DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Nova Scotia Cardigan

Jacket with Fana pattern, round yoke and A-shape, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 180-21
DROPS design: Pattern u-814
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 72, light pearl gray
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 45, olive
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color no 50, sea green

You can replace the DROPS Karisma colors used in this pattern with many other color combinations. Check the pattern pictures for inspiration and the Comments section to find out the exact color numbers in the samples.

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 or 80 cm / 16", 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 for edge in garter stitch at the bottom of body – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON (angular) NO 537: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Karisma 72, 45, 50
B) DROPS Karisma 72, 21, 16
C) DROPS Karisma 71, 40, 64
D) DROPS Karisma 77, 55, 54
E) DROPS Karisma 55, 11, 56
F) DROPS Karisma 55, 52, 54
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to increase evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 98 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 12 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (= e.g. 11) = 7.8. I.e. in this example increase after approx. every 8th stitch (do not increase over bands). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle (= mid back). Begin from right side with light pearl gray and knit as before until 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42, turn, tighten yarn and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70, turn, tighten yarn and purl the rest of row (knit band).

KNITTING TIP-1 (applies to bands):
On the rows where there are either stripes or pattern border work the color in the stripes or the base color of pattern border also over the 6 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to knitting gauge):
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease for first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½"-3/4'', then decrease the next 4-4-4-5-5-5 approx. 8-9 cm / 3"-3½'' apart.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle top down, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 94-98-102-102-110-114 stitches (including 6 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light pearl gray. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work next row as follows from right side: 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 and finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above.
When neck edge measures 3 cm / 1'', knit 1 row from right side while at the same time increasing 9-11-13-13-11-13 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 103-109-115-115-121-127 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.

YOKE:
Purl 1 row from wrong side with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side with light pearl gray. For better fit work an ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above.
Work next row as follows from right side: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A (choose diagram for correct size and finish on row marked with arrow for correct size), until 7 stitches remain on needle (= 15-16-17-17-18-19 repetitions of 6 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND 2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram. When A.1 has been worked, there are 283-301-319-353-373-393 stitches on row and piece measures approx. 14-16-17-20-21-24 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8"-8 1/4"-9½'' from cast-on edge and down, measured mid front.
Work next row as follows from wrong side (read the diagrams from left to right from wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until 7 stitches remain on needle (= 15-16-17-19-20-22 repetitions of 18 stitches) and increase at the same time 0-0-0-2-0-16 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch = 283-301-319-355-373-409 stitches on needle.
Continue pattern. When A.2 has been worked, work 0-0-2-0-2-0 rows in stockinette stitch with light pearl gray. Piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13'' from cast-on edge measured mid front.
Now divide stitches for body and sleeves and work next row from right side with light pearl gray: Knit 44-46-48-55-58-66 and increase 0-1-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly (= front piece), slip the next 60-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitch on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit the next 75-81-83-97-105-121 stitches and increase 2-2-6-2-4-0 stitches evenly (= back piece), slip the next 60-64-70-74-76-78 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 44-46-48-55-58-66 stitches and increase 0-1-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 181-193-209-229-253-281 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 6 knitted band stitches in each side with light pearl gray. Insert 1 marker thread 48-51-55-60-66-73 stitches in from each side (= front pieces, i.e. in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve in each side = 85-91-99-109-121-135 stitches on back piece) – move marker threads when working. Work next row as follows from right side: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until 7 stitches remain on needle, work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
NOW WORK PATTERN AND INCREASE AT THE SAME TIME. READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN AND INCREASE BEFORE CONTINUING:
INCREASE:
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Work the increased stitches in the pattern. Increase like this every 4½-3½-3-3-2½-3 cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1"-1"-7/8"-1" 6-7-8-8-9-8 times in total = 205-221-241-261-289-313 stitches.
PATTERN:
Work A.3 5 times in total vertically. Then work with light pearl gray until finished measurements. Continue in stockinette stitch with 6 band stitches in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 33 cm / 13'' from division. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 4 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Loosely bind off by knitting with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 from right side. Entire jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 60-64-70-74-76-78 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve with light pearl gray = 68-72-80-84-88-92 stitches on needle. Knit 1 round with light pearl gray.
NOW WORK PATTERN AND DECREASE AT THE SAME TIME. READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN AND DECREASE BEFORE CONTINUING:
PATTERN:
Work A.3A in the round. When A.3A has been worked 3 times vertically, work piece in light pearl gray until finished measurements.
DECREASE:
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-3/8'' 13-14-17-18-19-20 times in total = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Work until piece measures 37-36-34-33-31-30 cm / 14½"-14 1/4"-13½"-13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4'' from division. Knit 1 round while increasing 10-12-10-12-10-12 stitches evenly = 52-56-56-60-60-64 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2). When rib measures 5 cm / 2'' (the entire sleeve measures 42-41-39-38-36-35 cm / 16½"-16"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4'' from division), loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.11.2019
New yarn amount: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B) 400-450-450-500-550-450 g color 72, light pearl grey 100-100-100-150-150-150 g color 45, olive 100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 50, sea green

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = green
symbols = light olive
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Helgard wrote:

Can I get this pattern in a German translation?

31.01.2020 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Helgard, If you click on the language box below the photo you can choose German. Happy knitting!

03.02.2020 - 07:29

country flag Pirkko wrote:

Could you please correct the requirement of yarn of this pattern? I am knitting the size M and still have the sleeves to knit. There is only abt. 20 grams of the base colour left so I have to buy more. On the other hand I have one whole skein (plus more) left of the colour for the star pattern, which is not used at all for the sleeves. The colour for the narrow stripes seems to be about right. I like the design of this cardigan very much and enjoy knitting it.

28.10.2019 - 10:30

country flag Hanne Jensen wrote:

Hvordan laver jeg 6 kantmasker. Står ved halskanten

25.09.2018 - 08:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Du legger opp masker som vanlig (masketallet inkluderer disse kantmaskene), så strikker du en omgang vrang. Videre strikkes mønsteret som forklart, men de ytterste 6 maskene i hver side strikkes i riller hele veien (altså de strikkes rett fra både retten og vrangen). Slik får du 1 stolpe i riller i hver side = åpningen på jakken. God fornøyelse

25.09.2018 - 10:09

country flag Marianne wrote:

Fantastisk idé med forskellige farvekombinationer! Bare der var det på flere modeller!

16.02.2018 - 14:39

country flag Jannie De Fondaumiere wrote:

Garnforbruget er fuldstændig fejlberegnet. Jeg måtte købe 2 ekstra nøgler af grundfarven (og det blev så ikke samme indfarvning), mens der blev hhv 2og 1 nøgler tilovers af de øvrige farver..... Herudover blev bærestykket uforholdsmæssigt langt ift resten af trøjen Min strikkefasthed passede hele vejen.

08.01.2018 - 18:19

country flag Malin Strömberg wrote:

Min svärmor har stickat denna fina modell (fast o andra färger) men garnåtgången verkar varit helt felberäknad. Det fattades minst två nystan av grundfärgen och det blev över av de färgerna som utgör ränder och stjärnor. På vår kofta blev det lite egen design av ärmarna utifrån vad som fanns kvar av garnerna. Så ska man göra denna kofta rekommendera att ha fler nystan av grundfärgen o färre av randfärgerna. Mvh

26.12.2017 - 14:59

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Colour combinations shown are: A) DROPS Karisma 72, 45, 50 B) DROPS Karisma 72, 21, 16 C) DROPS Karisma 71, 40, 64 D) DROPS Karisma 77, 55, 54 E) DROPS Karisma 55, 11, 56 F) DROPS Karisma 55, 52, 54

27.09.2017 - 10:21