DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Date Night

Knitted dress with round yoke in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 206-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-060
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm = 33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2”-36 1/4”-37”-37 3/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 08, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 7.20 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
The elevation is worked in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Start from the right side and knit 7-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker thread, turn tighten the strand and knit 14-16-16-18-18-20 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 21-24-24-27-27-30, turn tighten the strand and knit 28-32-32-36-36-40 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 35-40-40-45-45-50, turn tighten the strand and knit 42-48-48-54-54-60 back. Turn tighten the strand and knit 49-56-56-63-63-70, turn tighten the strand and knit 56-64-64-72-72-80 stitches, turn tighten strand and knit back to the marker thread.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 4.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Then it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 92-96-100-108-112-118 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Sky. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above.
Knit 1 round and increase 22-24-26-24-26-26 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-120-126-132-138-144 stitches. Purl 1 round. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
For a better fit you can now work an elevation at the back of the neck; makes the neck slightly higher – read ELEVATION. This elevation can be left out, which leaves the neck the same front and back.
Work A.1 (= 6 stitches) over all stitches (= a total of 19-20-21-22-23-24 times in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
On each round with a star (= increase-round) increase as follows:
INCREASE 1: Increase 24-24-24-24-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 138-144-150-156-168-174 stitches. A.1 repeats 23-24-25-26-28-29 times in width.
INCREASE 2: Increase 12-18-24-24-24-30 stitches evenly spaced = 150-162-174-180-192-204 stitches. A.1 repeats 25-27-29-30-32-34 times in width.
INCREASE 3: Increase 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 156-168-180-192-204-216 stitches. A.1 repeats 26-28-30-32-34-36 times in width.
When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8” from the cast-on edge. Work A.2 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches (= 13-14-15-16-17-18 times in width).
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are 273-308-330-368-391-414 stitches on the round. On the next round increase 7-4-8-0-1-12 stitches evenly spaced = 280-312-338-368-392-426 stitches. The piece measures approx. 21-22-22-24-24-24 cm = 8 1/4”-8 3/4”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-29 cm = 8 1/4”-8”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/8” from the cast-on edge. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work stockinette stitch over the first 38-42-45-51-56-62 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work stockinette stitch over the next 76-84-91-102-112-125 stitches, place the next 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work stockinette stitch over the last 38-42-46-51-56-63 stitches. Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
There are 168-184-202-224-248-274 stitches for the body.
Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeves; allow them to follow your work onwards, they will be used when increasing in the sides. When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2nd cm = every 3/4" a total of 25 times = 268-284-302-324-348-374 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 55-55-56-56-56-57 cm = 21 5/8”-21 5/8”-22”-22”-22”-22 1/2”. Work 1 round where you increase 2-4-4-0-0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 270-288-306-324-348-378 stitches. Work A.3 (= 6 stitches) the whole round. When A.3 is finished in height change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work garter stitch for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with knit. The piece measures approx. 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm = 33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2”-36 1/4”-37”-37 3/4” from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-72-78-82-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve = 72-80-88-92-96-100 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 13-16-19-19-20-21 times = 46-48-50-54-56-58 stitches. When the sleeve measures 42-41-40-39-37-36 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-14 1/4” (short measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4. Work garter stitch for 2 cm = 3/4” then bind off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-41-39-38 cm = 17 1/4”-17”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.03.2021
BODY: ... Increase like this every 2nd cm = every 3/4" inch a total of 25 times = 268-284-302-324-348-374 stitches...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = increase-round; on this round increase stitches evenly spaced as explained in the text
symbols = this square is no stitch (due to displacement at beginning of round), go directly to next symbol in diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Ich würde gerne wissen welche Größe xxxl sein soll 42 oder 48 oder gar 50 oder 54 vielleicht ? Ich kann mit Xxxl nicht so viel anfangen als Angabe bin aber eben eine korpulente Frau

25.02.2024 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stephanie, messen Sie eine ähnliche Kleidung, die sie gerne haben, und vergleichen Sie mit der Maßskizze, so finden Sie die beste passenden Größe - hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.02.2024 - 10:28

country flag Eva-Maria Dewes wrote:

Ich stricke gerade dieses Kleid. Normalerweise passt es immer, wenn ich die angegebene Nadelstärke verwende. Hierbei komme ich einfach nicht auf das Maß. Mit Nadel 4 fehlen mir nach A2 mehrere cm.... ich muss auf 5er Nadeln ausweichen, um die Maschenprobe annähernd hinzubekommen. Kann das sein? Und wo wird gemessen. Hinten am Nacken (wo die optionale Erhöhung gestrickt wurde( oder vorne am Hals Ausschnitt? Lieben Dank für Ihre Hilfe und herzliche Grüße, Eva-Maria Dewes

21.11.2023 - 16:35

country flag Judy Poleg wrote:

Hi, I would like to knit this beautiful dress for my granddaughter who lives far from me, so I would have to rely on her measurements. However, please advise which size I should knit for a 13-14 year old. (She is actually only 9, but extremely tall for her age. ) Many thanks in advance. Judy Poleg

22.10.2023 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Judy, it would be best to get the measurements and compare them to our drawing. However, if this is not possible, women's size S will be suitable. Take care and happy knitting!

22.10.2023 - 13:07

country flag Judy Poleg wrote:

Hi, I would like to knit this beautiful dress for my granddaughter, who is 9 years old, but extremely tall. She lives in the US, so I would have to work according to her measurements. I think I should aim for a size to fit a 13-14 year old, so please advise which size to knit. Many thanks in advance. Judy Poleg

06.10.2023 - 17:25

country flag Marjo Vliegen wrote:

Ik brei deze jurk. Maar al bij het begin klopt het telpatroon niet. Ik lees het van boven naar beneden. Maar ik krijg het omgekeerde patroon. Moet ik van beneden naar boven lezen.

09.09.2023 - 17:47

country flag Manuela Bottler wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, ich stricke gerade Date nightin Größe M und hänge gerade bei der Maschenaufteilung für Ärmel und Rumpf. Ich habe wie laut Anleitung 312 Maschen auf der Nadel, wenn ich die Maschen aufteilen wie in der Anleitung beschrieben, 2x 72M für Ärmel, 2x 84 M für Voder- und Rückrnteil und 2x 8 M für unter den Armen, so fehlen mir 16 Maschen? Wo ist mein Denkfehler? Danke für Eure Antworten. Herzliche Grüße Manuela

28.02.2022 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manuela, die 2 x 8 Maschen die unter Ärmel angeschlagen sind, gehören nicht zu den 312 M (aber zu den 184 M vom Rumpfteil), dh es sind: 84 M x 2 (Vorder + Rückenteil) und 72 M x 2 (Ärmel)= 312 M, die je 8 Maschen ersetzen die jeweiligen 72 stillgelegten Maschen für die Ärmel: 84 M x 2 (Vorder + Rückenteil) + 8 M x 2 (unter jeder Ärmel) = 184 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.02.2022 - 10:46

country flag Heidi Hansen wrote:

Finner ikke målene i mønsteret Brystvidde Lengde Ermlengde

10.10.2021 - 09:51

country flag Rianne Oprel wrote:

@Gerda en @Desiree: als je kijkt naar de Noorse beschrijving, dan staat daar dat je elke 2 cm moet meerderen, i.p.v. elke 2e naald. Is de jurk leuk geworden? Ik wil hem ook graag gaan breien.

17.08.2020 - 18:46

country flag Else-Maj Hamunen wrote:

Tehty mukava malli kutoa.

29.02.2020 - 09:11

country flag Gerda wrote:

De meerderingen van het lijf kloppen niet. Ik ben op 35 cm na de mouw, alle meerderingen zijn al lang gedaan, en bij het passen is het een zwangerschaps model. Elke 2e naald een meerdering is niet goed, mijn breisel lijkt niet op het model.

07.01.2020 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

Heb het nagekeken en ik denk inderdaad dat er een fout in zit en dat het elke 2,5 cm moet zijn, i.p.v. elke 2e naald. Het is doorgegeven aan design ter controle, zodat er waarschijnlijk een correctie op komt, maar waarschijnlijk kun je eerst wel verder met deze informatie.

18.01.2020 - 12:40