DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

April Showers Jacket

Knitted long jacket with round yoke in 2 strands DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 201-31
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-041
Yarn group B + B or D
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 90-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 35 1/2”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"

All measurements in charts are in cm.


MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 color 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11: for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 62 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 2.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
First buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 2 cm. Then work the other 6 buttonholes with 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2” between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 62-62-66-66-70-70 stitches (including 4 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and 2 strands Sky. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” – adjust so you finish after a row from the wrong side. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band!

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13. Work pattern and increase evenly spaced as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) until there are 5 stitches left on row, A.2 (choose diagram for your size), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME increase on each row with an arrow in the diagram as follows:
Arrow-1: Increase 19-19-21-21-21-23 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 70-70-76-76-80-82 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Arrow-2: Increase 26-28-30-30-30-32 stitches evenly spaced = 107-109-117-117-121-125 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 24-28-30-30-30-32 stitches evenly spaced = 131-137-147-147-151-157 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 24-30-30-30-30-32 stitches evenly spaced = 155-167-177-177-181-189 stitches.
Now the increases in sizes S, M and L are finished. In sizes XL, XXL and XXXL continue to increase as follows:
Arrow-5: Increase 22-30-32 stitches evenly spaced = 199-211-221 stitches

All sizes:
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 18-18-18-22-22-22 cm = 7”-7”-7”-8 3/4”-8 3/4”-8 3/4” from the cast-on edge. Continue with stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 19-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” increase 23-29-31-19-27-31 stitches evenly spaced = 178-196-208-218-238-252 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4”. The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows: Work the first 28-30-32-34-38-41 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 37-42-44-45-47-48 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 48-52-56-60-68-74 stitches (= back piece), place the next 37-42-44-45-47-48 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 28-30-32-34-38-41 stitches (= left front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 116-124-132-144-160-176 stitches. Insert a marker thread on each side, in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 4 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 12-12-8-8-8-8 cm = 4 3/4”-4 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times = 128-136-148-160-176-192 stitches. When the piece measures 32 cm increase 26-30-30-34-38-38 stitches evenly spaced = 154-166-178-194-214-230 stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and work rib from the right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when binding off if this is a problem. The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 37-42-44-45-47-48 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 43-48-50-53-55-58 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 new stitches on each side). Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease as follows in the different sizes:
Size S: Decrease alternately every 4 cm = 1 1/2” and 5 cm = 2” a total of 8 times.
Size M: Decrease every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 10 times.
Size L: Decrease every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 10 times.
Size XL: Decrease alternately every 2 cm = 3/4” and 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 11 times.
Size XXL: Decrease alternately every 2 cm = 3/4” and 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 11 times.
Size XXXL: Decrease every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 12 times.
When all the decreases are finished there are 27-28-30-31-33-34 stitches on the round. Continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 40-38-37-35-33-32 cm = 15 3/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13”-12 1/2” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Now increase 5-4-6-5-7-6 stitches evenly spaced = 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm = US 11 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight; increase a needle size when binding off if this is a problem. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-39-37-36 cm = 17 1/4”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) knit yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = increase row – see explanation in the pattern
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Tanja Pfeiffer wrote:

LiebesTeam , ich habe diese Jacke mit einer wunderbaren kuscheligen Wolle von Lana Grossa gestrickt. Die Anleitung hat genau gestimmt. Ich habe die Zunahmen außerhalb des Musters nicht mit einem Umschlag,sondern aus dem darunterliegenden Querfaden gestrickt. Das ist noch unauffälliger . Vielen Dank eure Tanja

03.02.2023 - 20:59

country flag Hb wrote:

I don't see the diagram in this pattern

09.07.2022 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hb, All the diagrams and the measurement chart are at the bottom of the pattern. Happy knitting!

11.07.2022 - 06:58

country flag Rosemarie Olivebring wrote:

Inkluderar jag antal maskor med zde 8 framkantmaskorna i de antal maskor ni nämner vid pilökningen. Det står tex öka 30 maskor på 151 maskor jämnt fördelat. Inkl. Det framkantsmaskorna?

14.12.2021 - 04:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rosemarie. Du ska inte göra ökningar på framkantmaskorna. Mvh DROPS Design

14.12.2021 - 11:11

country flag Soledad Worthington wrote:

Hola! quería saber a qué se refieren con 2 hilos, quieres decir que hay que tejer con dos hebras de lana? Gracias,

09.08.2020 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Soledad. Esta chaqueta se trabaja con 2 hilos/hebras de lana al mismo tiempo.

19.08.2020 - 18:10

country flag Mara wrote:

Ho provato a realizzare questo modello in tg. XL, ma credo ci sia un’errore nel calcolo delle maglie: la spiegazione dice di avviare 66 maglie e allo sprone diagramma A1 freccia 1 aumentare 21 maglie ma 66+21= 87 maglie non 76 come è scritto nella spiegazione. Per favore controllate e fatemi sapere. Grazie

17.09.2019 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mara. Abbiamo corretto il numero delle maglie. Gli aumenti sono 21 e il numero delle maglie dopo i primi aumenti sono 87. Buon lavoro!

17.09.2019 - 18:18

country flag Marianne Steen wrote:

Jeg ligger inde med en del Karisma kan jeg bruge 2 tråder af den?

18.08.2019 - 10:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Karisma och Sky tillhör båda garngrupp B så du kan byta till Karisma om du önskar. Tänk bara på att beräkna riktigt garnåtgång och att stickfastheten ska stämma. Lycka till!

19.08.2019 - 11:56

country flag Mona Granath wrote:

Hej! Vill gärna sticka denna kofta, men jag tål inte garnet Sky, som innehåller ull Har ni förslag på annat garn? Enligt garnkonverteraren finns inte garnet Belle med som alternativ (?)/Mvh Mona

21.03.2019 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Vi håller fortfarande på att utveckla konverteraren så därför finns inte alla alternativ med ännu. Du kan ersätta Sky med ett annat garn i garngrupp B (som då också stickas med 2 trådar), t.ex. DROPS Belle. Tänk bara på att räkna om garnmängden, du hittar hur du gör det här, samt att få rätt stickfasthet. Lycka till!

26.03.2019 - 13:20

country flag Arja Nielsen wrote:

Olen tekemässä tätä juuri nyt. Etu-ja takakappaleosiossa neuvotaan leventämään 2x2 silmukkaa koossa L ensin 4 cm:n kohdalla ja lisäksi vielä neljä kertaa 8 cm:n välein. Näistä tulee jo 36 cm. 32 cm:n kohdalla pitäisi kuitenkin jo lisätä 32 silmukkaa ja aloittaa resori. Onko ohjeessa vai sen tulkitsijana vikaa?

06.03.2019 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, nämä lisäykset tehdään yhteensä 4 kertaa, eli ensimmäinen lisäyskerros + vielä 8 cm välein 3 kertaa.

06.04.2019 - 14:07