DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Moonshine Dance

Knitted dress with round yoke in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked with lace and tulip pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 199-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no r-737
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-86-96-104-118-132 cm = 31 1/2”-33 7/8”-37 3/4”-41”-46 1/2”-52”
Full length: 84-86-88-90-92-94 cm = 33”-33 7/8”-35”-35 1/2”-36 1/4”-37”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-900 g color 60, ice blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 60 cm = 24” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 60 cm = 24” and 80 cm = 32” for rib/garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PIECE:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for body):
Decrease 4 stitches on each decrease-round.
Decrease before the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each of the other marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased on round).
Decrease after the marker thread as follows:
Work as far as the marker thread, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each of the other marker threads (= 4 stitches decreased).
Work decreases alternately before and after the marker thread each time you decrease.

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 252 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 12) = 21.
In this example, decrease by knitting together each 20th and 21st stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 13.5.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 13th and 14th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the yoke. Then the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles before they are placed on same circular needle as the body. The yoke is worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 264-264-288-312-336-336 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Muskat. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round (=mid-back). This thread follows your work upwards. Work 2 RIDGES - read description above. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work pattern A.1 a total of 11-11-12-13-14-14 times on the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed in height the piece measures approx. 20 cm = 8”. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: One marker thread is inserted after 29-29-32-34-36-36 stitches, the next marker thread after 74-74-80-88-96-96 new stitches, the next marker thread after 58-58-64-68-72-72 new stitches and the last marker thread after 74-74-80-88-96-96 new stitches. There are 29-29-32-34-36-36 stitches left on round after the last thread. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round begin to decrease by each of the 4 marker threads – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease (alternately before and after the marker threads) every 2 cm = 3/4” 2-4-3-2-4-9 times and every cm = 3/8” 25-21-23-25-21-11 times (= a total of 27-25-26-27-25-20 decrease-rounds) = 156-164-184-204-236-256 stitches. Remove all the marker threads from the piece, except the marker thread at the beginning of the round. Insert 1 marker thread on both sides of the piece; i.e. one marker thread after the first 39-41-46-51-59-64 stitches and the second marker thread after 78-82-92-102-118-128 new stitches. There are 39-41-46-51-59-64 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. When the piece measures 49 cm = 19 1/4” increase 1 stitch on both sides of each marker thread in the sides – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4-3-3-3-3-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4” a total of 3-4-4-4-4-5 times = 168-180-200-220-252-276 stitches. When the piece measures 60-61-61-61-61-61 cm = 23 5/8”-24”-24”-24”-24”-24”, work the next round as follows: Work the first 38-41-45-50-57-63 stitches, bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of marker thread) work the next 76-82-90-100-114-126 stitches, bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of marker thread) and work the remaining 38-41-45-50-57-63 stitches on the round = 76-82-90-100-114-126 stitches on both front and back pieces (a total of 152-164-180-200-228-252 stitches). Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 54-60-62-68-72-76 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Muskat. Work 2 ridges in the round. Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 58-64-66-72-76-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work stockinette stitch in the round for 1 cm = 3/8”. Now bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve for armhole (i.e. the first and last 4 stitches on the round) = 50-56-56-62-64-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you bind off stitches for the armhole on each side = 252-276-292-324-356-388 stitches. Knit 1 round where you decrease 12-12-12-12-14-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 240-264-280-312-342-376 stitches. Then work the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Size S is finished, continue with next paragraph.
Size M: Work stockinette stitch for 2 cm = 3/4”, then work the next paragraph.
In sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL work stockinette stitch for 4-5-7-9 cm = 1 1/2”-2”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”, at the same time as you decrease evenly as follows:
Size L: Decrease 16 stitches every 2 cm = 3/4” 1 time = 264 stitches.
Size XL: Decrease 12 stitches every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 2 times = 288 stitches.
Size XXL: Decrease 18 stitches every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 3 times = 288 stitches.
Size XXXL: Decrease 16 stitches every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 4 times = 312 stitches.

All sizes:
Now work pattern A.2 – choose diagram for your size, a total of 10-11-11-12-12-13 times on the round. When A.2 has been completed in height there are 130-143-143-144-144-156 stitches on the round. Purl for 0-0-0-1-1-1 cm = 0”-0”-0”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8”, then purl 1 round where you adjust the number of stitches - read DECREASE TIP-2/INCREASE TIP-2, to 132-140-144-148-152-160 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together the opening under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.03.2019
Instructions regarding assembly has been added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit or purl the yarn overs (as the diagram shows) to leave holes
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = When working this round, displace the beginning of the round 1 stitch backwards; i.e. the beginning of the round with a star is the last stitch on the previous round. When A.1 has been worked all the way round, knit the next stitch. Then begin the next round as earlier
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Brigitte PIERRET wrote:

Bonjour et félicitations pour votre site. J'ai un doute sur la technique des diminutions dans le corps de la robe. Dois-je faire une diminution à gauche et une à droite alternativement à chaque marqueur sur le même rang ou dois-je faire tout à gauche sur un rang entier et tout à droite sur le rang de diminutions suivant ?

02.07.2023 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pierret, vous allez diminuer alternativement avant et après les fils marqueurs autrement dit, la 1ère fois, vous diminuez avant les fils marqueurs, puis la fois suivante vous diminuerez après les fils marqueurs. Continuez ainsi, les diminutions vont se trouver alternativement à droite et à gauche de chaque fil marqueur. Bon tricot!

03.07.2023 - 10:42

country flag Nadine wrote:

Je suis désolée mais je viens de comprendre que je ne prenais pas le diagramme dans le bon sens donc problème résolu pour l'instant.

03.06.2022 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Parfait Nadine, n'hésitez pas si vous avez une autre question. Bonne continuation!

03.06.2022 - 07:20

country flag Nadine wrote:

Bonjour J'ai commencé le diagramme (ligne 2 avec *), décalé 1 maille en arrière et pourtant il me reste 3 mailles à la fin du tour. Après avoir décalé la maille en arrière, j'ai commencé par 6 mailles endroit, 1 jeté et 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit. Merci de m'expliquer pourquoi il me reste 3 mailles y compris la maille en arrière

02.06.2022 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, au 3ème tour de A.2, vous avez 24 mailles dans chaque A.2, commencez ce tour par la dernière maille du 2ème tour et tricotez: *3 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 3 m end, 1 dim, 1 jeté, 4 m end, 1 dim, 1 jeté, 4 m end, 3 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 3 m end* répétez de *-* (=il reste 22 m dans chaque A.2). Le tour commence désormais comme avant (avant la maille obtenue avec les 3 m ens à l'end). Bon tricot!

03.06.2022 - 07:17

country flag Nadine wrote:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de prendre des aiguilles circulaires à la place des aiguilles doubles pointes ?

25.05.2022 - 17:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, tout à fait, vous pouvez utiliser soit une aiguille circulaire de 40 cm soit une de 80 cm et la technique du magic loop. Bon tricot!

27.05.2022 - 08:54

country flag Winki wrote:

Hallo, bin gerade beim Rumpfteil an den Armausschnitten. Warum werden hier die Maschen stillgelegt und nicht abgekettet, wie auch bei den Ärmeln selbst?

13.05.2020 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Winki, die Maschen unter den Ärmeln werden abgekettet, die deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.05.2020 - 09:33

country flag Dani wrote:

Hallo, Ich bin gerade an den Abnahmen des Rumpfteils. Leider habe ich nicht verstanden, wie genau ich das bei Größe S machen soll. Zuerst an den 4 Markierungsnadeln jeweils ein mal, dann alle 2 cm zwei mal und dann nach jedem Zentimeter 2 mal? Wann genau wechselt man von 1 auf 2 cm? Danke!

04.05.2020 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dani, also die erste Abahme wird bei 20 cm gestrickt (= jeweils 4 Abnahmen) und vor jeder Markierung gestrickt. Bei der nächsten Abnahme werden Sie nach jeder Markierung abnehmen, und so immer weiter abnehmen, dh einmal vor den Markierern und das nächste Mal nach den Markierern und jeweils immer 4 Maschen abnehmen; Sie stricken bis 22 cm (= 2 cm) und stricken 1 Abanhmenrunde, dann 1 cm stricken und 1 Abnahmerunde stricken und so insgesamt 25 Mal (= 25 Mal in jede cm) stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.05.2020 - 10:50

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour.J'entame les diminutions (S).Le calcul des dim. est faux. car on diminue 8 m par rang au lieu de 4 m comme annoncé. Donc, si je pars de 264 mailles, et que je fais 27 dim. au total (soit 216 mailles), il ne me restera que 48 mailles pour continuer la robe! Je ne parviens pas à corriger pour arriver à 156 mailles.merci

21.04.2020 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, on diminue 1 seule maille à chaque marqueur (cf DIMINUTIONS-1 (dos/devant):) autrement dit, on va diminuer 27 fois 4 mailles soit 108 mailles au total, on avait 264 m - 108= il reste 156 mailles. Bon tricot!

21.04.2020 - 14:38

country flag Dung Hau wrote:

Merci tout d’abord pour les explications bien détaillés de jolie modèle.Je suis maintenant aux diminutions pour taille L .Je n’arrive pas à calculer :26 fois x 4 =184 mailles au lieu 104 mailles.Aidez-moi à bien comprendre,S’VP.Merci infiniment.

23.12.2019 - 11:30

country flag Margaux wrote:

Bonjour, tout d'abord merci pour votre réponse précédente qui m'a permis d'aller plus loin dans l'ouvrage. Je suis maintenant bloquée à la diminution 1 : je ne comprend pas ce que signifie diminuer tous les 2 cm et tous les cm et à quoi correspondent le nombre de mailles entre parenthèses. J'espère que ma question est claire et ne vous semble pas idiote. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

08.11.2019 - 09:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Margaux, vous diminuez d'abord pour le bas de la robe tous les 2 cm (2-4-3-2-4-9 fois en fonction de la taille) puis, 25-21-23-25-21-11 fois tous les 1 cm - la 1ère diminution se fait avant chacun des fils marqueurs (= on diminue 4 m sur ce tour), la 2ème se fait après chacun des fils marqueurs (= on diminue 4 m également sur ce tour), et on alterne ainsi les diminutions avant puis après les fils marqueurs. Bon tricot!

08.11.2019 - 10:13

country flag Maruschka wrote:

Met welke wol zou ik deze jurk kunnen breien op de breimachine ( een tussenbreier) ?

29.09.2019 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Maruschka,

De patronen op onze website zijn allemaal ontworpen om met de hand te breien. Voor advies over te gebruiken garen met de breimachine, kun je het beste even contact opnemen met het verkooppunt van het garen of de breimachine.

03.10.2019 - 16:25