The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to prevent holes | |
= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches from cable needle | |
= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4 stitches, knit 4 stitches from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper with cables and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
DROPS 180-16 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. DECREASE TIP (for body): Decrease as follows by both marker threads: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Increase as follows mid under the sleeve – start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. RAGLAN: Decrease 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves. Start 2 stitches before A.2/A.3, knit 2 together, work A.2/A.3, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ELEVATION (for back of neck): Cut the strand. Continue working as follows – starting after 11-13-16-18-19-20 stitches on the back piece (= mid back): Work stockinette stitch, A.2 and A.3 as before. Insert 1 marker in the next stitch on the row (= mid back). Start from the right side and work 36-37-39-41-43-45 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and work 73-75-79-83-87-91 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and work 67-69-73-77-81-85 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and work 61-63-67-71-75-79 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and work to mid back. Cut the strand. The round now starts at the same place as before, i.e. 16-17-19-21-23-25 stitches towards the right (seen from the right side) at the marker mid back. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked bottom up. The body is worked in the round with circular needle and the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles before they are worked together and you work the yoke in the round with circular needle. BODY: Cast on 166-178-194-210-226-246 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Nepal. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/ US 9 and work stockinette stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 83-89-97-105-113-123 stitches (the marker threads mark the sides of the garment). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 11 cm / 4½" decrease 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 4 cm / 1½" a total of 7 times = 138-150-166-182-198-218 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-38-38-38-38 cm / 14½"-14½"-15"-15"-15"-15" bind off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of each marker thread (= 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches in each side) = 61-67-73-81-87-95 stitches on the front/back piece. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves. SLEEVES: The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Nepal. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When the piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜" change to double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9. Knit 1 round and decrease 8-8-8-6-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 36-36-40-42-44-44 stitches. Work stockinette stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). When the piece measures 8 cm / 3⅛" increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm / 1½"-1"-⅞"-¾"-¾"-½" a total of 8-11-12-13-13-15 times = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. When the piece measures 40-39-38-37-36-34 cm / 15¾"-15¼"-15"-14½"-14¼"-13½" (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer yoke) bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 44-50-54-58-58-60 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 as the body where you have bind off stitches for the armholes = 210-234-254-278-290-310 stitches. Continue working as follows – start the round after 5-4-3-3-4-5 stitches on the back piece: Work * 51-59-67-75-79-85 stitches stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 12 stitches), 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches stockinette stitch, A.1 over the next 12 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. When A.1 has been completed in height 1 time, there are 226-250-270-294-306-326 stitches on the needle. Now continue working as follows: Work * 51-59-67-75-79-85 stitches stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 16 stitches), 30-34-36-40-42-46 stitches stockinette stitch, A.3 (= 16 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. Continue with pattern and decrease to RAGLAN – see description above. Decrease every 4th round 6-6-6-6-7-7 times, then every 2nd round 8-10-11-13-13-15 times (= a total of 14-16-17-19-20-22 times). After all the decreases, there are 114-122-134-142-146-150 stitches on the round. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above. On the next round, decrease 4 stitches over each of A.2 and A.3 = 98-106-118-126-130-134 stitches. The next round is worked as follows: Work * 33-35-39-43-47-51 stitches stockinette stitch and decrease 3-4-7-9-10-11 stitches evenly on round, knit the next 16-18-20-20-18-16 stitches together 2 and 2, *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Purl 1 round. The yoke measures approx. 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm / 8¼"-9"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾". NECK: Knit 1 round and increase 8 stitches evenly on round = 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½", then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (32)
Jardé wrote:
Bonjour, Juste avant de couper le fil pour réaliser la rehausse doit- on terminer par une maille envers du diagramme ou par une maille de transition à savoir une maille endroit ? Après cela je coupe le fil pour réaliser la rehausse et je voudrais savoir si les mailles de transition faisaient partie du dos ou des manches ?
02.03.2024 - 18:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Jardé, avant de tricoter la rehausse, tricotez le dernier tour exactement comme avant, en le commençant et en le terminant au même endroit que les tours précédents, coupez le fil. Les rangs raccourcis doivent commencer au milieu du dos, mettez un marqueur si besoin pour mieux repérer le milieu du dos (pour que le ,nombre de mailles tricoté de chaque côté soit symétrique) et tricotez en jersey, avec les torsades comme avant en suivant bien le nombre de mailles pour votre taille. Bon tricot!
04.03.2024 - 08:26Agnieszka wrote:
Cześć, przerobiłam tył i przód i mam koniec nitki na początku podkroju pachy. Jak teraz dodać rękawy, które też mam już zrobione, skoro na wzorze jest napisane, żeby zacząć okrążenie za 5 pierwszymi oczkami i 51 oczek? Czy nie powinnam się cofnąć z oczkami o 5 idodac rękawy tak, jakjestna filmiku? Czy jak mam zrobione podkroje na rękawach, to mam dokończyć okrążenie aby nitka była na początku podkroju? Z góry dziękuję za pomoc, Pozdrawiam
07.10.2023 - 13:22DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Agnieszko, ja bym to zrobiła jak jest na filmie TUTAJ. Później przerabiając karczek zaczniesz okrążenie za 5-4-3-3-4-5 pierwszymi oczkami tyłu jak w opisie. Pozdrawiamy!
09.10.2023 - 08:57Jardé wrote:
Bonjour, Concernant la réhausse j'imagine qu'on tricote les mailles comme elles se présentent ? A savoir que sur les rangs retour donc côté envers on tricote les mailles se présentant à l'envers à l'envers et celles se présentant à l'endroit à l'endroit ? Merci beaucoup d'avance.
22.03.2023 - 22:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Jardé, effectivement, lorsque l'on tricote les rangs envers de la réhausse, tricotez les mailles des diagrammes comme elles se présentent (pour conserver le motif, vu sur l'endroit) et les autres mailles à l'envers (jersey envers, sur l'envers). Bon tricot!
23.03.2023 - 09:58Jardé wrote:
Bonjour, je suis arrivée au niveau de la rehausse et je suis coincée. Première question : le dos est il bien le premier côté du tour que l'on tricote ? ( ce n'est pas spécifié dans les instructions ) Deuxième question : j'ai bien 23 mailles pour le devant et le dos et il faut commencer le tour après les 11 premières mailles. ... Mais 23 est un nombre impair. On place le marqueur dans la 12 ème maille ? Merci infiniment de votre aide.
06.03.2023 - 03:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Jardé, vous commencez bien par le dos lorsque vous tricotez l'empiècement; comptez les 11 premières mailles après la maille du milieu dos (elle sera tricotée au premier rang sur l'envers: 36 m sur l'endroit puis 73 m sur l'envers, soit 36 m de chaque côté de cette maille du nombre 'impair'). Bon tricot!
06.03.2023 - 10:42Jardé wrote:
Bonjour, au niveau du raglan il faut diminuer 6 fois tous les 4 tours puis 8 fois tous les 2 tours. Cela fait-il bien 40 tours au total ? Merci beaucoup par avance.
18.02.2023 - 01:11DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Jardé, tout à fait. Bon tricot!
20.02.2023 - 09:08Dea wrote:
Un'altra cosa, sempre per l'alzata, quando dice " inserire un segnapunti nella maglia successiva sul ferro (centro dietro) e lavorare 36 (taglia più piccola) maglie dopo il segnapunti...intende che quella col segno non viene conteggiata?
28.08.2021 - 14:26DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Dea, si intende dopo il segnapunti. Buon lavoro!
29.08.2021 - 22:42Dea wrote:
Buongiorno, dove inizia il giro dopo che uno ha fatto l'alzata? Nella spiegazione dice nello stesso punto di prima , quindi 16 maglie verso destra rispetto al segnapunti sul dietro, in sostanza invece che all'inizio del dietro , si parte in mezzo al diagramma della treccia?
28.08.2021 - 14:22DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Dea, dopo l'alzata il giro inizia all'altezza del segnapunti al centro dietro. Buon lavoro!
29.08.2021 - 22:42Rosanne wrote:
Of moet de laatste zin van de instructie voor de Verhoging misschien zijn: “ De naald begint nu op dezelfde plaats als hiervoor, dus 16 steken richting de rechterkant VANAF (in plaats van OP) de markeerdraad midden achter.”? Dan beginnen de 33 steken net in de kabel rechts achter en lopen precies over het middenachtergedeelte. Klopt dit?
09.02.2020 - 17:08DROPS Design answered:
Dag Rosanne,
De naald moet je inderdaad beginnen bij waar je was voordat je begon met de verhoging, dus het zou inderdaad zo kunnen zijn dat de minderingen over het voor- en achterpand gemaakt moeten worden.
10.02.2020 - 23:37Rosanne wrote:
Dank! Nog een laatste vraag: van waar gerekend begint men met de 33 volgende steken. M.a.w. Waar moeten de 16 steken 2 aan 2 recht samen geplaatst worden? Zijn deze 16 steken midden boven de mouwen of midden voor en midden achter? Heel hartelijk dank voor uw hulp.
09.02.2020 - 16:54DROPS Design answered:
Dag Rosanne,
Het was even puzzelen, maar ik denk dat het de bedoeling is dat je eerst 23 steken breit (in plaats van 33) en dan de volgende 16 steken 2 aan 2 samen breit, deze 16 steken zijn de 12 steken van de raglan, 2 steken van de mouw en nog 12 steken van de raglan. Dit herhaal je vervolgens nog een keer. Dus niet 2 aan 2 samenbreien op de voor- en achterpanden, maar over de raglan- en mouwsteken. Er zit dus denk ik een foutje in het patroon en ik zal dit even doorgeven aan design ter controle
10.02.2020 - 23:31Rosanne wrote:
Dank u wel. Als ik de verhoging heb gemaakt moet ik 4 steken minderen over elk van de A2 en A3. Echter: dit is tevens de 9e naald van A2 en A3, en moet ik de kabels maken. Hoe combineer ik dit? Waar plaats ik de minderingen?
06.02.2020 - 16:12DROPS Design answered:
Dag Rosanne,
Het idee is dat je aan het einde van de kabels, dus vlak voordat je de hals rand maakt en klaar bent met de kabels, 4 steken boven elke kabel mindert. Dit doe je door 4 keer 2 steken samen te breien.
09.02.2020 - 11:10