DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Carnival

Knitted sweater in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked with Nordic pattern and stripes.

DROPS 196-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-857
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S - M - L - L/XL - XL/XXL - XXL/XXXL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm / 21 ¼"/22"-21 ¼"/22"-22"/22 ¾"-22"/22 ¾"-22 ¾"/23 5/8"-22 ¾"/23 5/8"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 77, light oak
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 50, sea green
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 11, orange
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 47, forest green
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 48, wine red
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 52, dark mustard
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 30, light denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color 33, medium pink

YARN FOR SWEATER:
Sizes: S - M - L – L/XL – XL/XXL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g color 77, light oak
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color 50, sea green
100-100-100-100-100-150 g color 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 47, forest green
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 48, wine red
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color 11, orange
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color 30, light denim blue
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color 52, dark mustard
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 33, medium pink

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm / 21 ¼"/22"-22"/22 ¾"-22 ¾"/23 5/8"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50-50 g color 77, light oak
50-50-50 g color 50, sea green
50-50-50 g color 01, off white
50-50-50 g color 11, orange
50-50-50 g color 48, wine red
50-50-50 g color 52, dark mustard
50-50-50 g color 30, light denim blue
50-50-50 g color 33, medium pink

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

SWEATER:

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch and pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stockinette stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM / US 4: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6: length 40 cm/16" for stockinette stitch and pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: length 40 cm/16" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 4.3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round.
Start from the right side with light oak and knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 48-51-54-57-60-63 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 80-85-90-95-100-105 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in text.
 
PATTERN:
Sweater: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.5 and A.6.
The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
It is also important to maintain the knitting gauge in height, or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small!

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under sleeve): 
Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for top of hat):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-124-128 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and sea green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When you have worked 1 round with sea green change to light oak. Continue the rib until the neck measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½''. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-26-28-28-28-32 stitches evenly on round - read INCREASE TIP = 128-134-140-144-152-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the back of the yoke is slightly higher. You can leave out this elevation; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 2 rounds stockinette stitch with light oak. Then work A.1 in the round. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round with an arrow in A.1, increase evenly on round as described below - remember INCREASE TIP.
On round marked with arrow-1 increase 32-34-36-40-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 160-168-176-184-192-200 stitches (there is room for 20-21-22-23-24-25 repeats of 8 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-2 increase 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches evenly on round = 192-204-216-228-240-252 stitches (there is room for 32-34-36-38-40-42 repeats of 6 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-3 increase 24-30-36-36-42-42 stitches evenly on round = 216-234-252-264-282-294 stitches (there is room for 36-39-42-44-47-49 repeats of 6 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-4 increase 20-26-28-28-30-34 stitches evenly on round = 236-260-280-292-312-328 stitches (there is room for 59-65-70-73-78-82 repeats of 4 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-5 increase 16-20-20-24-24-28 stitches evenly on round = 252-280-300-316-336-356 stitches (there is room for 63-70-75-79-84-89 repeats of 4 stitches).
On round marked with arrow-6 increase 16-16-16-20-24-28 stitches evenly on round = 268-296-316-336-360-384 stitches (there is room for 67-74-79-28-30-32 repeats of 4-4-4-12-12-12 stitches).
When the last row of A.1 is left, the piece measures 23-23-25-27-27-30 cm / 9"-9"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11 ¾" from the cast-on edge mid front.
The last round is worked as follows: Knit 41-44-46-49-54-59 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side mid under sleeve), knit 82-88-92-98-108-118 stitches (= front piece), place the next 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 41-44-46-49-54-59 stitches (= back piece). Cut the strand.
Body and sleeves are now finished separately.

BODY:
= 180-192-204-216-240-264 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the one sleeve and start the round at this marker thread. The first round is worked as follows:
SIZES S - M - L/XL - XL/XXL: Work A.2 in the round (= 15-16-18-20 repeats of 12 stitches). When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round (= 15-16-18-20 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue A.3 as described under ALL SIZES.
SIZES L - XXL/XXXL: Work A.3 in the round (= 17-22 repeats of 12 stitches). Continue A.3 as described under ALL SIZES!
ALL SIZES:
Continue A.3 as described above. AT THE SAME TIME on the round marked with arrow-7 increase 12-16-12-16-16-16 evenly on round = 192-208-216-232-256-280 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27-29-32-35 repeats of 8 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-8 increase 12-8-12-8-8-8 stitches evenly on round = 204-216-228-240-264-288 stitches (there is now room for 34-36-38-40-44-48 repeats of 6 stitches). On the round marked with arrow-9 increase 12-0-12-0-0-0 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 216-216-240-240-264-288 stitches (there is now room for 54-54-60-60-66-72 repeats of 4 stitches). When A.3 has been completed, work A.4 in the round in all sizes (= 9-9-10-10-11-12 repeats of 24 stitches). When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 59-59-61-63-63-66 cm / 23 1/8"-23 1/8"-24"-24 ¾"-24 ¾"-26" from the shoulder down (approx. 33 cm from the division in all sizes). S is now finished, ready for the rib. In the other sizes, repeat A.4 until the piece measures approx. 35-35-35-37-36 cm / 13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-14 ½"-14 1/8" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). NOTE: Finish after a whole stripe or pattern – if you do not want pattern all the way down to the rib, you can continue with stockinette stitch and light oak when you have completed A.4 for the first time.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Knit 1 round with light oak where you increase 56-56-60-60-64-72 stitches evenly on round = 272-272-300-300-328-360 stitches. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight (if the bind-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as you bind off - yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The sweater measures approx. 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 52-60-66-70-72-74 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-68-76-80-84-88 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve, i.e. insert the marker thread in the first stitch after the middle, count 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (= mid-stitch). There are now 29-33-37-39-41-43 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. The marker thread under the sleeve will be used a little later when decreasing and the marker thread on top of sleeve will be used to count where the pattern starts.
READ THE REST OF SLEEVE BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work the last row of A.1 so that A.1 finishes in the same way as the body.
PATTERN:
SIZES S, M, L/XL and XL/XXL: Work A.2 in the round, but make sure that A.2 in L/XL and XL/XXL fits neatly over A.1 on the yoke (you will not get a complete repeat of the pattern under the sleeve).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3, but count out from the mid-stitch where the pattern should start - mid-stitch in A.3 should match the stitch with the marker thread mid top of sleeve (in L/XL and XL/XXL the first 3 rounds in A.3 need to be adjusted so that they fit neatly over A.1/A.2). Continue as described under ALL SIZES!
SIZES L and XXL/XXXL: When the last row in A.1 has been completed, work A.3, but count out from the mid-stitch where the pattern should start - mid-stitch in A.3 should match the stitch with the marker thread mid top of sleeve (in XXL/XXXL the first 3 rounds in A.3 need to be adjusted so that they fit neatly over A.1/A.2). Continue as described under ALL SIZES!
ALL SIZES:
When A.3 has been completed, work A.4, then continue with stockinette stitch and light oak.
DECREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 3-5-6-6-6-7 times and then every 5-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm a total of 6-7-9-10-11-11 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
When the sleeve measures approx. 36-36-35-33-33-31 cm / 14 1/8"-14 1/8"-13 ¾"-13"-13"-12 1/8" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round with light oak where you increase 10-8-10-8-10-8 stitches evenly on round in all sizes = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight (if the bind-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as you bind off - yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-41-39-39-37 cm / 16 ½"-16 ½"-16 1/8"-15 ¼"-15 ¼"-14 ½" from the division and down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 108-108-116 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and sea green. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When you have worked 1 round of rib, change to light oak. Continue the rib until the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the cast-on edge. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly on round = 104-104-112 stitches.
Then work A.5 in the round (= 13-13-14 repeats of 8 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.5 has been completed, work A.6 in the round. A.6 is repeated to finished length. When the piece measures 21-22-23 cm / 8 ¼"-8 5/8"-9" insert 8 marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted at the beginning of the round. The next 7 marker threads are inserted with 13-13-14 stitches between each one.
On the next round, decrease 1 stitch before each of the 8 marker threads – read DECREASE TIP = 8 stitches decrease. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 6-6-5 times and then every round a total of 2-2-4 times = 40 stitches left for all sizes. Knit 2 rounds where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 on both rounds = 10 stitches left for all sizes. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27-28 cm / 10 1/4''-10 5/8''-11'' from the top down.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.05.2022
SLEEVE:... PATTERN: SIZES S, M, L/XL and XL/XXL: Work A.2 in the round but make sure that A.2 in L/XL and XL/XXL fits neatly over A.1 on the yoke (you will not get a complete repeat of the pattern under the sleeve).+ SIZES L and XXL/XXXL:...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light oak
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = orange
symbols = sea green
symbols = off white
symbols = wine red
symbols = medium pink
symbols = forest green
symbols = light denim blue
symbols = increase round
symbols = mid stitch on sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 196-6

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Comments / Questions (125)

country flag Mona Lind wrote:

Hei. Finnes denne som kofte.

28.01.2024 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona, Dessverre har vi ikke akkurat dette mønster som kofte, men her er lenker til 2 kofter som ligner: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=11524&cid=1 https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=1495&cid=1 God fornøyelse!

29.01.2024 - 06:37

country flag Anne Karin Kvalvik wrote:

Hei! Hvilken pinnestørrelse gjelder den oppgitte strikkefastheten for? Hvorfor er denne ulik for genser og lue? På forhånd takk for svar.

24.01.2024 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne Karin, Strikkefasthet er målt med største pinner. Pinnestr er forskjellig for genseren og lua fordi det skal være tettere vev på lua (flere masker og omganger på 10 x 10 cm med mindre pinner). God fornøyelse!

25.01.2024 - 06:44

country flag Joanne wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis un peu confuse avec le tableau A1 et la taille L. Est-ce que je dois suivre le A1 de gauche (S-M-L) ou celui de droite (L-XL...). Merci Joanne

19.01.2024 - 01:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Joanne, tout dépend de la taille que vous avez choisi: si vous avez choisi la taille L (3ème taille), suivez le A.1 de gauche (S, M, L) mais si vous avez choisi la taille L/XL (4ème taille), choisissez le A.1 de droite (L/XL, XL/XXL). Bon tricot!

19.01.2024 - 09:34

country flag Manuela wrote:

Hallo, wie stellt man es am besten an, bei den Farbwechseln in der Runde (dort wo man immer nur eine Runde eine Farbe strickt), einen schönen Rundenübergang zu bekommen? Bei mir bilden sich da unschöne Löcher und bei lediglich1 Runde kann man ja auch nicht die Technik anwenden, bei der Folgerunde das rechte Maschenglied der unteren Maschen aufzunehmen und zusammenzustricken. Mir fällt irgendwie nichts dazu ein...

17.01.2024 - 13:29

country flag Bitta wrote:

Har upptäckt ett fel i winter carnival A1 efter

19.09.2023 - 15:42

country flag Gitte Agerlund wrote:

Jeg har problemer med at skelne symbolerne fra hinanden, har i den forbindelse nok lavet en fejl, måske flere. Skal lige tilføje at jeg har valgt andre farver. Symbolet i A3, over

02.07.2023 - 12:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. Kan ikke se et spørsmål i her. Men det er fort gjort å ikke se forskjellen på symbolene når det er så mange farger / symbol i et diagram, spesielt om man ser på en mobilskjerm. Et tips er å skrive diagrammene ut og forstørre dem og/eller fargelegge symbolene. mvh DROPS Design

03.07.2023 - 11:31

country flag Lone Larsen wrote:

Kunne man på ryg/forstykke ikke få et mål for længde, som er midt for istedet for skulder Hvor er skulderen på et rundt bærestykke?

22.04.2023 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lone. Vi har dessverre ikke tilgang på denne modellen lengre, til å kunne måle bakstykket. Kun de målene du ser på målskissen, som er målt fra skulderen og ned. mvh DROPS Design

24.04.2023 - 14:07

country flag Anna Kjellberg Elfstrand wrote:

Hej! Jag saknar mönsterdiagram A4 till tröjan. Med vänlig hälsning, Anna

05.04.2023 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anna, diagram A.4 ligger nederst til højre i opskriften, lige ovenfor måleskitsen :)

13.04.2023 - 12:30

country flag Judith Borchard wrote:

Ich kann die Anleitung leider nicht ausdrucken. Bei anderen Anleitungen von Drops war das nie ein Problem! Haben Sie einen Tipp?

07.02.2023 - 12:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Borchard, wir könnten gerade diese Anleitung drucken, schauen Sie mal die Druckereinstellungen, oder leeren Sie den Cache/Cookies, vielleicht kann das Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.02.2023 - 13:23

country flag Paraskevi Mygdalia wrote:

Thank you for your quick response!

06.02.2023 - 23:50