DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Verona

Dress with stripes, raglan and vent in the sides, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS 187-1
DROPS design: Pattern w-677
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 60, dark old pink
150-150-150-150-150-200 g color 38, raspberry
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 29, light ice blue
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color 58, powder pink
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 103, dark wash
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 17, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 07, heather
50-50-50-50-100-100 g color 41, mustard
NOTE! Garment worked in one color = 600-700-750-850-900-1000 g Paris.

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edges in garter stitch.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to yoke):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7.3.
In this example increase after approx. every 7th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN (applies to raglan):
See diagram A.1.

STRIPES YOKE:
The stripes are worked in stockinette as follows:
2-2-2-2-2-2 rounds mustard,
5-6-6-8-8-9 rounds light ice blue,
2-4-4-4-6-6 rounds dark old pink,
5-6-6-8-8-9 rounds heather,
2-2-2-2-2-2 rounds mustard,
10-12-14-14-14-16 rounds raspberry,
2-2-2-2-2-2 rounds powder pink,
approx. 4-4-6-6-8-8 rounds in dark old pink, i.e. work stockinette with dark old pink until yoke is done, then work A.2 and A.3 as explained in pattern.

STRIPES BODY:
See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Choose diagram for your size. The stripes are worked in stockinette.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Work until 1 stitch remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of dress):
Begin 5 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of dress):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down until vent begins. Then finish front and back piece back and forth separately until finished measurements. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-88-96-96-102-102 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with dark wash. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-12-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 100-100-108-108-116-116 stitches. Insert 4 marker threads for raglan in the piece as follows: Insert first marker thread after the first 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 20 stitches (= sleeve), insert third marker thread after the next 30-30-34-34-38-38 stitches (= front piece), and insert fourth marker thread after the next 20 stitches (= sleeve), 15-15-17-17-19-19 stitches remain on round after last marker. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work STRIPES YOKE - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above, on each side of the 4 marker threads (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every other round 14-17-18-22-23-26 times in total. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! After last increase there are 212-236-252-284-300-324 stitches on needle.
Continue with stripes yoke without increasing for raglan but to avoid breaking the lace edges along each raglan line when increase is no longer done, work A.1 in every transition between body and sleeve edges (arrow in A.1 marks marker thread in raglan line). When piece measures 16-18-20-22-24-26 cm /6 1/4"-7"-8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4" from cast-on edge mid front, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work with dark old pink as follows: Work the first 31-34-37-41-45-49 stitches (= ½ back piece), slip the next 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 62-68-74-82-90-98 stitches (= front piece), insert the next 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 31-34-37-41-45-49 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn.
Finish body and sleeve edges separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on in each side = 68-74-82-90-100-110 stitches between marker threads. Begin round at the marker thread in the right side of piece (when garment is worn). Work A.2 in the round. When A.2 has been worked, work A.3, then work in stockinette with dark old pink until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from division, decrease 2 stitches in each side - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm / 3/4'' 3 times in total in each side = 124-136-152-168-188-208 stitches. When piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 1½ cm / ½'' 28 times in total in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 43-44-43-44-43-43 cm / 17"-17 1/4"-17"-17 1/4"-17"-17'', divide piece at both marker threads and finish front and back piece separately. Leave the stitches on back piece on the needle or slip them on 1 stitch holder.
Continue with stockinette stitch and stripes as before but work the 3 edge stitches in each side in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. NOTE! When dividing for vent in each side, increases will still remain in each side but now increase inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. After last increase there are 118-124-132-140-150-160 stitches on needle. Work with dark old pink until piece measures approx. 81-84-87-90-93-95 cm / 32''-33''-34¼''-35''-36 5/8''-37 3/8'' from shoulder. Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches and bind off by knitting from right side.
Work back piece the same way.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip the 44-50-52-60-60-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 50-56-60-68-70-76 stitches. Work 2 ridges in the round with dark wash and bind off by knitting. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.04.2018
Added info to work stripes in stockinette.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dark wash
symbols = mustard
symbols = light ice blue
symbols = dark old rose
symbols = heather
symbols = raspberry
symbols = powder pink
symbols = off white
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Kan man bruge både Drops Paris og Drops Muskat til denne model? Mvh Vibeke

17.02.2024 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke, DROPS Paris og Muskat tilhører 2 forskellige grupper med strikkefasthed, så det vil ikke blive jævnt men for løst hvis du strikker den i Muskat...Men vi har søde kjoler i Muskat som du kan følge :)

23.02.2024 - 10:42

country flag Lilian wrote:

Guys am so in-love, with this darling ,i am already doing the same one with wider stripes but am Head over Heels with this sweet dress.

08.04.2023 - 21:00

country flag Charlotta Johansson wrote:

Undrar om de angivna måtten räknas på kroppen eller på plagget?

04.06.2022 - 23:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotta, Måtten i måttskissen är plaggets mått. Se här: Hur man läser måttskissen och väljer storlek

08.06.2022 - 07:40

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo, ich habe gerade mit diesem wunderschönen Kleid begonnen, kann aber Diagramm A1 nicht finden… Liebe Grüße aus Berlin Anne

22.01.2022 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, das Diagramm A.1 finden Sie rechts, neben der Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

23.01.2022 - 10:05

country flag Krystel wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne saisie pas ce qu'il faut faire après les augmentations du raglan : la partie A.1. Par où on commence à mesurer depuis le rang de montage du devant, qu'est-ce que ça veut dire ?

23.02.2021 - 23:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Krystel, le diagramme A.1 se tricote à chaque transition des raglans, les marqueurs doivent être chacun au milieu de chaque A.1 (flèche), vous continuez ainsi la bordure ajouré des augmentations du raglan sans augmenter de mailles. Mesurez l'ouvrage depuis le rang de montage (= depuis que vous avez monté les mailles pour commencer) jusqu'aux mailles sur l'aiguille au niveau du milieu du devant de la robe - comme le schéma l'indique si cela peut vous aider. Bon tricot!

24.02.2021 - 07:54

country flag Anne wrote:

Ein traumhaft schönes Kleid. Ich würde es gern in genau den gleichen Farben nachstricken. Leider stelle ich fest, dass es die Farben gar nicht mehr gibt. Habe ich noch eine Möglichkeit, die gleichen Farben zu bekommen? Schöne Grüße Anne

13.08.2020 - 10:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, alle Farben Paris sind von uns lieferbar - am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden, gerne wird man Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.08.2020 - 15:40

country flag Anette Jensen wrote:

Glem hvad jeg skrev... Griner.. Nu kan jeg godt se pointen i opskriften,- man er jo bare "vant til" at raglan skilles mellem de 2 masker.. :-)

27.06.2020 - 17:24

country flag Anette Jensen wrote:

Der ER altså fejl i opskriften ved ærmerne, som andre har skrevet. Hvis du starter med at have 20 m til ærmer (str. XXL) og skal lave raglan 23 gange i hver side, giver dette 20 + 23 + 23 = 66 m til 1 ærme og ikke 60 som der står i opskriften.

27.06.2020 - 16:53

country flag Inger Calmén Thunström wrote:

Hej, jag hittar inte diagram A1 i mönstret. Har det fallit bort? Vänligen, Inger

17.06.2020 - 02:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger. Du hittar det längst ner, till höger om måttskissen. Mvh DROPS Design

17.06.2020 - 10:19

country flag Joly wrote:

Pour le modele w-677 apres le raglas je comprent pas a .1 (5) comment faire merci

28.12.2019 - 16:27