DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Birch Woods Jacket

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 202-12
DROPS design: Pattern ai-206
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-106-118-126-138-150 cm = 39 3/8”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”-59”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 02, wheat

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
16 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9, length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 80 cm = 32” for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 3, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 51 cm = 1 1/8”, 4 3/4”, 8 3/4”, 12 1/2”, 16 1/2” and 20”
M: 3, 13, 23, 33, 43 and 53 cm = 1 1/8”, 5 1/8”, 9”, 13”, 17” and 21”
L: 4, 15, 25, 35, 45 and 55 cm = 1 1/2”, 6”, 9 3/4”, 13 3/4”, 17 3/4” and 21 5/8”
XL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39, 48 and 57, cm = 1 1/8”, 4 3/4”, 8 1/4”, 11 3/4, 15 1/4, 19” and 22 1/2”
XXL: 3, 13, 22, 31, 40, 49 and 59 cm = 1 1/8”, 5 1/8”, 8 3/4”, 12 1/4”, 15 3/4”, 19 1/4” and 23 1/4”
XXXL: 4, 15, 24, 33, 42, 51 and 61 cm = 1 1/2”, 6”, 9 1/2”, 13”,16 1/2”, 20” and 24”

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.4 to A.9).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch/pattern.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
All decreases are done from the right side!
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 249 stitches), minus band stitches (10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 38) = 6.3.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately approx. every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, and work bottom up to armholes. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and finish yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front.

BODY:
Cast on 171-181-201-211-231-251 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH back and forth - read explanation above! Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.2 until 6 stitches remain (= 15-16-18-19-21-23 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.3 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue until A.1, A.2 and A.3 have been worked vertically. Then work in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 12-12-13-14-13-13 cm = 4 3/4”-4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-5 1/8” (or desired measurements - adjust the length of garment here is desired) - REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Work next row from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.4 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.5 until 6 stitches remain (= 15-16-18-19-21-23 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.6 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked vertically.
Repeat A.4, A.5 and A.6 1 more time vertically, but work last row from wrong side as follows: Work 42-45-49-51-55-59 stitches as before (= left front piece), bind off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole, work 75-79-87-93-101-109 stitches as before (= back piece), bind off the next 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches for armhole and work the last 42-45-49-51-55-59 stitches as before (= right front piece) = 159-169-185-195-211-227 stitches. Piece measures approx. 32-32-33-34-35-35 cm = 12 1/2”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-13 3/4”. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 31-33-35-37-39-41 stitches on double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker thread later when increasing mid under sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles/circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Work next round as follows: Knit 0-1-2-3-4-0, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.2 until 1-2-3-4-5-1 stitch remains on round (= 2-2-2-2-2-3 repetitions of 10 stitches), finish by knitting 1-2-3-4-5-1. Continue until A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically. Then work in stockinette stitch - REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 7-7-8-7-9-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”-3 1/8”, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1”-3/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” 10-12-14-15-16-16 times in total = 51-57-63-67-71-73 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-19-19-18-16-14 cm = 8 1/4”-7 1/2”-7 1/2”-7”-6 1/4”-5 1/2” (or desired measurements - adjust the sleeve length here if desired), work A.5 over all stitches – adjust so that stitch with star is mid on top of sleeve, and adjust pattern out to each side. I.e. when increases under sleeve are done, work as follows: Knit 0-3-1-3-0-1, A.4 (= 10 stitches), A.5 (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.6 over 1 stitch and knit 0-3-1-3-0-1. Work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stockinette stitch, and work the increased stitches in pattern A.4/A.5/A.6 (make sure to have the same number of decreases and yarn overs in the pattern). Continue this pattern until A.5 has been worked vertically. Repeat A.4/A.5/A.6 1 more time vertically, but work last round as follows: Bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole, work 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches as before and bind off the last 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches for armhole = 45-51-55-59-61-61 stitches. Piece measures approx. 41-39-39-38-38-36 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15 1/4”-15”-15”-14 1/4” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle 5.5 mm = US 9 as body where armholes were bind off = 249-271-295-313-333-349 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin from right side and work first row as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.7 over the next 10 stitches, repeat A.8 until 6 stitches remain (number of stitches does not fit on 1st row – except in size M), A.9 over next stitch, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern - AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow in A.7/A.8 decrease evenly as explained below:
ARROW-1 (= wrong side): Decrease 38-40-44-42-42-38 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 211-231-251-271-291-311 stitches.
(Now work A.8 19-21-23-25-27-29 times in width).
ARROW-2 (= wrong side): Decrease 40-50-50-50-40-40 stitches evenly = 171-181-201-221-251-271 stitches.
(Now work A.8 15-16-18-20-23-25 times in width).
ARROW-3 (= wrong side): Decrease 40-40-40-40-40-40 stitches evenly = 131-141-161-181-211-231 stitches.
(Now work A.8 11-12-14-16-19-21 times in width).
ARROW-4 (= wrong side): Decrease 28-30-42-30-40-40 stitches evenly = 103-111-119-151-171-191 stitches.
ARROW-5: Decrease 16-20-18-28-42-30 stitches evenly = 87-91-101-123-129-161 stitches.

SIZE: XL-XXL:
ARROW-6: Decrease 18-20 stitches evenly = 105-109 stitches.

SIZE XXXL:
ARROW-6 (= wrong side): Decrease 28 stitches evenly = 133 stitches.
ARROW-7 (= wrong side): Decrease 20 stitches evenly = 113 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
When entire A.7, A.8 and A.9 have been worked, yoke measures approx. 20-22-23-24-25-27 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work 2 ridges in garter stitch back and forth. Loosely bind off by knitting from right side but make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge (switch to larger needle size if needed).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.06.2020
New chart A.3, row 9.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted (= NOT hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = purl 3 together
symbols = decrease row
symbols = middle stitch mid on top of sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Dorthe I wrote:

Allerførst tusind tak for de mest fantastiske opskrifter - og garn👌\r\nMit spørgsmål lyder 202 -11 Birch Wood skal efter 1.pil’s indtagning have 251 masker .\r\nDer står; strik 23 mønstre i bredden i A8.\r\nJeg får altså 24 mønstre i bredden ( 251- 10 =241:10 = 24.

15.08.2023 - 22:32

country flag Doris Brøns wrote:

Prøver da bare igen Jeg er i gang med at strikke 202-12. Så mit spørgsmål er: er det rigtig at jeg får 20 rapporter. Samtidig vil jeg høre hvorfor skal man tage ud midt i det hele og ind igen. Med venlig hilsen Doris Brøns

26.06.2023 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Doris. Du skal strikke 21 rapporter av A.2. I str. XXL har du 231 masker og etter at du har byttet til rundpinne 5,5 strikker du 5 stolpemasker + A.1 (over 10 masker) + A.2 21 ganger (1 rapport på 10 masker x 21 ganger) + A.3 (1 maske) + 5 stoplemasker = 5+10+210+1+5= 231 masker. Du øker masker i diagrammene slik at det ikke snurper seg, men heller får en penere overgang mellom hullmønster og glattstrikkpartiene. mvh DROPS Design

26.06.2023 - 13:48

country flag Doris Brøns wrote:

Jeg er igang med at strikke 202-12 i strikke xl. Der står at der er 19 rapporter a 10 masker, kan det så være rigtig at jeg har 20 rapporter? Er det rigtig at man skal tage ud på A,5 og ind igen. Med venlig hilsen Doris Brøns

26.06.2023 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Doris. Se våre svar over. mvh DROPS Design

26.06.2023 - 13:49

country flag Yasmine wrote:

Merci pour ce beau modèle de veste !

29.09.2022 - 02:41

country flag Yasmine wrote:

Bonjour ! J’ai 3 questions concernant les symboles du motif A.1\r\n1) Le 1er rang est- il à l’envers ?\r\n2) On commence le rang par 1 jeté et 2 mailles ensemble à l’envers, puis 3 mailles (endroit ou envers) puis 1 jeté et 2 mailles ensemble ou un surjet simple ?\r\n3) Les 2 symboles signifient chacun 1 jeté, 3 m. ensemble à l’envers, 1 jeté. Ce qui nous donne 8 mailles au lieu de 10 \r\nMerci de m’éclairer et de m’excuser si je me suis trompée !

29.09.2022 - 02:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Yasmine, le 1er rang de A.1 ainsi que tous les rangs impairs se tricotent sur l'endroit, tricotez ainsi: (1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, 3 m end, 1 jeté, 1 surjet simple, 3 m end) =1+1+3+1+1+3=10. Pensez à bien mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme (après A.1 puis après chaque A.2) pour bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon tricot!

29.09.2022 - 08:50

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

On the body of this jacket, do you do A4 A5 A6 two times or three times before you get to the yoke? The pattern says to repeat A4 A5 A6 one more time but the picture shows the pattern repeated three times total before the yoke section.

06.08.2022 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patty, if you have the correct gauge there should be only 2 repeats up to armholes. You have 31-34 cm from the start to the yoke. This is approx. 70 rows (if you have the right gauge). The lace pattern diagrams (A.4, A.5 and A.6) have 25 rows each. With 2 repeats of each, you would have 50 rows worked. Adding the first rows with diagrams A.1 and A.2, you would not have enough rows for a third repeat, or else the body would be much longer. Also, afterwards, you continue the yoke with A.7, A.8 and A.9 (which are similarly looking). Happy knitting!

07.08.2022 - 22:38

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

The directions for the sleeve say to work A5 vertically and then repeat A4 A5 A6 1 more time. The sleeve is not long enough with only one repeat of A4 A5 A6 so shouldn't I do this diagram one more time--a total of three times? The picture looks like the diagram is repeated 3 times.

06.07.2022 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walk, A.5-A.6 are worked only 2 times in height on sleeves - you will then work A.7/A.8 on yoke together with body. Just cast off the middle sts for armhole on the last round of the diagrams. Happy knitting!

06.07.2022 - 14:12

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

Do I continue doing the A5 diagram only until I finish all of the increases and then do diagram A4, A5, A6? What if I finish the increases in the middle of the A5 diagram? Do I finish A5 before I begin A4 A5 A6?

01.07.2022 - 09:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walk, you are starting increases mid under sleeve when working stocking stitch but at the same time you work A.5 when piece measures 21-19-19-18-16-14 cm (continue increases if they are not done - just make sure the middle stitch on the upper sleeve is the stitch with a star in the diagram), and work the new stitches as shown in A.4./A.5/A.6 so that after all increases are done the sts on needle are worked as follows: Knit 0-3-1-3-0-1, A.4 (= 10 stitches), A.5 (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 10 stitches), A.6 over 1 stitch and knit 0-3-1-3-0-1 (see your size). Happy knitting!

01.07.2022 - 16:06

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

When working the sleeve, how do you do the row following the yarn overs where you are supposed to do a twisted stitch but you are purling ? How do you do a twisted stitch to avoid a hole when you are purling? Thank you for your help.

30.06.2022 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walk, this video shows (time code 01:12 ) how to purl a yarn over twisted, ie purl it in the back loop - can this help? Happy knitting!

30.06.2022 - 14:18

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

Since I'm knitting in the round on the sleeves, do I still knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side or knit all empty squares and purl the "X" squares?

29.06.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walk, you are right you will knit the empty squares and purl the x squares since you now always work from RS on sleeve. Happy knitting!

29.06.2022 - 13:03