DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 96.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Between the Lines

Knitted oversized jumper with English rib, V-neck and stripes. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS 180-34
DROPS design: Pattern ks-127
Yarn group A + A + A or D
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Because of the texture of the jumper, it will be somewhat longer that measurements on chart when worn - read MEASURING TIP!
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 5575, navy blue
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 4305, dark indigo
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 7233, olive
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-250-275 g color 16, dark purple
50-50-50-50-75-75 g color 08, gray blue
25-50-50-50-50-50 g color 21, cobalt blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 7 mm / US 10.75 – or size needed to get 11 stitches and 30 rows in English rib (15 visible stitches in English rib vertically) with 3 strands on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 96.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

MEASURING TIP:
Because texture of the garment the jumper will be approx. 6-8 cm / 2½"-3'' longer than measurements in chart when worn. Sleeve length will be approx. 3-5 cm / 1"-2'' longer. Measurements on chart can thus seem a bit short when compared to jumper on picture but the jumper will be the correct measurements when worn.
All length measurements must be done when piece is flat, but feel free to check while working by holding the garment up and work until desired length.

ENGLISH RIB:
2 rows in English rib = 1 visible stitch vertically.
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise (insert right needle into stitch on left needle from right to left) *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains before edge stitches, knit 1.
ROW 2: * Make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise, knit yarn over and slipped stitch together *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains before edge stitch(es), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise.
ROW 3: * Knit yarn over and slipped stitch together, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch purlwise *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch(es), knit yarn over and slipped stitch together.
Repeat rows 2 and 3.

STRIPES BODY:
6 cm / 2½'' in all sizes in dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
8-8-10-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-4"-4"-4"-4'' medium petrol Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
3 cm / 1'' in all sizes in olive Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
4 cm / 1½'' in all sizes in dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
6 cm / 2½'' in all sizes in navy blue Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (2 strands).
8 cm / 2'' in all sizes in olive Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
4-4-4-4-6-6 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-2½"-2½'' medium petrol Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
3 cm / §'' in dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
After last stripe piece measures approx. 60-60-62-64-66-66 cm / 23½"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4"-26"-26". Then work until finished measurements with navy blue Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (2 strands).

STRIPES SLEEVE:
3 cm / 1'' in all sizes in dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
4 cm / 1½'' in all sizes in medium petrol Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
1 cm / ½'' in all sizes in olive Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
2 cm / 3/4'' in all sizes in dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
3 cm / 1'' in all sizes in navy blue Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (2 strands).
4 cm / 1½'' in all sizes in olive Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
2 cm / 3/4'' in all sizes in medium petrol Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + gray blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
1 cm / ½'' in all sizes dark indigo Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (1 strand) + cobalt blue Kid-Silk (1 strand).
After last stripe piece measures approx. 36-36-36-34-34-32 cm / 14 1/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-13½"-13½"-12½". Then work until finished measurements with navy blue Alpaca (1 strand) + dark purple Kid-Silk (2 strands).

DECREASE TIP (applies to V-neck):
Decrease for neck inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease after 3 edge stitches as follows: Purl 2 twisted together (yarn over is not counted as a stitch and is worked twisted together with the 2 stitches = 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before 3 edge stitches as follows: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches and purl 2 together (yarn over is not counted as a stitch and is worked together with the 2 stitches = 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in English rib pattern.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Piece is worked back and forth in parts and sewn together when finished. Work entire garment in 1 strand Alpaca and 2 strands Kid-Silk (= 3 strands).

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on somewhat loosely 63-67-71-77-83-91 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand navy blue Alpaca + 2 strand dark purple Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 3 stitches in garter stitch. Work back from wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit. Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above, until 3 stitches remain on needle and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue with English rib and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Read MEASURING TIP and REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'', insert 1 marker in each side, these marks vents in the sides. When piece measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'', work English rib with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 18-18-18-20-20-20 cm / 7"-7"-7"-8"-8"-8", work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above.
When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the 2 next rows for armholes = 59-63-67-73-79-87 stitches. Continue with English rib, stripes and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-48-50-50-52 cm / 18"-19"-19"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-20½", work 2 ridges over the middle 7 stitches on needle (yarn overs do not count as stitches and are knitted together with every slipped stitch on first row, work the other stitches as before). After the 2 ridges, work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 25-27-29-32-35-39 stitches in English rib, knit 5, pass 4th stitch worked over 5th stitch worked (= 1 stitch bind off mid front), knit 2, 25-27-29-32-35-39 stitches in English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Slip the 29-31-33-36-39-43 stitch in the right side of piece (seen from right side) on 1 stitch holder or leave them on a needle.
Continue back and forth over the remaining 29-31-33-36-39-43 stitches in English rib, stripes, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When 5 rows have been worked after division and next row is from right side, decrease for V-neck towards mid front – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total and then every 8th row 3 times in total in all sizes = 24-26-27-30-32-36 stitches remain on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''. Then LOOSELY bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (work yarn overs together with knit stitches when binding off).
Then work over stitches in right side of piece the same way as in left side but reversed. I.e. work first row from wrong side as follows: Slip stitch bind off mid front on left needle and knit this stitch together with next stitch on left needle (this is done to avoid a visible mark at the bottom of V-neck), knit 2, 25-27-29-32-35-39 stitches in English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth over the 29-31-33-36-39-43 stitches in English rib, stripes, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. When 5 rows have been worked after division and next row is from right side, decrease for V-neck towards mid front – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total and then every 8th row 3 times in total in all sizes = 24-26-27-30-32-36 stitches remain on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''. Then LOOSELY bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (work yarn overs together with the slipped stitches when binding off).

BACK PIECE:
Cast on somewhat loosely 63-67-71-77-83-91 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand navy blue Alpaca + 2 strand dark purple Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 3 stitches in garter stitch. Work back from wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit. Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, English rib, until 3 stitches remain on needle and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue with English rib and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', insert 1 marker in each side, these marks vents in the sides (back piece is 4 cm / 1½'' longer than front piece). When piece measures 21 cm / 8 1/4'', work English rib with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 22-22-22-24-24-24 cm / 8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-9"-9"-9", work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above - NOTE: Make sure to work the same no of rows in every stripe as on front piece.
When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'', bind off 2 stitches at beginning of the 2 next rows for armholes = 59-63-67-73-79-87 stitches. Continue with English rib, stripes and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm / 25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½'', work 2 ridges over the middle 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches on needle (yarn overs do not count as stitches and are knitted together with every slipped stitch on first row, work the other stitches on needle as before). On first row from right side after the 2 ridges bind off the middle 9-9-11-11-13-13 stitches for neck. Slip the 25-27-28-31-33-37 stitches in the right side of piece (seen from right side) on 1 stitch holder or leave them on a needle. Continue back and forth over the remaining 25-27-28-31-33-37 stitches in English rib, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the neck at the back. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side decrease 1 stitch for neck – read DECREASE TIP = 24-26-27-30-32-36 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''. Then LOOSELY bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (work yarn overs together with the slipped stitches when binding off). Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on somewhat loosely 23-25-25-27-27-29 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand navy blue Alpaca + 2 strand dark purple Kid-Silk (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work back from wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl, knit over knit. Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, English rib, until 1 stitch remains on needle and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 8-8-9-9-9-7 cm / 3"-3"-3½"-3½"--3½"-2 3/4", increase 1 stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-4-3-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½-"1½"-1"-1"-3/4"-3/4" 9-9-11-11-12-12 times in total = 41-43-47-49-51-53 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-16-16-14-14-12 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-5½"-4 3/4", work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above.
When piece measures 43-42-42-40-38-36 cm / 17"-16½"-16½"-15 3/4"-15"-14 1/4", insert 1 marker in each side - marks where to sew in sleeve in armholes. Work until sleeve measures 1 cm / 3/8'' from marker (entire sleeve measures approx. 44-43-43-41-39-37 cm / 17 1/4"-17"-17"-16"-15 1/4"-14½" NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Then LOOSELY bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (work yarn overs together with the slipped stitches when binding off). Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge - make sure the seam is not tight. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch and sew bottom of armhole (marker on sleeve should fit side seam on body). Sew underarm and side seams in one – sew in outer loop of edge stitches but leave approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' at the bottom on front piece and 20 cm / 8'' at the bottom of back piece for vents.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 180-34

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Dolfin wrote:

Bonjour, Pour l'échantillon, le maille endroit tricotée avec le jetée compte-t-elle pour une maille ou pour deux mailles ? Merci Beau week-end

13.01.2024 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dolfin, elle compte pour une maille en largeur, pour la hauteur, si vous la comptez pour 1 maille, vous devez avoir 30 rangs, si vous la comptez pour 2 mailles, vous devez alors avoir 15 rangs. Bon tricot!

15.01.2024 - 08:19

country flag Petra Ragnerstam wrote:

Hej! Jag vill sticka den här tröjan, men vill ändra färgerna, vilket visade sig bli ett pussel. När jag kollar färgerna i raderna (antalet centimeter) i relation till garnåtgång som står i början av mönstret, blir jag förvirrad. När det gäller Alpacka-garnet står det om åtgång sårhär i strl S: 150g-marinblå. Men när man tittar på själva randbeskrivningen stickas mycket färre cm med den färgen än med färgen lila/grå/blå (50g- lila/grå/blå).

17.06.2021 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Petra. Om du ser i beskrivningen så står det att du först stickar med 1 tråd marinblå Alpaca + 2 trådar mörk lila Kid-Silk på de olika delarna innan du börjar med "RÄNDER". Mvh DROPS Design

18.06.2021 - 07:55

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hallo, ich würde dieses Modell gerne unifarben stricken, wieviel Material brauche ich dann für die Grösse M ? beste Grüsse, Christiane

21.07.2020 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, Sie sollten 350 g Alpaca und 275 g Kid-Silk einplanen. Noch ein Hinweis: Achten Sie beim Stricken stets darauf, dass Sie die Maschenprobe und die angegebenen Maße einhalten, damit der Garnverbrauch passt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.07.2020 - 11:24

country flag My29 wrote:

Bonjour, Est-ce que je peux tricoter ce modèle avec 2 fils Brushed Alpaca Silk ? Merci pour vos modeles, il y a beaucoup de choix pour tous les goûts. On trouve forcément son bonheur ! C'est super.

02.02.2019 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour My29 et merci! Ce modèle se tricote avec 3 fils du groupe A (= 1 fil Alpaca + 2 fils Kid-Silk), Brushed Alpaca Silk appartient au groupe C et peut remplacer 2 fils du groupe A, avec 2 fils Brushed Alpaca Silk, la texture risque d'être un peu différente -mais vous pouvez par ex utiliser Melody (groupe D = 3 fils du groupe A). Vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici, n'oubliez pas de faire un échantillon au préalable pour être certaine de la texture également. Bon tricot!

04.02.2019 - 11:38

country flag Milicevic wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe Kleidergröße 54, wie kann ich ausrechnen wieviel Maschen ich für diesen Pullover benötige. Und dann natürlich, wieviel Wolle benötige ich? Vorab vielen Dank für die Antwort! Liebe Grüße Brigitte

27.02.2018 - 07:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Milicevic, Leider können wir keine individuellen Umrechnungen vornehmen, wenden Sie sich mit diesem Wunsch bitte an den Laden, in dem Sie die Wolle kaufen. Vielen Dank für Ihr Verständnis.

27.02.2018 - 09:09

country flag Siorat wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai réalisé ce modèle comme indiqué : il est absolument magnifique ! Beau, chaud, agréable à porter et très doux. Merci ! Je suis très contente. Les modèles sont très beaux et les explications parfaitement précises. Je suis très heureuse de tout ce que vous proposez : modèles et laines. Merci Drops et la boutique Kalidou.

11.11.2017 - 17:41

country flag Sue wrote:

I would love to change two of the colours in this pattern. Keeping all the Blue colours, what would be good alternatives for the Purple Kid-silk, and the Olive Alpaca? Look forward to reading your suggestions.

19.10.2017 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, for any help choosing a colour you are welcome to contact your DROPS Store. Happy knitting!

19.10.2017 - 16:55

country flag Vorberger wrote:

Kann ich diesen Pullover auch mit Angorawolle Stricken? Kann ich jede Anleitung rein theoretisch auch in Angorawolle herstellen? Mfg

02.10.2017 - 01:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vorberger, für weitere persönnliche Hilfe wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden weiter helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.10.2017 - 10:53

country flag Berit Gaustad wrote:

Jeg ønsker å strikke modell 180-34 i enfarget garn. Hvor mye garn trenger jeg da?

13.08.2017 - 22:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Berit. Det har vi desverre ikke noe oversikt over. Genseren er strikket i 2 forskjellige garn der det brukes 1 tråd av Aplaca og 2 tråder av Kid-Silk, og der kvalitetene har ulik løpelengde. Ta en titt på andre lignende modeller vi har i Alpaca og Kid-Silk, se på målskissene og se om du finner en som er lik i størrelsen til 180-34, og ut ifra det kan du få en viss formening om garnmengde. Jeg vil tippe på 350 g Alpaca (1 tråd) og 350 gram Kid-Silk (2 tråder) i str M /L. God Fornøyelse!

14.08.2017 - 14:28

country flag Vanessa wrote:

Ginge statt A+A+A auch A+C (d.h. z.B. Brushed Alpaka Silk statt Kid Silk)?

11.07.2017 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vanessa, ja gerne können Sie auch so stricken - lesen Sie mehr über Ersatzgarne hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.07.2017 - 15:56