DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Silverwood

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and neck in rib in Snow. Size: S - XXL.

DROPS 174-23
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-575
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1100-1250 g, color no 23, tan

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS. 1st row in diagram = RS.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes):
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
NOTE: On next row (= from WS) always work st inside edge st P (to get 1 K inside edge st at assembly).
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 56-59-65-71 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Work rib as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, P 0-3-3-3, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this until piece measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 55-59-65-69 on first row. Now work A.1, finish with 1st st in A.1 and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP! Inc like this every 11th cm / 4½'' 3 times in total – work the inc sts in pattern = 61-65-71-75 sts. When piece measures 41-42-43-44 cm / 16"-16½"-17"-17 1/4", bind off 3 sts in each side for armhole. Now bind off for armholes as follows - READ DECREASE TIP: bind off 1 st on every other row a total of 2-3-5-6 times = 51-53-55-57 sts. When piece measures 62-64-66-68 cm / 24½"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4", bind off the middle 15-17-15-17 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 17-17-19-19 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 64-66-68-70 cm / 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27½". Work the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on as on back piece and work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 1-4-4-4 sts remain, K 0-3-3-3 and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Then adjust no of sts as on back piece before continuing with A.1 and inc in each side. Bind off for armholes as on back piece and continue until piece measures 57-59-60-62 cm / 22½"-23 1/4"-23½"-24½". Now slip the middle 9-11-9-11 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 17-17-19-19 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 64-66-68-70 cm / 25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27½". Work the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-26-32-32 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Work rib K 3/P 3 with 1 edge st in garter st for 7 cm / 2¾''. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 28-28-30-30 on first row. Continue with A.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 12-14-14-13 cm / 4 3/4"-5½"-5½"-5", inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side. Inc like this every 3½-3-3-3 cm / 1 1/4"-1"-1"-1" 11-12-12-13 times in total - work the inc sts in pattern = 50-52-54-56 sts. When sleeve measures 50-50-50-51 cm / 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-20", bind off for sleeve cap at beg of row in each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, then bind off 2 sts at beg of row in each side until piece measures 56-57-59-60 cm / 22"-22½"-23 1/4"-23½", then bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before binding off all sts, piece measures approx. 57-58-60-61 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-23½"-24".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Pick up from RS approx. 60 to 72 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holder at the front) on short circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. P 1 round while adjusting the no of sts to 60-66-66-72. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 3/P 3. When neck measures 7 cm / 2¾'', inc all P 3 to P 4 = 70-77-77-84 sts. When neck measures 14 cm / 5½'', dec all P 4 to P 3 = 60-66-66-72 sts. Continue with rib until neck measures 21 cm / 8 1/4''. LOOSELY bind off sts with K over K and P over P - NOTE: To make the bind-off edge more elastic make 1 YO after approx. every 6th st while binding off (bind off YOs as sts).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.12.2022
Decrease tip applies to armholes, not neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjours je ne comprend pas les aiguille 8 snow ses quoi et aussi je peux savoir le nom du point de fantaisie et comment on le fait je ne comprend pas et est ce que je peux tricoter le dos et le devant ensemble sans faire de couture ? Si oui quel serait les etaple a faire ? Pour 2xl svp si possible Merci

08.08.2023 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, Snow est le nom de la laine utilisée pour tricoter ce pull (cf nuancier); les aiguilles 8, la taille des aiguilles utilisées pour une tension de 11 m x 15 rangs = 10 x 10 cm; je ne connais pas le nom du point, désolée, tricotez A.1 ainsi, R1 (sur l'endroit): tout à l'endroit, R2 (sur l'envers): (1 m end, 1 m env), répétez de (à). Vous pouvez tricoter en allers et retours sur aiguilles droites - retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

08.08.2023 - 16:16

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Har en fråga om mönstret. Är detta rätt? Sett från rätsidan, varv 1: alla maskor är räta. Sett från rätsidan , varv 2: 1 kantmaska sedan 1 maska rät, 1 maska avigt osv. Avslutning på varv 2 är en rät maska och sedan en kantmaska.

15.12.2022 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elisabeth. Ja det stämmer (den första och sista rätmaskan på varv 1 är då kantmaskor). Mvh DROPS Design

16.12.2022 - 13:46

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Hej Har en fråga om minskningen för hals på framstycket. 1. På höger sida, görs minskningen från avigsidan? 2. Görs minskningen innanför sista maskan? 3. Hur minskar man "2 maskor 1 gång" Tacksam för svar

05.12.2022 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Elisabeth. Vi har forandret FELLETIPS til bare å gjelde ermhull, ikke halskant. Da blir det mer riktig. mvh DROPS Design

13.12.2022 - 08:41

country flag Mehwish wrote:

There is no video for this ridge stitch . i am completly lost

27.07.2022 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mehwish, ridge = work 2 knitted rows (all stitches are knitted). Where do you have problems working it? Or do you mean rib stitch?

31.07.2022 - 18:24

country flag Ghg wrote:

“ Når arb måler 41-42-43-44 cm lukkes der 3 m af i hver side til ærmegab” lukkes der af på indersiden af kantmasken eller lukkes denne af?

26.02.2022 - 11:43

country flag Terttu wrote:

Mistä löydän miesten koot? Eli rinnanympärys on 100cm, mikä on oikea koko?

14.02.2022 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, mitat löytyvät ohjeen alapuolella olevasta mittapiirroksesta.

16.02.2022 - 17:52

country flag Gitte Lysgaard wrote:

Kan det være rigtigt at der kun skal slås 59 masker op til ryg til en mand i str L. Det virker som om der kun er til et barn

06.09.2021 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte, Strikker du med DROPS Snow, har du 11 masker på 10 cm i bredden, så får du målene du finder i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

08.09.2021 - 15:49

country flag Nyx wrote:

Bonjour, combien de pelotes me faut-il pour chaque taille? Ce n'est indiqué nulle part...

25.03.2021 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Nyx, vous trouverez toujours la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille au poids, dans l'en-tête, autrement dit, il faut ici en taille S/M: 950 g DROPS Snow/50g la pelote = 19 pelotes DROPS Snow en taille S/M.Bon tricot!

25.03.2021 - 15:58

country flag Mariarosa wrote:

Leggo: Quando la manica misura 50-50-50-51 cm, intrecciare per l’arrotondamento della manica all’inizio del ferro da ciascun lato, come segue: 3 m 1 volta, poi intrecciare 2 m all’inizio del ferro da ciascun lato finché la manica non misura 56-57-59-60 cm; Per lo scalfo delle maniche, la diminuzione di 2 maglie, va eseguita 1 sola volta o su tutti i giri , fino a raggiungere la misura della taglia in questione?

28.02.2021 - 09:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariarosa, la diminuzione di 2 maglie va eseguita fino al raggiungimento della misura indicata. Buon lavoro!

28.02.2021 - 21:07

country flag Catalina wrote:

Hola! Para la espalda en la talla L, debo montar 59 puntos, los que incluyen los puntos de borde o 61 puntos? Cómo se realiza un pliegue? Gracias! Catalina

27.06.2020 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Catalina. Los puntos de orillo están incluidos en el total de puntos para montar. Cuando trabajamos en punto musgo, dos filas forman un pliegue, como pone en las explicaciones encima del patrón.

29.06.2020 - 21:04