DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Raspberry Kiss

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Belle. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 202-6
DROPS design: Pattern vs-058
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-94-104-112-124-136 cm = 34 5/8”-37”-41”-44”-48 3/4”-53 1/2”
Full length: 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 11, old pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6, length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Flower (pink), NO 616: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1-A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 118 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 36.
In this example decrease by knitting every 35th and 36th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to body and sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.6 as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.6 and knit 2 together, knit A.6, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 189 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 7.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 7th and 8th stitch. On next row (wrong side) work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 3 knit stitches in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitch in stockinette stitch on sleeves and work pattern on front and back piece.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then decrease the next 4 approx. 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 118-118-123-128-138-143 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Belle. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, (knit 3/purl 2) until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm = 3/4” - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Knit 1 row while decreasing 3-3-2-7-1-6 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 115-115-121-121-137-137 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work the 5 band stitches in garter stitches).

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work in PATTERN - read explanation above, as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 0-0-1-1-0-0, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-16-21-21 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 15, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 2, 1 yarn over, A.2 over the next 3-3-5-5-7-7 stitches, A.3a over the next 14-14-14-14-16-16 stitches, A.3b over the next 11-11-11-11-13-13 stitches, A.4 over the next 3-3-5-5-7-7 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 15, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 2, make 1 yarn over, A.5 over the next 16-16-16-16-21-21 stitches, knit 0-0-1-1-0-0, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). 8 stitches have been increased for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 24-26-29-32-35-38 times in total = 307-323-353-377-417-441 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, continue pattern the same way. When all increases for raglan are done, piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from cast-on edge and down mid front. Work next row as follows: NOTE: In size S and L divide the piece for sleeves and body at the marker threads. In size M, XL, XXL and XXXL work some of the stitches (= 1-2-1-3 stitches) on sleeves on to needle for body, so that the transition between body and sleeves are now longer at the marker threads. Work the first 47-50-53-58-64-69 stitches, slip the next 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 83-89-97-107-119-129 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 47-50-53-58-64-69 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 193-209-227-247-271-295 stitches. Work pattern A.6 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves, 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards and work as many repetitions of pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.6 in each side - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased) = 189-205-223-243-267-291 stitches. When piece measures 15 cm = 6” (adjust to finish after one whole lace pattern vertically and some rounds with stockinette stitch), increase 24-28-35-40-46-47 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP = 213-233-258-283-313-338 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 8 stitches remain on row, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 2 cm = 3/4”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when binding off. Jacket measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-12-12-14 stitches under sleeve = 73-77-87-89-97-101 stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and work A.8 over the middle 8 stitches under sleeve. When piece measures 4-4-3-3-3-2 cm = 1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”, decrease 2 stitches under sleeves - remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease like this on alternately every 2 and 3 cm = 3/4” and 1 1/8” 11 times in total.
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” 12 times in total.
Size L: Decrease like this on every 1,5 cm = 1/2” 16 times in total.
Size XL: Decrease like this on every 1,5 cm = 1/2” 16 times in total.
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm = 3/8” 19 times in total.
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm = 3/8” 20 times in total.
When all decreases on sleeve are done there are 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches on round. Continue until sleeve measures 31-30-29-27-25-23 cm = 12 1/4”-11 3/4”-11 3/8”-10 5/8”-9 3/4”-9”. Now increase 4-7-5-8-6-9 stitches evenly = 55-60-60-65-65-70 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib (knit 3/purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when binding off. Sleeve measures approx. 33-32-31-29-27-25 cm = 13”-12 1/2”-12 1/4”-11 3/8”-10 5/8”-9 3/4”. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (from wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = Knot: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until you have increased from 1 to 5 stitches. You now have the 5 stitches on right needle. Pass 2nd stitch (the next to last stitch on right needle) over the outermost stitch, pass 3rd stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 4th stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 5th stitch over first stitch (= 1 knot).
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Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (73)

country flag Els wrote:

Ik zou 202-6 tot net over de taille willen verlengen en heb 11 bollen Drops Belle. Is dat mogelijk? Kan ik ipv breinaalden zonder knop ook een rondbreinaald heen en weer gebruiken? Dank voor uw antwoord. Vriendelijke groet, Els

29.01.2024 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Els,

Ja, je zou ook op de rondbreinaald kunnen breien, van midden voor tot midden voor. Het hangt een beetje af van je maat hoeveel bollen je nodig hebt. Als je de grootste maat breit, heb je misschien nog wat extra bollen nodig, maar anders kom je heel ver als je het vestje ietsje wilt verlengen.

31.01.2024 - 20:07

country flag Jacci wrote:

Kan ik dit vestje ook met gewone breinaalden breien? En als dat kan waar moet ik dan op letten?

21.12.2023 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacci,

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier. Niet alle patronen zijn hier geschikt voor, maar kijk maar even of je wat kunt met deze uitleg.

10.01.2024 - 10:09

country flag Valérie wrote:

Merci beaucoup

08.08.2023 - 13:37

country flag Valérie wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour votre prompte réponse. J’ai bien compris que les points fantaisie devaient être alignés entre les devants et le dos. Ma question est de savoir si je dois répéter ce point fantaisie (noeud + 3 trous) sous les manches ou si je dois juste faire le point A 6 soit 2 mailles ensemble + un jeté tous les 4 rangs. Merci

07.08.2023 - 11:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous tricotez les 8 mailles de A.6 sous les 2 manches (= sur les deux côtés) jusqu'aux côtes du bas du gilet (et donc les points fantaisie comme avant sur les devants et le dos). Bon tricot!

08.08.2023 - 08:45

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour, je n’ai pas compris votre réponse à Caroline le 18.08.2021 concernant le motif des 8 mailles sous la manche 1- est-ce que je commence A6 au même rangs que le reste du motif ? 2- pourquoi A6 se répète au 4 rangs ? (On ne peut pas aligner le motif A6 avec le reste des autres diagrammes si on le répète au 4 rangs). Ou est-ce que ça signifie que le motif sous les manches est différent de celui du devant et du dos ? Merci beaucoup

06.08.2023 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous devez aligner les motifs ajourés de chaque devant et du dos, par conséquent, les 6 mailles sous la manche ne seront tricotées en point fantaisie que si cela est possible, si vous ne le pouvez pas, tricotez ces mailles en jersey, ainsi, sur les côtés, il y aura davantage de jersey entre les motifs ajourés, ce qui compte avant tout est de bien aligner en hauteur les motifs des devants et du dos. Bon tricot!

07.08.2023 - 11:00

country flag Kremer wrote:

Merci beaucoup !

02.09.2022 - 09:14

country flag Kremer wrote:

Merci beaucoup ! Du coup j’ai réussi à rattraper. J’essaie de comprendre «  en taille M tricoter 1m des manches pour le dos/devant » et je bloque… si vous pouviez encore m’aider, je vous serais très reconnaissante… À bientôt!

01.09.2022 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kremer, lorsque l'on va diviser l'ouvrage, la division ne se fait pas aux fils marqueurs mais bien comme indiqué par le nombre de mailles, autrement dit, la maille après le marqueur au début de la manche et la maille avant le marqueur suivant à la fin de la manche (en taille M) sont désormais tricotées pour le devant/le dos et plus pour les manches. Bon tricot!

02.09.2022 - 08:47

country flag Kremer wrote:

Bonjour!Quand il est dit: « Continuer ainsi en allers et retours en augmentant 24-26-29-32-35-38 fois au total tous les 2 rangs = 307-323-353-377-417-441 mailles », en taille M je suis sensée obtenir 323 m et j’en ai 340… du coup, je voulais savoir si dans les 323m , on compte les 2x5 mailles de bordures…. J’essaie de voir comment je peux rattraper ça. Si vous avez une idée pour m’aider…À bientôt, O

30.08.2022 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kremer, les mailes de bordure des devants sont incluses dans les 323 mailles, vous aviez 115 mailles avant l'empiècement et augmentez 26 fois 8 m pour le raglan soit 208 mailles + les 115 mailles = vous devez bien avoir 323 mailles. Peut-être avez vous trop augmenté ? Ou bien regardé du côté du point fantaisie (votre nombre de mailles ne doit pas être modifié par le point fantaisie juste par les augmentations du raglan). Bon tricot!

31.08.2022 - 07:40

country flag Bettina Moser-Conrad wrote:

Guten Tag, ich habe Schwierigkeiten bei dieser Anleitung die Maschen unter den Armen aufzufassen und das Muster A6 weiter zu stricken. Da beim Rundstricken nun keine Rückreihen mehr erforderlich sind, sieht es irgendwie immer anders aus und ich komme nicht auf das ursprüngliche Muster. Haben Sie einen Tip für mich? Danke und viele Grüße Bettina

24.08.2022 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Moser-Conrad, wenn Sie A.6 in Runden für die Ärmel stricken, lesen Sie jede Reihe in A.6 rechts nach links, dh die Maschen werden immer rechts gestrickt und das Lochmuster ensteht in jeder 4. Runde. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

24.08.2022 - 13:32

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour, Serais ce possible d’avoir le patron en français ? Merci

27.06.2022 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, tout à fait, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour changer de langue et ainsi trouver les explications en français. Bon tricot!

28.06.2022 - 08:16