DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Weaving Memories

Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with textured pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 208-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-237
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-120-128-136-148 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-47 1/4”-50 3/8”-53 1/2”-58 1/8”
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-500-550-650 g color 02, wheat

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

TEXTURED PATTERN:
The textured pattern is worked in stripes. 1 edge stitch in garter stitch is worked on each side of each piece to finished length.
Work as follows:
STRIPE 1: Work A.1.
STRIPE 2: Work A.2 for 23-24-24-25-25-25 cm = 9”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4” – adjust so you finish after row 1 or row 3 in the diagram. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
STRIPE 3: Work A.1.
STRIPE 4: Work A.3 for 8-8-8-8-10-10 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4”-4” - adjust so you finish after row 4 or row 8 in the diagram.
STRIPE 5: Work A.1.
STRIPE 6: Work A.2 for 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” – adjust so you finish after row 1 or row 3 in the diagram. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
STRIPE 7: Work A.1.
STRIPE 8: Work A.3 for 6-6-8-8-8-10 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-4” - adjust so you finish after row 4 or row 8 in the diagram.
STRIPE 9: Work 2 rows stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches,) minus the edge stitches (=2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 10.8.
In this example decrease by knitting together alternatively each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch. Do not decrease over the edge stitches.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 32 stitches), minus the edge stitches (= 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 3.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches into the pattern.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections, which are sewn together to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-108-114-120-132 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 1, purl1) until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Now work TEXTURED PATTERN – read description above, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 80-86-98-104-110-120 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 18”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”-20” bind off 0-0-3-3-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 80-86-92-98-98-108 stitches. In sizes S and M no stitches are bind off; to mark the armholes, insert a marker thread on each side of the piece. When stripe 8 is finished, bind off the middle 24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 27-30-33-35-35-40 stitches. Work 1 ridge over all stitches then bind off. The piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30” from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-108-114-120-132 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl1) until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Now work textured pattern in the same way as on the back piece, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, AT THE SAME TIME, on the first row from the right side, decrease 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches evenly spaced = 80-86-98-104-110-120 stitches. When the piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 18”-18 1/2”-19”-19 1/4”-19 3/4”-20” bind off 0-0-3-3-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 80-86-92-98-98-108 stitches. In sizes S and M no stitches are bind off; to mark the armholes insert a marker thread on each side of the piece. When the piece measures 60-62-62-64-66-66 cm = 23 5/8”-24 3/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”-26”-26” place the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue by binding off on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 27-30-33-35-35-40 stitches on the shoulder. When all the stripes in the textured pattern are finished in height, work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off. The piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30” from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 32-34-36-36-38-40 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl1) until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side; at the same time, increase 8 stitches evenly spaced on the first row – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 40-42-44-44-46-48 stitches. When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 9-11-11-11-11-8 cm = 3 1/2”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-3 1/8” increase 1 stitch on each side of the piece – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3-3-3-2½-2½-2½ cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-7/8” a total of 13-14-14-16-16-17 times = 66-70-72-76-78-82 stitches. When the piece measures 55-54-54-53-54-53 cm = 21 5/8”-21 1/4”-21 1/4”-21”-21 1/4”-21” bind off. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight! Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge; you now have 2 ridges on the top of the shoulder – make sure the seam is not tight. Sew the sleeves to the body, inside the 1 edge stitch on the body and the bind-off edge on the sleeves. In sizes S and M the marker threads show where the armhole begins. In sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL the armhole starts with the bind-off stitches on the body. Sew the sleeve seams and continue down the side seams.

NECK:
Start from the right side with Air and short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Knit up approx. 76-90 stitches around the neck including the stitches from the thread in front.
Purl 1 round and knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Purl 1 round then bind off with purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Hanne Rosgaard Kristensen wrote:

Hej kan man ikke strikke bullen på rundpind og så dele og strikke frem og tilbage når man deler til ærmegab? Mvh Hanne

03.04.2023 - 20:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, jo det gør du som du vil :)

13.04.2023 - 11:47

country flag Flora Vezzá wrote:

Sou brasileira e gostaria de saber os nomes dos pontos em português do Brasil, seria possível? Lá usamos ponto meia e ponto tricô, jarreteira são os cordões de tricô? Ponto liga é o ponto tricô ?

26.12.2021 - 14:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, A equivalência é: Brasil = ponto meia Portugal = ponto meia Brasil = ponto tircô Portugal = ponto liga Brasil = cordões de tricô Portugal = ponto jarreteira Sim, o ponto liga é o ponto tricô. Bons tricôs!

04.01.2022 - 10:42

country flag Eliška Tomanová wrote:

Dobrý den, ráda bych se prosím zeptala jak doplést přední a zadní díl. Nerozumím tomu, když uzavřu prostřední oka a nebo je odložím na pomocnou jehlici, jak potom dopletu další řady (vroubek) ? A pletu tedy jen tu část na průkrčník nebo i s těmi oky pro náramenice? Omlouvám se, tohle je první svetr co pletu takto po dílech tak tomu ještě moc nerozumím. Předem děkuji za odpověď. Přeji hezký den, Eliška

14.12.2021 - 10:42

country flag Lhonoré wrote:

Peux t'on employer des aiguilles droites. Merci

23.03.2021 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lhonoré, tout à fait, on tricote ici sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour toutes les mailles, vous pouvez utiliser des aiguilles droites, vos mailles seront juste plus serrées - ajustez pour tricoter le col en rangs aussi et non en rond comme dans le modèle. Cette leçon pourra fort probablement vous aider aussi. Bon tricot!

24.03.2021 - 08:33

country flag Janna Stenholt wrote:

Har strikker denne i bug merino, vasket den somanvist!! Nu står jeg med en trøje der er blevet til en XXL har strikket den i L Ikke første gang det sker, hvad gør jeg fejl ????

22.03.2021 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janna. Det er kjedelig når det skjer, men når det strikkes med Merino garn er det veldig viktig å overholde og følge vaskeanvisningen. Selv om merino er ull, skal den ikke vaskes på ullprogram / håndvask, den trenger litt hardere behandling (40`C finvask). På div håndarbeid forumer har jeg lest at mange har tørket sine merino plagg i tørketrommel, da har plagget fått sin form og størrelse tilbake. mvh DROPS design

22.03.2021 - 13:59

country flag Birgitte Toft wrote:

Hej - jeg vil gerne strikke denne i et garn, der svarer til Mayflower New Sky - det er 41 % Uld, 41 % Alpakka, 18 % Nylon, ca. 150 m pr. 50 gram. Jeg er lidt i tvivl om hvorvidt det er Drops Air eller Drops Nepal, der kommer nærmest. Jeg er lidt bange for, at Air bliver lidt for "blød" - jeg vil gerne have lidt fasthed i sweateren. Bedste hilsner Birgitte

06.01.2021 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, Det er DROPS Air som er modsvarende. MEN hvis du vil have den lidt mere fast så skal du strikke i DROPS Nepal - God fornøjelse!

08.01.2021 - 10:40

country flag Carolin wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, ich habe alle nötigen Einzelteile zu Ende gestrickt und habe jetzt leider festgestellt, dass ich beim Vorderteil beim ersten A1 einen Fehler gemacht habe. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit zu umgehen, das ganze Vorderteil aufzumachen, um den Fehler zu beheben? Vielen vielen Dank bereits.

15.09.2020 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carolin, am besten zeigen Sie Ihr DROPS Laden Ihre Arbeit (auch im Foto per E-Mail), so kann man Ihnen am besten hilfen. Sie können auch in unserer Gruppe DROPS Workshop andere Strickerinnen auch mal fragen, vielleicht kann jemand Ihnen eine Lösung finden?

15.09.2020 - 17:10

country flag Graeme Brown wrote:

I am thinking of knitting this pattern in the round (up to the armholes.) If I do this would you advise omitting the edge stitches and therefore initially casting on 4 fewer stitches? Thanks

10.09.2020 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brown, if you want to work body in the roud you just have to remove 2 sts from the number of sts of front/back piece =( 4 sts in total) - this should then work like this, remember on the armholes that you have 2 sts less on each piece - if there is no decrease/cast off in the size you are working on, cast on 1 stitch on each side for seam allowance. Happy Knitting!

10.09.2020 - 09:55

country flag Paola Pedroni Kaune wrote:

Buenos días, tengo muchas dudas con disminuciones del cuello del delantero, no me cuadran los números. Si descuento los 14 puntos centrales para un chaleco de 108 puntos, me quedan 47 por lado, si a eso les resto los 6 puntos de disminución, no me dan 33 por hombro. Me pueden ayudar, quedaré detenida mientras tanto. Gracias.

27.05.2020 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Paula. El patrón es correcto. Para la talla L (108 puntos), después de las disminuciones según el patrón quedan 92 puntos antes de empezar a cerrar para el escote. 92-14=78 puntos (es decir 39 puntos a cada lado) 39-6 = quedan 33 puntos para el hombro

07.06.2020 - 21:03

country flag Guðmundur Már Einarsson wrote:

Mig vantar garn í þessa peysu, hvað þarf ég mikið fyrir stærð L?

05.05.2020 - 01:06

DROPS Design answered:

Blessaður Guðmundur Már. Fyrir stærð L þá þarftu 450 g. STÆRÐ: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL EFNI: DROPS AIR frá Garnstudio (tilheyrir garnflokki C) 400-400-450-500-500-550 g litur 01, natur. Gangi þér vel.

05.05.2020 - 10:28