DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

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Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat in DROPD Flora. The piece is worked with a lace pattern and a folded edge in rib.

DROPS 196-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-038
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR THE WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm / 21 ¼"/22"-21 ¼"/22"-22"/22 ¾"-22"/22 ¾"-22 ¾"-/23 5/8"-22 ¾"/23 5/8"
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-500 g color 15, green

YARN FOR THE JACKET:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 15, green

YARN FOR THE HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm / 21 ¼"/22"-22"/22 ¾"-22 ¾"/23 5/8"
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-100 g color 15, green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JACKET:

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
1 repeat of A.3/A.4 measures approx. 8½-8½-8½-11-11-11 cm/3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-4½"-4½"-4½" in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5: length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.
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HAT:

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
1 repeat of A.6 measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: length 40 cm for hat.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5: length 40 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Jacket: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagrams A.6 and A.7.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = bind off third and fourth stitch from edge. On next row cast on 2 new stitches over the bind off stitches.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 4, 12, 20, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm
M: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 51 cm
L: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 53 cm
XL: 4, 12, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm
XXL: 4, 12, 19, 27, 35, 43, 50 and 57 cm
XXXL: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 59 cm
NOTE: The last of these 7-7-7-8-8-8 buttonholes is worked on the neck.


DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body): 
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Start 5 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced on yoke):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 124 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 4.4.
In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch. Do not decrease over the bands.

DECREASE TIP-3 (for hat):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves (i.e. decrease on each side of A.5) = 8 stitches decreased each time.
Decrease as follows before A.5: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.5, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after A.5: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Then the body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke is finished back and forth from mid front.

BODY:
Cast on 286-314-334-374-414-446 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Flora. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read description above, Work A.1A (= 33-33-33-45-45-45 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* a total of 52-59-64-68-78-86 times, knit 2, work A.2A (= 33-33-33-45-45-45 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this for 4 cm / 1½''. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, but work 1 BUTTONHOLE on the band – read description above, work A.1B (= 33-33-33-45-45-45 stitches which decrease to 29-29-29-39-39-39 stitches), work stockinette stitch until there are 38-38-38-50-50-50 stitches left on the row and decrease at the same time 40-46-50-54-62-68 stitches evenly over these stitches (knit together approx. every 4th and 5th stitch), work A.2B (= 33-33-33-45-45-45 stitches which decrease to 29-29-29-39-39-39 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 238-260-276-308-340-366 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 (= 29-29-29-39-39-39 stitches), work stockinette stitch until there are 34-34-34-44-44-44 stitches left on the row, work A.4 (= 29-29-29-39-39-39 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' in all sizes, insert 1 marker thread 66-72-76-86-94-100 stitches in from each side (= 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches between marker threads on the back piece). On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 5 times in each side = 218-240-256-288-320-346 stitches on the row.
When the piece measures 20 cm / 8'' increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP = 4 stitches increased. Increase like this every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 5 times in each side = 238-260-276-308-340-366 stitches.
Continue until the piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' in all sizes. On the next row (wrong side) bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side for the armholes (i.e. Bind off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of both markers). There are now 61-67-70-80-87-92 stitches on each front piece and 96-106-112-124-138-150 stitches on the back piece.
Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves as described below.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles; change to short circular needle when necessary. Cast on 56-60-60-64-68-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Flora. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-12-10-12-12-10 stitches evenly on round = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-8-8-6-6-6 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). On the next round increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 13-15-17-16-13-9 times and then every 1 cm / 3/8'' a total of 2-4-6-8-12-17 times = 76-86-96-100-106-110 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 45-44-42-41-39-37 cm / 17 5/8"-17 ¼"-16 ½"-16 1/8"-15 ¼"-14 ½" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). The next round is worked as follows: bind off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches for the armhole, knit 66-76-84-88-92-94 stitches and bind off the remaining 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 as the body and where you bind off stitches for the armholes (do this without working the stitches) = 350-392-420-460-496-522 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeves = 4 markers.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.3 as before, work stockinette stitch until there are 4 stitches left before the first marker, work A.5 (= 8 stitches – the marker sits in the middle of these 8 stitches), work stockinette stitch over the sleeve until there are 4 stitches left before the next marker, work A.5 (= 8 stitches), work stockinette stitch over the back piece until there are 4 stitches left before the next marker, work A.5 (= 8 stitches), work stockinette stitch over the sleeve until there are 4 stitches left before the next marker, work A.5 (= 8 stitches), work stockinette stitch as far as A.4, continue A.4 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked 2 rows after the body and sleeves were combined, decrease to RAGLAN on the next row from the right side – read description above. Continue to decrease to raglan every 4th row a total of 3 times in all sizes and then every 2nd row a total of 22-26-29-33-36-38 times.
After the last decrease there are 150-160-164-172-184-194 stitches left on the needle. The piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'' from the cast-on edge down mid front.
Knit 1 row where you decrease 26-32-32-32-40-42 stitches evenly on row - read DECREASE TIP-3 = 124-128-132-140-144-152 stitches. Then work neck as described below.

NECK:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit 1 row from the right side and work the last buttonhole on this row.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this for 2 cm / 3/4''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 128-136-144 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Flora. Purl 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 11-13-15 cm / 4 ¼"-5 1/8"-5 7/8" knit 1 round where you decrease 11-13-17 stitches evenly on round - read DECREASE TIP-2 = 117-123-127 stitches. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round and knit 1 round.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work the next round as follows: 45-48-50 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.6 (= 27 stitches), work 45-48-50 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When the piece measures 10 cm / 4'' from the garter stitch edge, insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: The first marker thread is inserted after the first 11-11-11 stitches on the round, 2nd after the next 22-22-23 stitches, 3rd marker thread inserted after the next 51-57-59 stitches and the 4th after the next 22-22-23 stitches. There are now 11-11-11 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread.
Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch as before. AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch on each side of the 4 marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-3 in information for pattern below = 8 stitches decreased on the round. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 10 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when A.6 has been worked a total of 3 times in height in all sizes, work A.7 over the same 27 stitches. When A.7 has been completed and all decreases are finished there are 23-29-33 stitches left on the needle. Knit 2 rounds where you knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-7-8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 28-30-32 cm / 11"-11 ¾"-12 ½" from the top down, including the rib.
Fold half the rib on the bottom edge double towards the right side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.02.2019
Correction - HAT: AT THE SAME TIME when A.6 has been worked a total of 3 times in height in all sizes, work A.7 over the same 27 stitches. When A.7 has been completed and all decreases are finished there are 23-29-33 stitches left on the needle

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs; on the next row purl the one yarn over and drop the other
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Gjertrud wrote:

Hei, jeg fant A-5 nå !

18.09.2022 - 23:07

country flag Gjertrud wrote:

Hei, jeg finner ikke A-5 som henvises til i forbindelse med raglanfelling.

18.09.2022 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gjertrud. Du finner diagram A.5 mellom A.4 (xl-xxl-xxxl) og A.7. Det minste diagrammet, består av 8 masker og 6 rader. mvh DROPS Design

19.09.2022 - 13:55

country flag Konni Plitschka wrote:

Hallo ich würde gerne die Jacke stricken nur traue ich mich noch nicht so richtig ran.Bevor ich loss lege würde ich gerne noch wissen ob die ab und Zunahmen in dem Diagramm mit drin stehen.

27.01.2022 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Plitschka, einige Abnahmen sind in den Diagrammen gezeichnet, aber nicht alle, die Sie in der Anleitung stricken sollen, die sind in die schriftlichen Erklärung beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.01.2022 - 10:29

country flag Konni wrote:

Hallo ich würde gerne die Jacke stricken nur traue ich mich noch nicht so richtig ran.Bevor ich loss lege würde ich gerne noch wissen ob die ab und Zunahmen in dem Diagramm mit drin stehen.

25.01.2022 - 14:21

country flag Valérie wrote:

J'ai tricoté ma première Manche avec la méthode du magic loop, je dois rabattre à la fin 6 mailles en début et fin de rang. Pour le début pas de problème, mais pour rabattre les 6 dernières je suis dans un nœud. Comment dois je faire svp merci bcp

17.04.2020 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, à la fin de ce dernier tour de la manche, rabattez les 6 premières mailles, tricotez les mailles suivantes (84 ou 88 selon la taille) comme avant jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 6 mailles sur l'aiguille gauche, et rabattez ces 6 dernières mailles, coupez le fil, vous devez avoir 84 ou 88 m sur l'aiguille. Bon tricot!

20.04.2020 - 08:36

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonsoir, c'est encore moi. J'arrive au 30 cm où il es indiqué de rabattre sur l'envers poir ma taille 12 mailles soit 6 de chaque côté du fil marqueur. Ma question est comment les rabattre. Merci à vous pour votre disponibilité.

31.03.2020 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous pouvez les rabattre au choix comme elles se présentent: à l'envers sur l'envers et vous fermerez ensuite par une couture ces 12 mailles rabattues aux 12 mailles rabattues des manches (cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

01.04.2020 - 08:18

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonsoir, je sèche après avoir fais les côtes, sur le rang où il faut faire les diminutions. J'ai bien diminué sur les 45 premières mailles, mais pour la suite je ne comprend pas. Merci de bien vouloir m'aider.

21.03.2020 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, après les côtes, vous tricotez: 5 m point mousse, A.5B (= on passe de 45 à 39 m), tricotez les mailles suivantes à l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 50 m (= les mailles de A.2A + les 5 m de bordure devant) en diminuant en même temps 54-62-68 m (= cf taille) et terminez par A.2B (on passe de 45 à 39 m) et 5 m point mousse. Vous avez maintenant: 5 + 39 + 220-252-278 + 39+5= 308+340+366 m. Bon tricot!

23.03.2020 - 09:53

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Existe-t-il une vidéo pour montrer comment réunir le dos/devant et les manches ? Merci

27.02.2020 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, tout à fait, c'est cette vidéo qui montre comment réunir les manches - les mailles rabattues au début et à la fin du dernier rang de la manche doivent être contre les mailles rabattues pour les emmanchures à la fin du dos/devants. Bon tricot!

28.02.2020 - 07:51

country flag Cecilie wrote:

Det ser ut til at fordeling og strikking av knapphull har falt ut. Det samme gjelder alle felletips og øketips.

23.06.2019 - 23:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Cecilie. Nå skal all informasjon til oppskriften være lagt inn. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

24.06.2019 - 07:12

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai 2 questions : Il manque un symbole dans la légende des diagrammes, le triangle rectangle noir avec angle droit en bas à gauche des 2 mailles. Les diagrammes sont ils inversés ou faut-il les lire de droite à gauche ? Parce que A3 commence par 2 mailles envers alors qu'on voit 2 mailles endroit après la bordure au point mousse, A4 finit par 2 mailles envers au lieu des 2 mailles endroit avant la bordure au point mousse. Pouvez vous m'éclairer ? Merci

09.04.2019 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, pour A.4, je tricoterai 2 m ens à l'envers également pour conserver la cohérence du motif - nos stylistes vont vérifier ça aussi rapidement que possible - Les diagrammes se lisent sur l'endroit de droite à gauche, A.3 va ainsi commencer par 2 m end sur l'end et A.4 terminera par 2 m end sur l'end. Sur l'envers, lisez les diagrammes de gauche à droite - cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les diagrammes. . Bon tricot!

09.04.2019 - 12:23