DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Seaside Watcher

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern and balloon sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 212-43
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-251
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-102-108-116-126-138 cm = 37”-40”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 24, pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3).
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 11) = 9.09.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 8th and 9th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are worked from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over on the inside of the 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row the yarn overs are purled twisted.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off and the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:.
The front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle. Stiches are bind off for the armholes and neck and each shoulder is finished separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. The neck is worked after the garment has been sewn together.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-94-100-106-115-124 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 5 cm = 2”, knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 11-11-11-11-12-11 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 77-83-89-95-103-113 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side of the piece.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” from the cast-on edge, bind off 4-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 69-75-81-85-91-101 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm = 16 1/8”-17”-17 3/4”-17 3/4”-19 1/4”-20”, place the middle 37-37-39-39-41-41 stitches on a thread for the neck, on the next row from the right side, and each shoulder is finished separately = 16-19-21-23-25-30 stitches on each shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Bind off on every row from the neck (i.e. at the beginning of each row from the wrong side) as follows:
Bind off 1 stitch 2 times = 14-17-19-21-23-28 stitches.
Bind off with knit from the right side when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" from the cast-on edge.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as for the right shoulder but when binding off for the neck, bind off at the beginning of each row from the right side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 87-93-99-105-114-123 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 5 cm = 2”, knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 10-10-10-10-11-10 stitches evenly spaced = 77-83-89-95-103-113 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Then continue with pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-3-6-9-9-14 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 11 stitches), A.2 (= 10 stitches), A.3 (= 33-33-33-33-41-41 stitches), A.2 over 10 stitches, A.1 over 11 stitches, 0-3-6-9-9-14 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” from the cast-on edge, decrease 4-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 69-75-81-85-91-101 stitches.
Continue with the pattern as before with the outermost stitch on each side worked in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 38-39-41-42-43-44 cm = 15”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”, (finish neatly in relation to the pattern), place the middle 33-33-33-33-41-41 stitches on a thread for the neck on the next row from the right side and each shoulder is finished separately = 18-21-24-26-25-30 stitches on each shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue with stockinette stitch, A.1 and A.2 as before and the outermost stitch on each side worked in garter stitch. Bind off on each row from the neck (i.e. the beginning of each row from the right side) as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-0-0 time, then 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-2-2 times = 14-17-19-21-23-28 stitches. In sizes XS-S-M-L stop working pattern A.2; continue with purl over purl and stockinette stitch over the other stitches. In sizes XL-XXL continue the pattern as before. The outermost stitch on each side is worked in garter stitch.
Bind off with knit from the right side when the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" from the cast-on edge.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as for the right shoulder but when binding off stitches for the neck, bind off at the beginning of each row from the wrong side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 35-35-38-38-41-41 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 5 cm = 2”, knit 1 row from the right side and increase as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 4-3-4-4-6-5, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5-4-5-5-7-6 stitches left, knit 4-3-4-4-6-5 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 60-62-66-66-68-70 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9.
Continue with pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 24-25-27-27-28-29 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 10 stitches, 24-25-27-27-28-29 stitches in stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat A.2 in height.
When the sleeve measures 10 cm = 4”, increase 0-0-0-1-1-1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8 cm = 3 1/8” a total of 0-0-0-2-2-3 times = 60-62-66-70-72-76 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 47-47-47-46-44-42 cm = 18 1/2”-18 1/2”-18 1/2”-18”-17 1/4”-16 1/2” from the cast-on edge, insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch at the beginning of the row – it marks the bottom of the armhole. Work until the sleeve measures 50-50-50-49-48-46 cm = 19 3/4”-19 3/4”-19 3/4”-19 1/4”-19”-18”.
Bind off – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the sleeve seams but leave a split of 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” at the top (i.e. from the marker).
Sew the split to the bottom of the armhole and then sew the sleeves into the body.
Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start on the one shoulder and knit up 75 to 96 stitches around the neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 3) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Air.
Make sure the neck is neither tight nor loose in relation to the neck-line.
Work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
symbols = work 3 stitches in the same stitch as follows: knit the stitch but do not slip it from the needle, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 in the same stitch
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Seaside Watcher

Renate Heinz, Germany

Seaside watcher

Malin, Norway

Seaside Watcher

Vanina Vadi, France

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Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Alain CHAGOT wrote:

Modèle Drop 212-43. Je suis surprise par la dimension des manches. Plus la taille est grande, plus les manches sont courtes. Est-ce normal ? Merci pour votre réponse.

28.12.2023 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, oui c'est normal. C'est parce que les epaules sont plus larges dans les tailles plus grandes. Vous pouvez bien sur ajuster la longueur des manches a vos besoins. Bon tricot!

28.12.2023 - 13:40

country flag Malgorzata wrote:

Co to znaczy 39 oczek srodkowych na nitke na dekold w nastepnym rzedzie na prawej stronie robotki i konczyc kazde ramie osobno

17.09.2023 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj, na podanej wysokości przerobić oczka prawego ramienia na prawej stronie robótki. Zdjąć na nitkę 39 o. środkowych na dekolt. Przerabiać najpierw oczka prawego ramienia, czyli w kolejnym rzędzie (na lewej stronie) zamknąć 1 o. na początku rzędu. Przerobić do końca rzędu, przerobić rząd na prawej stronie i w kolejnym rzędzie (na lewej stronie) zamknąć 1 o. na początku rzędu. Przerabiać dalej (bez zamykanie o.) i zakończyć ramię, gdy długość tyłu od rzędu nabierania o. wynosi X cm (patrz cyfrę dla swojego rozmiaru). Teraz przerabiać lewe ramię (dołączyć nową nitkę i zacząć na prawej stronie robótki, czyli od strony dekoltu). Pozdrawiamy!

18.09.2023 - 08:30

country flag Benamer wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse Cordialement

13.02.2023 - 13:36

country flag Benamer Noura wrote:

Bonjour modele 21243 que veut dire A.2 au-dessus des 10 mailles suivantes, A.1 au-dessus des 11 mailles suivantes

11.02.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Benamer, comme pour A.2 (cf réponse ci-dessous), cela signifie pour A.1 que vous devrez tricoter les 11 mailles suivantes comme indiqué dans le diagramme A.1. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 09:09

country flag Benamer wrote:

Bonjour que veut dire tricoter A.2 au-dessus des 10 mailles suivantes,

11.02.2023 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Benamer, cela signifie que vous devez tricoter les 10mailles suivantes en suivant le diagramme A.2. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 09:08

country flag Christa Lee wrote:

Hi, about the neckline, the instruction says that it needs to be picked up 75 to 96 stitches. But the stitches, front and back, that are on the holders have already made up 70 stitches. How can I just pick up 5 to 26 stitches for the two shoulders, front and back ? Can I pick up more stitches than 96 ? I have counted mine and expected to pick up about 50 stitches without counting those on the holders. So it would be around 120 stitches in total for the neckline. Is it ok ?

03.01.2023 - 00:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Christa, The stitches around the neck are mainly made up of the front and back pieces, with the 70 stitches on the threads. The remaining stitches are picked up by the shoulder seams, where you don't need many stitches, just enough to avoid holes and make a neat neckline. Happy New Year!

03.01.2023 - 06:50

country flag Diana wrote:

Hallo, vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung! Das Muster ist ganz zauberhaft. Werden die Ärmel nicht in Runden gestrickt? Also, in Hin-und Rückreihen und danach zusammengenäht? Vielen Dank

01.11.2022 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Diana, richtig, die Ärmel werden in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt dann zusammengenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.11.2022 - 15:49

country flag Rita wrote:

Going back to the shoulder Cast off! of the Seaside watcher jumper so, if i am casting off from the wrong side 2 stitches each time , whatever i am left with after the overall length i Just cast off the remaining stitches. Thanks Rita

29.10.2022 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rita, when you have cast off the 37 middle stitches you finish each shoulder separately casting off 1 st at the beginning of next 2 rows from neck (= at the beg. of row from the right side for the left shoulder). Thee are now 17 sts left, cast off these sts when piece measures 50 cm. Work the 2nd shoulder the same way, casting off for the right shoulder 1 stitch at the beginning of next 2 rows from the wrong side. Happy knitting!

31.10.2022 - 08:40

country flag Rita wrote:

Hi there Can u clarify the Right Shoulder From the CAST OFF. I'm knitting the back of the jumper Seaside Watcher. Iv casted off the 1 stitch 2 times, leaving 17sts. Prior to that the sentence reads I have 2 cast off on Every Row at the neck side. I do no what this means Exactly. Tks Rjta

26.10.2022 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rita, after you have casting off the middle 37 sts (size M) for neck on back piece, you continue each shoulder separately, then cast off at the beginning of every row from neck 1 stitch 2 times (this means you cast off at the beg of every row from WS for the right shoulder (and then later from RS for the left shoulder), and continue working until piece measures 50 cm then cast off and work 2nd shoulder the same way. Happy knitting!

27.10.2022 - 09:43

country flag Raquel wrote:

Hola!como puedo recoger solo 96 puntos en escote si solo en descanso hay 72? Queda un hueco muy grande de escote por los 12cm de hombros(tallaL). O son 96 delante y 96 detras?

09.04.2022 - 18:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Raquel, la cantidad de puntos a recoger es aproximada (por eso dice entre 75 y 96 puntos). Dependiendo de la tensión del tejido puedes haber trabajado más o menos vueltas en el escote. Lo importante es que recojas puntos repartidos, que la cenefa del escote no quede tensa y que el número de puntos recogidos en total sea divisible entre 3 (debido al patrón del elástico).

09.04.2022 - 18:47