tricoté (une trentaine) c'est celui que je trouve le plus chouette. Il est bien structuré/ajusté avec des détails intéressants. Cependant j'aurais dû prendre la taille au-dessus, je l'ai fait en S/M, comme je suis S cela aurait dû bien convenir, pourtant il est légèrement serré.

05.02.2022 - 12:59

country flag Christine ROBERT wrote:

Bonjour, Je butte sur la réalisation de la 11ème ligne du diagramme M1 (diminution de 6 mailles) du modèle 123-1. Je n'arrive pas à faire ces diminutions, même en utilisant un crochet. Existe-t-il une vidéo explicative ? Ou une technique particulière ? Je vois que plusieurs personnes ont réalisé ce modèle, c'est que ça ne doit pas être impossible ! Merci de votre aide.

15.01.2022 - 15:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, tricotez ces 9 mailles ainsi: placez 3 m sur l'aiguille auxiliaire derrière l'ouvrage et les 3 m suivantes devant, essayez de placer les 3 aiguilles côte à côte ainsi: celle devant, l'aiguille avec toutes les autres mailles et celle de derrière; et tricotez maintenant ainsi: la 1ère maille de chacune de ces 3 aiguilles (= 3 mailles ensemble à l'endroit), puis tricotez ensemble la 2ème maille de ces 3 aiguilles et tricotez de la même façon la 3ème maille de ces 3 aiguilles = vous avez diminué 6 mailles et il ne reste plus que 3 mailles sur les 9 précédentes. Bon tricot!

17.01.2022 - 09:55

country flag Dianne A wrote:

Hi, enjoying but am stumped. Am up to where I have 303 stitches on needle. Up to 'inc 1 st in each P-section'. What does P-section mean, is it the pattern where I've 'M.1' and I increase above it? I have 15 pattern areas, and if so I would only have 15 stitches extra. Im supposed to have 351 stitches. where do the extra stitches come from?

08.10.2020 - 01:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dianne, A, you have now on needles: 6 front band sts, * M.1, 15 sts in rib as before *, repeat from *-*, M.1 and 6 front band sts 303 sts. The "rib as before" = K3/P3 - the P-sections are these P3 = increasing 1 st in every P section will give you rib k3/P4; happy knitting!

08.10.2020 - 11:03

country flag Anita Larsen wrote:

Jeg er begyndt på opskrift 123-1, men jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe med mønstret.... 915 masker....6 kant + 12 rib i hver side...dvs at der skal sluttes med mønster inden til. mønster er over 9 + 39 masker....... Jeg får 6 masker for meget. Min udregning.. 915 - 36 (rib+kant) - 9 (slut mønster) =870 masker :48= 18,125

15.07.2019 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita. Mønstret er over 15 masker, ikke 9 masker. Du strikker 6 stolpemasker, 12 masker vrangbord, M.1 + 39 masker vrangbord (dette strikkes 16 ganger/16 rapporter = 864 masker), strikk M.1, strikk 12 masker vrangbord og til slutt 6 stolpemasker, dette blir da 6+12+864+15+12+6 = 915 masker. God Fornøyelse!

26.08.2019 - 14:28

country flag Heidi Von Pein wrote:

Nach 27cm macht man vor und nach der Bündchenpartie jeweils einen Umschlag. Wie werden diese Umschläge in der Rückrunde gestrickt, rechts oder links? (Gehören die Zunahmen zur Bündchenpartie oder zur glatt rechts gestrickten Partie?)

18.03.2018 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Von Pein, diese Umschläge sollen verschränkt glatt gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.03.2018 - 10:29

country flag Kat wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de faire les manches de ce très beau modele, mais je les trouvent bien trop larges pour une taille S. Comment y remédier sans dénaturer le modèle? Merci!

18.02.2018 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Kat, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chaque modèle à chaque demande individuelle. N'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone, ou à un forum de tricot. Bon tricot!

19.02.2018 - 09:49

country flag Margot Jonsson wrote:

Hej visar mönstret endast räta varv. ska man då sticka 26 v om man räknar med de aviga v?

14.07.2017 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Diagrammet visar alla varv men sett från rätsidan, så det antalet varv som är i diagrammet är det antal du ska sticka. Lycka till!

14.07.2017 - 11:18

ANYA wrote:

Ten sweterek moze miec nazwe "Sweter z Bastinka"

26.03.2017 - 11:13