DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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North Gate

Knitted jacket in DROPS Wish. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, multi-colored pattern and high collar. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 228-13
DROPS design: Pattern wi-012
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-94-106-112-128-138 cm = 34 5/8"-37"-41 3/4"-44"-50 3/8"-54 1/4"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements:
Full length:
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 09, denim blue
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-100-100-100 g color no 05, beige

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NO 630: 6-7-7-7-7-7 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length: 80 cm = 32”
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches increases/decreases are done over (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 10.8.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 11th stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. To decrease in this example knit every 10th and 11th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for 6-7-7-7-7-7 button holes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together, make 1 yarn over – NOTE: Decrease for buttonholes will look better by purling 2 together in a section with 2 purl stitches (seen from right side). On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Bottom buttonhole should be placed approx. 4-6 cm = 1 1/2"-2 3/8" from bottom edge and top buttonhole approx. 1 cm = 3/8" from neck edge. Place the remaining 4-5-5-5-5-5 evenly between top and bottom hole.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge when binding off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Bind off stitches for band and work the rest of yoke back and forth with 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Then pick up band on front pieces.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with color denim blue in DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above - * knit 2 twisted, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Work from wrong side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2 twisted, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Continue rib like this for 10 cm = 4”.
When rib has been worked, work next row as follows from right side:
Bind off the first 5 stitches (fasten band here later), knit the next 50-54-54-58-58-62 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 1-1-5-5-13-13 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP, work rib as before over the next 4 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Switch to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Turn piece, bind off the first 5 stitches, purl until 1 stitch remains on row (purl yarn overs twisted), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 51-55-59-63-71-75 stitches on needle.
Insert 1 marker after edge stitch at beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP and then work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain (= 12-13-14-15-17-18 repetitions of 4 stitches), work first stitch in A.1 (so that pattern begins and ends the same in each side towards mid front - NOTE! Do not increase as shown in diagrams before this stitch), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this. Work edge stitches in same color as first/last stitch in pattern.

When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 147-159-171-183-207-219 stitches on round. Then work piece in stockinette stitch with color denim blue. On next row adjust number of stitches to 146-158-178-186-206-222. When piece measures 25-25-25-27-29-31 cm = 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4", divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next row as follows:
Work 22-24-27-28-32-35 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 30-32-36-38-40-42 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 42-46-52-54-62-68 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 30-32-36-38-40-42 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 22-24-27-28-32-35 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 98-106-118-126-142-154 stitches.
Continue with color denim blue, work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Work until piece measures 15-17-19-19-19-19 cm = 6"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7 1/2". Knit 1 row from right side and increase AT THE SAME TIME 10-10-10-10-14-14 stitches evenly = 108-116-128-136-156-168 stitches. Increase stitches to avoid the rib from contracting. Switch to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2 twisted, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Work as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 twisted, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Continue rib like this for 10 cm = 4”, bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over twisted knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 30-32-36-38-40-42 stitches from thread in one side on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve stitch with color denim blue = 36-38-42-46-48-50 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Begin at the marker thread, and work stockinette stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 11-10-7-6-4-4 cm = 4 3/8"-4"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total = 30-32-34-38-38-40 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 27-26-28-26-25-23 cm = 10 5/8"-10 1/4"-11"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9" from division – or desired length (approx. 10 cm = 4” remain until finished measurements). Now increase 10-8-10-8-10-8 stitches evenly = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work rib (= knit 2 twisted/purl 2) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off with knit over twisted knit and purl over purl – remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 37-36-38-36-35-33 cm = 14 1/2"-14 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

RIGHT BAND:
Pick up from right side along front piece inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch approx. 68-80 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with denim blue (number of stitches should be divisible by 4). Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2 twisted, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Work as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 twisted, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2 twisted, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch

When piece measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4", decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Continue until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", adjust so that band is the same width as the 5 stitches bind off on neck edge. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP.

LEFT BAND:
Work the same way as right band but do not decrease for buttonholes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew neck edge neatly to edge on bands with seam in towards wrong side.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.01.2023
Sleeve measures approx. 37-36-38-36-35-33 cm = 14 1/2"-14 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = denim blue
symbols = beige
symbols = off white
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Rike wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Antwort, meine Maschenprobe ist tatsächlich 13x15 Maschen. Ich stricken sehr fest. Habe dickere Nadel versucht, aber trotzdem gleiche Maschenprobe. Kann ich einfach die Jacke in m oder L stricken um sie tragen zu können. Vielen Dank, für die schnelle Antwort

27.02.2024 - 11:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rike, am besten bentuzen Sie grösseren Nadeln, um die richtige Maschenprobe bzw die richtigen Maßnahmen zu haben; sonnst sollen Sie die ganze Anleitung mit Ihrer eigenen Maschenprobe umrechnen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.02.2024 - 13:35

country flag Rike wrote:

Hallo habe jetzt voller Stolz zum ersten Mal das Muster gestrickt und festgestellt, dass die Jacke einem Kind passt. Wo liegt der Fehler? Größe war s , meine normale Größe und die Maschenprobe stimmt auch. Fallen die Muster so klein aus und welche Größe soll ich jetzt stricken? Vielen Dank

26.02.2024 - 18:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rike, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe in der Breite sowie in der Höhe? dh 11 M x 15 Reihen glatt rechts sowie beim Musterstricken = 10 x 10 cm, auch beim stricken? So sollten Sie die selben Maßnahmen wie in der Skizze haben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

27.02.2024 - 08:06

country flag Paola wrote:

Scusate ,lo schema si ripete considerando l'ultima maglia ,sommandola alle prime?,per esempio al ferro 10: devo fare 3 beige e 2 bianche 1 beige ,2 bianche ,3 beige? Invece devo fare 2 beige ,2 bianche ,1 beige 2 bianche? Non riesco a far combaciare lo schema.grazie

05.02.2024 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, deve considerare la legenda, quindi partire con 2 maglie beige. Buon lavoro!

25.02.2024 - 22:08

country flag Werner wrote:

Wie mache ich das im Rapport 1 randmasche und dann mit Rapport beginnen und 3.Reihe 1randmasche ,1blau ,Umschlag und 11 Maschen und dann wie weiter.?zum nächsten Rapport? Werden da auch noch 1masche ,1umschlag und 11maschen?

30.10.2023 - 09:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Werner, A.1 lesen Sie von unten nach oben und das Diagram wird über 4 Maschen wiederholt, bei der 1. Reihe stricken Sie z.B. (4 Maschen Jeansblau, 1 Umschlag), dann wiederholen Sie von (bis) und dann stricken Sie die 1. Masche A.1. Wenn A.1 fertig ist, sind es 12 Maschen in jedem A.1. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.10.2023 - 18:00

country flag Sommerfeld wrote:

Ich stricke in XXXL diese Jacke wieviel muss ich nach dem oberen Bündchen zunehmen und nach welcher Masche ich verstehe das nicht \r\nAbketten verstehe ich ja noch und dann wie muss ich zunehmen\r\nUnd im Rapport wie muss ich da zunehmen?

27.10.2023 - 11:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Sommerfeld, hier wird es erklärt wie man regelmäßig verteilt abnimmt, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie so eine Halsblende strickt. Für die Passe wird es im Diagram A.1 zugenommen (mit Umschläge - siehe letztes Symbol). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.10.2023 - 08:19

country flag Corrie Schild wrote:

Bij de meerderingen in de mouw 38 + 8 = 44, dit klopt uiteraard niet,. 6 steken meerderen?

10.10.2023 - 18:46

country flag Eva Almstrand wrote:

Då jag börjar med mönstret skall jag börja så som mönstret visar A1 eller skall jag justera så att det blir lika på början och slutet . Stickar storlek medium

25.09.2023 - 20:20

country flag Fay wrote:

Hallo Drops Design. I am 1,70 cm Height with 97cm chest circumference. Wich size is for me? Size M maybe?

27.09.2022 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fay, from your measurements, you would need to work size L. You can see in the chart below the pattern instructions the measurements of the jacket. Since size M has a 94 cm chest, it won't fit you, so you need to work the next size. Happy knitting!

02.10.2022 - 23:27

country flag Rebekka wrote:

Ich verstehe die Anweisungen beim Muster A1 bezüglich der Zunahme vor den letzten (zwei? ) Maschen nicht.

18.03.2022 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rebekka, so strickekn Sie A.1: 1 Randmasche, dann wiederholen Sie A.1 (12 bis 17 Mal je nach der Grösse), jetzt stricken Sie die erste Masche in A.1 (so wird das Muster symmetrisch), und 1 Randmasche krausrechts. Wenn vor der 1. Masche 1 Umschlag gestrickt wird, stricken Sie diesen Umschlag am Ende der Reihe nichts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.03.2022 - 15:45

country flag Inge wrote:

Ik wil graag dat jullie bij mijn opmerking van 12-12 over dit patroon mijn achternaam weghalen i.v.m. mijn privacy. Omdat ik geen mailadres kan vinden op jullie website, stuur ik deze opmerking. Graag deze opmerking NIET plaatsen, alleen mijn achternaam bij mijn eerdere opmerking weghalen of mijn totale eerdere opmerking van 12-12 weghalen zodat deze niet meer zichtbaar is. Ik vertrouw op jullie medewerking in deze. Vriendelijke groet, Inge

02.01.2022 - 13:35