DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted sweater with balloon sleeves and stripes in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes: S-XXXL

DROPS 201-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-103
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-112-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-44”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 19, curry
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color 01, off white
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 12, powder pink
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 14, light grey green
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 13, denim blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 24 rows in height with moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4” with needle size 6 mm = US 10.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for moss stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 08, 01, 09, 12, 04.
B) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 04, 01, 14, 02, 05.
C) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 15, 01, 05, 13, 17.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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MOSS STITCH (worked in the round):
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1*, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat round 2 onwards.

MOSS STITCH (worked back and forth):
Row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat row 2 onwards.

STRIPES BODY:
Work 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm = 4 3/4"-4 7/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/4"-5 1/4"-5 1/2" light grey green, 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm = 4 3/4"-4 7/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-5 5/8" off-white, 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm = 4 3/4"-4 7/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/4"-5 1/4"-5 1/2" powder pink and then finish with denim blue = 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm = 4 3/4"-4 7/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-5 5/8".

STRIPES SLEEVES:
Work 4.5 cm = 1 3/4” off-white, 3 cm = 1 1/8” curry, 4.5 cm = 1 3/4” off-white, 3 cm = 1 1/8” curry, 4.5 cm = 1 3/4” off-white and 3 cm = 1 1/8” curry.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Knit together the 3 middle stitches under the sleeve (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Work 1 stitch but do not slip this stitch off the left needle, work 1 more stitch in same stitch - working in the back loop this time = 1 stitch increased.

INCREASE TIP-2: (evenly spaced at bottom of sleeve):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 2.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave a small hole.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle; or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off( yarn overs bind off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. At the armholes, the piece is divided in 2 and front and back pieces are worked back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles or short circular needle, bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 132-144-156-172-188-208 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and curry. Work rib (= Knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2”. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and light grey green and work MOSS STITCH – read description above – AT THE SAME TIME as you work STRIPES BODY – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm = 13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4” divide the piece in 2 and front and back pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-72-78-86-94-104 stitches. Continue back and forth on needle and on the first row increase 1 stitch on each side for sleeve-seam = 2 stitches increased – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 68-74-80-88-96-106. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" bind off the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off towards the neck on each 2nd row: 2 stitches 1 time. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" loosely bind off the remaining 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 66-72-78-86-94-104 stitches. Work as for back piece but bind off for neck as follows: When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4”-18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8” bind off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off towards the neck on each 2nd row: 2 stitches a total of 2 times and 1 stitch 1 time. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" loosely bind off the remaining 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches, with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and curry. Work rib ( = knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”-2”-2”. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10 and off-white and knit 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-22-22-22-20-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 60-60-62-64-64-66 stitches. Continue with MOSS STITCH and STRIPES SLEEVES – read description above. When STRIPES SLEEVES are finished continue with off-white to finished length.
When the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm = 9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4” decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1, repeat this decrease every 4-6-5-5-0-0 cm = 1 1/2”-2 3/8”-2”-2”-0”-0” a total of 4-3-2-2-0-0 times = 52-54-58-60-64-66 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 52-52-51-49-47-45 cm = 20 1/2”-20 1/2”-20”-19 1/4”-18 1/2”-17 3/4” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders) and then bind off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY
Sew shoulder seams in outermost loop of outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Pick up approx. 55-55-60-60-65-65 stitches around the neck with denim blue and double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 2.5 cm = 1”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP.
Sew sleeves to body inside the 1 edge stitch.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.11.2021
Correction: The yarn amount has been edited in all sizes. The stripes for body has been edited in size XL.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Tina wrote:

I found the answer to my question with Watercolour Horizons Sweater 241/3 that uses Kid-Silk (similar type of thin yarn with fluff and uses large size needles.) My gauge test was correct. Just had problem with the cast on, where I got the answer from the pattern I mentioned. You should add a cast on tip using double needles on this pattern, for knitters who are using this kind of yarn for the first time, to prevent yarn wastage :)

31.12.2023 - 13:34

country flag Tina wrote:

What method of cast on should I use please? Fist attempt, I used your 4mm 80cm circular needles, but it was impossible to work as the 144 cast on stitches are too narrow. So I started again with the 60cm circular needles and it was better. However, now after knitting 6 rows, I feel that the cast on edge will be too small. I've wasted a lot of yarn now because this yarn is impossible to unravel. Please help

23.12.2023 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, you can cast on as you wish; you can use the following video as a guide, for example: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=2&lang=en or read the following lesson: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=1&cid=19. Have you worked a gauge with the selected needles to see if it matches the one in the pattern? If your piece is too narrow it may be because your gauge is too tight and you may need a larger needle size (4.5mm for example). Happy knitting!

28.12.2023 - 18:55

country flag Mie McLaughlin wrote:

Hejsa igen, hvor på ærmerne skifter man fra strømpe pindene over til rundpinden? Når man tager ud? Tak

11.02.2022 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mie, ja du skifter når du har nok masker til at de kan nå rundt :)

11.02.2022 - 13:03

country flag Mie wrote:

Der står man skal bruge rundpind str 6 på 40 cm men jeg kan ikke finde hvor den skal bruges? Hvis jeg ikke vil have puf-ærme går jeg ud fra at jeg bare kan lade være med at tage ud lige efter ribkanten og så heller ikke tage in igen efter de første 25 cm? Tak for hjælpen. Mie McLaughlin

07.02.2022 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mie, den kan du bruge på ærmerne. Ja det bestemmer du selv, så du kan bare lade være med at tage ud til pufærmerne. God fornøjelse!

09.02.2022 - 12:05

country flag Linnea wrote:

Hei, voinko käyttää tässä työssä DROPS Paris puuvillalankaa? Onko neuletiheys siten sama?

25.01.2022 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Kyllä, voit käyttää DROPS Paris-lankaa, neuletiheys on sama. Ota kuitenkin huomioon, että lankakerien metrimäärät eroavat toisistaan.

07.03.2022 - 17:47

country flag Petra wrote:

Hei! Miksi ohjeessa ei tule helmineuleen kohdalle paritonta määrää silmukoita? Eikö joustimen jälkeen voisi esim. kaventaa yhden silmukan, että kerroksen vaihdosta tulisi siisti?

08.01.2022 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, voit hyvin kaventaa tai lisätä 1 silmukan työhön.

20.01.2022 - 17:38

country flag Bodil Nielsen wrote:

Hej Kan det passe at man kun skal strikke 12 cm i striberne i størrelse XL? Det ser lidtmærkeligt ud når blandt andet L skal striberne være 13 cm. Bliver trøjen så ikke for kort?

17.03.2021 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bodil, de 12 cm stemmer i hver farve, og de sidste cm ved halsen strikkes færdig med jeansblå. God fornøjelse!

17.03.2021 - 14:49

country flag Anette Holtung wrote:

Hei! Om jeg har lyst til å strikke glattstrikk i denne modellen, bør jeg da bruke pinne 5,5 istedenfor 6 over vrangborden.? Strikker stor S

13.03.2021 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Du bør bruke en pinnestørrelse der du overholder strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

15.03.2021 - 15:36

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

PAS PÅ når I bestiller garn til denne trøje !!!!!! Der er andre der har skrevet det samme, kan jeg se. Der er alt for meget garn i overskud, efter det der står i opskriften. Når der står 50 g bestiller man selvfølgelig 2 nøgler Jeg har nu strikket 2 trøjer og der er stadigvæk garn tilovers. Det er bare ikke godt nok. Mvh Elisabeth

22.11.2020 - 22:14

country flag Helle Pedersen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke perlestrikken. Normalt strikkes perlestrik over 2 pinde. Ret og vrang på 1. pind og modsat på 2. pind. Her står at 2. pind skal gentages, så mønstret er over 3 pinde, er det korrekt?

05.09.2020 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Det er bare 2. omgang som skal gjentas og den er forklart at man skal strikke "Strik ret over vrang og vrang over ret". God Fornøyelse!

07.09.2020 - 07:52