Continuing my recent obsession with linen and open front cardigans, I give you this lil piece. No lie, this yarn had been sitting in my stash for a couple years, but I finally found the perfect use for it! (How often does that actually happen?)

Arete is an open front, short sleeve cardigan with simple construction, worked top-down with no shoulder shaping. It is seamless. First the back is knitted then stitches are picked up at the shoulders to form the front pieces. The fronts and back are joined together at the underarm and worked evenly from there.

Designed to be worn with significant positive ease, the actual measurements are about 35.5” across the back with a 7” opening at the front, an 11” armhole, and 22” in total length. Due to the generous size, it can fit anywhere from a 34-54” bust, depending on how much ease you want. Pictured on a 36” bust. This yarn chills out A LOT after blocking, almost increasing by 50% in size. I def recommend that you block your swatch to get a more accurate gauge of the finished product.

A note on the charts: The same stitch pattern is used throughout. However it is divided into 3 different charts. Chart 1 will be used only at the shoulders just after casting on or picking up stitches. Chart 2 is the main repeat of the pattern. I worked this chart 4 times vertically, but if you wish to make the cardigan longer, you can add more pattern repeats. Keep in mind this will affect your yardage though. Finally Chart 3 is worked one time, after you’ve worked all the Chart 2 repeats you want and just before working the edging and casting off. Each chart is also divided into 3 sections. Section A is the main repeat of the pattern. Section B is worked only at the end of the row on the right front. Section C is worked only at the beginning of the row on the left front.

Another note, I always slip the first stitch of every row and knit the last stitch of every row to get a nice even edging. I didn’t include this instruction in the pattern for the sake of simplicity, but it is something you may wish to do.

Finally, the pattern calls for 6 skeins. However, I used almost exactly 5 skeins, frogging my swatch to use in the pattern. If you want to be safe, I definitely recommend having 6 skeins on hand. However, if you’re feeling risky and are careful, you may be able to use only 5.

MATERIALS

Classic Elite, Telluride, 6 skeins

US 6, 24” circular needle

6 stitch markers

Stitch holder or scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

4”= 17 stitches and 28 rows on US 6 in lace pattern after blocking

LACE CHARTS

Chart 1

Chart 2

Chart 3

Legend

 

PATTERN

Back

Cast on 151 stitches. Knit 3 rows.

Next row (right side): knit 3, pm, work Chart 1 Section A 9 times (144 stitches), knit 1, pm, knit 3.

Next row (wrong side): knit 3, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 3.

Next row: knit 3, slip marker, work across Chart 1 Section A as set, knit 1 slip marker, knit 3.

Once Chart 1 has been worked one time vertically, begin working from Chart 2 Section A. Continue to work evenly, keeping the first and last 3 stitches in garter stitch (knitting the wrong sides) and working the chart over the 144 stitches (plus 1 extra) in between. Work until piece measures about 10” unstretched (after blocking, it will relax to about 11”), ending with a wrong side row. Make note of which row you are on. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Right Front

With right side of back facing and starting on armhole edge of wearer’s right shoulder, pick up 64 stitches. Knit 3 rows.

Next row (right side): knit 3, pm, work Chart 1 Section A 3 times (48 stitches), then work Chart 1 Section B once (9 stitches), pm, knit 4.

Next row (wrong side): knit 4, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 3.

Next row: knit 3, slip marker, work across Chart 1 Sections A and B as set, slip marker, knit 4.

Once Chart 1 has been worked one time vertically, begin working from Chart 2 Sections A and B. Continue to work evenly, keeping the first 3 and last 4 stitches in garter stitch (knitting the wrong sides) and working the chart over the 57 stitches in between.  Work until piece measures same as back, ending with a wrong side row. Break yarn and place stitches on hold to be worked later.

Left Front

With right side of back facing and starting on neck edge of wearer’s left shoulder, pick up 64 stitches. Knit 3 rows.

Next row (right side): knit 4, pm, work across Chart 1 Section C once (8 stitches), then work Chart 1 Section A 3 times (48 stitches), knit 1, pm, knit 3.

Next row (wrong side): knit 3, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit 4.

Next row: knit 4, slip marker, work across Chart 1 Sections C and A as set, knit 1, slip marker, knit 3.

Once Chart 1 has been worked one time vertically, begin working from Chart 2 Sections C and A. Continue to work evenly, keeping the first 3 and last 4 stitches in garter stitch (knitting the wrong sides) and working the chart (plus 1 extra) over the 57 stitches in between.  Work until piece measures same as back, ending with a wrong side row. Don’t break yarn. You will now join pieces.

Body

With right sides facing, work in pattern as set across all stitches on left front, then work across all stitches from back piece, then work across all stitches from right front piece, joining them. You should have 279 stitches.

Keep markers in place. You will now work evenly from here, keeping in pattern with garter stitch border at fronts and underarms. Once Chart 2 has been worked vertically 4 times total, begin working from charts 3. Once it have been worked 1 time vertically, work 6 rows in garter stitch across all stitches.

To get a nice edge that is not too tight nor too stretch, bind off as follows:

*Bind off 2 stitches as usual.

To bind off the third stitch: knit 1 (you have 2 stitches on your righthand needle), yarn over, pull those 2 stitches over the yarn over.*

Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.

Finish

Weave in all your ends. Block like crazy. I used a very steamy iron on a low setting and pressed directly onto the knitting. This yarn will stretch A LOT after knitting. Let it go, and let the lace shine!

Share your work with me on Ravelry and on Instagram using #samsweaterz. Happy knitting ya’ll!