DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 178-63
DROPS Safran. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-253
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 17, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 for the garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for the sides on the body):
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased).
----------------------------------------------------------

TOP:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle up to the armhole, then the front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles and the sleeve cap is worked back and forth.

BODY:
Loosely cast on 336-360-384-408-432-456 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. The next round is worked as follows: A.1A (= 13 stitches), work A.1B (= 24 stitches) 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width, A.1C (= 11 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When A.1 has been completed, there are 280-300-320-340-360-380 stitches on the round.
The next round is worked as follows: A.2A (= 11 stitches), work A.2B (= 20 stitches) 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width, A.2C (= 9 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.2 has been completed there are 308-330-352-374-396-418 stitches on the round.
The next round is worked as follows: A.3A (= 12 stitches), work A.3B (= 22 stitches) 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width, A.3C (= 10 stitches). Continue the pattern in this way. When the diagrams have been completed in height there are 252-270-288-306-324-342 stitches. The piece measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'' in all sizes.

Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round and after 126-135-144-153-162-171 stitches (= in the sides) – allow the marker threads to follow in the piece upwards. Continue by working stockinette stitch and on the first round decrease 2 stitches in each side – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way approx. every 3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-6th-9th round a total of 12-12-11-10-7-5 times in each side. After all the decreases, there are 204-222-244-266-296-322 stitches. Knit one round where you decrease 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on the round = 202-222-242-266-294-322 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 35-37-38-40-41-43 cm / 13 3/4"-14½"15"-15 3/4"-16"-17''. Now work A.4 over the middle 11 stitches on the front piece (arrow in the diagram shows the middle stitch on the front piece), AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'' bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches in each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker threads) for the armholes. Place the 93-103-111-123-135-149 stitches for the back piece on a thread. The front and back pieces are now worked back and forth and worked separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 93-103-111-123-135-149 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch, A.4 and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches in each side of the piece for the armholes. Bind off stitches at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: bind off 3 stitches 0-1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-5-7-7 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-3-4-6 times = 83-87-89-91-93-97 stitches remaining. When A.4 has been completed in height, work stockinette stitch over these stitches.
When the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-18½"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20½'' place the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: bind off 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 22-24-24-25-25-27 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', knit 1 row from the wrong side and loosely bind off in knit from the right side. Repeat on the other shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
= 93-103-111-123-135-149 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches in each side for the armholes as for the front piece = 83-87-89-91-93-97 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm / 17¼''-18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼'' work pattern according to diagram A.4 over the middle 11 stitches (arrow in the diagram shows the middle stitch on the back piece – the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side).
When A.4 has been completed work stockinette stitch over these stitches to finished length. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'' bind off the middle 35-35-37-37-39-39 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue to bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: bind off 1 stitch 2 times = 22-24-24-25-25-27 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', knit 1 row from the wrong side and loosely bind off while knitting from the right side. Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 67-73-81-87-95-101 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.5 (On the 7th round in the diagram, knit the last stitch on the round). After A.5 change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
Now work pattern and bind off for the armholes and sleeve cap as follows:
NOTE: In sizes S and M start pattern A.4 before binding off for the sleeve cap. In sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL start pattern A.4 after you have started binding off for the sleeve cap!

When the piece measures 12-13-14-15-15-16 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-5½"-6"-6"-6 1/4" work pattern according to diagram A.4 over the middle 11 stitches (arrow in the diagram shows the middle stitch on the round) – the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-14-13-13-12-11 cm / 5½"-5½"-5"-5"-4 3/4"-4½" bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches mid under the sleeve and the sleeve cap is worked back and forth with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.4 over the middle 11 stitches and bind off for the sleeve cap in each side as follows (NOTE: When A.4 has been completed work stockinette stitch over these stitches): bind off 3 stitches 1 time in all sizes, 2 stitches 3-3-3-4-4-5 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-5-6-6 times in each side, continue by binding off 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 20-21-21-22-22-22 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4", then bind off 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining stitches, the sleeve measures approx. 21-22-22-23-23-23 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9"-9". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeves to the body. Sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the front and back pieces and inside the bind-off edge on the sleeves.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 110 to 120 stitches around the neck with short circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Then bind off in knit (make sure the binding off is not tight).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = Bubble: Knit 1 in front and back of the same stitch until there are 5 stitches, work 4 rows stocking stitch over these 5 stitches, then pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the outermost stitch, pass the third stitch over the outermost, fourth stitch over the outermost and finally the fifth stitch over the outermost (= 1 stitch left)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-63

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Trix wrote:

Ik brei niet met rondbreinaalden maar met naalden met knop. A1 begint met 4 omslagen. Hoe doe je dat als die niet tussen steken zitten?

23.03.2023 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Trix,

Als je niet op de rondbreinaald breit, en de panden los van elkaar heen en weer breit, zet je aan elke zijkant 1 extra steek op als kantsteek. Deze kantsteken worden weggewerkt bij het in elkaar zetten van het werk.

24.03.2023 - 19:15

country flag Eva-Britt Gundersen wrote:

Kan jeg bruke pandora bomullsgarn til denne modellen?

26.04.2022 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva-Britt, Det er avhengig av tykkelsen på garnet og om det er likt med Drops Safran. Uansett, er det lurt å strikke en prøvelapp før du begynner og justere pinnestørrelsen hvis nødvendig. God fornøyelse!

27.04.2022 - 07:01

country flag Unni wrote:

Hei igjen, jeg strikker str.M. Jeg trenger en grundig forklaring av 11. runden ( omgangen ). Vennlig hilsen Unni.

14.06.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Unni, 11.omgang (jeg udgår fra at du mener A.1) strikkes således: A.1A: (1r,1oms) x 3, 2 sammen x 4, A.1B: 1r, (2sammen) x 4, (1oms, 1r) x 5, 1oms, 2sammen x 4 gentag A.1B og sidst A.1C: 1r, 2sammen x 4, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 1r, 1oms. Det vil sige du får 2 masker mindre i hver rapport af A.1B, sæt gerne et mærke imellem rapporterne :)

16.06.2021 - 12:29

country flag Miep wrote:

Als je zoals hier veel steken moet opzetten kan het handig zijn om na bv elke 50 steken een kort draadje van afstekende kleur tussen de steken te leggen. Raak je de tel kwijt hoef je niet zo ver terug . Met vriendelijke groet , Miep van de Graaf

13.06.2021 - 15:41

country flag Unni wrote:

Jeg mente den 11. runden, og da gjelder det selvfølgelig også runde nr.12. Det er for mange masker i A1B.

11.06.2021 - 16:00

country flag Unni wrote:

Jeg har spurt om hjelp til den 12. runden i dette mønsteret A1. Dere har sagt til en annen at det skal være 12m. i A1A, 22m. i A1B og 10m. i A1C i runde 7 i mønsteret. Det stemmer, og dere sier videre at det skal være 11m. i A1A, 20m. i A1B og 9 m. i A1C, men det stemmer overhodet ikke ikke. Kan dere være så snille å sjekke dette? Jeg har ventet en stund på mitt første spørsmål angående runde 12, så nå håper jeg på et raskt svar. Unni.

11.06.2021 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Unni. Husk å hake av for spørsmål når du sender inn et spørsmål du venter svar på. Ser at du har sendt inn 2 Kommentarer og disse blir ikke besvart. Når du sender inn et spørsmål er det fint om du oppgir hvilken størrelse du strikker, så kan vi dobbeltsjekke om det er noe feil med den størrelsen du strikker. Uten å vite hvilken str. du strikker, kan det være at du ikke strikker siste maske i A.1B sammen med første maske i A.1B når rapporten av A.1B skal gjentas? mvh DROPS design

14.06.2021 - 13:29

country flag Unni wrote:

Hei, jeg får ikke mønsteret til å stemme på rad nr.11. Slutten av A.1B er vanskelig å forstå. Jeg trenger å bli forklart hvordan jeg skal strikke hele den raden. Vennlig hilsen Unni.

07.06.2021 - 14:35

country flag Anna wrote:

Buon giorno, io ho iniziato il 3 diagramma, non capisco cosa devo fare dalla terza riga in poi alla metà di A.3B dove non ci sono caselle. Grazie

01.09.2020 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, deve lavorare il motivo come si presenta, nella riga 2 le maglie vengono diminuite, quindi deve semplicemente lavorare i quadratini. Buon lavoro!

01.09.2020 - 22:53

country flag Petra Meyer wrote:

Hallo ich komme mit der Runde 12 von A1 nicht klar bei mir verschiebt sich das Muster immer nach links. Ich weiß auch nicht welches die letzte Masche von A1B ist. Wäre schön wenn ich Hilfe bekommen könnte

27.08.2019 - 18:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meyer, nach 7. Reihe sind es nur noch 12 M in A.1A, 22 M in jedem A.1B und 10 M in A.1C - nach 11. Reihen sind es nur noch 11 M in A.1A, 20 M in jedem A.1B und 9 M in A.1C. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2019 - 08:32

country flag Giovanna wrote:

Ciao, ho iniziato a lavorare questa maglia e al momento ho finito i diagrammi A1, A2 e A3... mi viene però adesso un dubbio (guardando la foto del modello)... ho lavorato fino alla fine del diagramma A3 a punto legaccio, adesso mi dice di proseguire a maglia rasata, ma dalla foto non si nota uno stacco di lavorazione. È corretto così? Grazie

17.06.2019 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giovanna. Nei diagrammi, i quadrati bianchi diventano maglie rasate, lavorate a diritto sul diritto del lavoro e a rovescio sul rovescio del lavoro. Il lavoro quindi prosegue a maglia rasata senza stacchi nella lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

17.06.2019 - 12:23