DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Warm Joy

Knitted hat in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca + 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted in the round with rib and lace pattern. Knitted neck warmer in 1 strand DROPS Alpaca + 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted in the round with rib and lace pattern.

DROPS 192-24
DROPS design: Pattern z-827
Yarn group A + A or C
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g color 2020, light camel
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 20, light beige

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 cm = 21 1/4”/22”
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 2020, light camel
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25 g color 20, light beige

YARN FOR NECK WARMER:
Measurements: Circumference: 60 cm = 23 5/8” Height: 25 cm = 9 3/4”
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 2020, light camel
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25 g color 20, light beige

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

HAT:

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
1 repetition A.4 measures 8.5 cm = 3 1/4” in width and 6.5 cm = 2 1/2” vertically.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 40 cm = 16” for the hat.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

NECK WARMER:

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
1 repetition A.2 measures 8.5 cm = 3 1/4” in width and approx. 22 cm = 8 3/4” vertically.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 60 cm = 24” for neck warmer.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.4.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit the next 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads on round = 16 stitches decreased on round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Cast on 80 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 (= 16 stitches) 5 times in total on round. Work A.1 2 times in total vertically. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now work pattern A.4 (= 16 stitches) over every repetition of A.1. When A.4 has been worked vertically, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 18 cm = 7” from cast-on edge.

Now insert 8 marker threads in the piece. Insert first marker thread after 10 stitches (i.e. after a knit stitch), then insert the next 7 marker threads 10 stitches apart. Every marker thread is now after a knit stitch.
On next round, decrease 2 stitches before every marker thread (= 16 stitches decreased on round) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 6th round 4 times in total = 16 stitches remain on round. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 26 cm = 10 1/4”.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 112 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work pattern in the round as follows: Work A.1 (= 16 stitches) 7 times in total on round. When A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: A.2 (= 16 stitches) 6 times in total, A.3 (= 16 stitches) 1 time. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue in the round like this until diagrams have been worked vertically. Now work A.1, 7 repetitions in total on round. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = purl
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit the yarn over to make holes.
symbols = insert needle from right side in between 15th and 16th stitch, 1 yarn over at the back of piece, pull yarn through to the right side of piece (= 1 new stitch), work * purl 1, knit 1 * over the next 14 stitches, purl 1 (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = purl stitch increased when yarn was picked up between 15th and 16th stitch on previous round and next stitch (= purl stitch) together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = when 8 stitches remain on round, work from first symbol on next round in A.2
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Fulconis wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Je vais essayer... Bonne journée. Natercia

28.11.2023 - 12:27

country flag Fulconis wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis en train de tricoter le bonnet 192-24. Je ne comprends pas les explications pour avoir la longue maille qui couvre 14 mailles...(piquer l'aiguille en 15ème et 16ème mailles, ....). Serait-il possible svp d'avoir des explications plus précises ou une petite vidéo de ce motif? En vous remerciant par avance pour votre disponibilité. Natercia

28.11.2023 - 08:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fulconis, insérez l'aiguille droite entre la 15ème et la 16ème maille sur l'aiguille gauche (sans tricoter les mailles précédentes), ramenez le fil sur l'endroit (vous avez maintenant 1 maille supplémentaire) et tricotez les 15 mailles suivantes en côtes (1 m env, 1 m end): vous avez désormais 16 mailles sur l'aiguille droite (la maille créée en ramenant le fil et les 15 mailles précédentes. Au tour suivant, vous tricoterez ensemble à l'envers le jeté (= la maille créée au tour précédent) et la maille envers suivante = vous retrouvez votre nombre de mailles initial. Bon tricot!

28.11.2023 - 09:03

country flag Elsi Petrica wrote:

Strikker lue, men forstår ikke diagram i A4. Hva æ gjør med de svarte masker? Håper at dere kan skrive oppskrifter sånn at vi nybegynnere også forstår de. Kan dere forklare litt mer tydeligere og i detalj hvordan A4 strikkes?

20.12.2022 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elsi, den svarte masker betyder hop over denne maske i diagrammet, det vil sige du strikker de 16 masker ifølge første pind i diagrammet, starter med at tage ud, 1vr, 1r osv når du har strikket første pind i diagram A.4 har du 18 masker. God fornøjelse :)

21.12.2022 - 14:35

country flag Goldenstein, Rita wrote:

Meines Erachtens ist der Mustersatz mit 24 Maschen dargestellt, nicht mit 16 Maschen!

10.10.2022 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Goldenstein, alle Diagramme werden über 16 Maschen gestrickt, bitte beachten, daß die schwarze Kästchen keine Maschen sind (diese Maschen wurden noch nicht zugenommen), so wird A.2 so bei der 1. Reihe gestrickt (= 1 Umschlag, (1 M li, 1 M re)x 7, 1 M li, 1 Umschlag, 1 M li) = 16 Maschen + 2 Umschläge: es sind 18 Maschen nach der 1. Reihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.10.2022 - 08:12

country flag Megan wrote:

How do you make a yarn over between two purl stitches? In Diagram A.4 row 1, the 16th stitch becomes a purl stitch now. Do I make a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle one round to make the next purl stitch? In the explanation of the diagram, I don't understand "On next round knit the yarn over to make holes." Does it mean to take the extra loop as a knit stitch? Thank you.

23.08.2022 - 04:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Megan, this video shows how to make a yarn over between 2 purl (or simply when the stitch after the yarn over will be purled). On the next round, knit the yarn over in the back loop of stitch (= twisted) to avoid holes - see time code 2:22 in this video. Happy knitting!

23.08.2022 - 08:11

country flag Megan wrote:

“insert needle from right side in between 15th and 16th stitch, 1 yarn over at the back of piece, pull yarn through to the right side of piece (= 1 new stitch)” Does “pull yarn through to the right side” mean you insert needle from the back of piece to the right side of piece? As you did that before you make the yarn over on the back. Thank you.

21.08.2022 - 06:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Megan, you insert the needle initially from the right side to the back. Then, you make a yarn over in the back and pass this yarn over from the back to the front (right side). Happy knitting!

21.08.2022 - 21:25

country flag ROSSET wrote:

Bonjour Je tenais à vous remercier pour votre gentillesse. Cordialement Françoise ROSSET

28.01.2022 - 13:03

country flag ROSSET wrote:

Je vous remercie. Sur le diagramme A2. Après le 23 rangs , je ne comprends pas les diminutions après avoir piqué l’aiguille entre la 15 mailles. Je suis bloquée. Cordialement Françoise Rosset

26.01.2022 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rosset, ce motif va se faire comme le tout premier (au 7ème rang), mais en quiconque, autrement dit, commencez quand il reste 8 mailles avant la fin du 22ème tour et comptez les 8 mailles de la fin du 22ème tour + les 7 mailles du 1er A.2 du tour = vous êtes bien entre la 15ème et la 16ème maille; tricote les mailles suivantes jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 8 mailles avant la fin de ce A.2 et continuez ainsi en comptant ces 8 dernières mailles + les 7 premières mailles du A.2 suivant. Au tour suivant, les tours recommencent comme avant. Bon tricot!

26.01.2022 - 17:25

country flag ROSSET wrote:

Bonjour \r\nDéjà, je voulais tout d’abord vous remerciez pour votre réponse concernant le bonnet qui est très beau.\r\nPouvez-vous me faire une photo à plat du tour du cou. Car j’ai un problème concernant le diagramme.\r\nEn le regardant, je pense que je comprendrais mieux.\r\nJe vous en remercie.\r\nCordialement \r\nFrançoise ROSSET

26.01.2022 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rosset, nous n'avons pas d'autres photos de ce modèle et nous ne pouvons plus faire de photos car nous ne l'avons plus, en revanche, nous pouvons volontiers vous aider, quelle était votre question à propos du diagramme?

26.01.2022 - 13:27

country flag Rosset wrote:

Bonjour Je voudrais faire le bonnet drops 192-24. Sur le diagramme, A4 les cases noires se tricotes à l’endroit où à l’envers. Je vous remercie. Cordialement Françoise ROSSET

06.12.2021 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rosset, les cases noires dans A.4 ne sont pas des mailles (cf 3ème symbole et légende); car ces mailles ont été diminuées. Autrement dit A.4 se tricote sur 16 m au 1er rang et vous tricotez: 1 jeté, (1 m env, 1 m end) x 7, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 1 m end (= vous avez 18 mailles (et donc 2 cases noires en moins au rang suivant du diagramme), etc. Bon tricot!

07.12.2021 - 07:35