DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 210-35
DROPS design: Pattern fl-054
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41 3/4”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color no 07, beige

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for edges in stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 40 and 60 cm = 16 and 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and front piece back and forth separately bottom up. Then sew parts together on the shoulders and in the sides. Work neck edge back and forth on circular needle, and work sleeve edge in the round on a short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-116-128-140-158-176 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Flora. Work rib with knit 3/purl 3 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 5 cm = 2”. Switch to needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-16-18-18-22-26 stitches evenly = 92-100-110-122-136-150 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4”, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side every 7-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2 3/4”-2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” 3-4-4-4-4-4 times in total = 98-108-118-130-144-158 stitches.
Continue to work until piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”. Then work and bind off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows:
Bind off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-6-8 times and 1 stitch 2-3-3-2-2-3 times = 84-88-94-98-104-108 stitches.
Continue to work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”. On next row from right side bind off for neck as follows: Work the first 25-27-29-31-33-34 stitches as before, bind off the next 34-34-36-36-38-40 stitches and work over the last 25-27-29-31-33-34 stitches. Then work shoulders separately, begin with left shoulder from wrong side.

LEFT SHOULDER:
= 25-27-29-31-33-34 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch starting from the wrong side of piece, and bind off 1 stitch from neck on next row from right side = 24-26-28-30-32-33 stitches. Work until piece measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4” from cast-on edge. Bind off purling from wrong side. Now work right shoulder, begin from right side.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 25-27-29-31-33-34 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch starting from the right side of piece, and bind off 1 stitch from the neck on next row from wrong side = 24-26-28-30-32-33 stitches. Work until piece measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4” from cast-on edge. Bind off knitting from right side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 104-116-128-140-158-176 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Flora. Work rib with knit 3/purl 3 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 5 cm = 2”. Switch to needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-16-18-18-22-26 stitches evenly = 92-100-110-122-136-150 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side.
Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in In garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 7 cm = 2 3/4”, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side every 7-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2 3/4”-2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” 3-4-4-4-4-4 times in total = 98-108-118-130-144-158 stitches.
Continue to work until piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm= 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4".

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now decrease for armholes as on back piece and decrease for V-neck, in some sizes the decreases for V-neck begins before all of the decreases for the armholes are done.
Insert a marker thread in the middle of piece, insert it to have the same number of stitches on each side (= 48-54-59-65-72-79 stitches on each side). Move this marker thread upwards when working.
Decrease for V-neck when piece measures 28-30-31-33-34-35 cm = 11”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”, and work as follows: Begin from right side (= right shoulder), work in stockinette stitch until 3 stitches remain before marker thread. Knit 2 together and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder without working them (= left shoulder). Work right shoulder from here.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work in stockinette stitch, continue decrease for armhole as on back piece and decrease for V-neck by knitting 2 together inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck on each row from right side. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck, and decrease for V-neck on every row from right side until 24-26-28-30-32-33 stitches remain in total. When all decreases are done, work as before until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4” from cast-on edge. Bind off knitting from right side.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Slip stitches from stitch holder back on needle. Begin from right side at the marker thread: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), and work in stockinette stitch the rest of row. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck, continue decrease for armhole as on back piece and decrease for V-neck on every row from right side until 24-26-28-30-32-33 stitches remain in total. Work as before until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4”-20 1/2”-21 1/4” from cast-on edge. Bind off knitting from right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up stitches inside 1 stitch along neck edge. Use circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Begin from right side mid front in division for V-neck and pick up 128-132-136-140-148-152 stitches (must be divisible by 4). Work neck edge back and forth, then begin by knitting 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain and knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until rib measures approx. 2½ cm = 7/8”. Loosely bind off the stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place right part of neck edge mid front over left part, so that they overlap. Sew neatly in outer edge stitch towards neck line. Repeat the same way on the inside, so that left part is fastened to right part inside the garment.
NOTE! Do not sew in bind-off edge.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Pick up stitches inside 1 stitch along armholes, use a short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Begin from right side at side seam and pick up 108 to 148 stitches (must be divisible by 4). Work sleeve edge in the round. Purl 1 round. Then work rib knit 2/purl 2 until rib measures approx. 2½ cm = 7/8”. Loosely bind off the stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.11.2020
Correction: FRONT PIECE: ... = 98-108-118-130-144-158 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Mariëtte wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over de linkerschouder aan de voorkant. Klopt het dat je niet recht begint aan de kant van de markeerdraad bij de linkerschouder. Als ik die kant als eerste brei zit ik aan de achterkant van het werk. En het minderen door 1 afhalen, 1 recht en 1 eroverheen, doe je dat aan de rechte of aan de averechte kant van het werk?

16.03.2024 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mariëtte,

Het '1 steek recht afhalen, 1 breien en de afgehaalde steek overhalen' doe je aan de kant van de hals, vlak na de kantsteek in ribbelsteek. Om daar gelijk te beginnen kun je de steken doorschuiven op de naald of overzetten, zodat de knop van de naald aan de goede kant zit.

17.03.2024 - 19:04

country flag Clara M Lind wrote:

For working on the shoulders on the front half, how does starting work on the right side = right shoulder? If I start on the right side, it would be the left shoulder...

04.03.2024 - 05:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lind, you are right, from RS you first work left shoulder and slip these stitches aside then work right shoulder to the top and work left shoulder afterwards, a correction will be done, thanks for noticing. Happy knitting!

04.03.2024 - 09:56

country flag Angela Wisman wrote:

Mooi patroon Ik wil een foto toevoegen

20.12.2023 - 07:16

country flag Maria wrote:

Miten silmukat poimitaan yhden silmukan sisäpuolelta? En saa pääntien reunusta ja kädentien reunusta varten poimittua yhtä paljon silmukoita kuin ohjeessa pienimmässä koossa, haittaako tämä, jos silmukoiden määrä on oikealla luvulla jaollinen?

19.11.2023 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, silmukat poimitaan aina reunan reunimmaisen silmukan vierestä. Silmukkaluvun ei tarvitse olla sama kuin ohjeessa annettu luku, kunhan neulotusta reunuksesta tulee sopivan kokoinen.

21.11.2023 - 18:26

country flag Synnøve Randers wrote:

Hvordan bytter jeg til garngruppe c, jeg vil gjerne strikke den modellen i brushed alpaca silk. Hvor mange masker skal jeg da ha og hvor mye garn

09.10.2023 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Synnøve. Denne oppskriften kan bare benyttes av garn fra garngruppe A, ikke garngruppe C. Men bruk vår søkemotor og søk på vester som er strikket i garngruppe C. Eller så kan du strikke vesten i 210-35, men da med en annen kvalitet enn Brushed Alpaca Silk, f.eks DROPS Kid-Silk. Bare husk å overholde strikkefastheten i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

16.10.2023 - 14:34

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, COL : relever les mailles à 1 maille du bord : les diminutions restent donc apparentes ? Merci d’avance

16.06.2023 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, tout à fait. Bon tricot!

16.06.2023 - 11:18

country flag Linn Gass Christiansen wrote:

Hej Drops, jeg kan ikke se hvilke mål, der giver de forskellige størrelser? Hilsen Linn

10.04.2023 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linn, du finder måleskitsen for de forskellige størrelser nederst i opskriften. De 6 størrelser gælder S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

13.04.2023 - 12:07

country flag Ess D N wrote:

Ik ben er al uit. Het gaat om 19 minderingen ipv 35. Sorry.

23.02.2023 - 02:51

country flag Ess D N wrote:

Maat XL voorpand Bij een hoogte van 33 cm moet je beginnen met minderen voor de V-hals. Er moeten 35 steken geminderd worden (zowel links als rechts). Dit is 70 naalden en dus ca. 22 cm hoogte. Dan zit je al op 55 cm totale hoogte, terwijl er staat dat je moet breien tot het werk 50 cm meet. Hoe zit dit? Alvast dank.

23.02.2023 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ess D N,

Van de 65 steken gaan niet alleen de steken af voor het afkanten van de V-hals, maar ook de steken die je afkant voor het armsgat. Waarschijnlijk kom je dan wel uit.

26.02.2023 - 19:39

country flag Valeria wrote:

Buonasera, Nel davanti, al momento del collo a V, è possibile che sia stata invertita la spalla destra con la sinistra? Così come è scritto, a me non risulta corretto. Grazie

13.02.2023 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valeria, al momento non risultano correzioni per questo modello. Buon lavoro!

13.02.2023 - 21:09