DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.05$.

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Knitted sweater with round yoke and multi-colored Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS 179-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-108
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 04, medium gray
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 16, light pink
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color 03, dark gray

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch/pattern on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

SEED STITCH:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat round 2.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly on round, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches), and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 11. In this example, increase after approx. every 11th stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides on body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 8 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

ELEVATION:
Work an elevation from mid back (= the start of the round). Start from the right side and knit 12-13-14-14-15-15 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-26-28-28-30-30 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 36-39-42-42-45-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 60-65-70-70-75-75 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl back to beginning of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. (Choose diagram for your size – applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch. All the rows in the diagram show the pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
To prevent the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 60 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 10. In this example knit every 9th and 10th stitch together.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked with circular needle, top down. The round begins mid back. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 88-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and medium gray. Knit 1 round. Now work rib as follows: * Knit 1, 3 stitches SEED STITCH – see description above *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue the rib in this way for 4 cm / 1½''. After the rib, knit 1 round where you increase 8-6-8-10-12-14 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced) = 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches. Knit 1 round. For a better fit, work a small ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Continue with 2-2-4-4-6-6 rounds stockinette stitch.
Now work PATTERN and increase stitches – read KNITTING TIP!
The first round is worked as follows: work A.1 (= 16-17-18-19-20-21 repeats of 6 stitches on the first round in diagram). Continue pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in the diagram increase evenly on round as follows – remember INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
Arrow-1: Increase 30-36-42-42-48-48 stitches evenly on round = 126-138-150-156-168-174 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 30-36-42-42-48-48 stitches evenly on round = 156-174-192-198-216-222 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 30-36-36-42-42-48 stitches evenly on round = 186-210-228-240-258-270 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 30-36-36-42-42-48 stitches evenly on round = 216-246-264-282-300-318 stitches.
Arrow-5: Increase 24-34-36-38-40-42 stitches evenly on round = 240-280-300-320-340-360 stitches.
Arrow-6: Increase 30 evenly on round in all sizes = 270-310-330-350-370-390 stitches.
Arrow-7: Increase 20-20-20-30-30-40 stitches evenly on round = 290-330-350-380-400-430 stitches.
When the piece measures 27-29-30-32-33-34 cm / 10½"-11½"-11 3/4"-12½"-13"-13½'' from the cast-on edge, divide the stitches for body and sleeves as follows (A.1 has not been finished and is continued as before): Work 41-48-50-55-59-65 stitches as before (= half the back piece), place the next 63-68-75-80-82-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 82-97-100-110-118-131 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-68-75-80-82-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 41-49-50-55-59-66 stitches as before (= half the back piece). Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 180-210-220-240-260-290 stitches. Continue with A.1 as before. When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with A.2 over A.1, BUT on the first round in A.2 increase 0-0-2-0-4-4 stitches evenly on round = 180-210-222-240-264-294 stitches. When A.2 has been completed in height, insert 1 marker thread in each side. Insert first marker thread after 45-52-55-60-66-73 stitches and second marker thread after 90-106-112-120-132-148 new stitches. There is now 45-52-55-60-66-73 stitches left on round after last marker thread.
Continue working with medium gray and stockinette stitch to finished length. On the next round increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides on body)! Increase in this way every 4-5-5-5-5-5 cm / 1½"-2"-2"-2"-2"-2'' a total of 5-4-4-4-4-3 times = 200-226-238-256-280-306 stitches. When the piece measures 23-23-24-24-25-26 cm / 9"-9"-9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4'' increase 32-34-38-40-40-42 stitches evenly on next round = 232-260-276-296-320-348 stitches. Knit 1 round (all yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib * knit 1, 3 stitches seed stitch *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue in this way until the rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can bind off with a larger needle size. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 63-68-75-80-82-84 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under the sleeve (knit up stitches with background color in the next round in the pattern) = 71-76-85-90-94-98 stitches. Continue A.1 in the round on the sleeve (pattern on the sleeve should match pattern on the yoke) – NOTE: In sizes S, M, L, XXL and XXXL the pattern will not fit the number of stitches mid under the sleeve, but to avoid too large a gap, it is recommended that you work as many stitches of A.1 as possible on the round.
When A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 over A.1 in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round adjust the number of stitches to 72-78-84-90-96-96 stitches (so that pattern A.2 will fit the number of stitches). When A.2 has been completed in height, insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue working with medium gray. On the next round decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease in this way approx. every 6th-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 6-9-9-12-12-12 times = 60-60-66-66-72-72 stitches. When the piece measures 14-12-12-10-10-9 cm / 5½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4"-4"-3½'' work pattern A.3 (= 6 stitches) in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on the rounds marked with an arrow in the diagram decrease evenly as follows – read DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
Arrow-1: Decrease 6 stitches evenly on round = 54-54-60-60-66-66 stitches.
Arrow-2: Decrease 6-6-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-48-48-54-54 stitches.
When A.3 has been completed in height, the piece measures 33-31-31-29-29-28 cm / 13"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-11½"-11½"-11'' from the separation. Continue with medium gray. Work 1 round where you increase 4-4-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 52-52-56-56-62-62 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 /3 stitches seed stitch) for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 39-37-37-35-35-34 cm / 15 1/4"-14½"-14½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13½'' from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.12.2018
Correction - SLEEVES: Work according to diagrams A.1, A.2, and A.3, Not A.1A and A.2A

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = light pink
symbols = medium grey
symbols = dark grey
symbols = increase round – see description in text
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Rosita wrote:

Buonasera, non mi è chiaro il passaggio sulla manica, Quando il lavoro misura 14-12-12-10-10-9 cm, lavorare il diagramma A.3 (= 6 maglie), ALLO STESSO TEMPO, sul giro indicato dalla freccia nel diagramma, 9cm eseguire lo schema a3, ma non è troppo presto a 9 cm? E poi le frecce x le diminuzioni sono quasi a metà del diagramma, giusto? Grazie 👋

28.02.2024 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Rosita, le misure per l'inizio del diagramma A.3 sono corrette: le diminuzioni iniziano sui primi giri del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 11:45

country flag Azza wrote:

Dans le modèle drops 179-9 Mon me demande de monté COL: Monter 88-96-100-104-108-112 mailles avec la petite aiguille circulaire 3,5 en gris moyen. Tricoter 1 tour endroit puis en côtes ainsi: *1 maille endroit, 3 mailles POINT DE RIZ – voir ci-dessus *, tricoter de *-* jusqu’à la fin du tour. Continuer en côtes ainsi pendant 4 cm. Mais je ne comprends pas je monte en côte ou au point de riz ?

12.02.2024 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aza, les côtes sont formées par le point (1 maille endroit, 3 mailles point de riz), tricotez ainsi, de (à) pendant 4 cm. Bon tricot!

13.02.2024 - 08:00

country flag Azza wrote:

Dans le modèle drops 179-9 Mon me demande de monté COL: Monter 88-96-100-104-108-112 mailles avec la petite aiguille circulaire 3,5 en gris moyen. Tricoter 1 tour endroit puis en côtes ainsi: *1 maille endroit, 3 mailles POINT DE RIZ – voir ci-dessus *, tricoter de *-* jusqu’à la fin du tour. Continuer en côtes ainsi pendant 4 cm. Mais je ne comprends pas je monte en côte ou au point de riz ?

11.02.2024 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Azza, ce point fantaisie (1 m endroit, 3 mailles point de riz) va former des côtes, autrement dit, continuez ainsi. Bon tricot!

12.02.2024 - 09:31

country flag Kristel Rõõm wrote:

Juhendis: Kui töö kõrgus on 23-23-24-24-25-26 cm silmusemärkijast, kahanda 32-34-38-40-40-42 silmust ühtlaste vahedega ringil = 232-260-276-296-320-348 silmust. Koo 1 ring parempidi (koo kõik õhksilmused keerdsilmustena, et ei jääks auke). Kas siin peab kahandama või kasvatama? Silmade arvu järgi kasvatama, aga tegelikult?

25.11.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Kristel! Viga parandatud. Tänan teatamast!

15.12.2022 - 23:00

country flag Mette wrote:

Hej, jag har ytterligare en fråga angående mönstret. Jag stickar storlek L och funderar över fram och bakdelen där det står att man ska öka med 38 maskor då arbetet mäter 24cm. Varifrån ska det mätas 24cm? Hela mitt arbete är ju betydligt längre (för tillfället nästan 50cm). Är det från mönstrets slut, från ärmens hål eller var? Och är det alltså hela arbetet som i slutet ska vara 60cm eller 60cm från ärmen (och hela arbetet då längre)?

29.09.2022 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mette, när du har delt till fram & bakstycke skriver vi härifrån mäts arbetet :)

29.09.2022 - 09:38

country flag Mette wrote:

Hej, Jag stickar storlek L och funderar om jag verkligen ska sticka tills arbetet är 30cm innan jag tar av maskor för ärmarna. Om jag räknat rätt har jag nästan stickat hela mönstret då arbetet är så långt, och på bilden ser det ut som att ärmen börjar ungefär mitt i mönstret. Är orolig över att jag gör fel och kommer dricka för långt och inte få mönster på ärmarna…

09.09.2022 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mette. Så lenge strikkefastheten din stemmer i høyden, så er du nesten ferdig med diagram A.1 når du skal dele til bol og ermer. Bildet viser en modell i str S (den skal måle 27 cm) og da blir det mer av diagram A.1 igjen etter delingen. mvh DROPS Design

12.09.2022 - 09:19

country flag Rosaria Pittano wrote:

Non capisco come devo iniziare e cosa è un alzata? Grazie.

02.12.2020 - 07:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Rosaria, deve iniziare come indicato dal collo. L'alzata consiste semplicemente di lavorare qualche ferro a ferri accorciati sul collo, in modo che sia un po' più alto rispetto al davanti, per una vestibilità migliore. Buon lavoro!

02.12.2020 - 08:43

country flag Anette Ericson wrote:

Frågar igen då jag nu ser att i delningen på tex storlek L så är det 100 maskor vardera på fram och bak men sedan står det att jag har 220 maskor när jag ska sticka kroppen. Var kom de 20 maskorna ifrån? De 10 som läggs upp vid delningen nämns ju bara i samband med när ärmen ska stickas. Fattar ingenting.

22.02.2020 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Du skal legge opp 10+10 masker under hver arm (tilhører bolen, ikke erme )= 220 masker til sammen. Ta en titt på denne videon, kanskje er det lettere å skjønne, selv om videoen viser raglan, se mellom tiden 07:00-09:25. Hur man stickar en tröja uppifrån och ner: God Fornøyelse.

24.02.2020 - 10:47

country flag Anette Ericson wrote:

Hur monterar jag ärmen mot kroppen? Det läggs ju bara upp maskor på ärmen? Det måste ju bli ett stort hål? I andra jag stickat motsvaras upplägg eller avmaskningar på både ärm och kropp och sys sedan mot varandra. Frågar precis innan jag kommit till delning.

22.02.2020 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Denne genseren strikkes ovenifra og ned, altså først strikkes halsen, så bærestykket, så settes maskene til ermene på en tråd og bolen strikkes så ferdig. Deretter strikkes ermene. Når du strikker første omgang på ermene, strikkes det opp 1 ny maske i hver av de maskene det ble lagt opp under erme når du strikket bolen (da slipper du å sy det "lille" hullet under ermene og genseren er ferdig montert). God Fornøyelse!

24.02.2020 - 10:14

country flag Simonne Van Frachem wrote:

Is dit patroon ook te verkrijgen om te breien op de breimachine ? En welke wol voor naalden nr 2 raad u mij aan voor dit werk ? Alvast bedankt voor het antwoord. groetjes, Simonne

23.05.2019 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Simone,

Helaas is dit patroon er alleen voor breien met de hand. Wij maken geen patronen voor de breimachine. Als je met naald 2 wilt breien, zou je een garen uit groep A kunnen kiezen, bijvoorbeeld DROPS Alpaca of DROPS Nord. Let er wel op of de stekenverhouding klopt, want dit patroon is met garen uit garengroep B.

23.05.2019 - 21:32