DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Wednesday Morning

Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked back and forth with texture and displacement. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 197-27
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-157
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-850-950 g color 07, light brown

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with texture (A.2) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7: length 60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32"
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are made from the right side! Decrease in the same way as in diagrams A.1 and A.7 as follows:
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the 2nd stitch on the row is worked in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 together.
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the 2nd stitch on the row is knitted as follows: Purl 2 together.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the next to last stitch on the row is in garter stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the next to last stitch on the row is knitted as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 together.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections and sewn together to finish. The piece is worked bottom up.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 129-137-145-153-165-177 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read description above, work A.1 over the first 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 50-54-58-62-68-74 stitches, A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.4 over the next 7 stitches (= the middle 7 stitches on the row), A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.6 over the next 50-54-58-62-68-74 stitches, A.7 over the next 8 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. The number of stitches stays the same, but the pattern is displaced. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the diagrams have been completed in height, continue the pattern in the same way, i.e. increase stitches in A.3 and A.5 and decrease stitches in A.1 and A.7. When the piece measures approx. 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13 ¾"-13 ¾" from the cast-on edge and up the side of the piece – adjust so that you finish after 5 rows after an increase, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 64-68-72-76-82-88 stitches on the row, work 2 stitches in the next stitch (= mid-stitch), work pattern as before over the last 64-68-72-76-82-88 stitches on the row = 130-138-146-154-166-178 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side of the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Place the first 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches (seen from the right side) on a thread for left shoulder and work the right shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches. Work 1 row back from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck), continue pattern A.6 until there is 1 stitch left and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 10-10-11-11-12-12 times and when the piece measures 10-11-11-12-13-14 cm / 3 7/8"-4 ¼"-4 ¼"-4 5/8"-5 1/8"-5 ½" from the marker thread bind off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches for the armhole = 53-57-60-62-67-73 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' from the marker thread (= 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm / 2 ¾"-2 ¾"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" from where you bind off for the armhole) work short rows in pattern as before from the wrong side as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work back.
ROW 3: Work until there are 4 more stitches left on the row than the previous time (= 6 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4-4-4-4-4-4 more stitches left than on the previous row 7-11-10-13-12-15 more times (= a total of 8-12-11-14-13-16 times) and then when there are 5-3-5-0-3-3 more stitches left than on the previous row 3-1-2-0-3-1 times (NOTE: In size XL turn after there are 4 more stitches left each time). Work 1 ridge over all stitches on row where you decrease 5 stitches evenly on row = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches left on shoulder. Bind off. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder down.

LEFT SHOULDER:
= 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches. Work 1 row back from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (towards armhole), continue pattern A.6 until there are 2 stitches left and work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck). AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side - remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 10-10-11-11-12-12 times and when the piece measures 10-11-11-12-13-14 cm / 3 7/8"-4 ¼"-4 ¼"-4 5/8"-5 1/8"-5 ½" from the marker thread bind off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches for the armhole = 53-57-60-62-67-73 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' from the marker thread (= 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm / 2 ¾"-2 ¾"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" from where you bind off for the armhole) work short rows in pattern as before from the right side as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work back.
ROW 3: Work until there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time (= 6 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4-4-4-4-4-4 more stitches left than the previous row 7-11-10-13-12-15 more times (= a total of 8-12-11-14-13-16 times) and then when there are 5-3-5-0-3-3 more stitches left than the previous time 3-1-2-0-3-1 times (NOTE: In size XL turn when there are 4 more stitches left each time). Work 1 ridge over all stitches on row where you decrease 5 stitches evenly on row = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches left on shoulder. Bind off. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 121-129-137-145-157-169 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When the piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'' – adjust to match the front piece where you bind off stitches for the armholes, and bind off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes in each side = 117-125-133-137-149-161 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''. Now work garter stitch over the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches, bind off the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches on each shoulder. Continue with texture and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side and 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 45-45-49-49-53-53 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 over the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.4 over the middle 7 stitches on the sleeve, A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.6 over the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this.
You increase stitches on the middle of sleeve in diagrams A.3 and A.5. When the sleeve measures 7 cm / 2¾'' decrease 1 stitch in each side - remember DECREASE TIP! NOTE: In size XXXL you do not decrease, but continue to work texture and increase stitches as before. Decrease like this every 10th-12th-18th-30th-28th-0 row a total of 10-8-6-4-4-0 times. When the diagrams have been completed in height continue to increase in the middle of the sleeve as before until you have increased a total of 20-20-18-18-18-16 times and there are 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches on the needle. Then continue with texture until the sleeve measures 40-39-38-37-36-33 cm / 15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13". Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew sleeves to body inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the body and inside the bind-off edge on the sleeve. Sew sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Simone Vidal wrote:

Dans le diagramme A3 le rang 7 est différent des rangs 19 et 31 il y a une maille avant le jeté. le rang 9 est différent des rangs 21 et 33 il y a 2 mailles avant le jeté au lieu de 1. Dans le diagramme A5 le rang 7 est différent des rangs 19 et 31 il y a une maille après le jeté. le rang 9 est différent des rangs 21 et 33 il y a 2 mailles après le jeté au lieu de 1.

29.01.2023 - 11:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vidal, les diagrammes sont justes ainsi, tricotez-les bien comme indiqué pour obtenir le bon motif. Bon tricot!

30.01.2023 - 09:23

country flag Annick wrote:

Wanneer het patroon in boordsteek dient gebreid te worden dient de blanco rij gebreid te worden zoals de steken zich voordien. Zoniet krijg je geen boordpatroon.

15.09.2022 - 11:38

country flag Penny Gaffney wrote:

I am knitting the above pattern. Is the first row a knit row? If it is then I’m assuming the pattern stitches are made on the wrong side? Ist row is blank, 2nd row has Ex’s and blanks. Is this the row , the wrong side? Pattern is rather confusing.

20.08.2022 - 03:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Penny, the first row in the garment is purled and worked on the wrong side. In the second row (right side), start working the pattern according to the diagrams (the blank squares are knitted stitches). Happy knitting!

21.08.2022 - 20:34

country flag Diem Ly Vu wrote:

Hello Im little confused here. Im knitting the wrong side right now. And is the wrong side will be all K stitch? Or K the P stitch and P the K stitch? Thank you!

17.05.2022 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Diem, On the wrong side the knitted stitches (open squares) are purled and the purled stitches (square with x) are knitted. Happy crafting!

18.05.2022 - 07:00

country flag Elena wrote:

Salve, riguardo ai ferri accorciati delle spalle, si deve procedere dalla parte del collo o della spalla? Non riesco ad andare avanti, grazie mille.

28.04.2022 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, deve partire a lavorare i ferri accorciati dal rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

29.04.2022 - 17:29

country flag Belleslettres wrote:

Would not putting in the eyelet stitches drastically change this pattern?

24.04.2022 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Belleslettres, no, it wouldn't drastically change the pattern. You simply need to work the yarn overs twisted, so that no eyelets are left. Since these are also simply decorative, it won't affect the end result too much. Happy knitting!

24.04.2022 - 21:57

country flag Belleslettres wrote:

I would like to make this nicely textured sweater without the eyelets. Will this make much of a difference with the pattern!

24.04.2022 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Belleslettres, please see answer above.

24.04.2022 - 21:58

country flag Ju wrote:

Jullie hebben het over A5, A6 en A7. Waar staan die?

30.11.2021 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ju,

Dat zijn de onderste rij telpatronen, te vinden onderaan de beschrijving bij het patroon.

01.12.2021 - 11:23

country flag Grit Naqvi wrote:

Meget uklædeligt design. Billedet viser ikke, at ærmerne faktisk stumper, og at ryggen er så bred, at den står ud bag dig som et telt. Strikkefasthed er overholdt. Utroligt skuffet.

16.11.2021 - 14:24

country flag Grit Naqvi wrote:

Meget uklædeligt design. Billedet viser ikke, at ærmerne faktisk stumper, og at ryggen er så bred, at den står ud bag dig som et telt. Strikkefasthed er overholdt. Utroligt skuffet.

16.11.2021 - 14:22