DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Daisy Delight

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 196-2
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-057
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36 1/4"-39 1/2"-42 1/2"-46 1/2"-51”-56”
Full length: 112-116-120-124-128-132 = 44”-45 3/4"-47 1/4"-50 1/2"-52”
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 41, plum
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 45, lemon punch
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 02, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 40 and 80 cm = 16“ and 32” for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5, length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib and edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Baby Merino 22, 04, 20.
B) DROPS Baby Merino 37, 41, 3.
C) DROPS Baby Merino 38, 46, 09.
D) DROPS Baby Merino 20, 39, 45.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 106 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 26.5. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 26th and 27th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 8 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION:
Insert a marker thread mid back = beginning of round. Begin from right side with plum and work in stockinette stitch until 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches in stockinette stitch. Turn, tighten yarn and work 24-24-24-27-27-30 stitches in stockinette stitch, turn, tighten yarn and work 32-32-32-36-36-40 stitches in stockinette stitch, turn, tighten yarn and work until mid back.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on round) as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at the other marker threads. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 106-110-115-125-130-134 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with plum. Work 5 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-10-15-15-20-26 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 110-120-130-140-150-160 stitches. Knit 1 round (all stitches are knitted twisted to avoid holes). For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION.
Insert 9-10-10-10-11-11 marker threads in piece without working as follows: Insert first marker thread after 7-6-7-7-5-5 stitches, insert each of the next 8-9-9-9-10-10 marker threads after 12-12-13-14-14-15 stitches, 7-6-6-7-5-5 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move the marker threads upwards when working. Now work pattern A.1 (choose diagram for your size) the entire round – read KNITTING TIP, AT THE SAME TIME on every round with arrow in diagram increase on each side of marker threads as follows: REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
ARROW-1: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 128-140-150-160-172-182 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 146-160-170-180-194-204 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 164-180-190-200-216-226 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 182-200-210-220-238-248 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 200-220-230-240-260-270 stitches.
When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm = 4 1/4"-4 3/4"-5”-5 1/2"-6”-6 1/4" from cast-on edge and down mid front. Remove the marker threads. Now work pattern A.2 (= 20-22-23-24-26-27 repetitions of 10 stitches) in the round. On next to last round in A.2 increase 10-12-14-16-12-12 stitches evenly = 290-320-336-352-376-390 stitches. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4"-9”-9 1/2" from cast-on edge and down mid front. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after the first 45-49-51-55-60-64 stitches (= half back piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 90-98-102-110-120-128 stitches (= front piece) and insert 4th marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve). 45-49-51-55-60-64 stitches remain on round after last marker thread (= half back piece).
Now work pattern A.3 in the round, at the same time on first round begin increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase like this every other round 5-6-8-10-11-13 times in total = 330-368-400-432-464-494 stitches. NOTE: When A.3 has been worked vertically 1 time, continue with stockinette stitch until all increases for raglan are done and piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8 3/4"-9 1/2"-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4”-12 1/2" from cast-on edge.
Work next round as follows: 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stockinette stitch (= half back piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 100-110-118-130-142-154 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve edges, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stockinette stitch (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 110-120-130-142-156-170 stitches between marker threads). Continue in the round with plum and in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 4 cm =1 1/2" from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this approx. every 2 cm = 3/4" 12 times in total = 268-288-308-332-360-388 stitches. Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 28 cm =11” from division, increase 8-12-13-13-15-17 stitches = 276-300-321-345-375-405 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work rib * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Work 2 ridges and bind off. Sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4"-23 1/2"-24 1/2"-25 1/4"-26” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 75-84-94-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve and begin round here. Continue with plum and in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd round 13-17-21-22-23-24 times in total = 49-50-52-54-58-61 stitches. Continue until piece measures 40-38-37-35-33-32 cm =15 3/4"-15”-14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13”-12 3/4" from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 2-4-5-6-5-5 stitches evenly = 51-54-57-60-63-66 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Now work rib * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Work 2 ridges and bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit with plum
symbols = knit with off white
symbols = knit with lemon punch
symbols = purl with plum
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = increase round - read explanation in pattern!
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Linda Lavoie wrote:

Dans le modèle 196-2 (Daisy delight), vous dites que quand A-1 a été tricoté 1fois en hauteur, l’ouvrage mesure 13 cm depuis le rang de montage au milieu du devant(dans le large). Est-ce depuis le tout début incluant le col ou depuis le début de A-1 ?

29.02.2024 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lavoie, on doit bien mesurer depuis le rang de montage, autrement dit avec le col et A.1, depuis le tout début de l'ouvrage. Bon tricot!

29.02.2024 - 16:16

country flag Georgia Wilhelmsson wrote:

Hej! Jag ska börja sticka mönster A2 i storlek S, tröjan Daisy Delight men förstår inte symbolerna på första raden. Hur ska jag gå tillväga? Hur många maskor blir det totalt i första raden i A2?

28.10.2023 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Georgia 1.rad i A.2 går over 10 masker (den sorte firkanten er ingen maske). Når du har strikket 1.rad øker du med 2 kast pr gang A.2 strikkes = 12 masker når du skal strikke 2. rad. I str. S skal du ha 200 masker når du har strikket A.1 ferdig, og når du starter på A.2 strikker du A.2 20 ganger (= 10 masker i A.2 x 20 ganger = 200 masker). Sett maskemarkører mellom hver gang du strikker A.2 så har du en bedre oversikt. Bare husk å flytte maskemarkørene når det økes (så på 2. omgang er det 12 maske mellom maskemarkørene, mens når 22. omgang strikkes er det 14 masker mellom hver maskemarkør). mvh DROPS Design

30.10.2023 - 09:18

country flag Sandra wrote:

Im Diagramm A1 bei den Reihen mit den Pfeilen soll zugenommen werden, immer beidseits der Markierungsfäden. Soll das mit Umschlägen gemacht werden, die dann in der nächsten Runde links verschränkt abgestrickt werden?

26.08.2023 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, ja gerne können Sie mit Umschläge zunehmen, dann stricken Sie 1 Masche zwischen jedem Umschlag, so gibt es nicht 2 Umschläge nebeneinander. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2023 - 13:18

country flag Daska wrote:

Hallo, voor maat M staat bij de mouwen: 74 steken op een hulpdraad, dan 10 nieuwe. Dan voorpand en weer 74 op draad en 10 nieuwe. Maar eerst 10 nieuwe en dan 74 op draad is toch logischer qua symmetrie?

17.03.2023 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Daska,

De 74 steken die je op de hulpdraad zet brei je niet, maar laat je eerst links liggen en de 10 steken die je opzet komen onder de oksel, dus aansluitend op het achterpand, daarna brei je de steken van het voorpand, zet je weer 74 steken op een hulpdraad en zet je 10 nieuwe steken op. De 10 nieuwe steken komen dus aan beide kanten onder de oksel en verbinden de voor- en achterpanden met elkaar.

19.03.2023 - 16:39

country flag Miriam S wrote:

Danke für die tolle Anleitung. Muster sehr schön. Leider sind die Zunahmen am Rumpf komplett überflüssig. Hatte nachher eher eine Triangel Form. Beim 2. Versuch gerade runtergestrickt und ist immer noch eher weit. Dafür sind 60cm Gesamtlänge (Gr. L) viel zu kurz.. Zunahmen mit Umschlag machen leider auch Löcher wenn man sie verschränkt abstrickt.

18.10.2022 - 09:05

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hej. I Ryg & Forstykke næst sidste linje: Skift til rundpind 2,5 strik rib * 1 ret, 2 masker retstrik * strik *-* rundt på omgangen 2 cm?? Er det 1 vr og 2 ret eller er det noget med at strikke 2 masker sammen ?? Mvh Yvonne

29.09.2022 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Yvonne, ret strikkes ret fra retsiden på hver pind. Retstrik strikkes rundt ved at omgangene strikkes skiftevis ret og vrang. Det vil sige at første omgang strikkes: 1ret, 2vrang, 1ret, 2vrang osv. Næste omgang strikkes: 1 ret, 2ret, 1ret, 2 ret (altså ret hele vejen rundt) :)

29.09.2022 - 15:17

country flag Annette Nielsen wrote:

Jeg mangler et brystmål på opskriften

14.01.2022 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, du finder målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften, hver finder du også information om hvordan man læser måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

17.01.2022 - 10:10

country flag Annette wrote:

Ik heb de pas gebreid, die is veel te klein uitgevallen, slechts 2 cm tot begin van het patroon. Alles klopt: maat van de naalden (2,5 en 3 mm), de wol (Baby Merino unicolour). Ik krijg mijn hoofd niet eens door de opening. Wat kan er mis zijn? Met vriendelijke groet

14.01.2022 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

Heb je een proeflapje gebreid en gecontroleerd of jouw stekenverhouding klopt met de aangegeven stekenverhouding in het patroon? Pas eventueel de naalddikte aan voor de juiste stekenverhouding. Voor het opzetten kun je ook een dikkere naald gebruiken of 2 naalden gebruiken, zodat de opzetrand losjes is.

16.01.2022 - 14:45

country flag Helle Drewsen wrote:

St xxl A1 er strikket færdig, der er 260 m på rundpinden. A2 mønster, 26 rapporter a 10 m. På næstsidste omgang tages 12 masker ud jævnt fordelt, 272 m. Hvordan bliver det til 376 m??? Tror ikke jeg forstår mønsteret, skal der tages ud i mønsteret?

19.07.2021 - 07:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, husk at du skal tage ud ifølge diagram A.2, 2 udtagninger på første pind x 26 og på pind 24 igen 2 masker ud x 26 = ialt 376 masker

04.08.2021 - 11:57

country flag Veronica wrote:

Excelentemente bien explicado. Lo estoy realizando en talla S y me esta quedando lindisimo.

03.07.2021 - 06:25