DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

French Chic

Knitted sweater with moss stitch and large cable. The piece is worked in DROPS Air and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS 206-31
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-212
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 108-116-124-132-148-156 cm = 42 1/2”-45 3/4”-48 3/4”-52”-58 1/8”-61 1/4”
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 24, pink
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK
150-150-175-175-200-225 g color 12, powder pink


KNITTING GAUGE:
10 stitches in width and 16 rows in height with moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
A.3 (30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches) measures approx. 20-20-20-24-24-24 cm = 8”-8”-8”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2” in width.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 9 MM = US 13.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM = US 13: Length 80 cm = 32” for moss stitch and cables.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
When binding off for the armhole on the body, it is important to bind off on an odd round in the diagram. This is so you avoid cabling from the wrong side when the piece is continued back and forth on the circular needle.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 118 stitches) and divide by number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 11.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round/row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 11th and 12th stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the stitch with the marker, slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Start just before the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit the stitch with the marker and make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.1.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Stiches are bind off for the armholes and the front and back pieces are then finished separately, back and forth with circular needle. The shoulder seams are sewn together. Then stitches are knitted up along the armholes for the sleeves. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle until the sleeve cap is finished and then continued in the round with double pointed needles, top down to finished length. Finally, the bottom of the armholes are sewn together and the neck is worked. The whole garment is worked with 1 strand Air and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands).

BODY:
Cast on 118-126-134-142-158-166 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and 1 strand Air and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 2 cm = 3/4”.
Knit 1 round where you increase 10 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 128-136-144-152-168-176 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 9 mm = US 13. The next round is worked as follows: A.1 over the first 17-19-21-21-25-27 stitches, A.3 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), work A.1 over the next 34-38-42-42-50-54 stitches, A.3 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches) and work A.2 over the remaining 17-19-21-21-25-27 stitches.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures approx. 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm = 16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”-17 3/4”-18”, bind off for the armholes; i.e. adjust so the next round is an odd round in A.3 – read KNITTING TIP and work the next round as follows:
Bind off 3-4-5-6-9-10 stitches for the armhole, continue as before over the next 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches, bind off 6-8-10-12-18-20 stitches for the armhole, continue as before over the next 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches and bind off the remaining 3-4-5-6-9-10 stitches for the armhole. Cut the strand.
The back and front pieces are now finished separately, back and forth with circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above.
When the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm = 22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”, decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced over the 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches in A.3 = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches left. On the next row bind off the middle 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Continue the pattern and bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 17-18-19-19-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm = 23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The sweater measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2" from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
= 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”, decrease 10 stitches evenly over the 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches in A.3 = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches left. On the next row place the middle 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Continue the pattern and bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 17-18-19-19-20-21 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm = 23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8”-27 1/8”. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Loosely bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edges.

SLEEVE:
Knit up stitches along the edge of the armhole on the front and back pieces starting in the corner of the armhole on the one side of the piece, where stitches were bind off for the armhole. Knit up 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch using circular needle size 9 mm = US 13 and 1 strand of each quality (i.e. you do not knit up stitches along the bottom of the armhole).
Work A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the sleeve measures 3-4-5-6-9-10 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2”-2”-2 3/8”-3 1/2”-4” from where you knitted up the stitches, insert 1 marker on the row; this will later show you where the sleeve is to be sewn to the bottom of the armhole. The sleeve is now also measured from the marker!
Change to double pointed needles size 9 mm = US 13, Insert 1 marker in the first stitch of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing/increasing mid under the sleeve.
Work A.1 in the round. When the sleeve measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” from the marker decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-2-1-1-1 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” a total of 6-6-6-8-8-8 times = 26-28-30-28-30-32 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 16-16-16-14-14-14 cm = 6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2” from the marker, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7-7-6½-4½-4-4 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 1/2”-1 3/4”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” a total of 4-4-4-6-6-6 times = 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 44-43-42-41-38-37 cm = 17 1/4”-17”-16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15”-14 1/2” from the marker (There is approx. 2 cm = 3/4” left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue working to desired length if necessary).
Change to double pointed needles/short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11 and work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 2 cm = 3/4”. Loosely bind off with knit. The sleeve measures approx. 49 cm = 19 1/4” in all sizes, measured from where the stitches were knitted up. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve to the armhole from the marker and to the corner on each side.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 40 to 46 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread in front) with short circular needle size 8 mm = US 11.
Work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 2 to 3 cm = 3/4” to 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.02.2020
New yarn amount: MATERIALS: DROPS AIR from Garnstudio 250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 24, pink And use: DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK 150-150-175-175-200-225 g color 12, powder pink

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = insert the right needle through the stitch from the previous row, knit 1 and slip these stitches from the needle
symbols = place 5 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 5 and knit 5 from the cable needle
symbols = place 5 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 5 and knit 5 from the cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi when picking up stitches for the sleeve is the bottom of the armhole where you have cast off for the armhole?

01.10.2022 - 03:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marianne, yes, the bottom of the armhole is where you have cast off for the armhole. Happy knitting!

03.10.2022 - 01:14

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi I don’t understand how you can start from the wrong side when you divide for the front and back pieces as you have cast off for the armholes on an odd row?\r\nRegards \r\nMarianne Kenny

28.09.2022 - 18:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kenny, when casting off for the armhole, you have to adjust so that the casting off row will be an odd round in A.3, then continue each piece separately starting from wrong side so that the cables will always be worked from right side. Happy knitting!

29.09.2022 - 08:27

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi I want to knit this garment in cotton as I’m allergic to wool. Can I use 2 strands of Paris? and how much yarn do I need for the XL size in just one colour?

16.08.2022 - 05:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kenny, yes you can use here 2 strands Paris instead, just make sure you get the correct tension. Use the yarn converter or read more how to calculate new yarn amount here. Your DROPS Store will assist you even per mail or telephone if you need any help. Happy knitting!

16.08.2022 - 08:39

country flag Claudine wrote:

Je souhaiterais effectuer ce modèle mais l adapter pour le groupe C Comment faire ? Voir un autre modèle ressemblant du groupe C ? Avez vous une idée où un modèle précis Merci de votre retour

17.02.2022 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claudine, il vous faudra tout recalculer en fonction de votre tension ou bien - plus simplement: consultez nos différents pulls réalisés avec une laine du groupe C - ajustez les filtres si besoin. Bon tricot!

17.02.2022 - 16:11

country flag Hilal wrote:

Hei, skal bestille garn til denne oppskriften. Står i oppskriften at man trenger nesten dobbelt så mer Drops Air garn enn Drops brushed alpakka Silk garn, men samtidig at hele arbeidet skal strikkes med 1 tråd av hver av de to garntypene (2 tråder). \r\nVil man ikke trenge lik mengde av hver garntype?

06.02.2020 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hilal. Husk å velge "question"om du trenger svar når du legger inne et spørsmål. Velger du "Comments", blir det ikke registret som et spørsmål og du vil ikke få svar. DROPS Air har en løpelengde på 150 meter på 50 gram, men DROPS Brushed Alpaca har en løpelengde på 280 meter på 50 gram, altså du trenger flere nøster Air enn Brushed. Men det kan se ut som det mangler et nøste eller to av Brushed for å få den totale samme løpelengde. Oppskriften er oversendt design avd for en sjekke. mvh DROPS design

07.02.2020 - 14:54

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Liebes DROPS-Team, ich habe French Chic gestrickt und soeben fertig gestellt. Er gefällt mir sehr gut und ist sehr kuschelig. Was ich aber nach wie vor nicht verstehe, ist, warum bei den angegebenen Garnmengen immer zwei Knäuel mehr Air angegeben sind. Air hat 10 m mehr Lauflänge als Brushed Alpaca Silk und soll immer gleichzeitig verwendet werden. Warum dieser Unterschied in der Menge? (Ich habe jetzt zwei Knäuel Air übrig.). Herzliche Grüße.

15.01.2020 - 23:47

country flag Angie wrote:

Merci beaucoup de votre réponse et aide rapide. Bonne et belle journée à vous

17.12.2019 - 10:29

country flag Angie wrote:

Bonjour est il possible de le faire en aiguille droite et si oui il me suffit bien de diviser en deux le début de l'ouvrage, n'est-ce pas ? ? Auriez-vous les explications en aiguille droite svp ? J'attends votre réponse pour le commencer.

17.12.2019 - 07:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Angie, tu dois voir la lecon DROPS Comment adapter un modèle sur aiguille circulaire pour des aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

17.12.2019 - 08:37

country flag Lena Archenholtz wrote:

Kan jag, istället för rundsticka, sticka fram-och bakstycke varför sej?

07.12.2019 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena! Det er mulig, vi har dessverre ikke mulighet akkurat nå til å skrive om mønsteret slik at genseren strikkes frem og tilbake. Lykke til!

09.12.2019 - 09:33

country flag Terry wrote:

When looking at the patterns on the garnstudio site some of patterns depict a small pink diamond on them. What does this represent?

01.12.2019 - 02:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Terry, the patterns with a diamond are the one you can see as thumbmails on the home page. Happy knitting!

02.12.2019 - 10:04