DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Early May

Knitted jacket with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS 187-21
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-717
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g color 10, peach

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows of stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows of stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) N0 521: 8 items for all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round - for sleeve):
1 ridge = Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. Knit the yarn over on the next row = hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 2, 8, 14, 20, 27, 34, 41 and 48 cm
M: 2, 8, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43 and 50 cm
L: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 52 cm
XL: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 38, 46 and 54 cm
XXL: 2, 9, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm
XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm

DECREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 223 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 29) = 7.3. In this example work approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together; do not decrease over the bands.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for the sides):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Decrease 2 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves.
Decrease as follows from the right side:
Start 3 stitches before the marker and work as follows: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
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JACKET:
The body is worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, then the sleeves and body are put on same needle and the yoke is worked back and forth with decreases to raglan.

BODY:
Cast on 223-241-259-289-313-343 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows – from the right side: 5 stitches GARTER STITCH– see description above, rib (knit 3 /purl 3) until there are 8 stitches left on the row, knit 3 and 5 stitches in garter stitch. Work BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. Continue with rib until the piece measures 3 cm / 1'', knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 29-31-33-39-39-45 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 194-210-226-250-274-298 stitches on needle. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side (= bands). Insert 2 marker threads in the piece, 51-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in from each side (back piece = 92-100-108-120-132-144 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased), decrease every 7 cm / 2¾'' a total of 4 times – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 178-194-210-234-258-282 stitches. When the piece measures 30-30-31-32-32-32 cm / 11 3/4"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-12½'' bind off for armholes in each side as follows: Work until there are 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches left before the first marker thread in the side, bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work until there are 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches before the marker thread in the other side, bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches and work to end of row. There are now 76-84-90-102-112-124 stitches on the back piece and 43-47-50-56-61-67 stitches on each front piece. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 47-49-51-53-55-57 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round. Then work as follows: Knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches, A.1 (= 29 stitches), knit 9-10-11-12-13-14 stitches. Continue this pattern upwards, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6-6-8-8-8-6 cm / 2½"-2½"-3"-3"-3"-2½'' increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase every 3½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-7/8"-½"-½"-½"-½'' a total of 10-14-18-18-19-20 times = 67-77-87-89-93-97 stitches. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 42-41-40-40-38-37 cm / 16½"-16"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15"-14½'', (NOTE! Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer raglan decrease and wider neck) bind off 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of the marker thread = 59-69-77-79-81-85 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you bind off stitches for the armholes = 280-316-344-372-396-428 stitches. Insert 1 marker in all the transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 markers). Continue with stockinette stitch over the stitches on the body, garter stitch on the bands and pattern and stockinette stitch as before on the sleeves, AT THE SAME TIME on the next row, start the decreases to RAGLAN – see description above (= 8 stitches decreased). Decrease every 4th row 11-10-8-8-9-8 times, then every 2nd row 7-12-17-19-20-24 times (a total of 18-22-25-27-29-32 times). After all decreases to raglan there are 136-140-144-156-164-172 stitches left on the needle. Work 2 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row of the ridges, decrease 30-30-30-36-38-42 stitches evenly – remember DECREASE TIP-1 = 106-110-114-120-126-130 stitches. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under the sleeves. Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 4 stitches twisted together
symbols = knit 4 stitches together
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Ina wrote:

Lt. Schnitt hat das Modell sowohl vorn als auch hinten einen Halsausschnitt, vorn um 4 cm kürzer. In der Anleitung finde ich aber keinen Hinweis darauf, meiner Meinung nach fehlt da was. Viele Grüße Ina

08.12.2023 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ina, die 4 cm in der Maßskizze sind für die Schulter, Maßskizze ist hier standard, die Halsausschnitt wird hier genausogleich vorne und hinten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.12.2023 - 07:08

country flag Joke wrote:

21 steken = 10 cm (2x 44) 88 cm =185 steken + 5 van de bies = 190 steken Klopt het patroon wel? Opzetten: 223 steken Het scheelt 15 cm, wordt zo veel wijder Joke

17.01.2021 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

Na het breien van de boordsteek minder je steken verdeeld, waardoor je wel weer op het juiste aantal uitkomt, passend bij de stekenverhouding, hoewel ietsje meer steken dan jouw berekening.

17.01.2021 - 19:33

country flag Katka wrote:

Dobrý deň, vo vzore A1 jeden riadok u pletiem podľa vzoru v diagrame a druhy len prepletiem alebo idem presne podľa diagramu?

22.09.2019 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, postupujete podle schématu - jsou v něm zakresleny lícové i rubové řady. Vzor je zobrazen tak, jak vypadá při pohledu z lícové strany. Hodně pohody při pletení! Hana

22.09.2019 - 20:47

country flag Fatterné Adamek Ildikó wrote:

A minta leírásában a testrész kezdésénél az első szaporítás valójában fogyasztás?

09.09.2019 - 19:18

country flag Debbie Legault wrote:

As far as I can make out, you only present finished measurements. I don't know how to figure out what size to make for a Canadian Size Large, any advise would help. I really don't want to put so much time into knitting it and it not fit.

31.03.2019 - 00:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Legault, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the ones in the chart to find out the matching size. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

01.04.2019 - 13:00

country flag Pani wrote:

Die Passe bin ich dabei und es sieht gut aus. Aber 316 maschen zu 140 maschen ist es für mich schwierig, weil nur maximal 17x Raglanabnahmen gestrickt werden. Sonst die Raglanabnahmen das Ärmel-muster überlappen. Oder habe ich Raglanabnahmen falsch gestrickt, im vergleich zu bilder? Können Sie mir bitte erklären und empfehlen, wie ich reibungslos weiter stricken kann?

07.01.2019 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Pani, Sie nehmen 8 Maschen für den Raglan ab - siehe RAGLANABNAHMEN: in jede 4. Reihe 10 x und in jede 2. Reihe 12 x = es werden 10+12= 22 x 8 M = 176 Maschen abgenommen, so haben Sie 316 - 176 = 140 M übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.01.2019 - 09:20

country flag Angatahi wrote:

Bonjour, combien mesure le gilet?

08.11.2018 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Angatahi, vous trouverez toutes les mesures pour chaque taille dans le schéma des mesures à la fin des explications - d'autres infos sur les tailles et les mesures ici. Bon tricot!

09.11.2018 - 08:02

country flag PS wrote:

Ich bin am Anfang oder 1. Reihe der Passe (316 Maschen sind auf meinem Nadel).Aber ich kann die Anleitung nicht nachvollziehbaren,wie ich zu 140 Maschen kommen kann.Mit der größe M sollte die 22 mal (22×8=176 maschen abzunehmen) Raglanabnahmen gestrickt werden, ich kann leider nur bis einer länge von 16 cm, NICHT 22 cm. Sollte ich die 316 Maschen ohne abnehmen bis einer Länge von 6 cm weiterstricken und danach fange ich Raglanabnahmen an? Ich bitte bei Ihnen um die detaillierte Erklärung.

17.10.2018 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe PS, wenn Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe nicht genau stimmt, dann können Sie regelmäßig Reihen ohne Abnahmen zwischen den Raglanabnahmen Reihen stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.10.2018 - 10:01

country flag Edith wrote:

Mit jelent az SZO? Nem ertem az alabbi akat...mit jelent sikban kotve? BORDA / LUSTAKÖTÉS (oda-vissza haladva - síkban - kötve). 1 borda= 2 sima szemekkel kötött sor. ? BORDA/ LUSTAKÖTÉS: (körben kötve a kéthegyű kötőtűkön- a két ujjához.) 1 borda = 1 kör sima szemekkel, 1 kör fordított szemekkel.

23.09.2018 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Edit, a SZO = színe oldal. A borda a lustakötés során kialakult bordára utal, ami két sima szemekkel kötött sorból alakul ki, ugyanez körben kötve egy sima szemekkel és egy fordított szemekkel kötött sorból alakul ki. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

30.09.2018 - 09:04

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai les bras plutôt courts et je voulais faire les manches un peu plus courtes (71 cm est beaucoup trop long, il me faudrait 4 cm de moins). Où est-ce que je dois faire ce "raccourci" ? Est-ce que je commence les augmentations plus tard et je les fais plus rapprochées ? Est-ce que je m'arrête plus tôt avant la fin de la manche ? Merci d'avance de vos conseils.

07.09.2018 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, les manches mesurent 42-41-40-40-38-37 cm depuis la séparation d'avec l'empiècement (71 cm depuis le milieu de l'encolure dos jusqu'au poignet) - si vous lez voulez plus courtes, vous pouvez ajuster les diminutions en les faisant plus tôt ou plus fréquemment. Vous pouvez vérifier les mesures finales d'après un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et ajuster en fonction. Bon tricot!

07.09.2018 - 13:52