Lone Straagaard Tønder wrote:
Hej.Når jeg skal til at strikke ærmegab og har klippet tråden og skal strikke baglæns og starte på ny så passer det jo ikke med at jeg skal strikke ret når jeg kommer over midt bag da skal jeg jo strikke vrang for at de passer med patent mønstret.Jeg mener der hvor man har skiftet omgang. Jeg kan bare ikke få det til at passe.Hilsen Lone
25.03.2024 - 16:51Dinorah López Frahsl wrote:
Hola. La medida horizontal de la orilla del escote en el diagrama es de solo 14cm. En la foto se ve mucho más amplia. Ya lo empecé a tejer pero esos 14 cm (28 de circunferencia) quedan muy reducidos. Hay algún error en la medida? Muchas gracias por su respuesta.
25.02.2024 - 15:29DROPS Design answered:
Hola Dinorah, 14 cm es entre las dos puntas más cercanas, en el lado del hombro hacia el escote, como se ve en el esquema. Pero no el diámetro del cuello. Es decir, 28 cm no es la circunferencia. Si trabajas según la tensión y las instrucciones indicadas, debería quedar la forma del cuello adecuado.
26.02.2024 - 22:45Jo wrote:
In the diagram, the neck size is given as 12 cm for the S size. The neck size on my piece is much larger than this. The tension given is 11 stitches for 10 x 10 cm. When the neck is 62 stitches reduced to 52, I can't see how the expected size is 12 cm. Am I doing something wrong? My neck size is around 20 cm.
05.02.2024 - 22:13DROPS Design answered:
Hi Jo, The cm measurements for the neck are 15 cm in size S, which you then double for the complete neckline = 30 cm. The neck on this garment is loose fitting. Happy crafting!
06.02.2024 - 06:44Sylvie Lachance wrote:
Bonjour, J'ai regardé plusieurs fois les vidéos. Pourquoi les augmentations faites dans A.2 donnent une ligne de raglan très droite, alors que les augmentations faites dans A.3 font un zigzag, sur la première maille (à l'endroit)? Je tricote à l'anglaise, les vidéos sont à la continentale, est-ce que ça change quelque chose? Ça donne l'illusion que quelque chose tire où est tricoté torse, ce qui n'est pas le cas...
14.01.2024 - 16:40DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lachance, pour que les augmentations soient toujours bien alignées dans A.2 et dans A.3, veillez à ce qu'elles soient toujours faites dans la même maille, autrement dit l'avant-dernière maille de A.2 et la 1ère maille de A.3. Bon tricot!
15.01.2024 - 08:38Sicet Mireille wrote:
Ne peut -on pas augmenter autrement que par le diagramme, je n'arrive pas à comprendre . merci
13.12.2023 - 21:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Sicet, peut-être que cette vidéo pourra vous aider alors, elle montre comment tricoter le début des diagrammes. Consultez ensuite cette vidéo pour la suite des diagrammes. Bon tricot!
14.12.2023 - 08:30Solveig wrote:
Hei, ønsker å strikke vest 210-4, strl L. Halskant - stemmer maskeantallet på bare 70 M? Får ikke over hodet...
18.11.2023 - 09:18DROPS Design answered:
Hei Solveig. Stemmer med 70 masker.Prøv å legg opp litt løsere om du ikke får den over hodet. mvh DROPS Design
20.11.2023 - 09:32Emily wrote:
What is the recommended ease for this vest?
20.10.2023 - 00:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Emily, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare the measurements to the one in the chart, this will help you to choose the matching size and the desired ease. Read more here. Happy knitting!
20.10.2023 - 08:40Ewa Edvardsson wrote:
Snälla kan ni förklara efter varv 2 ( dvs jag har stickat det aviga "varvet" och minskat till 56 (stl S) och skall nu börja med A1. redan här blir det väldigt svårt att först och hitta svaret i filmerna. Varv 3 ?? fortsätter jag eller vänder jag ? dvs skall jag sticka från rätan eller avigan? Väldigt märklig beskrivning. Förstår varför det är många frågor ( och jag finner inte svaret på min)
11.10.2023 - 11:51DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ewa, i storlek S skall du minska till 52 (inte 56). Titta på videoen och pausa efter första mönstervarvet, sedan tittar du på diagramtexten, det är samma 2 maskor du stickar varvet ut. Titta på nästa varv på videon och pausa, sedan kollar du på diagramtexten igen... Du kan börja med att sticka en provlapp på själva patenten, så du vet hur den fungerar, när du kan den blir det lätt att följa mönstret :)
17.10.2023 - 13:43Pia Wiingreen wrote:
Vest 210-4. Er i tvivl om omslagene og kan ikke se det tydeligt på filmene. Skal tråden ligge bagved ved vrangmaskerne og foran på retmaskerne?
28.09.2023 - 18:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pia, du laver bare et almindeligt omslag både til vrangmasken og retmasken :)
11.10.2023 - 07:48Chabrol wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaiterais tricoter le modèle Mountain Moraine à la machine à tricoter, ne pouvant pas tricoter à la main suite à un accident à la main droite. Avez les explications adaptées pour ce modèle? Merci beaucoup Cordialement
21.09.2023 - 16:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Chabrol, nous n'avons pas d'explications spécifiques aux machines à tricoter car les réglages sont différents selon la marque, il va vous falloir les adapter en fonction de la vôtre. Peut-être que votre magasin ou bien un forum spécialisé en machines à tricoter pourra vous aider. Merci pour votre compréhension.
21.09.2023 - 16:59
Mountain Moraine |
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Knitted vest in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with English rib. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 210-4 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4 (worked with English rib). DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 62 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 6.2. In this example decrease by purling each 5th and 6th stitch together. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. Stiches are increased for the shoulders before the piece is divided and the front and pieces worked separately as far as the bottom of the armholes. The pieces are rejoined and the body continued in the round. NECK: Cast on 62-62-66-70-70-74 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm = US 10 and Air. Purl 1 round, purl 1 more round and decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches. Purl 1 round. Change to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75. YOKE: Work pattern as follows: A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (= half back piece), A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1 over 12 stitches, A.3 (= 2 stitches = shoulder), A.1 over 10-10-12-14-14-16 stitches (= front piece), A.2 over 2 stitches, A.1 over 12 stitches, A.3 over 2 stitches (= shoulder) and A.1 over the last 4-4-6-6-6-8 stitches (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.1a onwards. When A.2 and A.3 have been completed 1 time in height, repeat A.2a and A.3a onwards; i.e. continue to increase every 6th round, the increased stitches are worked in English rib. When A.2a and A.3a have been worked a total of 8-9-9-10-11-12 times in height there are 132-140-144-156-164-176 stitches on the needle. Work A.1a over all stitches until the piece measures 24-25-25-25-26-26 cm = 9 1/2”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 1/4” at the longest point (i.e. measured along the shoulder); adjust so the next round is purled. Now divide the piece for front and back pieces and the shoulder stitches are bind off as follows: Work 26-28-28-32-34-36 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above (= half back piece), bind off the next 13 stitches (yarn overs are bind off as separate stitches), 1 stitch in garter stitch, work 51-55-57-63-67-73 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= front piece), bind off the next 13 stitches (yarn overs are bind off as separate stitches), work 1 stitch in garter stitch and English rib over the last 25-27-29-31-33-37 stitches. Cut the strand. Now continue the armholes and back piece, working back and forth. Allow the other stitches to remain on the needle. BACK PIECE: = 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches. Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.4 (= 2 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left (i.e. the English rib pattern starts and ends with 1 purled English rib stitch) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth for 10-10-11-12-13-14 cm = 4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-5 1/8”-5 1/2”, measured along the garter stitch; make sure the last row is from the wrong side. Allow the stitches to remain on the needle and work the front piece. FRONT PIECE: Work the 53-57-59-65-69-75 stitches on the front piece in the same way as the back piece. BODY: Work A.1a over the front piece (i.e. the garter stitches on each side become knitted English rib stitches), cast on 3 stitches, work A.1a over the back piece and cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 112-120-124-136-144-156 stitches. Now work A.1a in the round over all the stitches. On the first round work the 3 cast-on stitches under each sleeve without yarn overs. When the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2” (measured from the neck) bind off with knit; yarn overs are bind off as separate stitches (to avoid the bind-off edge being tight). |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |