DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 86.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Rosendal

The set consists of: Knitted jacket with round yoke and multi-colored Norwegian pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat and mittens with multi-colored Norwegian pattern. The set is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS 181-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-111
Yarn group B
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There will be enough yarn for the complete set with approx:
700-750-850-900-1000-1050 g color 32, dark rose
200-200-200-200-250-250 g color 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 07, light brown
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JACKET:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g color 32, dark rose
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 08, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 07, light brown

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16" + 32") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLE AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Cedar NO 513: 8-8-8-8-9-9 items.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21¼"/22" - 22"/22¾"
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g color 32, dark rose
50-50 g color 08, light beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for rib.
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MITTENS:
Sizes: One-size
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g color 32, dark rose
50 g color 08, light beige

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4 – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 86.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

INCREASE TIP (for the jacket):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 104 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 16 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 15) = 5.86.
In this example, increase after approx. every 6th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
Do not increase over the bands.

ELEVATION (for back of neck on jacket):
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row (= mid back). Start from the right side and knit until you have worked 12-13-14-14-15-15 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-26-28-28-30-30 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 36-39-42-42-45-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 48-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 60-65-70-70-75-75 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl to end of row (the band is worked as before).

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if you find it becomes tight.

PATTERN:
Jacket: See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.8.
Mittens: See diagrams A.9 to A.13.


DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under the sleeve on the jacket):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for hat):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 26.
In this example, knit every 25th and 26th stitch together.

BUTTONHOLE (for jacket):
Decrease for buttonhole on right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side until there are 4 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish with knit 2. On the next row, knit the yarn over; there will be a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neckline measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½", then work the next 7-7-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-8-8½-7½-8 cm / 2⅞"-3"-3"-3¼"-2⅞"-3" between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, top down; change to double pointed needles when necessary.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 104-107-110-116-119-122 stitches (including 8 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and dark rose. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.1 (= 8 band stitches), * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 9 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with A.2 (= 8 band stitches). Continue rib in this way – remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – see description above.
When the rib measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-1½" knit 1 row from the right side with 8 band stitches in each side as before, AT THE SAME TIME increase 15-15-17-16-18-15 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 119-122-127-132-137-137 stitches.
Continue by working yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and purl 1 row from the wrong side with 8 band stitches in each side as before (the yarn overs from the previous row are purled twisted to prevent holes). For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above.
When the elevation has been completed, work the next row as follows from the right side: A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.3A until there are 9 stitches left on row (= 17-21-22-23-24-24 repeats of 6-5-5-5-5-5 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with A.2 (= 8 stitches). Continue pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. Read KNITTING TIP-1! REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.3 has been completed, there are 255-311-325-339-353-401 stitches on the row and the piece measures approx. 12-14-14-16-16-18 cm / 4¾"-5½"-5½"-6¼"-6¼"-7" from the cast-on edge, measured mid front.
The next row is an increase row (marked with arrow-1 in A.4A) and is worked as follows from the right side: A.1 (= 8 stitches), work A.4A until there are 9 stitches left on the row and increase at the same time 28-14-14-28-42-22 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.4B (= 1 stitch) and finish with A.2 (= 8 stitches) = 283-325-339-367-395-423 stitches. There is now room for 19-22-23-25-27-29 repeats of A.4A (of 14 stitches). Continue A.4A/A.4B with 8 band stitches in each side as before.
On the row marked with arrow-2 in A.4A increase 16-2-20-28-24-16 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over the bands) = 299-327-359-395-419-439 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed, the last row has been worked from the right side and the piece measures approx. 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the cast-on edge measured mid front.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side with dark rose: Continue A.2 over the band, purl 42-46-49-55-61-65 stitches (= front piece), place the next 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), purl the next 83-91-97-109-121-129 stitches (= back piece), place the next 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), purl 42-46-49-55-61-65 stitches and continue A.1 over the band (= front piece). The body and sleeves are now finished separately.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 199-215-231-255-279-303 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side with dark rose: Continue A.1 over the band, work stockinette stitch until there are 8 stitches left on the row and increase at the same time 10-6-2-2-2-2 stitches evenly over theses stitches, finish with A.2 over the band = 209-221-233-257-281-305 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Continue A.2 over the band, work A.5B (= 1 stitch), work A.5A until there are 8 stitches left on the row (= 16-17-18-20-22-24 repeats of 12 stitches – NOTE: The diagram is read from left to right when working from the wrong side) and finish with A.1 over the band. Continue the pattern in this way
On the row marked with arrow-3 in A.5A increase 12 stitches evenly on row in all sizes = 221-233-245-269-293-317 stitches.
When A.5 has been completed, work the next row as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 over the band, work A.6A until there are 9 stitches left on the row (= 34-36-38-42-46-50 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.6B (= 1 stitch) and continue A.2 over the band. Continue the pattern in this way and repeat A.6 until the piece measures approx. 22-23-24-24-24-24 cm / 8¾"-9"-9½"-9½"-9½"-9½"-" from the separation for sleeves – adjust so that you have worked 3 or 5 rows with dark rose after a row of "dots".
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Continue A.1 over the band, work A.7A until there are 9 stitches left on the row (= 17-18-19-21-23-25 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.7B (= 1 stitch) and finish with A.2 over the band. When A.7 has been completed, purl 1 row from the wrong side with dark rose where you increase 42-48-48-54-60-66 stitches evenly on row = 263-281-293-323-353-383 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next row as follows from the right side: A.1 over the band, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 9 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with A.2 over the band. Continue rib in this way for 5 cm / 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches).
The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-64-74-80-80-82 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and, in addition, knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve with dark rose = 66-72-84-90-90-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round by the marker thread and work A.5A in the round (= 5½-6-7-7½-7½-8 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.5A has been competed 1 time in height, continue by working A.6A in the same way, but make sure the dots are in the same place over A.5A as on the body.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm / ¾" from the separation in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease in this way a total of 9-12-18-18-18-21 times; in S: Every 11th round, in M: Every 8th round, in L + XL: Every 5th round, in XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXXL: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round = 48-48-48-54-54-54 stitches. Continue working A.6A until the piece measures approx. 36-36-35-34-32-31 cm / 14¼"-14¼"-13¾"-13½"-12½"-12¼" from the separation – adjust so that you have worked 2-4 rounds with dark rose after a round of "dots". Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the bind-off edge being tight, make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 41-41-40-39-37-36 cm / 16"-16"-15¾"-15¼"-14"½-14¼" from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on the buttons.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 104-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and dark rose. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 /purl 2) for 3-4 cm / 1"-1½". Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit 1 round where you decrease 4-2 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE TIP = 100-110 stitches. Work A.8 in the round (= 10-11 repeats of 10 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! After the increases in A.8 there are 140-154 stitches and 10-11 repeats of 14 stitches.
On the round marked with arrow-1 in A.8 decrease 16-18 stitches evenly on round = 124-136 stitches. Continue the pattern.
On the round marked with arrow-2 in A.8 decrease 16-16 stitches evenly on round = 108-120 stitches. Continue the pattern.
On the round marked with arrow-3 in A.8 decrease 24 stitches evenly on round in both sizes = 84-96 stitches. Continue the pattern.
When A.8 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7". Work stockinette stitch onwards with dark rose. AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round after A.8, decrease 20-28 stitches evenly on round = 64-68 stitches. When the piece measures 19-20 cm / 7½"-8" work as follows: * Knit 1 round, on the next round knit while decreasing 16-17 stitches evenly on round *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, but for each round where you decrease, work 1 stitch less before 2 stitches are worked together = 16-17 stitches left.
Knit 1 round. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 8-9 stitches left.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten the strand and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 21-22 cm / 8¼"-8¾" from top down.
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LEFT MITTEN:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and dark rose. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 /purl 1). When the rib measures 4 cm / 1½" knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly on round (increase 1 stitch after every 12th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes) = 52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next round as follows: Work A.9 (= 26 stitches), then A.10 (= 26 stitches). Continue pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When you have worked as far as the 3 black squares in the diagram, work A.11 onwards over these 3 stitches for the thumb gusset, the remaining stitches are continued as before in A.9 and A.10.
When A.11 has been worked up to and including round 13 (marked with triangle in the diagram) and you have increased 5 times in each side on the thumb gusset as shown in the diagram, place the 13 thumb-gusset stitches on 1 thread, work to end of rnd = 49 stitches.
The last round in A.9 is worked as follows: Work the first 19 stitches in A.9, cast on 3 new stitches on the needle over the stitches on the thread, work the last 4 stitches in A.9 and continue A.10 over the remaining 26 stitches = 52 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: Work A.12 over the first 26 stitches and continue A.10 over the next 26 stitches. Continue the pattern in this way and decrease as shown in the diagrams. After all the decreases, there are 12 stitches left on the needles. Cut the strands, pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten the strands and fasten well. The mitten measures approx. 26 cm / 10¼" from top down.

THUMB:
Place the 13 thumb-gusset stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. In addition, knit up 9 stitches behind the thumb (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each of the 3 stitches cast on and 3 stitches on each side of these) = 22 stitches. Continue A.11 in the round and decrease as shown in the diagram. After all the decreases, there are 8 stitches left on the needles. Cut the strands, pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten the strands and fasten well.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on and work in the same way as for the left mitten until the rib has been completed and you have increased to 52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next round as follows: Work A.10 (= 26 stitches), then A.13 (= 26 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When you have worked as far as the 3 black squares in the diagram, work A.11 onwards over these 3 stitches for the thumb gusset, the remaining stitches are continued as before in A.10 and A.13.
When A.11 has been worked up to and including round 13 (marked with triangle in the diagram) and you have increased 5 times in each side on the thumb gusset as shown in the diagram, place the 13 thumb-gusset stitches on 1 thread, work to end of round = 49 stitches.
The last round in A.13 is worked as follows: Continue A.10 over the first 26 stitches, work the first stitch in A.13, cast on 3 new stitches on the needle over the stitches on the thread and work the remaining 19 stitches in A.13 = 52 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: Continue A.10 over the first 26 stitches and work A.12 over the next 26 stitches. Continue the pattern in this way and decrease as shown in the diagrams. After all the decreases, there are 12 stitches left on the needles. Cut the strands, pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten the strands and fasten well. The mitten measures approx. 26 cm / 10¼" from top down. Knit thumb in the same way as for the left mitten.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with dark rose
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side with dark rose
symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with light beige
symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side with light brown
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with dark rose, on the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes
symbols = increase/decrease here
symbols = stitch for thumb gusset – work diagram A.11 over these stitches
symbols = knit 2 together with light beige
symbols = knit 2 twisted together with light beige
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together with light beige, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = thumb gusset ends here
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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181-1 c Rosendal Mittens

@struppine, Swaziland

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Mari wrote:

Denne er nydelig! Dessverre enda en ovenfra g ned- oppskrift. Jeg vet det skal gå an å snu det, men det er mye styr med det.

25.08.2023 - 15:25

country flag Tove Gjerde wrote:

Er målene på skissen inkludert bevegelsesvidde?

23.03.2023 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tove, Ved å bruke målene i skissen får du snittet som er vist i bildet. God fornøyelse!

24.03.2023 - 06:51

country flag Tove Gjerde wrote:

Jeg synes det er vanskelig å finne målene til de forskjellige størrelsene i oppskriftene. Hun som skal ha jakken er 89 cm rundt brystet og 91 cm rundt hoften. Hvilken Str tilsvarer det og hvordan ser jeg det.? Jeg har strikket siden jeg var 5 år og har normalt ikke problemer med oppskriftene. Hvorfor ikke sette målene sammen med Str ? Mvh Tove Gjerde

22.03.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tove, Du finner en målskisse på bunnen av oppskriften, med alle målene til de forskjellige størrelser. God fornøyelse!

23.03.2023 - 08:31

country flag Martine wrote:

Volgens het patroon moet je voor het boord onderaan het vest steken meerderen. Dan wordt het boord bij mij veel te los, dan gaat het golven. Moet je niet minderen?

14.05.2021 - 10:02

country flag Marion Van Der Form wrote:

Staat op het telpatroon alleen de heengaande naald vermeld of ook de teruggaande naald? Kan het nl nergens vinden

21.10.2020 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

In de telpatronen staan alle naalden aangegeven, dus zowel de heengaande als de teruggaande naalden.

22.10.2020 - 08:07

country flag TALLEMANT wrote:

Les dimensions ne collent pas avec les explications. La 1e partie de l'empiėcement (3A) en taille M qui fait 56 rangs devrait mesurer 20 cm et non 14 comme indiqué. De plus, quand le 2e dessin (A4) (62rgs) est fini, l'ouvrage est trop long de16 cm. Merci de me venir en aide. J'ai malheureusement déjà bien avancé.

13.05.2018 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tallemant, avez-vous la bonne tension en hauteur? soit 30 rangs = 10 cm. A.3A en taille M ne fait que 27 rangs pas 56 (tous les rangs figurent dans le diagramme, ceux sur l'endroit et ceux sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

14.05.2018 - 11:17

country flag Veronika Drotleff wrote:

Hallo...kann da leider nicht mehr weiter,es geht um die Aufteilung von Maschen vom Rumpfteil und Ärmel.....

07.04.2018 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Drotleff, welche Größe stricken Sie? Haben Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl für Ihre Größe?

09.04.2018 - 09:43

country flag Marie wrote:

Or to decrease at the beginning of the row?

25.10.2017 - 22:29

Marie wrote:

If the buttonhole is to be on the right band, should the instructions say to decease while on the wrong side row, not from the right side?

25.10.2017 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marie, buttonholes are on the right front band, you are working the jacket top down, ie from RS start with left front piece and finish with right front piece, buttonholes will be worked at the end of a RS row. Happy knitting!

26.10.2017 - 09:51

country flag Luella wrote:

Tremendous things here. I'm very satisfied to peer your post. Thanks so much and I'm taking a look forward to touch you. Will you kindly drop me a e-mail?

02.08.2017 - 02:01