DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lilla Camilla

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-33
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-035
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 03, pearl gray
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color no 15, purple haze

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of the four markers - NOTE: The no of inc sts are different on front/back piece and sleeves.

Inc 2 sts in each side on front and back piece every other round (= 8 sts inc):
Inc as follows before marker:
Beg 2 st before marker and work as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, 1 YO, K 1, marker.
Inc as follows after marker:
Marker, K 1, 1 YO and work 2 sts in next st. On next round K the YO to make hole.

Inc 1 sts in each side on front and back piece or each sleeve every other round (= 4 sts inc in front/back or 4 sts in on sleeves):
Inc as follows before marker:
Beg 1 st before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 1, marker.
Inc as follows after marker:
Marker, K 1, 1 YO. On next round K the YO to make hole.

Inc 1 sts in each side on front and back piece or each sleeve every 4th round (= 4 sts inc in front/back or 4 sts in on sleeves):
Inc as follows before marker:
Round 1: Beg 1 st before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 1, marker.
Round 2: K YOs to make holes.
Round 3: Beg 2 st before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1, marker (= no sts inc).
Round 4: K YOs to make holes.

Inc as follows after marker:
Round 1: Marker, K 1, 1 YO.
Round 2: K YOs to make holes.
Round 3: Marker, K 1, 1 YO, K 2 tog (= no sts inc).
Round 4: K YOs to make holes.

INCREASE TIP (applies to inc in the sides of body):
Beg 1 sts before marker, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec mid under sleeve as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 62-62-66-74-78-78 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with pearl gray and work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 round while inc 10 sts evenly = 72-72-76 -84-88-88 sts. Switch to a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work as follows (= beg of round = mid back): 13-13-14-14-15-15 sts in stockinette st (= half back piece), insert a marker, 10-10-10-14-14-14 sts in stockinette st (= sleeve), insert a marker, 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), insert a marker, 10-10-10-14-14-14 sts in stockinette st (= sleeve), insert a marker, stockinette st over the last 13-13-14-14-15-15 sts on round (= half back piece). REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE AND READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
On next round start inc for RAGLAN – READ INCREASE TIP. Inc on each side of the 4 markers but inc differently on front/back piece and sleeves as follows:

FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Inc 2 sts in each side on front and back piece every other round 0-2-1-3-6-8 times, inc 1 st in each side on front and back piece every other round 20-21-24-24-22-22 times and inc 1 st on each side on front and back piece every 4th round 1-0-0-0-0-0 times.

SLEEVES:
Inc 1 st in each side on each sleeve every other round 16-23-25-24-22-22 times and inc 1 st in each side on each sleeve every 4th round 3-0-0-1-3-4 times.

After all inc = 232-264-280-304-324-344 sts on needle. Piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4" from shoulder (19-21-22-23-25-27 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½" from cast-on edge). Now work as follows: Work the first 34-38-40-44-49-53 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 48-56-60-64-64-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these new sts), work the next 68-76-80-88-98-106 sts (= front piece), slip the next 48-56-60-64-64-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these new sts), work the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-53 sts (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 148-164-176-192-216-236 sts. Work in stockinette st in the round with pearl gray until piece measures 3 cm / 1''. Now inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Inc every 3 cm / 1'' 9 times = 184-200-212-228-252-272 sts. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 28-28-29-30-30-30 cm / 11"-11"-11½"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4". Slip sts between 2nd and 1st marker on a stitch holder (= back piece), then work back and forth over the remaining 92-100-106-114-126-136 sts (= front piece). Switch to purple haze and work in stockinette st with 5 sts in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above. Continue like this for 7 cm / 2¾'', then work 2 ridges over all sts, bind off.

BACK PIECE:
Slip 92-100-106-114-126-136 sts from stitch holder back on to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work in stockinette st with 5 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' change to purple haze, continue with stockinette st and garter st for 7 cm / 2¾''. Then work 2 ridges over all sts, bind off.

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on a short circular needle/ double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and cast in addition on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts under sleeve = 54-62-68-72-74-78 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Worked in stockinette st in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3½-2½-2-2-2-1½ cm / 1 1/4''-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 10-13-15-16-17-18 times. After all dec are done, 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts remain on round. When sleeve measures 44-43-43-43-41-40 cm / 17 1/4"-17"-17"-17"-16"-15 3/4", switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges and LOOSELY bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 45-44-44-44-42-41 cm / 17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-16½"-16" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke).
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Karin wrote:

På sidan 2 finns övningstips för raglan. Gör man hela den beskrivningen i en följd?

27.09.2023 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, ökningstipsen beskriver HUR du ökar till raglan. Följ mönstret från där det står OK och när du kommer til raglan, hoppar du upp och läser hur du ökar :)

05.10.2023 - 10:14

country flag Anna wrote:

Dzień dobry, czy nie ma pomyłki na początku opisu? Wydaje mi się, że 62 oczka to bardzo mało. Jeżeli 17 oczek daje 10 cm, to 62 oczka da ok. 36 cm, tj. mniej więcej obwód szyi. O ile dobrze widzę, to ten sweter jest wkładany przez głowę i ma dużo większy dekolt. Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź.

06.05.2019 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Anno! Na górze przerabiasz ściegiem francuskim, jest on bardziej rozciągliwy niż np. dżersej. Po pierwsze nabierz luźno i oczka, a po drugie przerabiaj dosyć luźno ściegiem francuskim przy dekolcie. Zawsze możesz też wykonać dekolt na nieco większych drutach. Powodzenia!

06.05.2019 - 18:01

country flag Diana Blakeley wrote:

The yardage amount for this pattern seem to way off. 400g of the main and 50 g of the contrast????? Also what are the finished measurements for this pattern? Thank you for the help.

01.05.2019 - 02:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diana, there are no mistakes in the yarn amount. Air is 150 m for each skein, so the total amount required for the main colour is 1200 m and for the contrast colour is 150 m. Moreover, you can find the sketch with the finished measurements scrolling down the pattern page. Happy knitting!

01.05.2019 - 09:44

country flag Lana Miu wrote:

I just read some other Raglan sweater instructions, I see I DO NOT join the circle at 66 sts. I re-read your pattern, but not clear as to when I join the round and start knitting in the round, please help, thanks

25.02.2019 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Miu, jumper is worked in the round top down, so that yoke will be also worked in the round: cast on the sts for yoke and join to work 1 ridge in garter stitch in the round and continue in the round. For the bottom edge of the jumper, you will then work front and back piece separately back and forth for vents. Happy knitting!

26.02.2019 - 10:43

country flag Lana Miu wrote:

Thank you for writing back and try to explain. I am sorry I am still needing more explanation. According to the instructions, I would cast on 66 stitches in the round, I am not able to locate the 12CM mentioned in your reply. I can see the 3-4CM at the top of the diagram, that would mean 17cm + 17cm + 4cm + 4cm total 52cm which is still small to get through the head and much different than the picture closer to a boat neckline, I am wondering if I am not understanding the instructions. Help!

25.02.2019 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miu, the 3-4 cm at the top of the pattern are for shoulder, these are the sts from neck that are counted for shoulders on each side, ie front and back piece so that you have 6 cm on each shoulder. Make sure your tension is right and use larger needles to cast on if required so that the neck is not too tight, the pattern is right and has already been worked successfully several times. In this pattern, there is no elevation on back piece, ie both neck on front and back piece will be the same (chart is standard). Happy knitting!

26.02.2019 - 10:20

country flag Lana Miu wrote:

I have a question regarding the neck size, according to the diagram, at 17 CM double that is 34 CM which seems extremely small, a typical head is closer to 60 CM. How does one put on the sweater? Please help. BY the way, I checked the gauge, and cast on the number of stitch for a large, in the round, 66 sts. I was not able to get it over my heard.

24.02.2019 - 06:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Miu, the 17 cm is matching the width of neck seen from RS (from side to side), you should have approximately 17 cm for neck + 17 for front + 12 cm for each shoulder (= see the 3 cm for shoulders at top of diagram). Make sure you get the correct tension, cast on the stitches with a larger needle to avoid the casting edge being too tight so that you can get the head through. Happy knitting!

25.02.2019 - 10:33

country flag Tine wrote:

Jeg sidder og læser opskriften og tænker, at den her vil jeg gerne prøve at strikke; men når jeg læser kommentarerne, så er der flere som spørger ind til antallet af masker ved start/halsen.. Der er dog ikke noget svar? Jeg kan nemlig heller ikke helt gennemskue, hvordan man får kraven på billedet med det antal masker...

02.12.2018 - 11:26

country flag Anna Maria wrote:

I started this pattern but the 62 stitches make a much narrower neckline than the picture. And I was using size 10 US needles and a larger gauge anyway. To get the shape of the photo, I ended up starting with 30 stitches in the front and back and 16 for the sleeves

29.04.2018 - 05:23

country flag Francoise wrote:

Bonjour ,je voudrai faire ce modèle lilla Camilla mais j aimerai qu au niveau du cou il soit un peu plus couvrant car sur le mannequin il me semble trop échancré \\\\r\\\\nPouvez vous m indiquez comment ?\\\\r\\\\nJe vous remercie d avance

21.04.2018 - 08:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous conseiller et vous renseigner. Bon tricot!

23.04.2018 - 08:35

country flag Irene wrote:

I would SO love to knit this jumper, would it be good for a beginner to try?

20.03.2018 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, read carefully whole pattern and if you have question please feel free to ask here. For any personnal assistance you are welcome to contact your store. Happy knitting!

20.03.2018 - 16:40