The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Butterfly Explosion |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 210-11 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagram A.1 and A.3 apply only to sizes S-L-XXL. DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 164 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 27.33. In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 26th and 27th stitch together. BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The body is worked in the round with circular needle. Stitches are bind off for the armholes and the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. The pieces are sewn together to finish. BODY: Cast on 156-164-180-192-208-220 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 5 cm = 2", knit 1 round where you decrease 6 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 150-158-174-186-202-214 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and work as follows. *Knit 2-0-1-0-1-0, work A.1 (= 4 stitches) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time, A.2 (= 14 stitches) a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 times, A.3 (= 5 stitches) 0-1-0-1-0-1 time, knit 3-0-2-0-2-0 *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. Repeat this pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm = 11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜" from the cast-on edge (there is approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm = 6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾" left; you can continue to desired length), bind off stitches for the armholes as follows: Bind off the first 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches, work 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as before, bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as before and bind off the last 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches. Cut the strand. Now finish the front and back pieces separately. Allow the stitches for the front piece to remain on the needle and work the back piece. BACK PIECE. Work the first 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches as follows: Continue with lace pattern over lace pattern (only where you have room for complete repeats of lace pattern in width), the remaining stitches are worked in stockinette stitch and with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above – on each side of the piece. When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20" from the cast-on edge, place the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side (= 18-20-22-25-27-30 stitches on each shoulder). If there is any lace pattern that has been started, finish the pattern and continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece. The shoulders are finished separately. Bind off stitches for the neck on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 1 stitch 2 times = 16-18-20-23-25-28 stitches. Bind off when the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22" from the cast-on edge. Work the other shoulder in the same way. FRONT PIECE: Now work the remaining 67-71-77-83-89-95 stitches for the front piece in the same way as the back piece and until the piece measures 36-38-38-40-40-42 cm = 14¼"-15"-15"-15¾"-15¾"-16½" from the cast-on edge. Place the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side (= 25-27-29-32-34-37 stitches on each shoulder). Each shoulder is finished separately. Work pattern, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece. The stitches which do not fit into the lace pattern in width are worked in stockinette stitch. Bind off stitches from the neck on each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 3 times, then 1 stitch 3 times = 16-18-20-23-25-28 stitches. When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-18½"-19¼"-20" from the cast-on edge, finish in height any lace pattern which has been started, then continue all stitches in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Bind off when the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22" from the cast-on edge. Work the other shoulder in the same way. SLEEVES: Cast on 62-66-66-66-70-70 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1 * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 6 cm = 2⅜", knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 4-6-6-4-6-6 stitches evenly spaced = 58-60-60-62-64-64 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Now continue with pattern as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-1-2-3-3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 a total of 4 times in width, 0-1-1-2-3-3 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat this pattern upwards. When the sleeve measures 16 cm = 6¼", increase 0-0-1-1-1-1 stitch on each side of the piece, inside the 1 edge stitch (= 0-0-2-2-2-2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm = 2⅜" a total of 0-0-1-2-3-4 times = 58-60-62-66-70-72 stitches. When the sleeve measures 46-46-45-44-42-41 cm = 18"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛" from the cast-on edge, insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch at the beginning of the next row. The marker shows where the bottom of the armhole starts. Do not begin any more lace patterns; complete those you have already started. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Bind off when the sleeve measures 49-49-48-47-46-45 cm = 19¼"-19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17¾" - read BINDING-OFF TIP! Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the sleeve seams but leave a split of 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½" at the top of the sleeve (i.e. from the marker on the sleeve). Sew the split at the top of the sleeve to the bottom of the armhole. Then sew the sleeve into the body. NECK: Start on one of the shoulders and knit up from the right side approx. 80 to 100 stitches around the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch (including the stitches on the threads) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air – the number of stitches should be divisible by 4. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (23)
Anna wrote:
Strikker str L og skjønner ikke helt diagrammet til bolen. Forstår jeg det slik : 4 m + (14 m x12) avslutt med 5 m? Men dette stemmer ikke. Fint om dere kunne hjelpe
28.04.2022 - 17:50DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anna, I størrelse L strikker du A.1 en gang (4 masker), A.2 6 ganger (14 x 6 = 84 masker), A.3 en gang (5 masker). Denne rekkefølgen gjentar du en gang til så mønster er likt foran og bak. Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!
29.04.2022 - 07:00Gunilla Skoogh wrote:
Hej! Har börjat med ärmen på denna tröja. Förstår inte hur många maskor jag skall sticka innan jag börjar med mönstret ( den "halva" hålgruppen) efter att jag gjort ökningarna innanför kantmaskan? Efter första ökningen har jag 64 maskor på storlek L o efter andra ökningen 66 maskor. Är det 9 maskor mellan "hålgrupperna" i A2? Mvh Gunilla
14.03.2022 - 07:37DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gunilla. Ja det stämmer att det är 9 maskor mellan hålgrupperna (längst ner på hålgruppen). Du stickar in de ökade maskorna i mönstret. Mvh DROPS Design
16.03.2022 - 14:03Henny Oxholm wrote:
Det gjelder bolen: har bytta til rundpinne 5,5 og skal begynne på: Strikk «2-0-1-0-1-0 masker rett, A1 (4 masker) totalt 0-1-0-1-0-1 gang . A2 (14 masker) totalt 5-5-6-6-7-7 ganger, A3 (5 masker) totalt 0-1-0-1-0-1 gang, 3-0-2-0-2-0 masker rett», strikk fra «-« totalt 2 ganger. Det står rettelse at diagram A1 og A3 gjelder for M. Jeg skal strikke M og får ikke forklaringen over til å stemme. Trenger hjelp. Der jeg kjöpte garnet (Drops-forhandler) kunne ikke hjelpe meg!
05.01.2022 - 16:38DROPS Design answered:
Hej Henny. Du ska sticka 1 + (14 (=A.2) x 6) + 2 och upprepa detta en gång till på varvet. Då stämmer det. A.1 och A.3 stickas alltså inte i storlek M, vi ska se över den förklaringen. Mvh DROPS Design
11.01.2022 - 13:23Jitka wrote:
Dobry den, nerozumim jak plest v kruhove rade velikost M, pro kterou plati pouze vzor A2. Pletu stale hladce ne zerzej, kdyz pletu do kruhu? Vzor A2 plati jen spodni cast obrazku? Vrchni cast neslozi motylka, kdyz pletu vel. M , tedy vynechavam A1 a A3?
06.04.2021 - 22:47Christine Vogel wrote:
I love this pattern! I do have a question about the back piece section. While working the shoulder pieces it says to bind off 1 stitch 2 times = 20 stitches (for M size). I’m not sure what this means. Based on the previous sentence, it sounds like this action would happen for each row closest to the neck but am still unclear about what the bind off 1 st 2 times means. Please clarify. Thank you!
24.02.2021 - 20:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Vogel, you are right, when working the shoulder separately after you have slipped the middle stitches for neck on a thread, you will cast off stitches at the beginning of the row starting from neck towards shoulder and this will be worked 2 times (= over 4 rows : 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows starting from the neck towars shoulder). Happy knitting!
25.02.2021 - 07:21Carmel wrote:
Très joli modèle, mais je viens de défaire le dos et devant jusqu'à la division pour l'encolure parce que beaucoup trop large.Si ça peut aider.
14.02.2021 - 09:34Aimee wrote:
Greetings from the US! Would you recommend wet blocking before or after assembling the sleeves to the body? Thank you in advance!
26.01.2021 - 03:48DROPS Design answered:
Dear Aimee, it's a personnal choice, some people never block, some people block before sewing and some after sewing... Just make as you feel it right for you. Enjoy!
26.01.2021 - 09:19Decourty Monique wrote:
Bonjour, Es ce possible de faire un e vos modèles dont celui là avec des aiguilles droites? Je n'arrive vraiment pas a utilisé des aiguilles circulaire. Bien a vous. Monique
08.05.2020 - 10:18DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Decourty, la plupart de nos modèles peuvent facilement d'adapter sur aiguilles droites (plus d'infos ici). Bon tricot!
08.05.2020 - 11:00Brigitte wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les explications du devant « Rabattre à partir de l'encolure tous les rangs à partir de l'encolure: 3 fois 2 mailles, 3 fois 1 maille = 16-18-20-23-25-28 mailles. » merci pour votre aide. Cordialement
21.04.2020 - 16:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Brigitte, quand vous avez mis en attente les mailles de l'encolure, vous terminez chaque épaule séparément, et, au début de chaque rang qui commence côté encolure (sur l'endroit pour le côté droit/sur l'envers pour le côté gauche), on va rabattre des mailles supplémentaires soit 2 mailles 3 fois de suite (= 3 fois tous les 2 rangs si vous préférez) et 1 seule maille 3 fois de suite (1 maille tous les 2 rangs). N'hésitez pas à nous dire si c'est encore flou. Bon tricot!
22.04.2020 - 08:12Ana wrote:
Diagram korr. 1) rett fra retten, vrang fra vrangen 2) 2m r sammen
11.04.2020 - 19:34