DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Le Petit Bûcheron

Jumper with raglan and cables, worked top down for kids. Size 2 - 12 years Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Children 30-2
DROPS design: Pattern me-031-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-300-350-350-350 g color no 31, forest green

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 and A.2 in every transition between sleeves and body.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES BEFORE A.1 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work until 1 stitch remains before A.1:
Make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work A.1. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES AFTER A.2 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work A.2, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE A.1/A.2 (applies to all sizes):
Work until A.1/A.2:
Make 1 yarn over, work A.1/A.2. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER A.1/A.2 (applies to all sizes):
Work A.1/A.2, make 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together (marker thread), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back. Work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-92-96-96 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round, then work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Work 3 cm / 1'' rib. Knit 1 round while decreasing 12-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly = 72-76-80-80-84-84 stitches. Then work as follows from mid back: Work 7-8-9-9-10-10 stitches in stockinette stitch (= half back piece), A.1 (= 8 stitches), 6 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.2 (= 8 stitches), 14-16-18-18-20-20 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), A.1, 6 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), A.2, 7-8-9-9-10-10 stitches in stockinette stitch (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME begin increases for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE! Increase differently on body and sleeves.

SIZE 2 YEARS:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 4 stitches on back piece and 4 stitches on front piece (= 2 stitches before A.1/after A.2): Increase like this every other round 4 times.
Then increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before A.1/after A.2): Increase like this every other round 12 times.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch after A.1/before A.2): Increase every other round 14 times, then increase every 4th round 1 time (= 15 times in total).

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before A.1/after A.2): Increase every other round 21-22-24-24-26 times in total.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch after A.1/before A.2): Increase every other round 11-12-12-12-12 times, then increase every 4th round 5-5-6-6-7 times (16-17-18-18-19 times in total).

ALL SIZES:
After all increases are done there are 212-224-236-248-252-264 stitches on round. Work pattern as before until piece measures 13-15-15-17-17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7'' from mid back. Work next round as follows: Work the first 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 62-66-70-74-76-80 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches. Continue working in stockinette stitch over all stitches. When piece measures 17-19-23-25-29-32 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-9"-9 3/4"-11½"-12½" from division, knit 1 round while increasing 28-28-32-32-36-36 stitches evenly = 164-172-184-192-204-212 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE:
Slip the stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½" 7-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 19-22-26-30-35-39 cm / 7½"-8 3/4"-10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13 3/4"-15 1/4''. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-6-6-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 44-44-44-48-48-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 23-26-30-34-39-43 cm / 9"-10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13½"-15 1/4"-17'' from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.02.2018
New yarn amount on sizes 9/10 - 11/12 years: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio 300-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 31, forest green

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3 stitches, work 3 stitches from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 stitches, work 3 stitches from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Sally wrote:

I'm about to embark on the "Petit Bucheron," but don't understand how the initial instructions--one marked "raglan," several marked "increase" and one marked "decrease tip"--fit in with the later instructions (which seem to progress straightforwardly from beginning to end). Once I understand the initial comments, I'll order the yarn and get started knitting!

09.09.2022 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, at the beginning of the written pattern we explain the different techniques used in the pattern; for this jumper you will increase for raglan (depending on the size), first 2 stitches before A.1 and 2 stitches after A.1 or/and 1 stitch before/after A.1/A.2 - the diagrams A.1 and A.2 are the stitches worked with cables on each raglan line and you have to increase there, but depending on the size you might have to increase either 2 and /or only 1 stitch before/after the diagram = either 8 sts (f. ex. increase 2 sts for each body and sleeves) or only 4 sts (on body only when inc on body on every 2nd round but on sleeves on every 4th round). Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

12.09.2022 - 09:16

country flag Stefania wrote:

Hallo, Nur aus Neugierde, wieso muss man bei der Passe nach 3 cm Rippenmuster 12 Maschen abnehmen? Und spielt es eine Rolle, mit welcher Methode abgenommen wird? Vielen Dank Herzlicher Gruss Stefania

20.10.2021 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefania, siehe Antwort unten und diese Lektion erklärt, wie man regelmäßig verteilt abnimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.10.2021 - 06:51

country flag Stefania wrote:

Hallo, Nur aus Neugierde, wieso muss man bei der Passe nach 3 cm Rippenmuster 12 Maschen abnehmen? Und spielt es eine Rolle, mit welcher Methode man die Maschen abnimmt? Danke Herzlicher Gruss Stefania

20.10.2021 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefania, man braucht mehr Maschen im Rippenmuster als glatt rechts, deshalb muss man nach den 3 cm Rippenmuster/Kragen abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.10.2021 - 06:45

country flag Maria Marta wrote:

Maravilloso es la guia que necesitaba

22.07.2021 - 15:47

country flag Sally Price wrote:

Directions call for dpns of 3.5 and 4. I already have dpns of 3.75. Could I use them instead of getting the two new sizes?

30.06.2021 - 20:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, the different sized needles are for knitting the differently structured stocking stitch and ribbing. You should always make a swatch and check your gauge before starting any pattern (especially, if you are planning to change needle sizes). Happy Stitching!

01.07.2021 - 01:31

country flag Madeleine wrote:

Bonjour, peut-on tricoter ce pull avec une laine du groupe A ( Baby Merino) ? comment choisir sa taille alors ? merci

30.01.2021 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madeleine, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Pour toute assistance complémentaire, vous pouvez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous conseiller et vous renseigner. Bon tricot!

30.01.2021 - 17:43

country flag Bénédicte Titley wrote:

Going from yoke to 3-parts knitting: size 5/6 . Everything tallies up to this row. BUT Sleeve: 6+(17x2)=40 stitches the instructions says 'Slip 48 stitches on the a stitch holder' Are the extra 8 stitches half the cable of the raglan? in which case should't the back left should be 9+24+4+=37 stitches and not 35 (the last 4 stitches being the half cable) and the the front 18+(24*2)+8=74 and not 70?( the last 8 stitches being 2x half-cable.) Many thanks for your help.

14.01.2021 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Titley, the stitches of each A.1 will be divided in 2 into body and sleeves, ie the first 35 sts for half back piece = 9 sts + 35 sts inc + 4 sts A.1 and the 48 sts on each sleeve = last 4 sts in A.1 + 17 sts increased + 6 sts + 17 sts increased + first 4 sts A.1 = 48 sts. same for each piece. Happy knitting!

15.01.2021 - 06:52

country flag Puja wrote:

Hi Thanks for the reply my previous question. I have a question about cables. How many rows should we knit before we twist for cables. Thank you Puja

12.10.2020 - 21:40

country flag Puja wrote:

Hi I am knitting this for my 7 year old kid. He is taller for his age and leaner, so just wondering which size is a good size. I am just wondering if we can add short rows to this pattern, is it really required or the pattern is written as such that the short rows won’t be needed. If we need to add where can we add and which method will you suggest. Thank you Puja

29.09.2020 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Puja, measure a similar garment your son has and like the shape and compare the measurements from the chart (convert into inches here) - this way you will find the best matching size; read more about sizing here - there are no short rows worked in this pattern. Happy knitting!

30.09.2020 - 08:16

country flag Karin wrote:

Hallo, ik ben de trui voor 2 jaar aan het breien, maar kom er toch niet helemaal uit. Bij het meerderen voor het voor en achterland staat elke andere naald ( dat is toch steeds de brengende naald?) Bij het meerderen voor de mouw staat om de naald meerderen . Nu ben ik eigenlijk al bij 13 cm maar heb nog niet alle meerderingen gedaan. Ben dus bang dat ik het niet goed gedaan heb

20.05.2020 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Karin,

Als er staat 'elke andere naald' dan wordt er om de naald bedoeld, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet. Omdat je het werk in de rondte breit, heb je geen teruggaande naald, dus je breit een naald zonder te meerderen en een naald met meerderingen.

22.05.2020 - 09:47