DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Meadowsweet

Knitted sweater with raglan in DROPS Snow. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 212-29
DROPS design: Pattern ee-691
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-102-112-120-128-134 cm = 37”-40”-44”-47 1/4”-50 3/8”-52 3/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g color no 30, pastel pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm = US 11: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm = US 10,75: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 50 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 8.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads (= 8 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, work 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch, and bind off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 50-52-54-58-60-62 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75 with Snow. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. When rib is done, knit 1 round while at the same time increasing 6-4-2-6-4-2 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP (evenly)= = 56-56-56-64-64-64 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm = US 11. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round (i.e. after rib), measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows: Insert a marker thread at the beginning of round (= in transition between left sleeve and back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches - choose diagram for you size), make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between back piece and right sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between right sleeve and front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches - choose diagram for your size), make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between front piece and left sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1. 1 stitch has been increased on each side of marker thread for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Increase like this for raglan every other round 15-17-19-20-22-23 times in total = 176-192-208-224-240-248 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when A.1 has been worked vertically, begin a new repetition vertically and continue the eyelet rows already started out towards each side. When all increases are done, the piece measures approx. 20-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from marker. Continue to work (without more increases for raglan) until piece measures 23-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 9”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12 1/4” from marker.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves. In size XS, S, L and XL divide the piece at the marker thread in every transition between front piece/back piece and sleeves. In size M and XXL work 1-2 stitch in each side of sleeves in on front piece/back piece. Work next round as follows:
Work pattern as before over the first 47-51-56-59-63-66 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 41-45-47-53-57-57 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 47-51-57-59-63-67 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 41-45-47-53-57-57 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve). In size M and XXL work last stitch on round (i.e. these stitches belong to back piece = 47-51-57-59-63-67 stitches for back piece). Cut the yarn.
Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 104-112-124-132-140-148 stitches. Begin round after the middle of the 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches that were cast on under sleeve in one side. Work in stockinette stitch over the 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches cast on in each side under sleeve. Continue with lace pattern (A.1) as before over the remaining stitches. I.e. when A.1 has been worked vertically, begin a new repetition vertically, and continue to displace eyelet rows out towards each side until 5-5-5-7-7-7 stitches remain in stockinette stitch in each side. When piece measures 18-20-20-20-20-20 cm = 7”-8”-8”-8”-8”-8”, do not begin more repetitions of A.1 vertically but work in stockinette stitch as before and continue to displace eyelet rows already started out towards each side. When piece measures 23-25-25-25-25-25 cm = 9”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”, increase 20-22-24-26-28-30 stitches evenly = 124-134-148-158-168-178 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4".

SLEEVES:
Slip the 41-45-47-53-57-57 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece back on a short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-5-7-7-7 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 46-50-52-60-64-64 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 15-16-14-13-11-10 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-4 3/8”-4”, increase 8-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 54-60-62-72-76-76 stitches. Switch to a short circular needle size 7 mm = US 10,75. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures 19-20-18-17-15-14 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-7”-6”-5 1/2” in total. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Paulina wrote:

Dzień dobry :) chciałabym trochę pozmieniać kolory i zrobić rękawy w innym kolorze, ale nie wiem ile motków wełny potrzebuję na 1 rękaw? Proszę o pomoc :)

28.09.2023 - 01:20

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Paulino, na 1 rękaw potrzebujesz 2-3 motki włóczki. Pozdrawiamy!

28.09.2023 - 08:00

country flag Mariella wrote:

Salve ho rifatto il lavoro più volte seguendo alla lettere le indicazioni, ma appena arrivo al 3° ferro dello sprone mi restano delle maglie in più. Cosa sbaglio? Grazie per la risposta M.

26.07.2023 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariella, può spiegarci meglio dove trova le maglie in più? Buon lavoro!

31.07.2023 - 19:41

country flag Nathalie Clergeau wrote:

Bonjour c'est encore moi. Je suis de nouveau bloquée. J'ai bien fait les augmentations, mis les 4 marqueurs et tricoté le rang suivant à l'endroit. Mais pour la suite je ne comprends pas comment je dois continuer. Refait on exactement comme indiqué sous le titre empiècement ou bien tricote t'on tout en jersey et à quel moment fait on le diagramme A1 et combien de fois? En dehors des augmentations de chaque côté des marqueurs doit on tricoter tout à l'endroit ? Merci

25.02.2022 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Clergeau, vous continuez à tricoter comme avant avec A.1 et augmentez pour le raglan tous les 2 tours. En même temps, quand A.1 est terminé en hauteur, commencez un nouveau motif de A.1 au-dessus du A.1 précédent (pour créer un nouveau V ajouré au-dessus du V précédent) et continuez en même temps les jours en diagonales du A.1 précédent. Tous les jetés se tricotent à l'endroit: ceux des augmentations du raglan et ceux du point ajouré. Bon tricot!

25.02.2022 - 14:14

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai bien fait les côtes et démarré l'empiècement. Toute fois après avoir fait le 1er rang et respecté le diagramme, le second rang tout à l'endroit avec augmentation d'une maille d chaque côté des marqueurs je bloque au troi rang. En effet quand j'arrive à la fin du diagramme au bout des 15 mailles je suis censée faire 1 jeté et 1 maille endroit or il me reste encore deux mailles après ? Je suis perdue. Merci pour votre aide.

20.02.2022 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, pour l'empiècement, vous devez faire les jetés des raglans tous les 2 tours seulement; après le 1er tour décrit vous avez augmenté 8 mailles au total (= 1 de chaque côté de chacun des 4 fils marqueurs), au tour suivant, tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit, au tour suivant, tricotez le tour 3 de A.1 et augmentez de chaque côté des fils marqueurs comme avant pour le raglan. Bon tricot!

21.02.2022 - 10:49

country flag Ulrike Hartmannschott wrote:

Hallo, ich würde diesen Pullover gern mit V ausschnitt stricken. könnten sie mir da weiterhelfen? Vielen Dank im voraus. Mit freundlichen Grüßen U. Hartmannschott

18.04.2021 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hartmannschott, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2021 - 08:36

country flag Kathy wrote:

How do I keep to the diagram which is consistent at 15 stitches when there are increases in each round for the raglan sleeves?

03.08.2020 - 18:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathy, raglan increases are worked on every other round, not on every round. Happy knitting!

04.08.2020 - 09:25

country flag Bebby wrote:

I would like to use this lovely pattern with the raglan design but no lace. Could you help me? Thank you, B

06.07.2020 - 23:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bebby, you might simply work following the pattern but just work the stitches in A.1 in stocking stitch instead of following the diagram. Happy knitting!

07.07.2020 - 10:07

country flag Michèle wrote:

J'aime bien le graphisme, pull de printemps pourquoi pas !!

11.01.2020 - 18:08

country flag Corinne wrote:

Ce pull fait très jeune. Le modèle est séduisant et semble facile. Il me plaît beaucoup !

30.12.2019 - 20:37