DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.70$.

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Lila Mist Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 230-23
DROPS Design: Pattern as-167
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 94-108-108-122-134-148 cm = 37"-42 1/2"-42 1/2"-48"-52 3/4"-58 3/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-175-175-200-225-225 g color 17, light lavender

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32”.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
18 stitches of pattern = 10 cm = 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans bottom up lace round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch on both sides by making 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased on the row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 9, 18, 27, 36 and 45 cm = 3 1/2", 7", 10 5/8", 14 1/4" and 17 3/4"
M: 9, 18, 28, 37 and 47 cm = 3 1/2", 7", 11", 14 1/2" and 18 1/2"
L: 8, 18, 28, 38 and 48 cm = 3 1/8", 7", 11", 15" and 19"
XL: 7, 16, 24, 33, 41 and 50 cm = 2 3/4", 6 1/4", 9 1/2", 13", 16 1/8" and 19 3/4"
XXL: 8, 17, 25, 34, 42 and 51 cm = 3 1/8", 6 3/4", 9 3/4", 13 3/8", 16 1/2" and 20"
XXXL: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44 and 53 cm = 3 1/8", 6 3/4", 10 1/4", 13 3/4", 17 1/4" and 21"

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces and the sleeves are worked separately, bottom up and back and forth. The sections are sewn together and the neck worked back and forth to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 87-99-99-111-123-135 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work pattern back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 72-84-84-96-108-120 stitches (= 6-7-7-8-9-10 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth for the first 4 rows in A.1 to A.3.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue the pattern from the row with an arrow. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow until the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4" (measured from where the pattern arches down – this applies throughout the pattern). Now bind off 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 75-87-87-99-99-111 stitches.
Continue as follows in the different sizes – continue the pattern as before:

Sizes S, M, L and XL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 over the next stitch, A.2 over the next 60-72-72-84 stitches (= 5-6-6-7 repeats of 12 stitches), A.5 over the next 12 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Go to All sizes below.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 84-96 stitches (= 7-8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 60-62 cm = 23 5/8"-24 3/8". Go to All sizes below.

All sizes:
Bind off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch from the next row from the neck = 24-30-29-35-34-40 stitches on the shoulder. Continue the pattern as before until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", but over the stitches by the neck which do not fit into a complete repeat of A.2, work stockinette/garter stitch as shown in A.2, without yarn overs or decreases. Bind off – read BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-55-55-61-67-73 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work pattern as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, XL and XXXL:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.4 over the next stitch, A.2 over the next 36-48-60 stitches (= 3-4-5 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work the first 4 rows in the diagrams back and forth.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue from the row with an arrow. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the band – read description above. When the piece measures 34-37-39 cm = 13 3/8"-14 1/2"-15 1/4", go to All sizes below.

Sizes M, L and XXL:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 36-36-48 stitches (= 3-3-4 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work the first 4 rows in the diagrams back and forth.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue from the row with an arrow. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the band – read description above. When the piece measures 35-36-38 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/4"-15", go to All sizes below.

All sizes:
Bind off 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side, then work as before to the end of the row = 43-49-49-55-55-61 stitches.
Continue with pattern as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, M, L and XL:
Work the first 30-36-36-42 stitches as before, A.5 over the next 12 stitches – make sure you start on the correct row in the diagram so you continue the pattern, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Work the first 48-54 stitches as before, A.3 over the next 6 stitches – make sure you start on the correct row in the diagram so you continue the pattern, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

All sizes:
Continue this pattern back and forth until the piece measures 46-48-49-51-52-54 cm = 18"-19"-19 1/4"-20"-20 1/2"-21 1/4", there is approx. 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" left to finished length. Work the first 12 stitches from the right side, then place them on a thread for the neck.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
You will now work pattern and bind off at the same time. Read PATTERN and BINDING OFF before continuing.

PATTERN:
Continue the pattern – over the stitches by the neck which do not fit into a complete repeat of A.2, work stockinette/garter stitch as shown in A.2, without yarn overs or decreases.

BINDING OFF:
Bind off as follows at the beginning of each row from the neck: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3-3-4-4-5-5 times = 24-30-29-35-34-40 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-55-55-61-67-73 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work pattern as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, XL and XXXL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 24-36-48 stitches (= 2-3-4 repeats of 12 stitches), A.5 over the next 12 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth for the first 4 rows in the diagrams.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue the pattern from the row with an arrow. .
When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow until the piece measures 34-37-39 cm = 13 3/8"-14 1/2"-15 1/4". Go to all sizes below.

Sizes M, L and XXL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 7 stitches, A.2 over the next 36-36-48 stitches (= 3-3-4 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 6 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work the first 4 rows in the diagrams back and forth.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue from the row with an arrow. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow until the piece measures 35-36-38 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/4"-15". Go to All sizes below.

All sizes:
Bind off 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the right side, then work as before to the end of the row = 43-49-49-55-55-61 stitches.
Continue with pattern as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, M, L and XL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 over the next stitch – make sure you start on the correct row in the diagrams so you continue the pattern, work as before to the end of the row.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 7 stitches – make sure you start on the correct row in the diagrams so you continue the pattern, work as before to the end of the row.

All sizes:
Continue working until the piece measures 46-48-49-51-52-54 cm = 18"-19"-19 1/4"-20"-20 1/2"-21 1/4", there is approx. 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" left. Now work the first 12 stitches from the wrong side before placing them on a thread for the neck.
Read PATTERN and BINDING OFF before continuing.

PATTERN:
Continue the pattern – over the stitches by the neck which do not fit into a complete repeat of A.2, work stockinette/garter stitch as shown in A.2, without yarn overs or decreases.

BINDING OFF:
Bind off as follows at the beginning of each row from the neck: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3-3-4-4-5-5 times = 24-30-29-35-34-40 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 53-55-57-57-59-61 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Work pattern back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1-2-3-3-4-5, A.4 over the next stitch, A.2 over the next 36 stitches (= 3 repeats of 12 stitches), A.5 over the next 12 stitches, knit 1-2-3-3-4-5, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth for the first 4 rows in the diagrams.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Continue the pattern from the row with an arrow. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat from the row with the arrow until the piece measures 10-10-10-8-7-4 cm = 4"-4"-4"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-1 1/2". Now increase 1 stitch on each side of the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1"-1" a total of 10-11-11-13-14-15 times = 73-77-79-83-87-91 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 50-48-49-47-44-41 cm = 19 3/4"-19"-19 1/4"-18 1/2"-17 1/4"-16 1/8". Insert 1 marker in each side – they mark the bottom of the armhole.
Continue the pattern until the sleeve measures 53-51-52-50-51-48 cm = 21"-20"-20 1/2"-19 3/4"-20"-19". Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams, inside the bind-off edge. Sew the sleeve cap to the body, then the split at the top of the sleeve to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

NECK:
Start from the right side with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit up 78 to 90 stitches (including the stitches from the threads) inside the 1 edge stitch around the neck. Work 2 ridges back and forth. Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit/purl the yarn over (as shown in diagram), to leave a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
	= Sleeve cap is sewn to the armhole: Sew a to A and b to B
	= Repeat the pattern from this row

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

Anne wrote:

Kan ik dit ook met katoen breien en zonder rondbreinaalden?

07.04.2024 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne,

Katoen is zwaarder en heeft daardoor een ander effect, maar het zou zeker kunnen. Maak eventueel eerst even een proeflapje om te beoordelen wat je ervan vindt.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

07.04.2024 - 18:46

Liz wrote:

Can you please explain the gap at the beginning of rows 15 and odd numbers above on A2 there should be 12 stitches to pattern but there are only 11

15.03.2024 - 21:28

Dear Liz, there is a gap in the first stitch but also an extra square at the end of the row. This also happens at the end of A.1 (there is an extra square) and the beginning of A.3 (there is a gap). These are suppossed to fit similarly to a puzzle. So you would work the row as follows: work A.1 but work the last stitch of A.1 together with the first stitch in A.2. Then work A.2 and work the last stitch of the repeat together with the first stitch of the next repeat of A.2. Continue like this until reaching the last repeat of A.2. Then, work the last stitch in the repeat together with the first stitch of A.3. Then continue working A.3 as shown in the chart. Happy knitting!

17.03.2024 - 21:31

Elise wrote:

Hi! How are the increased sleeve stiches knitted? Am I supposed to just knit them in a garter stich? In that way the pattern won't continue naturally. Thanks!

12.02.2024 - 20:41

Hi Elise, The increased stitches are purled twisted (through the back loop) on the first round after each increase, then worked in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

13.02.2024 - 06:43

Connie Bach wrote:

Hvorfor svarer I ikke retur ? Træls at sidde med dyrt garn man ikke kan bruge, da opskriften er fuldstændig uforståelig. Og ja, jeg er nybegynder og mangler simpelthen lidt lettere forklaringer, også på de pinde der ikke står i mønsteret, men er underforstået for en dygtig strikker.

24.06.2023 - 21:47

Hei Connie. Under hver oppskrift står det: Du får vanligvis svar innen 5-10 arbeidsdager (du etterlyser svar etter 2 arbeidsdager!). I mellomtiden kan du lese tidligere spørsmål og svar som andre har lagt igjen på denne oppskriften eller bli med i DROPS Workshop på Facebook for å få hjelp av andre strikkere/heklere! Trenger du hjelp i løpet av en helg, er sosiale medier et flott sted å få hjelp. mvh DROPS Design

26.06.2023 - 11:33

Sonja De Keersmaecker wrote:

Goedemorgen, kan deze trui ook met gewone breinaalden worden gemaakt\r\nAlvast bedankt voor een antwoord\r\nSonja

26.02.2023 - 07:47

Geneviève Martin wrote:

Bonjour, est-ce que toutes les mailles augmentées pour la manche sont tricotées en jersey ? On se retrouve alors avec une partie qui n'est plus en point fantaisie... Ou bien faut-il reconstituer le point fantaisie au fur et à mesure des augmentations ? Merci de me'aider .

29.12.2022 - 09:21

Bonjour Mme Martin, les augmentations des manches se tricotent en jersey (cf AUGMENTATIONS). Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 11:40

Marlies Van Dijk wrote:

Zou u nog antwoord op mijn vraag kunnen geven? Blijf je die 3 steken van de mouw recht en averecht breien? Want er wordt gemeerderd, moet ik dan niet op een gegeven moment die steken in patroon gaan breien?Alvast bedankt.

23.10.2022 - 20:41

Bedankt voor uw antwoord. Maar ik heb nog een vraag. Blijf je die 3 steken van de mouw recht en averecht breien? Want er wordt gemeerderd, moet ik dan niet op een gegeven moment die steken in patroon gaan breien?Alvast bedankt.

12.10.2022 - 21:08

Dag Marlies,

Nee, je volgt het patroon zoals aangegeven en de 3 steken midden onder de mouw aan beide kanten blijf je in tricotsteek breien. De gemeerderde steken brei je ook in tricotsteek.

24.10.2022 - 20:45

Mijn vraag betreft de mouw, direct bij de eerste pennen. Er staat voor de maat die ik brei, 1 kantsteek in ribbelsteek, 3 recht, dan patroon volen, eindigen met 3 recht en 1 kantsteek in ribbelsteek. De 3 steken recht, worden die in de teruggaande naalden ook recht gebreid, of averecht? Alvast bedankt voor het antwoord. I

10.10.2022 - 19:48

Nee de 3 recht brei je op de teruggaande naald averecht. Dee kantsteek brei je wel op iedere naald recht.

12.10.2022 - 20:18

Françoise Benoit wrote:

Je suis rendu à toute tailles pour le dos du chandail 230-23 et je ne. On prend pas ce que vous voulez dire ( Tricoter Jersey/point mousse comme indiquer dans A2 mais je ne voie rien d’inscrit à ce sujet. Pouvez-vous me donner des explications pour terminer mon chandail. Merci

26.06.2022 - 00:05

Bonjour Mme Benoit, lorsque vous tricotez le point fantaisie, certaines mailles sont tricotées à l'endroit sur l'endroit et sur l'envers (= point mousse); lorsque vous terminez chaque épaule séparément, le point fantaisie ne tombe pas juste côté encolure, vous tricotez alors les mailles comme elles le doivent (à l'endroit sur l'endroit et soit à l'envers sur l'envers (= jersey) soit à l'endroit sur l'envers (point mousse) mais sans les jetés/diminutions si vous ne pouvez pas faire les 2. Bon tricot!

27.06.2022 - 08:29