DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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White Rose

Knitted sweater in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with cables in raglan. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 206-30
DROPS design: Pattern no-029
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33”-36 1/4”-39 3/8”-43 3/8”-48”-52 3/4”
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch and cables/lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 116 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 9.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 9th and 10th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch in each side of pattern borders along each raglan line, i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1B and A.2B (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker thread).
On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 116-120-124-128-136-140 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Nord. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
Knit 1 round while increasing 12 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 128-132-136-140-148-152 stitches. Knit 1 round without increase. Insert 1 marker on round. THEN MEASURE PIECE FROM MARKER. Work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work next round as follows (from left raglan line at the back when garment is worn):
Work A.1A (= 20 stitches), work 22-24-26-28-32-34 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), work A.2A (= 20 stitches), work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= mid on top of sleeve), work A.1A (= 20 stitches), work 22-24-26-28-32-34 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), work A.2A (= 20 stitches), and finish with 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= mid on top of sleeve). There are now 152-156-160-164-172-176 stitches on needle. Work next round as shown in diagrams - REMEMBER KNITTING GAUGE!
Then work pattern as explained below - AT THE SAME TIME begin increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above.
Work first round as follows:
Work A.1B (= 26 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 22-24-26-28-32-34 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2B (= 26 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= mid on top of sleeve), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1B (= 26 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 22-24-26-28-32-34 (= front piece), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2B (= 26 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= mid on top of sleeve), and increase 1 stitch for raglan (= 8 stitches increased on round).
Continue the pattern like this and increase every other round 17-24-27-32-33-37 times in total, and then every 4th round 5-3-3-2-3-3 times in total (work the increased stitches twisted and in stockinette stitch).
After last increase there are 328-372-400-436-460-496 stitches on needle.
Work without increase until yoke measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” from marker in the neck.
On next round decrease 24 stitches. This is done to decrease the stitches added as compensation to make the cables contract the work in the raglan lines. Distribute the decrease so that 6 stitches are decreased in A.1B and A.2B (it is best to decrease by knitting the stitches over the cable together 2 by 2) = 304-348-376-412-436-472 stitches remain on needle. Cut the yarn.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves, i.e. work next round as follows:
Slip the first 8-9-9-8-6-5 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work in stockinette stitch over the next 90-100-108-120-132-144 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 62-74-80-86-86-92 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work in stockinette stitch over the next 90-100-108-120-132-144 stitches (= front piece) and slip the remaining 54-65-71-78-80-87 stitches on to same stitch holder as first part of sleeve at the beginning of round, for sleeve.

BODY:
= 200-220-240-264-292-320 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch over the first 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches that were cast on under sleeve. Now round begins here. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round and insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches were cast on under sleeve in the other side. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 6 cm = 2 3/8” 5 times in total in each side = 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches. Work until body measures 27 cm = 10 5/8” from division. On next round increase 56-60-64-68-76-84 stitches evenly = 276-300-324-352-388-424 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 62-74-80-86-86-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-84-92-98-100-108 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-1½-2-2½-0-0 cm = 1”-1/2”-3/4”-1”-0”-0” 5-7-6-5-1-1 times in total = 62-70-80-88-98-106 stitches.
When piece measures 16 cm = 6 1/4” from division, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 1 cm = 3/8” 24-23-20-18-16-14 times in total = 110-116-120-124-130-134 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 41-39-38-36-35-33 cm = 16 1/8”-15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-13” from division (approx. 6 cm = 2 3/8” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-12-8-12-10-6 stitches evenly = 104-104-112-112-120-128 stitches.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 52-52-56-56-60-64 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 5 cm = 2”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 47-45-44-42-41-39 cm = 18 1/2”-17 3/4”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 1/4” from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.10.2019
YOKE:... increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.2B (= 26 stitches), increase 1 stitch for raglan, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= mid on top of sleeve), and increase 1 stitch for raglan (= 8 stitches increased on round)...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last two stitches worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (41)

country flag France wrote:

Raglan: une fois le premier tour complété, si les grilles A.B comptent 20 rangs,comment arriver à 328 mailles? Pour les 17 mailles (2 tours= 17 x 20)et 5 mailles(4 tours=5 x 4), j'arrive à 358 mailles. Merci de m'indiquer où est mon erreur.

08.02.2024 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour France, vous répétez les diagrammes B en hauteur tout du long, et en même temps, augmentez pour le raglan de chaque côté de chacun des A.1B/A.2B (8 augmentations par tour): 17 x 8 m + 5 x 8 m autrement dit, vous aurez 152 mailles (après le 1er tour de A.1A/A.2A) + 17x8 + 5x8 = 328 mailles. Bon tricot!

09.02.2024 - 07:44

country flag Sasha wrote:

Hello! I need help with this. I don't understand this part. 'On next round decrease 24 stitches. This is done to decrease the stitches added as compensation to make the cables contract the work in the raglan lines. Distribute the decrease so that 6 stitches are decreased in A.1B and A.2B (it is best to decrease by knitting the stitches over the cable together 2 by 2)' How do i decrease them? Is it the 8 stitches of the cable part need to be decreased? But how?

25.08.2023 - 20:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sasha, knit together the stitches from the cable 2 by 2. So, work the first 2 stitches in the cable together, the next 2 stitches also together, e.t.c. Happy knitting!

28.08.2023 - 00:17

country flag Judy wrote:

I haven't started yet but would I get myself in trouble if I were to begin mid-back, with 11 of the 22 sts for the small size , instead of with the cable panel ? Thx

24.05.2023 - 00:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judy, I guess you can, but just remember that the explanation of the rounds always start with the raglan stitches, so just remember to adapt on your own work. Happy knitting!

24.05.2023 - 08:28

country flag Marie Louise wrote:

Bonjour j avais mis mon tricot de côté, et maintenant je me remet à la tâche ma question est: est-ce que le diagramme fait partie de la manche qu on met à attente ou bien les diagrammes seulement pour le corsage dos et devant. Merci

19.05.2023 - 17:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Louise, les tours commencent par le diagramme A.2B, et, lors de la division, vous allez conserver les 8-9-9-8-6-5 premières mailles du tour (= de A.2B) pour la manche droite et montez les mailles sous la manche, le reste des mailles de A.2B appartient au dos. Bon tricot!

22.05.2023 - 08:12

country flag Marie wrote:

Is there any way I can knit this jumper bottom up plz?

04.02.2023 - 00:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marie, we don't make custom patterns. You can start reading from the end of the body and work increases instead of decreases in the yoke. Also, the sleeves are joined as you start the yoke and both body and sleeves are worked together to finish the yoke. Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 00:00

country flag Emanuela Pierantognetti wrote:

Buongiorno per favore dove si inserisce la correzione dello sprone? Grazie

11.01.2023 - 12:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Emanuela, le spiegazioni sono già corrette. Buon lavoro!

12.01.2023 - 21:17

country flag Marie Louise wrote:

Si j ai bien compris l info, se sont les 9 premières mailles après le premier diagramme de A.1b que je dois placer en attente, est-ce exact? Merci infiniment de votre aide

10.11.2022 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Louise, ce sont les 9 premières mailles du tour, donc ce sont les 9 premières mailles de A.1B au début du tour que vous allez mettre en attente (pas les 9 mailles après le 1er A.1B). Bon tricot!

10.11.2022 - 17:04

country flag Marie Louise wrote:

Tout défait pour mieux recommencer, je ne comprends pas trop de passer les 9 premières mailles sur aiguille aux pour la manche à partir du marqeur dos Merci pour l entraide

09.11.2022 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Louise, vous en êtes à la division, correct? les 9 premières mailles du début du tour appartiennent à la manche, mettez les en attente sur un fil et montez 12 mailles, tricotez les 108 mailles suivantes pour le dos, glissez les 80 m suivantes en attente pour la 2ème manche, montez 12 mailles, tricotez les 108 mailles du devant, il reste 71 mailles, glissez ces 71 mailles sur le même fil que les 9 premières m du tour = vous avez ainsi bien 80 mailles pour chaque manche. Bon tricot!

10.11.2022 - 10:50

country flag Marie Louise wrote:

Merci tellement pour votre aide,c est très apprécié. 👍😀

28.09.2022 - 02:10

country flag Marie Louise wrote:

Bonjour Je fais la taille L ,empiètement,27x et 3x ts les 4 tous je ne comprends pas pouvez vous expliquer. Merci

26.09.2022 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Louise, augmentez ainsi: (1 tour avec augmentations, 1 tour sans augmentations), tricotez ces 2 tours 26 fois au total, puis tricotez 1 tour avec augmentations (= vous avez augmenté 27 fois), puis tricotez ainsi (3 tours sans augmenter, 1 tour avec augmentations), tricotez 3 fois ces 4 tours = vous avez augmenté 3 fois supplémentaires. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 - 11:50