DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Catch Me If You Can

The set consists of: Knitted head band, neck warmer and wrist warmers with false Fisherman’s Rib variation and cables. The set is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 182-19
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-832
Yarn group B
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For the complete set there will be enough with approx. 300 g DROPS Karisma.
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HEAD BAND:
Size: One-size
Fits head size: approx. 54/58 cm / 21 1/4"/22 3/4''.
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 49-51 cm / 19 1/4"/20''. Width: approx. 9 cm / 3½''.
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g color 69, light gray green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
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NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 65 cm / 25 ½''. Height: approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4''.
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g color 69, light gray green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 18-20 cm / 7"-8''. Length: approx. 21-23 cm / 8 1/4"-9''.
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g for both sizes in color 69, light gray green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4 – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Head band: See diagram A.1.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
Wrist warmers: See diagrams A.4 to A.7.
The diagrams show all the rows in the patterns seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 21 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 3.5.
In this example increase after alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
If you are decreasing, work alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (for the thumb gusset):
Work as far as the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. The next time you are increasing, work as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Continue to increase in this way every 6th round, i.e. you always increase on the outside of the increased stitches.
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HEAD BAND:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle and is sewn together mid back.
Cast on 21 stitches with needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Karisma. Knit 1 row (= wrong side). Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 6 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 27 stitches. Then purl 1 row from the wrong side with 2 knitted stitches in each side. Continue by working A.1 back and forth until the piece measures approx. 49-51 cm / 19 1/4"-20''. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! You can try the head band on and finish when you have worked 1 or 3 rows after the row of cables. Now knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 6 stitches evenly on row = 21 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and bind off in knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the cast-on edge to the bind-off edge with grafting stitches.
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NECK WARMER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up.
Cast on 135 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Karisma. Knit 1 round. Then work A.2 (= 3 repeats of 45 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, there are 147 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 3 cm / 1''. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work A.3 (= 3 repeats of 49 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue A.3 until the piece measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' – finish when you have worked approx. 2 rounds after the round with cables. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. The next round is worked as before, but over each cable decrease 2 stitches by knitting the 2 first and 2 last stitches in each cable together (= 12 stitches decreased) = 135 stitches. Work A.2 in the round (= 3 repeats of 45 stitches). When A.2B has been completed, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch at the same time as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The neck warmer measures approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' from the top down.
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LEFT WRIST WARMER:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 51-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Karisma. Knit 1 round. The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round. When the rib measures 3 cm / 1'' work the next round as follows: Knit the first 4 stitches and decrease, at the same time, 2-1 stitches evenly over these 4 stitches, work A.4 (= 17 stitches which are decreased to 16 stitches), knit the remaining 30-33 stitches and decrease at the same time 8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches = 40-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next round as follows: 2-3 stitches stockinette stitch, A.5 (= 16 stitches), 22-25 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 11-12 cm / 4½"-4 3/4'' insert 1 marker thread in the last stitch on the round. On the next round increase for the thumb gusset on each side of the stitch with the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th round a total of 4 times (you always increase on the outside of the increased stitches so that you get a gusset for the thumb) = 48-52 stitches. After the last increases the piece measures approx. 18-19 cm / 7"-7½''. Continue the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the last increases, place the 9 thumb-gusset stitches on a thread, in addition cast on 2 new stitches on the needle over the stitches on the thread = 41-45 stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and A.5 until the piece measures approx. 18-20 cm / 7"-8'' (there are now 3 cm / 1'' left before the finished length – you can try the wrist warmer on, work to desired length and finish when you have worked approx. 2 rounds after a round with cables). Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work the next round as follows: Knit the first 2-3 stitches and increase at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 16 stitches of A.5 and increase at the same time 1 stitch over A.5, knit the next 22-25 stitches and increase at the same time 7-7 stitches evenly over these stitches = 51-54 stitches. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole wrist warmer measures approx. 21-23 cm / 8 1/4"-9''.

THUMB:
Place the 9 stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit up 6 new stitches at the back of the thumb (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in each of the 2 stitches which were cast on + 2 stitches on each side of these 2 stitches) = 15 stitches. Work 3 rounds stockinette stitch (make sure the thumb is not worked too tightly). Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 3-3½ cm / 1"-1 1/4''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on 51-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit 1 round. The next round is worked as follows: * Purl 2, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round. When the rib measures 3 cm / 1'' work the next round as follows: Knit the first 30-33 stitches and decrease at the same time 8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.6 (= 17 stitches which are decreased to 16 stitches), knit the last 4 stitches and decrease at the same time 2-1 stitches evenly over these 4 stitches = 40-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work the next round as follows: 22-25 stitches stockinette stitch, A.7 (= 16 stitches), 2-3 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue pattern in this way. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 11-12 cm / 4½"-4 3/4'' insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round. On the next round increase for the thumb gusset on each side of the stitch with the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 6th round a total of 4 times (i.e. you always increase on the outside of the increased stitches so that you get a gusset for the thumb) = 48-52 stitches. After the last increases the piece measures approx. 18-19 cm / 7-7½''. Continue the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after the last increases, place the 9 thumb-gusset stitches on a thread, in addition cast on 2 new stitches on the needle over the stitches on the thread = 41-45 stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and A.7 until the piece measures approx. 18-20 cm / 7"-8'' (adjust to match the left wrist warmer). Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work the next round as follows: knit the first 22-25 stitches and increase at the same time 7-7 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 16 stitches in A.7 and increase at the same time 1 stitch over A.7 and knit the last 2-3 and increase 2-1 stitches evenly over these stitches = 51-54 stitches on the needle. Work rib in the round (= purl 2 / knit 1) for 3 cm / 1''. Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole wrist warmer measures approx. 21-23 cm / 8 1/4"-9''. Work the thumb in the same way as for the left wrist warmer.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 1 in the stitch from the previous row, i.e. insert the right needle through the stitch from the previous row, make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over through the stitch and slip this stitch and the first stitch sitting on the left needle off the needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = work 1 stitch in front and back of same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Svenja wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Diagramm A1 Wenn in diesem Diagramm Hin- und Rückreihen dargestellt sind und linke Maschen in Rückreihen rechts gestrickt werden sollen, warum sind dann z.B. die 4. und 5. Maschen immer links eingezeichnet? Müßten diese in Rückreihen nicht rechts gestrickt werden?

16.11.2023 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Svenja, die leere Kästchen werden rechts bei den Hinreihen gestrickt, aber die 2 ersten und letzten Maschen in A.1 werden Krausrechts gestrickt: rechts bei den Hinreihen und rechts bei den Rückreihen (2. Symbol). So beginnt A.1 mit 2 Krausrechte Maschen, 1 tiefgestochene Masche, 2 Maschen links und endet mit 2 Maschen links, k 1 tiefgestochene Masche und 2 Krausrechte Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2023 - 08:27

country flag Jane wrote:

Ni kan ta bort min tidigare fråga. Jag hittade en viseo hur man gör en dubbelmaska. Om ni skriver i diagrammet att det gäller en dubbelmaska (vid den fyllda rutan) så hade det varit en självklarhet att koppla det till rätt video. Jag menar att ni skriver ju ut rät maska och avig maska så det vore en hjälp att också skriva ut dubbelmaska. Jag trodde att en dubbelmaska var när man stickar ihop två maskor till en.

21.11.2022 - 09:41

country flag Jane wrote:

HJÄLP! Jag förstår inte hur man gör den maska som är markerad med helsvart ruta i diagrammet. Jag har gjort det förut men när jag ska fortsätta på en gammal stickning så har jag GLÖMT hur man gör och jag hittar ingen info någonstans i form av tex en video. Snälla svara snabbt!

21.11.2022 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jane. Så bra at du fant ut av det selv. Hjelpevideoene er som regel generelle videoer og skal være til mange forskjellige oppskrifter. Noen med og noen uten diagram, noen har med selve ordet dobbeltmaske, mens andre ikke bruker ordet. God fornøyelse videre med strikkingen. mvh DROPS Design

21.11.2022 - 13:12

country flag Irena wrote:

Witam. Robię mitenki i nie pasuje mi oczko nr 3 i nr 14 schematu A5. Jest przerabiane jako oczko lewe, a w kolejnym rzędzie jako oczko prawe z wbiciem drutu w poprzednie. Czy schemat jest poprawny? Czy oczko poprzedniego rzędu, w które wbijamy drut nie powinno być oczkiem prawym?

29.09.2022 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Ireno, wszystko jest w porządku, przerabiaj zgodnie ze schematem. Na prawej robótki wbijasz drut pod oczkiem lewym - czyli de facto wbijasz drut, ale w oczko prawe (1 rząd poniżej). Pozdrawiamy!

30.09.2022 - 09:50

country flag Judith wrote:

I am knitting the left wrist warmer but I do not understand the instructions “Knit the first 4 stitches and decrease, at the same time, 2-1 stitches evenly over these 4 stitches”

11.02.2021 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Judith, This means that if you are working the smaller size, you decrease the 4 stitches to 2, if you are working the larger size you decrease the 4 stitches to 3. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

12.02.2021 - 07:49

country flag Birgitta wrote:

Enligt diagrammet ska man sticka maskan ovanför den svarta rät från avigsidan.... men det blir galet när man sen ska sticka dubbelmaskan. Bättre att göra den ovanför avig från avigsidan (eller rät från rätsidan)

31.01.2021 - 09:23

country flag Karen Harvey wrote:

Hi, would you please consider writing the stitch names in the key please? For example, the black square in the key is a "double stitch", people seem to have trouble figuring this out from the explanation. If you called it "double stitch" before the explanation they would know to look for the video.

04.12.2020 - 01:07

country flag Celine C wrote:

Bonjour,\r\nConcernant les mitaines comment savoir si on doit faire la taille S/M ou M/L ?\r\nAvez vous des tailles en rapport et qu\'elle partie de la main à mesurer?\r\nCordialement

25.09.2020 - 15:05

country flag Anna wrote:

Det var väldigt svårt att förstå utifrån beskrivningen hur man skulle sticka den helsvarta rutan. Hade det inte funnits en fråga (med en film som svar och som sa vad denna maska kallades) så hade jag inte kunnat förstå. Annars ett fint mönster!

27.11.2019 - 16:22

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Ich möchte das Stirnband stricken und finde die Anleitung zweideutig.Wenn ich die Anleitung von rechts nach links und in der nächsten Reihe von links nach rechts lesen soll, weshalb muss ich dann auch noch die Maschen umdenken?Habe ich nun am Rand auf der Außenseite später lauter rechte oder lauter linke Maschen oder kraus rechts, also abwechselnd eine Reihe rechts und eine Reihe links? Ich weiß nicht warum hier die Anweisung so kompliziert ist und auf dem Foto kann ich es nicht sehen.

01.10.2019 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dagmar, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh Hin- sowie Rückreihen, wie sie von der Vorderseite aussehen. Wenn Sie dan A.1 stricken, werden alle leere Kästchen rechts bei den Hinreihen (in jeder 1., 3., 5., usw Reihe) und dann aber links bei den Rückreihen (selben Reihen), das - wird links bei den Hinreihen gestrickt und dann rechts bein den Rückreihen. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.10.2019 - 13:26